Mühle STF; the be all end all of all synthetic brushes.
Intro
Today was the day. Today, I received the very hyped and much praised Mühle STF in XL (25mm) and the Travel Brush in Chrome (21mm).
Mühle STF in general has been very hyped in the wet shaving community and despite getting different brushes, I have struggled to find the one that really meets the expectations I have been yearning for. Somewhere along the way, I was made aware of the idea of a premium synthetic fibre which looked and felt like an actual silvertip badger brush. Many purists will say this objective is impossible, a mythology, unattainable. Others might take pride in the unique experience which a synthetic can provide.
Today, I can say that I believe my search for the this sacred brush has ended. I think given the tone, you may have already inferred, Mühle STF absolutely meets the hype, but one thing you may not be sure of which of these two brushes is actually better.
Below you can see my review of the Mühle STF brushes, both the travel brush and revered, XL 25 mm knot. Beyond reasonable doubt, one of these 2 brushes offers obviously better value. Can you guess which one I am thinking of?
Below is my method to reviewing the brush;
I aim to review different categories pertinent to the brush, explain my use case- the dimensions as well as performance to conclude with a final review. Although I will be ranking certain fields (apart from quantifiable aspects) 0-5, instead of giving a final average of 0-5 (so as to not bias max backbone where 0 is no backbone and 5 is max - but max is not necessarily the best), I will give a bottom line with the good, the bad and my final thoughts.
TLDR: Mühle STF is the best synthetic money can buy. Both brushes would work excellent. I think the Travel brush is not only nicer, but works better, and offers more versatility.
The Brushes:
My Use Case: Face lathering from a bowl of TOBS Sandalwood (never gets old!) with a 34c (hello old friend) and a trust silver blue.
Specs; XL --- Travel
Cost: £65 ---- £35-£45
Weight: 74g ---- 102g!
Knot Width: 25mm---- 21mm
Knot Height: ~58/60mm ---- ~50mm
Knot Density (observable): high ---- high(er?)
Handle Height: 50mm---- 82mm
Fibre Performance:
(the same unless where specified)
Water Retention: 4/5(XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Heat Retention: 4/5
Backbone: 3/5
Splay: 4/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Softness Factor: 5/5
Scrub Factor: 2/5
Bounce/ Spring Factor: 1/5
Realism Factor (for synths): 5/5
Glue Bump Factor: 2/5(XL) ---- 1/5 (travel)
Precise Factor (when painting): 4/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Flow Through: 3/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
The good: The first obvious thing is the realism of the fibres; the fibres have that almost hair like quality and what I have essentially be looking for. This fibre is very soft in face feel and also with very soft tips. I previously said that Simpson's platinum fibres "rival and I would dare say excel Muhle STF in softness" I redact this statement- Mühle is softer. STF has great water and heat retention.
The bad: None
The neutral: the handles are a subjective thing as far as material and shape goes. Size preference is subjective.
Myths Busted:
+ Myth #1: Density: Every article, video, forum I sought out told me that the 25mm STF knot was better because it was disproportionately denser than the smaller knots; I think as you can see in the photos, this is downright false. I would say with certainty that the travel brush has at least as much, or even a more dense knot. See for yourself (21 mm on the right):
+ Myth #2: Bigger is better; I realise we are delving into the subjective, but time and time again since the first Sterling Kong I bought in 2015/16, I was led to believe a bigger knot is better; In my experience this is not necessarily true.
