Skincare Clinic
- Thread starter GentsLLC Shaving-Skincare
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- #82
TraderJoe said:Nicole, rest assured no one is getting bored hereYour posts are invaluable, and a very welcome addition to B&B.
Thanks for all of the helpful info!
Thanks,Trader Joe. I appreciate your kind words.
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- #83
Compared to pale skin, brown skin contains more melanin, or pigment in the uppers layers in cells known as melanocytes. These cells are very sensitive to an array of assaults including the sun, irritation from injury, rough treatment and medicines. These cells are more likely to react (if provoked) with discoloration, as seen in hyperpigmentation (dark spots) or hypopigmentation (light spots.) Brown skin is also slow to rebound and prone to develop discolored spots and scars from acne, psoriasis, eczema and sometimes from the treatments for these conditions. Also, the darker the skin color, the more likely the person will be predisposed to hyperpigmentation. Unlike pale skin which reacts more immediately to irritation but recovers quickly, darker skin may be slower to react but the aftereffects will linger.
People tend to assume that dark skin is thicker and oilier and therefore more sturdy and resilient. Not true. Heavily pigmented skin is far more reactive than is fair, Caucasian skin. Sometimes clients with dark skin complain of dryness but see a shine and think that they are oily when in fact the shine is actually a reflection of light. Generally, the size of the pores will dictate oily v. dry conditions. In fact, dark skin is very prone to dehydration.
The sensitivity of darker skins requires caution when it comes to products for at home use as well as for treatments at a spa. In particular, my preference is to avoid using glycolic acid or benzyl peroxide. If you are seeking treatment for hyperpigmentation, I would avoid using traditional fade creams containing hydroquinone, which has been condemned for it's cancer-causing properties, not to mention a tendency for the skin to suddenly develop extreme sensitivity to it even after years of use. There are many natural and botanical ingredients like licorice and rice bran which are "skin lighteners" although treatment requires great patience given that hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult skin conditions to address. As far as spa treatments, I would be cautious about peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing treatments as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with potential scarring can result.
The good news is that darker skin is more resistant to sun damage (although it still can burn and requires protection with sunscreen) and is slower to display wrinkles, rough texture and age spots. Still, once every month, your skin must be examined from head to toe, paying particular attention to your hands, fingers, feet, toes, nails and mouth, where melanoma type skin cancers are more likely to appear in people of color. Look for dark brown or black spots in these areas no matter how small. Pay particular attention to new spots or spots that change. The change can be an increase in size, shape or color or a raised bump that develops within the spot. A bump on the foot or toe that is sore or does not heal is another tip off for skin cancer. Be on the lookout for dark streaks or lines along one fingernail or toenail only. If you find anything unusual, any area that you think might have changed or any particularly dark or irregular spot, see your dermatologist right away.
Contrary to popular belief, darker skin is not tougher; in fact, while extra melanin does have its benefits -- sun protection and slowed signs of aging -- it makes the skin more sensitive and vulnerable to injury.
So, we want to be gentle and make sure to AVOID INFLAMMATION:
1) Cleanse skin daily to remove dirt but avoid abrasive cleansers or products (puffs, loofahs), which can irritate skin of color. Don't overdo it. Cleansing too often or too roughly will harm brown skin.
2) Use products designed for your skin type but avoid those that contain potential irritants such as fragrance, alcohol, propylene glycol, dye and lanolin.
3) Keep the temperature down and exfoliate gently without over exfoliating.
4) Do a patch test for new products.
5) Use a quality sunscreen without fragrance or PABA
**Skin color also affects what is going on internally as darker skin is less likely to absorb the sunlight necessary for the body to manufacture sufficient amounts of vitamin D and so supplementation is often necessary.
People tend to assume that dark skin is thicker and oilier and therefore more sturdy and resilient. Not true. Heavily pigmented skin is far more reactive than is fair, Caucasian skin. Sometimes clients with dark skin complain of dryness but see a shine and think that they are oily when in fact the shine is actually a reflection of light. Generally, the size of the pores will dictate oily v. dry conditions. In fact, dark skin is very prone to dehydration.
The sensitivity of darker skins requires caution when it comes to products for at home use as well as for treatments at a spa. In particular, my preference is to avoid using glycolic acid or benzyl peroxide. If you are seeking treatment for hyperpigmentation, I would avoid using traditional fade creams containing hydroquinone, which has been condemned for it's cancer-causing properties, not to mention a tendency for the skin to suddenly develop extreme sensitivity to it even after years of use. There are many natural and botanical ingredients like licorice and rice bran which are "skin lighteners" although treatment requires great patience given that hyperpigmentation is one of the most difficult skin conditions to address. As far as spa treatments, I would be cautious about peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing treatments as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation with potential scarring can result.
