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Sotiris' straight razor journal

Sorry to hear about the scent. I got the soap from a trade and the previous owner didn't even lather it up. So I understand that the scent isn't everyone's cup of tea. Did you find any differences between the 4.1 and 4.3 formulas?
 
Sorry to hear about the scent. I got the soap from a trade and the previous owner didn't even lather it up. So I understand that the scent isn't everyone's cup of tea. Did you find any differences between the 4.1 and 4.3 formulas?

No worries mate. I am grateful you gave me the chance to test it. As I've already told you, I am not a fan of rose scents, so I could see that coming.

I didn't find any difference between the two bases, but I wasn't really paying attention to the performance of the soap. More tests are due, however I would say that the performance is so good, that one should only choose based on scent preferences.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
This verifies that the shave is the ultimate test and puts a sudden end on my daily quest to pick up my wife's and daughter's hair for testing...

Empirical evidence letting a honer stop doing creepy practices! You are a rare man of science, @Sotiris_A and I am jealous you’ve decided to stop using a test that doesn’t have relevance to the closeness and comfort of your shave (the hairs on my arms when I’m sharpening are even more jealous).

I decided to not use the HHT, in order to judge the quality of the edge.

I‘m jealous of your brain, sir! And your Aust razors, but mostly jealous of your brain.
 
Empirical evidence letting a honer stop doing creepy practices! You are a rare man of science, @Sotiris_A and I am jealous you’ve decided to stop using a test that doesn’t have relevance to the closeness and comfort of your shave (the hairs on my arms when I’m sharpening are even more jealous).



I‘m jealous of your brain, sir! And your Aust razors, but mostly jealous of your brain.


Thank you for your kind words and for following my thoughts, Thom! :)

Experimentation is the only way I have in order to assess opinions on the subject and it is a process I am familiar with by trade.

I see a pattern on shaving fora. Someone asks a question on a subject and gets lot of opinions as replies, most followed by a YMMV statement. The sensible thing to do is to follow the most popular opinion. This however rarely leads to the best results and you end up searching for soaps containing Mammoth tallow or strops made of Unicorn hide for the ultimate shaving experience. Most of the times, the experienced shavers who can point to the right direction are the least vocal ones.

I find that discussions on SR shaving suffer by that, too. For me, the reason is that it was for the most part, a lost art that was rediscovered. IMHO and YMMV etc. End of rant.

I have many more things to learn, but for the main part I feel that I am moving from SR shaving to, let's say, regular shaving. I just happen to use SRs for the task. After all the remarks and notes I made on these pages, I think that KISS is the my main conclusion.

If the razor shaves well, keep going, if not, a quick retouch will be enough. A few x- or diagonal strokes on leather are needed to maintain the comfort on a per shave basis. Use a bit of pressure and speed. No need for wide strops, a plain one by Herold or Dovo will do nicely. A nice brush, a good soap to produce some slick lather. It's just shaving.

The main thing is to develop technique and muscle memory. Owning a couple of nice razors that you admire to look at, helps to keep going. I'll probably own more SRs in the future, but the Austs will always be dear to me, like my 34c and the Fat.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Experimentation is the only way I have in order to assess opinions on the subject and it is a process I am familiar with by trade.

You’ve mentioned a previous career as a researcher. Is your current profession of a similar nature?

I see a pattern on shaving fora. Someone asks a question on a subject and gets lot of opinions as replies, most followed by a YMMV statement.

I’ve only have seen one forum where YMMV and IMHO weren’t freely thrown and the posts were all approved by moderators before being posted. Other than that rare gem, it’s the same of discussions of fitness, classical singing, history, cooking knives, and probably every other subject that’s a lightning-rod to adults with hyper-fixation issues.

The sensible thing to do is to follow the most popular opinion.

Except…

This however rarely leads to the best results and you end up searching for soaps containing Mammoth tallow or strops made of Unicorn hide for the ultimate shaving experience.

It doesn’t have the same slip as mammoth tallow, but geneticists in South Korea are working to clone Siberian mastodon, so second-best could be available in the near future.

Most of the times, the experienced shavers who can point to the right direction are the least vocal ones.

I’ve read that people aren’t zealots about subjects in which they’re very knowledgeable, so maybe that’s why.

I have many more things to learn, but for the main part I feel that I am moving from SR shaving to, let's say, regular shaving. I just happen to use SRs for the task. After all the remarks and notes I made on these pages, I think that KISS is the my main conclusion.

