Seeking Recommendations for the Perfect DE Razor for Coarse Hair & Sensitive Skin

[Iridian]

From my research, I've narrowed down a potential list:
1. Rockwell 6S: I speculate I might gravitate towards blade 3 or 4.
2. Game Changer: Torn between .68 or .84.
3. Karve Overlord.
4. Yaqi: Considering the dual comb models like Vostok 70dc or 90dc. The idea of having both an open and closed comb together intrigues me.
5. DS Cosmetics x1 dual comb
6. DS Cosmetics S8 or S9 scalloped.

I would always prefer a Game Changer or Lupo or one of their clones over the Rockwell with any plate. They are also not dull grey or pained, but machined in a nice shiny way.
The Karve Overlander got much praise, but no idea, don't have one.
The Yaqi and DSCosmetic models listed are mostly GC and Lupo clones. The X1 is by far too mild, not very efficient.

IMO: Game Changer .84 or DSCosmetic S9 with a handle of your choice or try the Yaqi Vostok 90DC. I really like the 1.05 DC, but there shouldn't be a need to dial up to the max. I am still waiting for the Game Changer DC. For coarse beard an OC might be better, thinking about it. So maybe give the dual comb models a try.

 

[Noclue]

a recent discussion about prep. If you do indeed have tough hair, a good prep should make a significant difference to your comfort.

Thank you. I went through that and it is helpful.

First all, everyone thinks that they have coarse hair and sensitive skin. Often, this boils down to needing to hone your technique. Also, almost any of the razors that have been mentioned will give a great shave. If it were me, I would recommend 1 of 3 razors.

• Gillette Tech (I know that you don't want one because it's vintage, but can be had for $15 on ebay and last forever.)
• Henson AL13+ (The most user friendly razor that I have tried.)
• Baili BD176 (You can pick it up for $10 off of Amazon.)

Of course, you can also go with the Razorock Gamechanger and the Rockwell 6C. They're both fine razors, but until your technique improves none of these are going to cut it for you.

BTW, I don't like the Feather Popular. It's too light and it will cause you to use too much pressure and thus bad technique. I also don't find the blade bend to be sufficient.

I've looked at Tech razors, and the vintage ones carry a hefty price tag. Shipping alone to Asia from sellers on Etsy and eBay is around $30-$40, which isn't feasible for me.

I had Henson high on my radar, but I've realized that cartridge razors have their merits too. My dive into DE razors is more about immersing myself in the shaving ritual rather than a default choice like Henson.

Regarding the Feather Popular, it's bulkier than my Gillette Fusion. But, its weightiness makes me more prone to applying extra pressure when I shouldn't.

Taking into account the insights from this thread, my action plan is:

1. Technique: This will be my primary focus.
2. Variables: I intend to keep it simple. Once I transition to a new razor, I'll cease using Feather Popular and concentrate on honing my technique and experimenting with blades.
3. New Razor: I'm leaning towards a GC or a similar model priced around $75. Currently, the DS Cosmetics S9 Titanium with the THT handle is catching my eye, though I'm not too keen on its blade placement method.

You might want to consider the timeless .95 scalloped razor. They have a 30 day money back guarantee. It is gentle yet fairly efficient but a bit expensive.

Shipping to Asia is a bit of a hurdle for me, so returning items isn't a practical option. If it were more budget-friendly, I'd undoubtedly go for the Timeless. It's truly a masterpiece.

Well, I would suggest the Overlander, an excellent razor and the R41 which is also efficient without the overly aggressiveness of the original models. Do not be put off by the OC label...because the R41 is not (in my estimation) a true OC but rather a kind of hybrid form. Anyway I stayed away from it because of my early experiences, but because of good reviews about the newest versions I bought one and it's been a great razor.

While the Overlander does seem like a top-notch pick based on feedback, I've concluded, after going through all the comments, to remain within a budget of <$75 as I start my journey with DE shaving. I want to establish proper habits first before considering a bigger investment. On a side note, open combs do give me some reservations. They remind me of the potential risks with straight razors, especially after reading numerous posts about scrapes and nicks.