The good news is that darker skin is more resistant to sun damage (although it still can burn and requires protection with sunscreen) and is slower to display wrinkles, rough texture and age spots. Still, once every month, your skin must be examined from head to toe, paying particular attention to your hands, fingers, feet, toes, nails and mouth, where melanoma type skin cancers are more likely to appear in people of color. Look for dark brown or black spots in these areas no matter how small. Pay particular attention to new spots or spots that change. The change can be an increase in size, shape or color or a raised bump that develops within the spot. A bump on the foot or toe that is sore or does not heal is another tip off for skin cancer. Be on the lookout for dark streaks or lines along one fingernail or toenail only. If you find anything unusual, any area that you think might have changed or any particularly dark or irregular spot, see your dermatologist right away.
Contrary to popular belief, darker skin is not tougher; in fact, while extra melanin does have its benefits -- sun protection and slowed signs of aging -- it makes the skin more sensitive and vulnerable to injury.
So, we want to be gentle and make sure to AVOID INFLAMMATION:
1) Cleanse skin daily to remove dirt but avoid abrasive cleansers or products (puffs, loofahs), which can irritate skin of color. Don't overdo it. Cleansing too often or too roughly will harm brown skin.
2) Use products designed for your skin type but avoid those that contain potential irritants such as fragrance, alcohol, propylene glycol, dye and lanolin.
3) Keep the temperature down and exfoliate gently without over exfoliating.
4) Do a patch test for new products.
5) Use a quality sunscreen without fragrance or PABA
**Skin color also affects what is going on internally as darker skin is less likely to absorb the sunlight necessary for the body to manufacture sufficient amounts of vitamin D and so supplementation is often necessary.
Hi,
I suffer from ingrown hairs and I'm currently using a salicylic acid product with a single blade safety razor and aqueous cream. This is probably the combination that has given me the least ingrown hairs. I still sometimes get ingrown hairs after a four or five day beard grow but it's more infrequent. My skin improved once I got off the sodium tallowate based soaps a few years ago. Which is the 'best' vegetable oil based soap ? (I understand they differ in their fatty acid chain length)
I'd like to look at clay based products. I particulary have some black and white heads on my nose that I can never clear. Not to be too disgusting but I guess the black and white heads are fat that has gone rancid. This then causes irritation ?
Personally I think hormones in the water and food supply might be a contributing factor. I haven't seen any research into it, just the odd story. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2087-1715014,00.html
Kind regards,
Ashley.
I suffer from ingrown hairs and I'm currently using a salicylic acid product with a single blade safety razor and aqueous cream. This is probably the combination that has given me the least ingrown hairs. I still sometimes get ingrown hairs after a four or five day beard grow but it's more infrequent. My skin improved once I got off the sodium tallowate based soaps a few years ago. Which is the 'best' vegetable oil based soap ? (I understand they differ in their fatty acid chain length)
I'd like to look at clay based products. I particulary have some black and white heads on my nose that I can never clear. Not to be too disgusting but I guess the black and white heads are fat that has gone rancid. This then causes irritation ?
Personally I think hormones in the water and food supply might be a contributing factor. I haven't seen any research into it, just the odd story. http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,2087-1715014,00.html
Kind regards,
Ashley.
- Thread starter
- #85
Ashley,
I can't guide you on the soap but I'm sure you can find info on this forum. I prefer seaweed (antibacterial and remineralizing), a very mild surfactant and oils (to regulate oil.)
As far as white/blackheads: The basic difference is that with a blackhead the comedone is open meaning it has been exposed to the air and so the oxygen turns it black in color. The whitehead is "trapped" under a layer of skin. It comes about from oil getting trapped in the follicle usually obstructed by dead skin.
An excellent product which I offer but have yet to upload to the website is Lerosett from Sweden. It is just rasul clay and distilled water. Very effective for white/blackheads and ingrowns as well. Can also be used to spot treat pimples. It has incredible "drawing" properties.
I definitely agree with you on the problem of hormone mimicking substances in our food supply. The problems go way beyond the scope of this forum unfortunately.
Hope that helps.
I can't guide you on the soap but I'm sure you can find info on this forum. I prefer seaweed (antibacterial and remineralizing), a very mild surfactant and oils (to regulate oil.)
As far as white/blackheads: The basic difference is that with a blackhead the comedone is open meaning it has been exposed to the air and so the oxygen turns it black in color. The whitehead is "trapped" under a layer of skin. It comes about from oil getting trapped in the follicle usually obstructed by dead skin.
An excellent product which I offer but have yet to upload to the website is Lerosett from Sweden. It is just rasul clay and distilled water. Very effective for white/blackheads and ingrowns as well. Can also be used to spot treat pimples. It has incredible "drawing" properties.
I definitely agree with you on the problem of hormone mimicking substances in our food supply. The problems go way beyond the scope of this forum unfortunately.