Makes sense to me

Use a bit of pressure and speed.

I’ve read other people mentioning speed, too, but I’m religiously scared about pressure even though I know edges won’t rupture hair without it.

No need for wide strops, a plain one by Herold or Dovo will do nicely.

Thank you for this money-saving tip. I appreciate it.

The main thing is to develop technique and muscle memory.

Your two passes with one hand and the long-lasting results they give you seem to agree.
 
You’ve mentioned a previous career as a researcher. Is your current profession of a similar nature?

I'm now working on Business Intelligence and Data Analytics, so I do code and Maths are involved in the general scheme of things. In the past, I was doing Applied Maths and Theoretical Mechanics.

I’ve only have seen one forum where YMMV and IMHO weren’t freely thrown and the posts were all approved by moderators before being posted. Other than that rare gem, it’s the same of discussions of fitness, classical singing, history, cooking knives, and probably every other subject that’s a lightning-rod to adults with hyper-fixation issues.

[...][...]

I’ve read that people aren’t zealots about subjects in which they’re very knowledgeable, so maybe that’s why.

I don't mind light moderation. It's nice to see people writing freely about their experiences. I just feel that it gets tedious trying to figure out where everyone stands and what their priorities are. E.g. for someone who can discern and dislikes synthetic fragrances, the Aqua di Parma cream might be the best one in the world. At the same time, the budget conscious type will rave about the virtues of Palmolive. Both are right. This just leaves me trying to figure out with whose priorities do my own align better.

I think it is in the nature of communities of enthusiasts. You have to be enthusiastic to be an enthusiast and usually you are more so when starting out.

I’ve read other people mentioning speed, too, but I’m religiously scared about pressure even though I know edges won’t rupture hair without it.

You need to keep the edge engaged in the process, otherwise you are just stropping the spine.

It doesn’t have the same slip as mammoth tallow, but geneticists in South Korea are working to clone Siberian mastodon, so second-best could be available in the near future.

Yay!!! I just need some unicorn now. Perhaps if I try to mate a rhino with a horse... :idea:
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
I'm now working on Business Intelligence and Data Analytics, so I do code and Maths are involved in the general scheme of things.

It sounds like your job involves taking nothing for granted and I like that you apply it to this hobby, too.

I just feel that it gets tedious trying to figure out where everyone stands and what their priorities are.

Our priorities, knowledge base, and biases change over time, but I’m hoping they usually change slowly enough.

I think it is in the nature of communities of enthusiasts. You have to be enthusiastic to be an enthusiast and usually you are more so when starting out.

That’s a very good point, too.

You need to keep the edge engaged in the process, otherwise you are just stropping the spine.

I see. That perspective makes the prospect of moving over to open bladed razors a little less frightening.

Perhaps if I try to mate a rhino with a horse...

With Crisp/R genetic editing technology, it might be easier to create a breed of horn-growing horse (whether keratin like a rhinoceros or tooth like a narwhal) or make a taller, skinnier rhinoceros. Less traumatizing to all involved, too.
 
It sounds like your job involves taking nothing for granted and I like that you apply it to this hobby, too.



Our priorities, knowledge base, and biases change over time, but I’m hoping they usually change slowly enough.



That’s a very good point, too.



I see. That perspective makes the prospect of moving over to open bladed razors a little less frightening.



With Crisp/R genetic editing technology, it might be easier to create a breed of horn-growing horse (whether keratin like a rhinoceros or tooth like a narwhal) or make a taller, skinnier rhinoceros. Less traumatizing to all involved, too.

It's good that I am no geneticist.

SR is a great shaving tool, provided you have the time and money to spare. But fear is a bad advisor. When you feel ready...
 
SR shave #86 (#24 and #7):
  • Pre-shave: Cold water and soap
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish and round point
  • Brush: Semogue 620
  • Soap: SV Tundra Artica (sample)
  • ASL: LPL Oud-Santal
  • ASB: Noxzema Moisture

  • Method: 50 and 25 x-strokes on the leather, respectively. Cold water shave. Friday, 24 hours of growth. 1st pass WTG/XTG, 2nd ATG.
  • Result: Close and comfortable once the round point took over. Lots of tugging ATG with the Spanish point. Thankfully, zero irritation after the shave.

Notes:

I wanted to verify that shave #85 wasn't an outlier. It wasn't. The Spanish point was in need of a retouch, despite the fact that it could still pass the HHT very easily (min 1.5 cm throughout the edge)!