+ Myth #3: The Aesop V2 brush uses Mühle STF; it definitely doesn't. voila;
Showdown: So between these two brushes with the same fibre, which do I think offers better value? Its a no brainer; the Travel Brush. Many a wet shavers love to patronise and infer the "travel brush" is also "travel sized" or.. "fun sized".. "kid sized"? like those little mars bars you get in the big bags of candy at halloween. Do not be mistaken. The travel brush is serious, like you are travelling for business... and pleasure. Indulge me:
The travel brush weighs more, I prefer this. Subjective. fine, ok. So the travel brush handle is Chrome- metal, I certainly prefer this to resin, which to me is essentially plastic. still subjective. okay, fine. So the travel brush, despite seeming very classic in its appearance like a roman column, is actually also very ergonomic, with a small groove at the base for grip.
an aesthetic preference. subjective..okay. So the handle is longer, and can be used to keep soap off your hands if you bowl lather? fact. the brush can be easily gripped by the deep knurled bit by the base and the deep threading- so you can face lather easier? fact. oh yeah and now you can travel with it? fact. Did I mention it was cheaper than the XL? oh yeah.. but did I also mention that the knot is as dense, or even more dense than the xl? oh yeah.. so did I say that this has even less of a glue bump than the XL? that it splays better? the flow through? yup.
I realise most of that stuff is my preference, but I can say it now with confidence, the Mühle STF travel brush in chrome is clearly my desert island brush. Oh yeah, did I mention, on a desert island this thing will reflect for fricken days and will probably save your life too if your business class flight does end up crashing like in lost? yeah.. no question in my mind.
So what of the defending XL 25mm knot? is it dethroned? .. well can you really dethrone a relative? a brother? Using the same fibre, I dont really think these fratricide is even possible. Though it's clear where the XL does outshine the Travel king.. the homebody luxury brush. There is no question, if you want to feel like a king in the castle, the XL is the bushy luxurious knot to do it. I personally might explore other handles- this one is still plenty comfortable, only I really do wish it was beautiful like my duke 3- or the travel king- which I feel is not only masterful both classic and modern in its performance but also its appearance.
Synopsis:
The Travel Brush:
+ has better flow through and retention, splays easier, is as, or more dense, better for control, more versatile (short and long handle options and travel?!?), and subjectively has a nicer and more durable handle. I would go so far as to say this brush is practically flawless.
The XL:
+ has the same benefit of soft fibres- but functions overall surprisingly worse than the travel brush re: splay, retention, flow through e.t.c.. There is no question; the larger knot is bigger and this feels more bougie and luxurious than the smaller brush- but not really when it functions worse in practice.
Final Thoughts:
This all said, if the XL makes you king in the castle, the travel brush makes you emperor Napoleon, going about town, conquering other places too. Now maybe thats not you, maybe thats too brutalist. But for me, its ideal. Mühle STF is the best synthetic money can buy. Now, is this one situations where I say "dont waste your time and money buy anything else"? no. That's because I know my preference because I have been versed with other brushes. Every brush has it's own advantages and disadvantages, I guess I'll just say the Mühle brushes seem to practically only have advantages for me.. so you decide.
To be sure, this is based off only limited testing- its possible some aspects of the larger STF will change in time. I may need to do an updated review.
Thanks for reading
-----
Showdown
A brief comparison between STF and the other brushes I have and why I think STF is better where it counts:
fun fact: in the above line up photo you can see the order of knots sizes; 25mm on the far left followed by 21mm STF; 22mm Aesop, 23mm Duke, 24mm Razorock, how fun!
vs The Duke 3: better splay, softer, superior heat and water retention, superior flow through.. I know I am sorta disappointed in the Platinum fibres from Simpson's. Platinum fibre also dribbles and flings and yeah.. honestly disappointed. The only things that the The Duke has on STF: Backbone scrub is excellent and the brush is soft, but in a more heavy handed way if that makes sense, whereas STF might make you laugh from how soft it is.
vs Aesop V2: So this was a bit tricky, but in a nutshell these brushes perform comparably, although the Aesop is noticeably less dense, although it is softer in a different sort of way. In some ways I still feel the Aesop brush offers better value than most others and I would recommend it most in lieu of the STF if you are going for this type of synthetic experience.
vs Kong: yeah.. whats there to say- there is no contest. Here is a photo just for reference anyway:
\
vs razorock 400 aluminum: I actually love this brush- but it does not feel luxurious- the hand is heavy which is great- the grip in the handle is excellent- but the brush feel notably mass produced- massive glue bump (which, mind you, totally works to the favour of the brush), but yeah - feels less luxurious and meticulously made. obviously not as soft- and the the effectiveness of the brush is more night and day when we really get down to it- though I still love the plisson style knot.
vs razorock 400 noir: the noir is fun- orange handle- light- crazy soft- but apart from that again its like a drug store brush- and I don't want to judge that- honestly if I was starting with nothing I might go for that instead of the kong to start.
