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Small DMT to use as a slurry stone

I'm looking to pick up one of those small DMT stones to use to raise a slurry on my new coticule. Does it matter which grit DMT I get?
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
From what I heard, you need the coarse DMT
 
From what I've heard, Luc is right. The DMT C is the coarse hone,325 grit. Thats what you want. Apparently on the finer hones like the 600 D and the 1200 E they cant guarantee that the diamonds wont dislodge, and thats the last thing you want embedding in your finishing hones.
Just what I've read.
Grant
 
From what I've heard, Luc is right. The DMT C is the coarse hone,325 grit. Thats what you want. Apparently on the finer hones like the 600 D and the 1200 E they cant guarantee that the diamonds wont dislodge, and thats the last thing you want embedding in your finishing hones.
Just what I've read.
Grant
+1, 325 is what you want.
 
I have no really practice in the matter but i would have thought it's better to get a small coticule stone rather than a dmt it generates slurry fast, and with the chance of diamonds getting in the slurry I would be concerned. I use a 325 to lap mine and it doesn't take much to lap it.
 
Well for the DMT diasharp stones you have the XXC XC C F and XF as well as the XXF in 8x 3 sizes and in 2 x 6 sizes just the XC C F and XF. In the Atomas, you have the comparable grits in XXC C F and XF. The Atomas are a bit more expensive, but 'stick' less to the stone being flattened. The finer the lapping plate, the finer the slurry produced, with an even finer slurry produced with a piece of stone similar or identical to the stone being used. For Japanese stones, the term tomonagura is the correct term for this (Honzon is an inaccurate but frequently used term).

There is the possibility of diamonds dislodging from all diamond plates. The most likely time for this to happen is when the plate is new, so it is worthwhile to 'break in' your plates. Flattening a stone or two will usually dislodge the worst offenders. I don't care for the XXF or 8000 grit plate, which has a tendency to leave a black residue from the embedding nickel matrix that holds the diamonds.

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Ken
 
I've tried a dmt 325 and don't care for the edges. With DMT's they are very rough to use right out of the box so I take them to my garage floor where the concrete is very smooth or run an old butter knife to create some wear on it. So if you do use it I would try the latter to save yourself from creating scratches on the stone.
 
I got a nice slurry stone from Jarrod for next to nothing. I've tried my DMT 1200 and got a very crappy slurry. The slurry immediately goes black. I'm not sure how much you paid for the 325, but I would have recommended a natural stone instead. let us know how you like it.

Cheers,
JF
 
A coticule slurry stone works much better. The diamond card will make slurry but will also roughen the surface of the coticule. The diamond card will also wear the stone more quickly where you rub the stone, meaning that you need to be more careful about not dishing the hone. Using a coticule slurry stone, however, will make the surface very smooth.
 
John, just out of curiosity... was there a reason you didn't want to use a natural slurry stone?

It was really just a cost thing. I looked at a natural slurry stone and to get one posted to Australia, it was going to cost me in the region of $40.
The little 325 DMT, was $12 with postage.
 
Yow. I see size 1 bout being $12 shipped from TSS, though (first class international shipping). Where were you looking?
 
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