RTM's way

[RTM]

A lull in the race - Passover.
Yesterday I skipped the shave; I'm averse to rushing things. I knew very well that today I will have plenty of time to go luxury. But first thing first - Thursday, 18: good shave with Astra #4.2, Stirling Ben Franklin and Jack Black Double Duty. 2.5 passes with Proraso Red before the first wtg pass and oil before half pass atg on my cheeks. Good lather, slick and fragrant. No issues and a very pleasant shave.
Today, I had time. Face wash and mud mask. Proraso White before first pass, oil before the second and again before the half pass.
Stirling came in a smallish tin so I thought of moving the soap to a more roomy container. Best I could think of was the old T+S plastic tub. There was a bit left, enough for one shave. I could've simply discard it but I have a great respect for the person who made the soap; it wouldn't be right to wash it down the sink so I shaved with what looked like a slug in the tub. Astra #4.3. Verdict: T+S is a good soap and I am glad I tried it, but given choice I'd go with Phoenix and Beau. I'd go with Stirling too but Stirling being an American brand is not easily available in my neck of woods. I got mildish irritation on one side of my lower neck and on both sides down from my mouth. Cleaned the nape too. Astra felt a bit rough, and I discarded the blade afterwards. I finished with the Peace Maker by SV and a generous dab of Captain Choice ASB from the sample.

 

[RTM]

Personna #5.1. Albion soap.
Yesterday's shave was worse that expected. So today I knew I was going to butcher my face. Basically I went on to scrape my skin raw with four passes and a new blade. If I wouldn't do it I would end up with ingrowns. Taking care of my skin with medical grade Weleda cream.

 

[RTM]

Must log shaves.
On Sunday I scraped my face to BBS overshaving on purpose. It helps in preventing ingrowns but for obvious reasons this is not the preferred way of exfoliating facial skin. I can't praise enough the Weleda Calendula cream. Very efficient albeit oily. Preferably used at night. Weleda Calendula outshines the SV Peacemaker I kept for the occasion.
Personna #5.2 on Tuesday, Proraso Red before passes 1 and 2, Stirling Ben Franklin with Weleda as postshave. By the book three pass shave with oil applied before the third x/atg pass. No irritation, not a scratch.
Today, exfoliating with the Rugged and Dapper face wash and rotating brush; Personna #5.3 Propraso Red before the first pass, oil before the third. Three pass shave with very good result, applied two pumps of oil as a post-shave, plus Jack Black Double Duty.
Passes: first - wtg, riding the cap with shortest possible strokes, buffing; second - wtg long strokes with a little bit of pressure, closer to the bar than the cap; third - riding the cap x/atg, short strokes, buffing.
Stirling Ben Franklin is a good soap, the scent doesn't feel overpowering although fairly strong. I don't reach for P&B, going with Stirling. Yesterday I looked at my MdC Rose and Nuavia Red. There has to be an occasion to crack them up.
Twice I went for 48 hours shave to let it heal, and that will be enough. Missing my routine too much to let it skip.

 

[RTM]

Skipped shave yesterday because I went to the beach. Temperature is in mid 20's Celsius (upper 70s Fahrenheit), basically winter freeze. Kids didn't mind the cold and went on with what kids normally do at the beach. I am not getting in until the water is Med grade, warm and fuzzy.
36 hours after my previous shave I hit the sink: face wash Rugged and Dapper with rotating brush. Few drops of oil, Proraso Red, brushing teeth. Stirling Ben Franklin - I simply can't let go of the soap. I thought of lathering up Phoenix and Beau, and then went on with Stirling again. I think I detect a hint of bay/cloves in the scent, and it fits the general ambiency. Personna #5.4 - blade is doing fine. Two passes wtg, more oil, a/xtg and cleaned up my nape with leftovers. I forgot to cold wash my face and guess what? nothing happened. I didn't need the post shave at all. I went with P&B Imperial Rum anyway, just for the fresh berberry scent, it goes well with Stirling. My preferred post is Jack Black Double Duty but there are several bottles/tubes of other stuff that is simply too good to pass over.