Intro
Today was the day. Today, I received the very hyped and much praised Mühle STF in XL (25mm) and the Travel Brush in Chrome (21mm).
Mühle STF in general has been very hyped in the wet shaving community and despite getting different brushes, I have struggled to find the one that really meets the expectations I have been yearning for. Somewhere along the way, I was made aware of the idea of a premium synthetic fibre which looked and felt like an actual silvertip badger brush. Many purists will say this objective is impossible, a mythology, unattainable. Others might take pride in the unique experience which a synthetic can provide.
Today, I can say that I believe my search for the this sacred brush has ended. I think given the tone, you may have already inferred, Mühle STF absolutely meets the hype, but one thing you may not be sure of which of these two brushes is actually better.
Below you can see my review of the Mühle STF brushes, both the travel brush and revered, XL 25 mm knot. Beyond reasonable doubt, one of these 2 brushes offers obviously better value. Can you guess which one I am thinking of?
Below is my method to reviewing the brush;
I aim to review different categories pertinent to the brush, explain my use case- the dimensions as well as performance to conclude with a final review. Although I will be ranking certain fields (apart from quantifiable aspects) 0-5, instead of giving a final average of 0-5 (so as to not bias max backbone where 0 is no backbone and 5 is max - but max is not necessarily the best), I will give a bottom line with the good, the bad and my final thoughts.
TLDR: Mühle STF is the best synthetic money can buy. Both brushes would work excellent. I think the Travel brush is not only nicer, but works better, and offers more versatility.
The Brushes:
My Use Case: Face lathering from a bowl of TOBS Sandalwood (never gets old!) with a 34c (hello old friend) and a trust silver blue.
Specs; XL --- Travel
Cost: £65 ---- £35-£45
Weight: 74g ---- 102g!
Knot Width: 25mm---- 21mm
Knot Height: ~58/60mm ---- ~50mm
Knot Density (observable): high ---- high(er?)
Handle Height: 50mm---- 82mm
Fibre Performance:
(the same unless where specified)
Water Retention: 4/5(XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Heat Retention: 4/5
Backbone: 3/5
Splay: 4/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Softness Factor: 5/5
Scrub Factor: 2/5
Bounce/ Spring Factor: 1/5
Realism Factor (for synths): 5/5
Glue Bump Factor: 2/5(XL) ---- 1/5 (travel)
Precise Factor (when painting): 4/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
Flow Through: 3/5 (XL) ---- 5/5 (travel)
The good: The first obvious thing is the realism of the fibres; the fibres have that almost hair like quality and what I have essentially be looking for. This fibre is very soft in face feel and also with very soft tips. I previously said that Simpson's platinum fibres "rival and I would dare say excel Muhle STF in softness" I redact this statement- Mühle is softer. STF has great water and heat retention.
The bad: None
The neutral: the handles are a subjective thing as far as material and shape goes. Size preference is subjective.
Myths Busted:
+ Myth #1: Density: Every article, video, forum I sought out told me that the 25mm STF knot was better because it was disproportionately denser than the smaller knots; I think as you can see in the photos, this is downright false. I would say with certainty that the travel brush has at least as much, or even a more dense knot. See for yourself (21 mm on the right):
+ Myth #2: Bigger is better; I realise we are delving into the subjective, but time and time again since the first Sterling Kong I bought in 2015/16, I was led to believe a bigger knot is better; In my experience this is not necessarily true.