Hope that helps.
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- #86
Cosmeceuticals are loosely defined as products w/c combine the benefits of a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical. Many skincare cos. use this term, especially the doctor endorsed products. Since the term "cosmeceutical" is not regulated or controlled, essentially anyone can slap that label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." This is not to say that cosmeceuticals are bad. Regardless of the name, a skincare product is only as good as what it contains and how those ingredients can help your skin stay healthy and function better.
- Thread starter
- #87
Dear All,
I know that it's been a long time since my sudden absence in '06 but I unfortunately had breast cancer and found it very difficult at the time to announce this on the forum (or anywhere else for that matter.)
I'm fortunate to have my health back and wanted to pick up where I left off as I love to write and educate.
Please accept my apologies for leaving you all so suddenly - it was a very difficult time for me.
I hope that you'll have me back.
Warm regards,
Nicole
Gents LLC
I know that it's been a long time since my sudden absence in '06 but I unfortunately had breast cancer and found it very difficult at the time to announce this on the forum (or anywhere else for that matter.)
I'm fortunate to have my health back and wanted to pick up where I left off as I love to write and educate.
Please accept my apologies for leaving you all so suddenly - it was a very difficult time for me.
I hope that you'll have me back.
Warm regards,
Nicole
Gents LLC
Welcome back, I've only recently joined myself.
I was just reading through some of the old posts, particularily the ance ones.
I've just turned 26 and still have light ance. For me Ive tried all the advice under the sun and nothing is a sure fix. Benzyl Peroxide definately works but as you say dries the skin, so I use it sparingly.
For tone, I actually disolve 2 table spoons of sea salt in about 2 cups of water (so it makes a slightly stronger solution than actual sea water) and splash and rub with my hands that into my face; works extremely well with no side effects.
But most of all, (and no one really emphasises this enough) DIET!! For me it is 80% what I eat, when I eat perfectly my skin clears up completely. Simple as that!! Eating perfectly also makes me sleep perfect and just feel 2x as good most of the time...
I have a sort of methology in that your face is supposed to portray your true state of health. So if your face looks crap then sort out you diet/stress/sleep etc.
I was just reading through some of the old posts, particularily the ance ones.
I've just turned 26 and still have light ance. For me Ive tried all the advice under the sun and nothing is a sure fix. Benzyl Peroxide definately works but as you say dries the skin, so I use it sparingly.
For tone, I actually disolve 2 table spoons of sea salt in about 2 cups of water (so it makes a slightly stronger solution than actual sea water) and splash and rub with my hands that into my face; works extremely well with no side effects.
But most of all, (and no one really emphasises this enough) DIET!! For me it is 80% what I eat, when I eat perfectly my skin clears up completely. Simple as that!! Eating perfectly also makes me sleep perfect and just feel 2x as good most of the time...
I have a sort of methology in that your face is supposed to portray your true state of health. So if your face looks crap then sort out you diet/stress/sleep etc.
- Thread starter
- #89
Thanks for the welcome back. You are spot on about diet. Your skin will reflect what you put in and sleep issues, etc. Thanks for reading my thread- will be posting more.
Nicole,
Welcome back!
I am so sorry to hear about your health problems. Hopefully all is resolved and we'll have many years of informative posts to look forward to!
Welcome back!
I am so sorry to hear about your health problems. Hopefully all is resolved and we'll have many years of informative posts to look forward to!
- Thread starter
- #91
Thanks for your kind words.
- Thread starter
- #92
Try to avoid moisturizers containing mineral oil, which is petroleum-based. They tend to be greasy and clog your pores. Products containing alcohol will usually dry your skin instead of moisturizing it.
In addition, try to avoid moisturizers with artificial fragrance as well as those that contain too many preservatives because they are more likely to cause allergic reactions. Some examples of preservatives include various parabens and sodium benzoate.
In addition, try to avoid moisturizers with artificial fragrance as well as those that contain too many preservatives because they are more likely to cause allergic reactions. Some examples of preservatives include various parabens and sodium benzoate.
- Thread starter
- #93
A man's skin is approximately 15% thicker than a woman's, is firmer, with an increased tendency to sweat- showing signs of aging less rapidly. However, once the aging process begins, usually around the age of 40, collagen and elastin production decreases dramatically causing the skin to show rapid and visible signs of aging with the emergence of "lines of expression" 
Effective skin care can slow and reduce aging, restoring firmness and elasticity to the skin.
Active sebaceous glands cause men's skin to be oilier with larger pores and a richer blood supply. Regular deep cleansing, light exfoliation and moisturizing are a necessity to maintain a healthy complexion. Mens skin is also more prone to be dehydrated due to daily or frequent shaving. Regardless of your skin type, it is important to maintain a regular skin care regimen to keep pores clear and skin healthy looking.