 

[RTM]

Several thoughts: need for pre-shave vs habit. I am less and less sure I need Proraso preshave, and still somewhat reluctant to let it go. Two halves of Red and White make one jar. I will use it for now and when jars are empty I will stick with a little oil before each pass. Choice of soap is important which brings me to another thought: I know that my unbeatable favourites are MdC and PannaCrema. I would love to use them but I feel I haven't given sufficient time for P&B, plus Stirling showed up recently accompanied by B&M Latha Unscented as a result of a very nice trade. I have yet to try Latha. I know for a fact that MdC and Pannacrema deserve their full attention. Plus 250 grams of Panama 1924 which I know of, and good things only.
Choosing up and sticking with one soap for a month/week/3017 is one way to go about it. Changing soaps too frequently is not my thing. I think I will stick with changing (or not) soaps when I change spent blade, or whenever I feel like it. Doesn't look like a sustainable system, definitely not a reliable one.
On the other hand introducing a quantum of uncertainty into any system or part of thereof is known to have overall beneficial effect. Or quite the opposite; or nothing at all - three set choices reminiscent of Russian fairy tales when the seeker always had to pick up one choice out of three and continue, never to go back and reconsider.
That's what I like about life - its inquisitive nature. No plan survives the battlefield, and one is forced to let the random call to determine the outcome. One's ability to consider seemingly random factors brings about the feel of "everything is under control". One sleeps better knowing that, with reality continue unabated. With the outcome depending on one's ability to handle random, the ability to handle random is random itself. Therefore, people are the problem, and use of /dev/random is so outdated it pains my liver to even consider built in rng for anything other than python example code.

 

[MilkCrate]

I usually run a matching set of soap and AS(B).

I also usually choose one hardware/software kit for the work week. Weekends are completely random kit. Keeps it interesting without being too chaotic.

 

[RTM]

I usually run a matching set of soap and AS(B).

I also usually choose one hardware/software kit for the work week. Weekends are completely random kit. Keeps it interesting without being too chaotic.

I consider Tim's post the proverbial random bit. Maybe this is the way, one week at a time. The only path to find out is to actually do it. I'll go for weekly, today's being Sunday - the first day of the week.
Random bits tend to appear in random fashion, so I got two of them and anticipate several more. The cause for today's second random bit was my predilection for shoeboxes. Modern industry is offering boatload of ergonomic and organic storage solutions; defiant, I stick with sturdy shoeboxes. I haven't much to keep in them, memories been digitalized long ago; never consider myself a sentimental type so no mementos, except usual military paraphernalia - beret, dog-tags etc. Long story short, Dr. Martens shoebox was brought to me by my wife; she found it while looking for something entirely else; shoebox contained shaving things. I am at loss how they got there. Best bet are aliens.
Contents of the box were Aqua di Parma shaving cream about 1/3 full, two tubs of St. James of London: Sandalwood and Bergamot - 2/3, Black Pepper and Lime - half, Klar soap for ladies (why for ladies? probably because the scent is ginger-y) almost full puck, brand new Hawkins and Brimble scrub and post-shave, Perricon MD postshave, several tucks of blades.
Definitely, aliens.

 

[RTM]

I binned Personna blade and started off this week with Bluebeard's Revenge - never heard of the brand. Blades and wrapper have nothing printed on them, no name, no super-duper-platinum. Splash of water, Proraso White, Aqua di Parma. I swirled my brush for 20 seconds in the tub, maybe less, and got three passes worth of premium lather. The scent is very generic to me, like a supermarket sport shave gel. Lather however was good. Oil before second wtg pass. Blade seems to be doing alright, Personna grade; will have to see later on, after several shaves. Nicked myself - tiny weeper on the right under the chin, entirely my fault. Reminder - keep the angle. Third half pass and cleaned my nape too.
When one is feeling that one is getting on with the random stuff, the Universe shows one who is the boss. I put on Rugged and Dapper postshave and had to wash it off in ten minutes time. Too many new variables were introduced today. Went back to Jack Black Double Duty and felt much better. All in all, a decent result.

 

[RTM]

Yesterday I went for the usual routine with Bluebeards Revenge blade and Acqua di Parma croap. I binned the blade and decided to put AdP back into the shoebox. There was the reason why it was found there: AdP is an OK cream. Not bad, but I rank P&B and Stirling above. Yesterday's shave felt a bit rough, no irritation, no weepers but somehow I didn't like it as much. I will revisit the blade later.
Today I took out Stirling Ben Franklin with Personna #1. Couple of drops of oil, Proraso Red, textbook lather. Two wtg passes, several drops of oil before the second pass. Post was cold splash and Jack Black Double Duty. The feel was much better than yesterday. Consistent set up, consistent results. One may ask why bother and change things.

 

[RTM]

Same set up for two days: Proraso White pre-shave for the first, oil before second and third pass, Trafalgar soap, Personna (#2 and #3) blade.
DFS+ and not a scratch. Got huge jar of mango butter to put on my face overnight. I do see and feel the result.
Work is getting on my nerves and it shouldn't. This too shall pass as they say.