The difference with the round point was evident and once I reached the ATG pass, I had to switch razors to finish the job. Perhaps with the typically softer 48hr stubble, I could have managed to keep going. This verifies that the shave is the ultimate test and puts a sudden end on my daily quest to pick up my wife's and daughter's hair for testing... :lol:

The soap was OK. It performs well as all SV do, but it's not a scent I enjoyed (sorry Billy, but thanks for letting me try it).



SR shave #87 (#1):
  • Pre-shave: Plain cold water
  • Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
  • Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
  • Soap: Mitchell's Wool Fat
  • ASL: Floid Vigoroso
  • ASB: Noxzema Moisture

  • Method: 15 x-strokes on canvas and 60-70 x-strokes on the leather. Cold water shave. Saturday morning, 24 hours of growth. 1st pass WTG/XTG, 2nd ATG.
  • Result: Very close and super comfortable. Zero irritation.

Notes:

18 x-strokes on the Naniwa 12k, followed by 5 laps on Cromox, 15 laps on canvas and 60(?) on leather. It took more time to flatten the stone, than to refresh the razor...

I decided to not use the HHT, in order to judge the quality of the edge. No running water, lather etc., just plain water and light pressure. I stopped after 18 laps on the finishing stone to see if that would be enough. I'm glad I did. A few passes on Cromox and off to shave and check the result of my effort.

I had a great shave! I hope yours is too! :)


It took more time to flatten the stone, than to refresh the razor...
I use a 1200 Atoma plate. Very quick and efficient.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/sharpening/stones/70346-atoma-diamond-plates
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
E.g. for someone who can discern and dislikes synthetic fragrances, the Aqua di Parma cream might be the best one in the world.
Having worked in machine shops my entire life, it usually takes a pretty strong scent for me to take notice. That being said I find AdP Colonia intoxicating.
 

Thanks! The only problem is that I'll need to buy the 400, too. Now that I think of it, I don't see why that's a problem? :lol:

Having worked in machine shops my entire life, it usually takes a pretty strong scent for me to take notice. That being said I find AdP Colonia intoxicating.

I need to buy it some day.

Details ?

I ordered directly from the Ardennes-Coticule site, asking for a selected, 20-by-4-cm one that they assess as suitable for SR honing/sharpening. Based on what I read online, they know their stones. I also wanted to avoid starting obsessing about the differences of the various veins.
 
True! I sharpened some knives the other day and even the 1k was slow. The 400 would also be useful for lapping the 1k and the 3k.
I found the 400 too coarse for lapping 1 & 3k. Which I used before I got the 1200. Since they are kept flat with the Atoma 1200. Just a few quick laps under running water, touch up before and after use. The 1200 removes considerably less, also finer scratches. I also use the 1200 for making a nice slurry when required.
 
Mail call! My new strop has arrived from Germany. It's a Herold Russian Leather (Wild Juchten). :jump:


P3230461(1).JPG
 
Four more shaves so far this week. I used the Spanish point on Monday and the round point for the last 3 ones (daily shaves), as I wanted to check the effect of the strop.

The latter is a major upgrade from my starter one, something that would have been expected, as it cost me 65€ whereas the first one, 27€ or so. The leather is dense, thick and it feels robust. There is some draw and it has a "dry" feeling. However, it is quite fast. The backside is flax linen, which seems better than the synthetic canvas of my first strop. Finally, even the sewing stitches and the metal parts are better. I love it!

A negative point for some users would be the length, since the stropping length is around 30cm. I don't mind that, as it is equal to my starter strop and I am used to it. I think it gets the job done well. The round point reached shave #13 today and it feels super sharp.

In other news, I decided to further reduce my shaving gear. I packed the majority of my brushes and I will be using my Simpsons exclusively. So far my favorite is the Duke 2 (despite the fact that it sheds 2-3 hairs per shave) followed by the Chubbies. The Duke has a larger loft-to-knot-diameter ratio and it is a bit less dense; I kind of prefer that. The Classic 2 and the Duke 3 are more prickly than what I care for and will also go.

Along with them, I packed all the soaps and creams I have stocked up, except for the Fat and Tabac and will be sent away. I am still undecided about the ASL. I'll probably keep the blue variants, the Floid and the Pitralon for the occasional use. That said, I am slowly gravitating towards using the Noxzema balm for the most part, as it is almost unscented, combined with some EdT (I am testing some samples in order to find a suitable one).

Happy shaves everyone! :)
 
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