With the R41 - how comfortable would you be if it were amongst your first razors now?

It's a common claim, but to be fair, many people try DE shaving because they get too much irritation from cartridge razors. Unfortunately, many people also have years of ingrained bad habits from using cartridge razors also. I know I did. It's the biggest thing that people new to DE need to overcome.

An nth number of suggestions for a new razor won't fix it.

IMHO OP should be focusing on things like practice lathers and getting the blade angle right and not swapping equipment or jacking around with adjustable razors and swappable plates. That's just going to introduce more variables and cause more potential problems.

I previously handed off my Yintal Adjustable to someone else before the pandemic (so a few years ago). Now, I'm left with the Feather Popular. However, I'm not really inclined to invest time with it and am looking to select a decent new razor and settle with it for the foreseeable future. So only thing post this razor will be technique and blades.

I would argue that this would be a better way to learn, all we're doing is sending OP mixed signals and recommendations that may not work for him. It's much better to work on something alone, in my opinion, and move onto new/different stuff once you're comfortable with the current state of things. Reading these forums is a sure-fire way to get overwhelmed or lose focus on the primary goal, which is simply hair removal.

Reflecting on all the feedback has indeed helped me refine my initial thoughts. From the discussions, I'd now categorize my hair as having "average thickness," though my skin's sensitivity remains unchanged due to the breakouts I experience.

My plan is crystal clear now: Acquire a quality razor, hone my technique, and keep the variables primarily to experimenting with blades.

Same goes for razors. If the KCG razor becomes too mild as you develop your technique, get a Gillette Tech or a Superspeed from Ebay. There is no need to buy 100 dollar razors. I've had a Yaqi razor and the Rockwell 6c, I would not recommend them. The build quality of Yaqis is questionable and the Rockwell I got had messed up blade alignment, it's all Chinese made mumbo jumbo.

I've settled on staying within the <$75 range to begin my journey with DE. I've ruled out the Rockwell, so I'm leaning towards a solid GC or a similar clone to kickstart this experience.

I would always prefer a Game Changer or Lupo or one of their clones over the Rockwell with any plate. They are also not dull grey or pained, but machined in a nice shiny way.
The Karve Overlander got much praise, but no idea, don't have one.
The Yaqi and DSCosmetic models listed are mostly GC and Lupo clones. The X1 is by far too mild, not very efficient.

IMO: Game Changer .84 or DSCosmetic S9 with a handle of your choice or try the Yaqi Vostok 90DC. I really like the 1.05 DC, but there shouldn't be a need to dial up to the max. I am still waiting for the Game Changer DC. For coarse beard an OC might be better, thinking about it. So maybe give the dual comb models a try.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm gravitating towards the GC/DS cosmetics too. I've made up my mind to order the S9-T with the THT Handle!

 

[mikhou]

I've looked at Tech razors, and the vintage ones carry a hefty price tag. Shipping alone to Asia from sellers on Etsy and eBay is around $30-$40, which isn't feasible for me.

I had Henson high on my radar, but I've realized that cartridge razors have their merits too. My dive into DE razors is more about immersing myself in the shaving ritual rather than a default choice like Henson.

I'm not sure that I follow what you are saying about the Henson. It's not a cartridge razor by any means. You can still cut yourself with it, and I very much enjoy "the shaving ritual" with it. If it's not something that you want to use, that's fine. But don't write it off as in the same category as a cartridge razor. It's a tremendous shaver. I'm just saying that with your $75 budget, it's a top-notch choice (as are the Gamechangers and others that you have mentioned).

 

[Noclue]

I'm not sure that I follow what you are saying about the Henson. It's not a cartridge razor by any means. You can still cut yourself with it, and I very much enjoy "the shaving ritual" with it. If it's not something that you want to use, that's fine. But don't write it off as in the same category as a cartridge razor. It's a tremendous shaver. I'm just saying that with your $75 budget, it's a top-notch choice (as are the Gamechangers and others that you have mentioned).