 

[RTM]

There is a thread somewhere on the forum asking people what have they learned from their last shave. One of the returning narratives is "I thought the blade had a bit of life left, and oh boy was I in for disappointing shave with a dull steel". Oh boy, was I swearing today...
My last three shaves with Personna were significantly more thorough than usual. I failed to acknowledge that. Fourth shave with worn out blade today led to swearing under my breath in the privacy of the bathroom.
Today I took Albion for a spin. Oil and Proraso Red before the first wtg pass; put on couple of drops of oil and load more soap from the tub for second wtg at steeper angle; repeat for third x/atg pass. This is where I noticed certain discomfort. That's how dull blade feels like. No major damage done, minor irritation in couple of more tender spots near Adam's apple. I went for post shave with a vengeance: SV Peacemaker followed by Weleda Calendula. Couple of hours later the skin is still oily but traces of irritation have gone. Skin irritation that is.
I've read about folks who get dozens of shaves from a single blade. Well, I am not one of them and barring blade-o-calypse I will never be. I see the point of buying truckloads of newest-latest-greatest soaps or sticking with godawful [insert your least liked soap here]; maybe I get acquiring several razors and brushes. But why prolong blades? Takes all sorts I suppose, still the common sense shouldn't leave the building.

 

[Clay S]

I guess were better at judging that the blade is dull and change it rather than letting it causing discomfort.

 

[MilkCrate]

I usually get 5 shaves on a blade. They are too cheap not to bin and grab a new one.

 

[RTM]

Must log shaves, however busy...

I usually get 5 shaves on a blade. They are too cheap not to bin and grab a new one.

Five full shaves for me on one blade is borderline. Feather maybe, not Personna and definitely not Derby. You're right, blades are cheap and should be replaced more frequently. If go with 2-3 uses.

I guess were better at judging that the blade is dull and change it rather than letting it causing discomfort.

Too right. I shouldn't be stubborn and finish the shave with the same blade if it feels spent.

Last two days I was truly busy, like in the good old days. Nevertheless I took a moment and got both shaves right. Fifteen minutes or so of lull in the storm, almost meditative state of mind.
Yesterday it was Albion and today Ben Franklin. Astra blade for both shaves, binned today. Astra feels rougher than say Personna, it delivers a smooth shave though. There is something amiss with that blade for me.
Stirling is way more fragrant than P&B, and today it was just right. Yesterday I needed much less distraction so Albion was a good choice. Proraso Red and oil, the usual.
Today I went for a closer shave because I wanted to get rid of the remnants of the last two days. Silly of me but that's how I do things sometimes. No irritation, dryish post feel which I countered with extra application of Jack Black double duty.
Weleda Calendula cream for the night. Expensive stuff but the skin feels fantastic in the morning.
Tomorrow I think I will try one of the samples. I got couple of days off quite unexpectedly and I will use them to try new things and catch up on some sleeping time I missed.

 

[Clay S]

Must log shaves, however busy...

Five full shaves for me on one blade is borderline. Feather maybe, not Personna and definitely not Derby. You're right, blades are cheap and should be replaced more frequently. If go with 2-3 uses.

Too right. I shouldn't be stubborn and finish the shave with the same blade if it feels spent.

Last two days I was truly busy, like in the good old days. Nevertheless I took a moment and got both shaves right. Fifteen minutes or so of lull in the storm, almost meditative state of mind.
Yesterday it was Albion and today Ben Franklin. Astra blade for both shaves, binned today. Astra feels rougher than say Personna, it delivers a smooth shave though. There is something amiss with that blade for me.
Stirling is way more fragrant than P&B, and today it was just right. Yesterday I needed much less distraction so Albion was a good choice. Proraso Red and oil, the usual.
Today I went for a closer shave because I wanted to get rid of the remnants of the last two days. Silly of me but that's how I do things sometimes. No irritation, dryish post feel which I countered with extra application of Jack Black double duty.
Weleda Calendula cream for the night. Expensive stuff but the skin feels fantastic in the morning.
Tomorrow I think I will try one of the samples. I got couple of days off quite unexpectedly and I will use them to try new things and catch up on some sleeping time I missed.

Some days it's time to change the blade, some times it's me and it's time to stop at 1 or two passes.

Calendula is a great additive! I look for it in AS's to use when shaves go bad.