Effective skin care can slow and reduce aging, restoring firmness and elasticity to the skin.Active sebaceous glands cause men's skin to be oilier with larger pores and a richer blood supply. Regular deep cleansing, light exfoliation and moisturizing are a necessity to maintain a healthy complexion. Mens skin is also more prone to be dehydrated due to daily or frequent shaving. Regardless of your skin type, it is important to maintain a regular skin care regimen to keep pores clear and skin healthy looking.
- Thread starter
- #94
Men with oily skin and those who are prone to acne tend to avoid moisturizer or oils applied to the skin. The use of correct oils for these skin types can be very helpful. Essential oils like lavender and tea tree are naturally antiseptic, active and help heal the skin. These oils mimic our own oils in the skin and will send signals to the skin to to help even out any over production. Moisturize according to the needs of the skin. Mature skin will of course need more hydration especially by the mouth and eyes which are areas prone to wrinkling.
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__________________
Nicole, Welcome back!
We all hope that you will continue to enjoy good health first and foremost. Thank you for all of your contributions, and you should be pleased to know that even in your absence we continued to benefit from the thread that you started three years ago.
All our best wishes for your total recovery.
We all hope that you will continue to enjoy good health first and foremost. Thank you for all of your contributions, and you should be pleased to know that even in your absence we continued to benefit from the thread that you started three years ago.
All our best wishes for your total recovery.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #97
1) Exfoliating in connection with shaving- shaving removes up to two superficial layers of skin and so you exfoliate by shaving. So don't exfoliate right before shaving or right after when your skin is sensitive.
2) Picking pimples- pinching, picking or squeezing is one of the worst things that you can do to your skin since you can cause permanent scars.
3) Skipping moisturizer- everyone needs to moisturize. The skin loses moisture and gets drier as we age. Moisturizers help retain moisture in the top layers of the skin and helps protect the skin from environmental agressions.
4) Not reapplying sunscreen- 90% of premature aging is caused by overexposure to the sun. Most sunscreens do not retain the effect beyond 2 hours. It's essential that you apply frequently and at least 30 minutes before sun exposure.
2) Picking pimples- pinching, picking or squeezing is one of the worst things that you can do to your skin since you can cause permanent scars.
3) Skipping moisturizer- everyone needs to moisturize. The skin loses moisture and gets drier as we age. Moisturizers help retain moisture in the top layers of the skin and helps protect the skin from environmental agressions.
4) Not reapplying sunscreen- 90% of premature aging is caused by overexposure to the sun. Most sunscreens do not retain the effect beyond 2 hours. It's essential that you apply frequently and at least 30 minutes before sun exposure.
I always read your posts, Nicole. Its very hard to find good info on skin care. Most is loaded with marketing BS, so I never know what to believe.
- Thread starter
- #99
1) Healthy skin has even color or skin tone. Uneven color includes blotchiness, spots that are dark, light or red. Also, dark circles under the eyes.
2) Healthy skin looks and feels smooth. Unhealthy skin does not have a uniform texture. Examples of texture problems include bumps, acne, blackheads/whiteheads, wrinkles, scars.
3) Healthy skin is well hydrated. Skin cells slough off but this is not noticeable. Unhealthy skin flakes or is scaly.
4) Healthy skin has normal sensations. Unhealthy skin sensations include itching, burning, pulling and stinging.
Thanks, Tom! Glad to help.
2) Healthy skin looks and feels smooth. Unhealthy skin does not have a uniform texture. Examples of texture problems include bumps, acne, blackheads/whiteheads, wrinkles, scars.
3) Healthy skin is well hydrated. Skin cells slough off but this is not noticeable. Unhealthy skin flakes or is scaly.
4) Healthy skin has normal sensations. Unhealthy skin sensations include itching, burning, pulling and stinging.
Thanks, Tom! Glad to help.
I enjoyed reading all of your posts, they were very informative.
I wanted to know your opinion on the oil cleansing method, posted from another thread here:
http://www.theoilcleansingmethod.com/
I wanted to try it, as I have oily skin which always breaks out, and is generally not in great condition. And I always do the pm ritual of gentle cleansing/cotton ball astringent/maybe a moisturizer. After shaving, warm/cold rinse, witch hazel, AS moisturizer. (I need a better moisturizer though).
I figured that could replace/be added to the pm ritual, and I'd try it for a bit and see how it works.
I wanted to know your opinion on the oil cleansing method, posted from another thread here:
http://www.theoilcleansingmethod.com/
I wanted to try it, as I have oily skin which always breaks out, and is generally not in great condition. And I always do the pm ritual of gentle cleansing/cotton ball astringent/maybe a moisturizer. After shaving, warm/cold rinse, witch hazel, AS moisturizer. (I need a better moisturizer though).
I figured that could replace/be added to the pm ritual, and I'd try it for a bit and see how it works.
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