Nah mate, I heard good things about majorly, but then there were those strong few on the other side of the fence. Beyond that, I don’t want the aluminium light version and the Ti is a bit steep for a first bite.

 

[Phoenixkh]

@Noclue , I wish you well on your journey. You'll enjoy the scenery along the way, I'm sure. I don't have any recommendations in your price range. At a few dollars more, though I don't know about shipping to Asia, would be the Green Cult 2.0 with the Level 2 base plate. It sells for around $100. I used mine a lot, in fact, for 7 weeks during a trip to Indonesia, with a stop off in Slovenia to visit our oldest son and his wife.

I have old man, coarse whiskers and have skin issues from psoriasis and the Green Cult 2.0 worked very well for me. I no longer have it as I had another razor that made it a bit redundant so I passed it along to another B&B member.

 

[gpjoe]

We've seen many new shavers jump from razor to razor looking for the perfect, irritation-free shave.

Some things to consider:

Try a "fixed four". That is: one razor, one blade, one soap, one brush...and stick with it. The idea is that changing several variables at once (or too quickly) actually hinders a new shaver's ability to improve their technique.

If something obviously isn't working, change ONE of the four variables.

Remember, traditional wet shaving with a DE razor is about beard reduction.

When I shaved with a cart it was one pass with the grain every morning before work, which gave me a clean look and my face felt smooth WTG. it was enough to look presentable at work.

With a DE, a single WTG pass with a mild razor (Tech, GC 68P, Feather ASD2) will nearly always leave some stubble behind. To get a smoother face-feel, a minimum of two passes is needed (for me).

Beyond that (3rd pass and touchup) is merely chasing the shave I could never achieve with a cart or electric.

Pressure. Some pressure is necessary for the razor to cut, and the amount of pressure may vary based on the weight of the razor. A heavy stainless steel razor like a Timeless will cut whiskers more easily than a lightweight aluminum razor using the same pressure. Knowing the correct amount of pressure is part of good technique.

My advice?

Stick with a "fixed four".

Use the lightest touch that still allows the razor to remove whiskers.

Don't over shave trying to get a ultra close shave. As a new shaver this may just lead to irritation. Try doing just a 2-pass shave (WTG, XTG) and stop. The result may not be perfect but will still be better than any cartridge (well, it was for me).

Take your time, have fun, and enjoy the process. You may end up with a few razors, or many razors, but try to focus on learning to shave before jumping from razor to razor.

My advice is based on a relatively short time using a DE razor: less than two years...and I fell into many pitfalls, one being that I bought waaaaay too many razors. Many didn't work for me at the beginning. Funny, though, that after shaving for many months I returned to some of those, and they shaved fine.

The difference was my technique had improved.

Somebody with much more experience here once said (paraphrase):

"If your technique is solid, you can get a great shave with any DE razor."

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry for the long post, hopefully it helps in some way.

 

[Brutus]

Hello fellow shaving enthusiasts,

Background:
I've been striving to discover the ideal DE razor that complements my coarse hair and sensitive skin. A few years ago, I took a leap into the world of DE razors with the Yintal TTO Adjustable, paired with the Gillette 7 O’clock blades. Unfortunately, it tugged quite a lot and I found myself retreating back to my previous razors. However, I've recently been motivated to delve back into DE shaving and have armed myself with some research.

What I've Tried:
- Yintal TTO Adjustable: This was my first foray into DE razors and I tried it years ago. Sadly, it was far from a smooth experience, as it tugged noticeably and then I went back to razors.
- Feather Popular: Tried this recently with a feather blade. It provided a decent shave, but I encountered considerable razor burn and irritation.

Current Considerations:
After some reading, I believe I'm leaning towards a medium aggressive DE razor. However, with my limited experience, I'm uncertain of what truly constitutes as "mild", making it a challenge to set a benchmark. Given that I have coarse hair, I'm wary that a mild razor might necessitate multiple passes, which could further irritate my sensitive skin.