 

[RTM]

Logging two identical shaves - yesterday and today.
I've received several samples as a generous extra in trade, among them a sample of Captain's Choice 45th Parallel cream. Standard size, about 7-8 grams - I figured enough for two shaves. I went with Astra SP because I had three left (now two) and there is no point of letting them to sit in the box. Blades should be out often . I think I will use all my Astras up. They're good blades, a bit too rough for my liking though. Perfect for trying out new cream.
First thing first - the scent transports you to a coffee shop in Vienna. Unmistakable smell of almond gateaux, or a shot of almond schnapps with your coffee, the one that permeates the whipped cream on top.
Yesterday I was dialing in, and got acceptable lather and not so bad shave. Today I knew what I was doing. The lather was good, the shave was much closer and completely irritation-free. I would not hesitate to rank CS comparable, or equal in quality to Mühle/Edwin Jagger creams; of course, scent-wise CS being an American brand is way stronger.
Finished off with Saponificio Varesino ProVictis, or the Peacemaker. No scent, the skin absorbs it in minutes - good emollient.
Blade did well in both shaves, so I will keep it for tomorrow too with no reservations.

Calendula is a great additive! I look for it in AS's to use when shaves go bad.

Calendula essence heals - proven, so is Hamamelis. In layman's terms, marigold and witch hazel.
I used up the tube of Weleda Calendula (25 grams, too small for the price but such is life) and opened up Weleda Hamamelis to try - either works fine. I am not advocating for any particular maker, I do however recommend using medicated cream as a night treatment. Look for reputable brand though.

 

[RTM]

Binned the Astra today after the third shave. Nicked myself - my fault but the blade gets it.
I got an ingrown on my neck. Looks like mosquito bite. I am more and more of the opinion that I prefer soaps to creams.
Couple of years ago I liked creams better. MdC and Nuavia changed my approach to shaving. That's why I use pre-shave - I am trying to replicate that Nuavia feel with other soaps. It works, to a point. Why don't I drop everything and go for MdC and Nuavia forgetting the rest? I would feel bad for other soaps I didn't try. Silly notion, I know, but I am glad I tried several. Stirling's of the good ones.
Today it was Red Proraso for pre-shave, it pairs better with Ben Franklin. Lather was whipped to perfection. Pass one - check, oil and pass two - check, more pre-shave and I nicked myself on the chin. Tiny superficial cut - I sort of rested the razor on my chin for a second and voila. By the time I washed off the suds little blood was gone but it certainly put a damp on the whole shave. Astra was banished to the blade bank straight away.
JB Double Duty and I claim DFS.

 

[RTM]

I think the powers-that-be should pass a legislation allowing the man time to whip up a good lather on a business trip. I certainly didn't have enough time every day. Ok shaves were compensated by lack of sleep. You know, when you're too busy to notice anything except work. My face took some rough beating (not literally), but I wouldn't dream of complaining. Got to heal those tiny abscesses that sprang all over my face because of ingrowns. Still, I claim life is good. Ingrowns too shall pass.
Starting next month I'll be having quiet ten or twelve weeks doing the course in the office with adjustable air conditioning and probably a cooler featuring disposable organic cups. Shave every morning with no rush will restore my mental equilibrium. Or wreck it.
Still, gotta look good and be clean shaven regardless.

 

[RTM]

Phoenix and Beau Trafalgar today. Derby Premium for the third and final use. I should have changed it. Nothing was wrong; still, a good practice to use the blade for two shaves. No pre-shave at all. Just lather, and a really good one. Two wtg passes, plus atg on sideburns. Alum made itself felt a bit around the mouth. I know, I was a naughty boy and nearly butchered my face several times last fortnight. All will be o.k.from now on because there'll be more time and substantially more peace of mind. Double duty as post shave, I missed my blue bottle of moisturizer.
I decided I will use up all my pre-shave and won't get any to replace. Proper lather should be enough as demonstrated today. Last couple of weeks I've re-learnt the meaning of having less and I liked the lesson.

 

[RTM]

Early morning shave called for two-horse-power scent to wake up. Stirling Ben Franklin does not disappoint. The lather was text-book: loading wet brush for about 30 seconds, then adding spoonful of water and building on a puck for a minute followed by face lather. Two point five passes with Derby Premium #1. Post was Jack Black Double Duty.
I am still experimenting by skipping pre-shave on purpose. I meant to do so for some time. I think now I improved my technique enough to the point of making pre-shave obsolete. Still I will use up remains of Proraso pre-shave.
There are two simple ingredients for a good shave: lather and technique. I think I am comfortable with both; technique could be pushed further. Sharp blade does not forgive slacking off. One slip and the "reward" is something nasty or worse, several nasties on the face plus ruined mood. Sharp blade hones one's ability to concentrate during such a mundane task as shaving.