RTM's way

[RTM]

I was doing the F4M, documenting every shave for March, maybe missing one or two. I thought it would be a good idea to continue and document my routine. It should help me in identifying omissions and errors.
Since January 2017 I use one razor and one sivertip brush. Both made by Edwin Jagger, both top of their line - Chrome Bulbous. Needlessly expensive, but I never cared about the price of an item. I paid for and bought my immunization against AD for razors and brushes. Plus, they're seriously good looking pieces, amazing craftmanship.
Also present: EJ long handle razor of a less expensive variety I bought in 2015, now used for travels; EJ travel badger brush I got in small barber shop in Amsterdam in January 2013; a simple badger brush I got from Mühle in 2012, which is there for emergencies. Two other shaving related items I own are black apothecary mug and chrome brush+razor stand; yes, both by Edwin Jagger. Incidentally, I use mug for soaking, as I prefer lathering directly on the face.
Thus, two variables are soap and blade.

 

[RTM]

Current soap line up in my shoe box: Phoenix and Beau Imperial Rum, Albion and Trafalgar; Martin de Candre Rose; PannaCreama Nuavia Rosso; Boellis Panama 1924 brick in cardboard packaging.
February 3 to March 31 I used Tallow+Steel Boreal for every shave (50+ in total), and the tub is empty now.
Today I went for Imperial Room, and I intend to stick with it for the whole month of April.
Blades are Feather, Personna and Derby Premium. I find that every soap requires its own blade.
T+S worked with Feather only. Neither Personna, nor Derby brought about above average result. It wasn't bad, or unacceptable. Simply put - Feather did a better job. There is a price to pay for using Feather; it is increased risk of irritation, or worse, weepers.
Today I went to pair Imperial Rum with Personna, and it was spot on.

 

[RTM]

I was raving about T+S; it is a good soap, all in all. I thought of buying it once more sometimes when I will be down on my last puck. Right now, I am less sure about it.
Phoenix & Beau is better. For me that is. It was just one shave; not enough data to do the comparison but something tells me that T+S was put on a back bench. Time will tell.
Personna #1.1, three passes plus nape. 2 wtg and atg. DFS, or maybe DFS+. Post was alum and Saponificio Varesino PeaceMaker followed (half an hour later) by Jack Black Double Duty.
wtg is more of a mix of wtg and xtg. Every square inch of my stubble grows in different direction, I mapped it well enough. Following the map proved impossible. I don't do atg normally. Some years ago I used to wear a full beard, and at the time I was working in less than acceptable sanitary conditions and downright @#$! weather. I couldn't properly wash my face, only able to clip off the excess hair once a month or two; grime accumulated in my beard, there were tiny scratches, nicks, irritations. I finally shaved clean and was presented with lots of tiny abcesses on both cheeks and along the jaw line. It took some long and painful healing, hence my sensitivity to atg. There are couple of spots still healing.

 

[RTM]

I find shaving oil a great help. It creates an extra layer of protection when applied between passes. Sometimes I use Proraso preshave, but all three Proraso's tend to tingle my skin. In summer months I find it even pleasant but generally, oil is less harsh. I used Phoenix and Beau Wilderness oil - nice, rich fir scent, complemented T+S Boreal to a T.
Now I use Anthony's shaving oil and it does the job. I could probably use extra virgin olive with the same result. Will try one day.
I don't wear scents at all. Not that I don't like them, I just don't wear them. All my ASBs are either scentless like SV Pro Victis (Peace Maker), or have lightest possible and quickly dissipating scent like Jack Black Double Duty. I have several post lotions by P&B, their scents dissipate in half an hour or less. But I found that aloe based ointments are a bit sticky after drying up, so I use them less often, although I like their scents. Before going to bed I put on a thick layer of mango or shea butter, or heavy duty moisturizer (currently Rugged and Dapper). The skin absorbs it completely overnight .