From my research, I've narrowed down a potential list:
1. Rockwell 6S: I speculate I might gravitate towards blade 3 or 4.
2. Game Changer: Torn between .68 or .84.
3. Karve Overlord.
4. Yaqi: Considering the dual comb models like Vostok 70dc or 90dc. The idea of having both an open and closed comb together intrigues me.
5. DS Cosmetics x1 dual comb
6. DS Cosmetics S8 or S9 scalloped.

Current Setup:
I've been using the Feather Popular paired with Proraso Sensitive White Cream. Additionally, I have Proraso sensitive pre-shave cream and post-shave products arriving soon.

With all that said, I'd truly appreciate your insights. Based on my experience and needs, which razor would you recommend I explore next?

Thank you in advance for your guidance and suggestions!

Whenever I hear “coarse hair and sensitive skin” (a.k.a. the Rubeus Hagrid*/Snow White syndrome) it is impossible to give meaningful advice unless we know how your pre-shave routine looks like, as more often than not this is where IMO the real problem lies.

There will be plenty advice, of course, but is it meaningful to your problem?


B.


* from the Harry Potter series

 

[huck1680]

With the R41 - how comfortable would you be if it were amongst your first razors now?

It would be fine right now. When I got the first R41 I was an experienced shaver with a lot of years under my belt and I had a lot of razors. It just wasn't a razor I could figure out. This version is so much better that I'd still be ok even if it was among the first I owned. Seriously.
Also as has been mentioned by @Phoenixkh the GreenCult 2.0 is an excellent razor as well.

 

[Eshebert]

You described my face except for the un humanly growth rate. My bead is like thick horse hair and I turn into werewolf by afternoon. I also suffer from sensitive neck skin that grows east to west.

My nemesis is mild or light razors. Henson they eat me up, so mild I have to put too much pressure to be affective. For me I need an aggressive razor with a medium sharp blade with very little pressure or a mild razor with a Feather. Here is what works for me. Take into a account, I am not a too Boujee, I can care less if a razor is Pot metal, SS, Titanium, Aluminum, Plastic, Caste iron or wooden. I am into what works for me. I rarely use DE anymore, as Straight Razor shaving has been a blessing to my face.

My tops DE razors are as follows.
1. R41 - Razors = First choice 1 - PermaSharp or Wizamet SI, 2nd- Personna Med Prep, 3rd- GSB, Nacet, Astra Green, Personna Blue.
2. Lupo .95 with the same lineup of blades as the R41
3. Pearl Flexi - Same blade lineup.
4. Yaqi Tile - This is a med-mild razor and very comfortable to use. Its a clone of the Henson but with enough weight to have some backbone. I only use PemaSharp or Wizamet SI.
5. Either of these two- Merkur 34 or 37, don't care what finish. I only use PermaSharp, Wizamet or Feather.
6. Rockwell 6S or 6C - its a very mild razor, even on 6 plate so I only use PermaSharp, Wizamet SI or Feather.

What does not work for me.
-Muhle R89 or the DE89
-Hanson AL13, regular, +, or ++
-Gillette Tech - I really wanted to like them.

There are a whole load of Razors I tried that are ok, no reason to list those.

 

[wetshaver233]

All we can do is recommend you what works for us, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it would work for you or that you will like it, so you have to roll the dice and hope for the best when getting your new razor. My recommendation would be a Blackland Blackbird with the standard plate, but they are no as inexpensive as most of the recommended razors here.

 

[Goblin]

Don't over shave trying to get a ultra close shave. As a new shaver this may just lead to irritation.

That's sage advice for all shavers, not just new shavers!

 

[OrangeSport]

Something super-efficient with a sharp blade. An R41 and a Gillette Silver Blue blade is the combination I use when already have some irritation because with a very light touch you can still get a great shave without further aggravating your skin. I assume the same could be said for sensitive skin without shave-related irritation, but I would argue that the vast majority of us have pretty sensitive skin on our face and neck.

Agreed.

R41 every time. Light touch and few passes.

 

[tim99]

This is not advice, just my experiences. I have been shaving for 58 years and have a very coarse beard. My skin was initially sensitive, but now has become thinner and more sensitive (old man’s skin). After a Wilkinson Sword "sticky", I bought one of the original mild DS1 Feather stainless razors which I used with their blades; but when I turned 70, I started getting weepers and broken skin. I tried mild and medium Hensons, and have finally settled for the mild Al Henson with Feather blades. After thorough soaking of beard and used with mild pressure, no more weepers. Normally a single pass with unscented Simpsons cream and a Simpsons Wee Scot, but occasionally I need a second pass at 90°. I also have a Henson Mild Titanium, but other than an increase in mass requiring even less pressur, I don’t see much of an advantage.

 

[RazorTom]

Still new at DE Razors myself and consider myself to have sensitive skin and a coarse beard. @JPjoe gives some wonderful advice, I have found everything he says is true. Not many will tell you that some pressure is needed. I constantly see advice to apply "no pressure". I think this is wrong and Joe hit it spot on, you apply the pressure that is needed for the razor to shave without cutting you or causing irritation - this varies based on the razor's physical attributes and your skin.

I actually think sticking with 1 razor when starting is the smart, but kind of boring. And let's face it, for many this is a hobby... part of the fun is trying different razors! I would suggest buying the 3 - 4 razors that you are most interested in and rotating them. I'm having a lot of fun shaving this way and feel my technique is still adequitly improving. My 4 are: RazoRock GC .84, Muhle 41, Muhle Rocca, and Merkur 34c. What I'm finding is that the Rocca and the CG .84 shave similarly for me, but that they are much different from the other two razors. All 4 razors vary in aggressiveness, efficiently, blade gap, blade exposure, weight, etc. By trying this different razors I'm learning a lot about what I like and how different razor characteristics influence the shaving experience for me (at least at this point in my journey). If I've been shaving a lot and my skin is feeling a bit irritated, then I use the 34c, because I know that it will likely not cause additional irritation. I'm willing to accept the less than BBS share I get with this razor on days that my skin is not feeling great. If I have 3+ days of growth, then I mow it down with my more aggressive razors. I ams still really new to this still, but can see hanging onto at least 1 aggressive and 1 mild razor. So far, the "in-betweeners" - for me the GC .84 and Rocca--may not serve much of a purpose for me, but we shall see. As my technique improves I have a feeling that I may find appreciation for all 4, in which case I will keep them all!

 

[RAD patient]

Get the Parker Variant if you wanna go cheap, go Rockwell 6S when you wanna splurge some money. Both are great shavers and allow you to experiment with blades and settings.
Tech with a sharp blade as suggested above is also a safe bet. Gillette knew what they were doing back then.

 

[PurpuraPuer]

Is it possible that you are accumulating damage to your skin that you are not aware of?
I think it's a good idea to minimize the frequency of shaving for a month, and only do one pass WTG when you really want to shave.

I think the impression of razors and blades will change dramatically depending on the condition of skin and beard.

 

[Alex Jr]

Is it possible that you are accumulating damage to your skin that you are not aware of?
I think it's a good idea to minimize the frequency of shaving for a month, and only do one pass WTG when you really want to shave.

I think the impression of razors and blades will change dramatically depending on the condition of skin and beard.

This. Sometimes my skin is a little damaged from a new razor or experimentation and the subsequent shaves are always horrible. To the point where I asked myself if I had forgotten how to shave (always on the ATG pass).

Then time goes by and suddenly you have that autopilot shave where it seems you didn’t even put a blade in, again, specially on the last ATG pass. And you go “wow, this is so easy, why does it feel so harsh sometimes?”

Probably your skin. Probably.

 

[PurpuraPuer]

This. Sometimes my skin is a little damaged from a new razor or experimentation and the subsequent shaves are always horrible. To the point where I asked myself if I had forgotten how to shave (always on the ATG pass).

Then time goes by and suddenly you have that autopilot shave where it seems you didn’t even put a blade in, again, specially on the last ATG pass. And you go “wow, this is so easy, why does it feel so harsh sometimes?”