 

[RTM]

Personna #1.2, two point five passes. Hands down - good shave. Pre for the first pass was Proraso Red, for the second - Anthony's shavig oil. Post was Jack Black Double Duty. Imperial Rum produces text-book lather, although I think that for me the bay rum variations are not meant to be used everyday. Imperial Rum scent is not strong, slightly above average for British-made soap but well within comme il faut. I think bay rum / spice in general is a bit aggressive for my liking. I was always asking myself why Americans are obsessed with Old Spice products. They're part of childhood ambience for many, first shave, first cigarette, I get that. But... Old Spice? There is no accounting for taste, really. I've seen people are still using Colgat and Palmolive and several other godawful products in 2019. Go figure...
Anyway, I will continue and use this tub of soap for the whole of April. I keep comparing P&B to Tallow+Steel, and right now T+S does not rank high among wines and spirits. I really liked it last week. It shows that a bit of restraint in judgement is beneficial.
Fun fact: tomorrow my shower soap in gym will be about half puck of Penhaligon's Bayolea. Expensive shower one might argue but as a shave soap Penhaligon's no use. Today I showered with last bits of Bath House Spanish Fig. As a shave soap, it was right there with Penhaligons, and absolutely fine in the shower.

 

[RTM]

Personna #1.3. Average shave, my fault. I wasn't concentrating. Lather was o.k.because I added a bit more water than needed. Binned the blade to make me feel better. Several tiny abscesses on my left cheek bled out, not shave related, it happens sometimes. Will have to buy salicylic acid solution tomorrow. Was dreading it will happen and voila.

 

[RTM]

New blade, Personna #2.1.
I am not on a clock but I like having sense of time without having to look at my watch. Hence several time keeping tricks, if trick is the word I am looking for.
Cleaned my face with Rugged and Dapper using rotating facial brush, timer - 30 seconds. Proraso Red as pre for the first pass. I let it sit on my face while I brushed my teeth. Two minutes timer in the electric brush gives me indication of how long. Before lathering up I switch on this little Fire tablet; it has a steampunk feel because of its voice activated features. Side note: from software point of view the Fire is downright bad, and as to hardware... it is so underdog, one of the reasons I like it. I ask the thing to play the news feed, and BBC and Reuters fill my first pass with whatever they think is news worthy. They are on a clock though whether it is a major war, or a kitten stuck on a tree.
Phoenix and Beau delivers, yes sir! Silvertip is naturally paired with softer soaps. Heavy feel of EJ is reassuring. Every time I pick it up I hear Slavic accent of Boris the Blade: if it doesn't work you can always hit him with it.
I put on one of the internet radio stations for the second pass; sometimes I pick something decidedly pop-stupid, or jazz groove, or BBC3 when I feel like an intellectual. Today was Groove Salad. Four drops of Anthony's shave oil, lather up for second pass, smeared a bit for touch up on my sideburn area, cleaned up the nape. Skipped alum and witch hazel, didn't feel the need for them. Couple of pumps of Jack Black Double Duty for fresher feel. The new man is looking at the new day.

 

[RTM]

Recently, I watched several shave instructon videos made by people who are respected / mentioned by members here. I realized that if I were to shave their way I would butcher my face on a first stroke. I am not implying youtube mentors are not worthy; I am saying my face is not theirs.
I was never taught how to shave. When I started shaving at the age of 16 or so, I used to get irritation every time, and sometimes a particularly bad one. It was part of the process: bar of bath soap - no brush, cursing, scrapping, applying stinking alcohol aftershave, holding scream and tears. Same blade for shaving and sharpening the pencil - it was norm, I am not exaggerating in the slightest. I mean, not a soul could imagine that shaving may be pleasant. It was something to dread about, curse after slicing your skin, and suffer. No exceptions. I was raised in a less fashionable part of the world where carts were unknown to gen pop, and the word disposable did not exist. (I ran away the moment I was legally adult 30 something years ago, and never looked back.)
These are my thoughts when I read about vintage stuff from the time when the grass was greener.

 

[RTM]

Personna #2.2. I applied shave oil instead of Proraso on my first pass. I shouldn't do that. Shave oil works better when the bulk of stubble has been mowed down. I like performance of Phoenix and Beau; however more and more of the opinion that bay rum scent is not my cup of tea. Maybe here or there to suit the mood, not everyday. I will use it until the month's end though. I was known to rush my judgement, so I will say my thing by the end of April. Still, the soap base is top quality. First pass wtg, tried wetting my face with a little water and going wtg on my sideburns area without relathering. Fast and smooth, but I prefer lather. Lathered and continued riding the cap. Alum was silent. Post feels dryish somewhat. Jack Black Double Duty to freshen up. Applied twice in 15 minutes. Does the job. All in all - not half bad.

 

[RTM]

Personna #2.3. Skipped shave yesterday. Tried another brand of oil today for a prep, not even designated as the shave oil. Confirms my theory that the word 'shave' in oil is a hoax. It is all down to a nice smell. Today the oil had very nice albeit heady scent. Good first pass. Normally, I lightly dab my face with the towel after each pass so it stays moist but not wet. Today I left out this part and had to relather because water ate the soap. Second pass was on a thinner layer but very slick. Third half-pass as usual, then cleaned up nape. Alum was not needed, at all. Could've gone with moisturizer only. Debating with myself whether to bin the blade.
Yesterday I finally had time to walk to the pharmacy, got solution of salicylic acid in alcohol to treat blood sipping through pores on my cheeks. Worked miracles after swabbing every hour or two. Now skin feels a bit drier that usual bit tiny wounds are almost gone. From my previous experience, it'll take couple of days to heal properly.

 

[RTM]

Today is the country-wide day off - election day. Even sworn workaholics, and I am certainly a perfect example of a hopelessly lost case here, are not feeling bad about enjoying the day. My civic duty is done, and I was set for a bit of luxury shave. Started out with Rugged and Dapper cleansing, followed by 20 minutes mud mask. Safe jazz on the internet radio. Proraso Red for preshave. Lather was excellent - Phoenix & Beau delivers, no mistake. Personna #2.4 - yesterday I was thinking of discarding the blade and decided against it; rightly so. Smooth first pass. Residual slickness made me wonder should I re-lather? Yes I should, and second pass wtg was a good one. Four drops of aromatic oil blend, and a half pass a/xtg. I skipped the alum, there was really no need. DFS+, and I am being modest. Post was Jack Black Double Duty. Good stuff.

 

[MilkCrate]

Welcome to the journals!

 

[RTM]

Yesterday a smallish family get together happened. One of my relatives is shaving with DE. We talked about this and that and I PIFed him my Phoenix and Beau Imperial Rum. I know he will enjoy close shave with this soap, hope he likes bay rum scent more than I do. I felt really good about this PIF. Today I cracked open another Phoenix and Beau - Albion. Personna #2.5 - I should've replaced the blade for the new soap, I simply forgot. Prep was Rugged and Dapper face wash, Proraso Red for the first pass. I expected a good lather - and I got it. The scent is milder than Imperial Rum in strength, more on a floral side, pleasant and not intruding. I can see me using it for the remainder of the month and maybe even May, no problem. P&B Albion is a spring soap. I also have Trafalgar which looks like a good choice for the summer, scent-wise. Second pass - oil, relather. Third pass - oil, went to load more from the puck. Cleaned up my nape too. The lather is outstanding. Skipped alum, I didn't think I needed it, splashed a bit of Rose whitch hazel and let it dry while I was tending to my gear. I binned the blade - it was fine but there is no need to actually feel the tugging on my next shave.

 

[RTM]

Welcome to the journals!

Thanks, Tim!

 

[RTM]