Probably your skin. Probably.

me too. The same razor is as different as paradise and torture.
I am a newbie to wet shaving for a few months and have already bought too many razors
(Muhle Companion, Merkur 41c, EJ DE89, DsT7se, RR BBS, GreenCult GC2.0)
And now my skin is at its worst due to excessive pressure, ATG buffing, and touch-ups in pursuit of a close shave. I guess I was trying to shave below the surface of my skin. I finally realized that the pain caused by shaving is actually pain inside the hair follicles and surrounding skin, rather than on the surface of the skin.
I think it is this balance because buffing around with a mild razor damages the inside of the skin, while an aggressive razor damages the surface of the skin.
Naturally, I'll be buying new razor on Black Friday this month.

 

[cpcohen1945]

. . . I haven't ordered an expensive razor yet because I need to first sort basic technique and decide the aggressive level (but I doubt I would have a clue without actually having the razors to support it).

I have also ordered a blade sample pack which should get me to use Feather, Derby, Gilette (SBS, Platinum, Nacet), Astra (SS/SP), Personna Blue and one or two other brands - but I will need to resolve basic technique before it.

FWIW --

I started shaving with a Tech. When I complained about razor burn, the suggestion I got was:

. . . "Use less pressure."

That worked, sort of.

Then I got an EJ DE89, a mild-to-medium middle-of-the-road DE. It worked well with Feather blades, as long as I remember to use _no pressure_.

I got a Merkur Progress adjustable, and it's what I use most of the time, set to "1.5", just a little bit milder than the DE89.

I got a Razorock Lupo Aluminum. The machining is beautiful, with perfect fit and no blade movement, and the gap is about right. But it doesn't handle clogging as well as the Progress.

In your place, I'd do several things:

. . . Get a good adjustable razor -- a Pearl Flexi (quite heavy), a Merkur Progress (keep the blade centered over the baseplate, as you tighten it -- see Mantic59's video), a Parker Variant (recent reports are quite good, the early ones had problems).

Set the blade gap really tight, so it's quite mild.

. . . Use _one type of blade_ (I picked a Feather) and learn how to not get cut, scraped, or irritated. Expect to put in a new blade frequently -- sharp blades cut hair, dull blades need pressure, and then cut skin.

. . . . . Then, if you want to, increase the blade gap _slowly_.

Stop increasing the gap when you find it difficult to get a blood-free, irritation-free shave, and reduce the gap a bit. That's probably a good setting for long-term use.

The theory of shaving without irritation is simple:

The soap film on your face should be viscous enough so that the blade _doesn't go through it_, and doesn't touch your skin, but glides over a very thin lubricating layer. The beard hairs stick up above that level, and get cut off.

Because of that, if you're shaving against the grain, use the sharpest blade you can. Any dull blade will be pulled down the slanted hair, break through the lubricating soap film, and scrape or cut you.

The more slippery the lather, the better. Try adding a bit of silicone lube, or "silky smooth" hair conditioner (which contains silicones) to the lather.

Occasionally, I use an _alcohol-free_ shave balm. It's Tabac for me, but I suspect that Nivea would work OK. (Some Nivea post-shave mixes have alcohol, some don't.)

I have no more advice to offer.

. Charles

 

[Noclue]

I've noticed a considerable decrease in burning and irritation after my last few shaves, largely thanks to improved shaving technique and better pre- and post-shave care, including the use of quality shaving cream.

However, the most noteworthy improvement came when I switched my blade from Feather to Gillette Platinum while using the Feather Popular Razor. This change has made my shaving experience significantly smoother.

I'm also have a Gillette Super Blue (a Tech clone) on the way, which I snagged for three dollars on AliExpress; it should arrive by next week. This will further my exploration into how different razors perform. Additionally, I'm looking forward to the 11/11 sale to acquire some premium razors from Yaqi (Vostok 90DC, Tile and maybe Ghost) and DS Cosmetics S9.