Fourty eight hours bristles are 2-3 mm growth. Technically the blade doesn't care for the length of facial hair. The shaver does though. Shorter stubble is easier to mow down, and that was empirically proven.
I was doing the Soap of the Month challenge with Imperial Rum I PIFed, so I failed that. Albion was much more to my taste, and I thought I am going to use it for the remainder of the month.
The weather today was really summery-like, and I decided I will do the test run with Trafalgar. It has fresh light scent; ideally suited for today.
Prep - Rugged and Dapper face wash, mud mask for 20 minunes, Proraso White. I do my lather the following way: soak brush in really hot water, it dissolves whatever residue may left from previous shave. I let gravity to drip about spoonful of water from the brush into the tub, and then I shake my brush dry. Not waiting for blooming, I whip lather up with the amount of water in the tub. Almost always it is just right. I face lather, somehow it suits me better. I did splash 20 quid on EJ black bowl but it's there just for aestetics and soaking. It adds a bit of whatsit, to quote Wodehouse.
Personna #3.1 - fresh blade, love the feeling. Two passes wtg, fragrant oil, half pass x/atg on my cheeks. Post was Trafalgar balm to complete the experience as it were. After post-shave settled, I put a dab of Jack Black Double Duty later on, to lock up the moisture. All over smooth shave.

 

[RTM]

Another fourty eight hours. Didn't want to go more than this, and had to rush. Usual set up no oil and really fast. Personna #3.2. No issues although felt a bit rushed.

 

[RTM]

Last several days were a bit hectic, and the trend is likely to continue for some time. I am not required to be clean shaven so there is no outside pressure. I like the shave itself plus added benefit for my skin, I do notice overall improvement in how I feel. Mowing down 48 hours of stubble is not a problem but 24 hours shave feels somehow better. Had to rush today's shave, and it turned out to be not bad at all.
Face wash, Proraso White, P&B Albion complemented today's rather spring'ish weather perfectly. I didn't drip any water into the tub, instead I shaked my brush not-too-dry and lathered up. Had to add water later. Turns out my method of putting a spoonful of water into the tub works better. Personna #3.3, two point five passes, alum was felt on my upper lip but there was no irritation or even redness. Probably got the angle a bit too steep. Should remember that tomorrow. Post was P&B Imperial Rum balm. The scent is somehow not the same as the IR soap. More sweet berberry than clove and bay. Gone quickly too.

 

[RTM]

Hectic lifestyle continues uninterrupted, no time to stop and smell the roses, or log shaves.
Yesterday I received Stirling's Ben Franklin soap plus several other goodies which I will crack open in due time. Stirling was practically asking to be lathered. I am sure glad I did. Personna #3.4 and one of the smoothest 2.5-pass shaves ensued. The scent was stragely familiar, (now I know) it is frankincense. Post was Jack Black Double Duty. Binned the blade just because.
Today I was putting my newly acquired stuff into my shave shoebox and found four Astra blades. I have no recollection whence they came but I pressed on with the shave and loaded Astra #4.1 into my trusty EJ. Stirling was there for me today, smooth. One drawback is the container; no room to swing the cat, or badger as it were. I will tranfer it into something with more cubic inches when I have time. Scent is strong and even overwhelming but I am enjoying it because it feels natural. Probably frankencense sits well with Middle Eastern air. Three passes - 2 wtg and x/atg. I went to put four drops of oil and reload after the second pass. Post was Captain's Choice ASB from a sample that came in with the soap. Does the job but I am not impressed. Left my face sticky. Back to Jack Black for the next shave. One thing to note - there is absolutely no difference in feel between Personna and Astra blades. Both performed well.
Boys got their Beresheet t-shirts - Dare to Dream. The bloody thing crashed into the Moon but we'll send another one, a much better one.

 

[Clay S]

I hadn't heard of Beresheet until you mentioned it. I guess it isn't important to USA news that it was launching. I'll bet they'll report it crashing though. Frankincense is a great aroma!

 

[RTM]

I hadn't heard of Beresheet until you mentioned it. I guess it isn't important to USA news that it was launching. I'll bet they'll report it crashing though.

Space related / specialty media covered the story pretty well; as for the mainstream - I guess in US there were too many things happening at the time, and they were of greater interest to the American public.
From technical point of view Beresheet was something put together by couple of friends on a wet Wednesday afternoon in dad's garage. It crashed, so what. I am still amazed the thing got there with zero redundancy. The next one is already in the making with better R&D. Beresheet was flown to make sure there will be no shortage of dreamers who will one day tell us, the old guys, to step aside because we are too slow. And we will step aside respectfully.

Frankincense is a great aroma!

True that! I keep the tin open on purpose so the scent permeates through my (tiny) bathroom.