+ Myth #3: The Aesop V2 brush uses Mühle STF; it definitely doesn't. voila;
Showdown: So between these two brushes with the same fibre, which do I think offers better value? Its a no brainer; the Travel Brush. Many a wet shavers love to patronise and infer the "travel brush" is also "travel sized" or.. "fun sized".. "kid sized"? like those little mars bars you get in the big bags of candy at halloween. Do not be mistaken. The travel brush is serious, like you are travelling for business... and pleasure. Indulge me:
The travel brush weighs more, I prefer this. Subjective. fine, ok. So the travel brush handle is Chrome- metal, I certainly prefer this to resin, which to me is essentially plastic. still subjective. okay, fine. So the travel brush, despite seeming very classic in its appearance like a roman column, is actually also very ergonomic, with a small groove at the base for grip.
an aesthetic preference. subjective..okay. So the handle is longer, and can be used to keep soap off your hands if you bowl lather? fact. the brush can be easily gripped by the deep knurled bit by the base and the deep threading- so you can face lather easier? fact. oh yeah and now you can travel with it? fact. Did I mention it was cheaper than the XL? oh yeah.. but did I also mention that the knot is as dense, or even more dense than the xl? oh yeah.. so did I say that this has even less of a glue bump than the XL? that it splays better? the flow through? yup.
I realise most of that stuff is my preference, but I can say it now with confidence, the Mühle STF travel brush in chrome is clearly my desert island brush. Oh yeah, did I mention, on a desert island this thing will reflect for fricken days and will probably save your life too if your business class flight does end up crashing like in lost? yeah.. no question in my mind.
So what of the defending XL 25mm knot? is it dethroned? .. well can you really dethrone a relative? a brother? Using the same fibre, I dont really think these fratricide is even possible. Though it's clear where the XL does outshine the Travel king.. the homebody luxury brush. There is no question, if you want to feel like a king in the castle, the XL is the bushy luxurious knot to do it. I personally might explore other handles- this one is still plenty comfortable, only I really do wish it was beautiful like my duke 3- or the travel king- which I feel is not only masterful both classic and modern in its performance but also its appearance.
Synopsis:
The Travel Brush:
+ has better flow through and retention, splays easier, is as, or more dense, better for control, more versatile (short and long handle options and travel?!?), and subjectively has a nicer and more durable handle. I would go so far as to say this brush is practically flawless.
The XL:
+ has the same benefit of soft fibres- but functions overall surprisingly worse than the travel brush re: splay, retention, flow through e.t.c.. There is no question; the larger knot is bigger and this feels more bougie and luxurious than the smaller brush- but not really when it functions worse in practice.
Final Thoughts:
This all said, if the XL makes you king in the castle, the travel brush makes you emperor Napoleon, going about town, conquering other places too. Now maybe thats not you, maybe thats too brutalist. But for me, its ideal. Mühle STF is the best synthetic money can buy. Now, is this one situations where I say "dont waste your time and money buy anything else"? no. That's because I know my preference because I have been versed with other brushes. Every brush has it's own advantages and disadvantages, I guess I'll just say the Mühle brushes seem to practically only have advantages for me.. so you decide.
To be sure, this is based off only limited testing- its possible some aspects of the larger STF will change in time. I may need to do an updated review.
Thanks for reading
-----
Showdown
A brief comparison between STF and the other brushes I have and why I think STF is better where it counts:
fun fact: in the above line up photo you can see the order of knots sizes; 25mm on the far left followed by 21mm STF; 22mm Aesop, 23mm Duke, 24mm Razorock, how fun!
vs The Duke 3: better splay, softer, superior heat and water retention, superior flow through.. I know I am sorta disappointed in the Platinum fibres from Simpson's. Platinum fibre also dribbles and flings and yeah.. honestly disappointed. The only things that the The Duke has on STF: Backbone scrub is excellent and the brush is soft, but in a more heavy handed way if that makes sense, whereas STF might make you laugh from how soft it is.
vs Aesop V2: So this was a bit tricky, but in a nutshell these brushes perform comparably, although the Aesop is noticeably less dense, although it is softer in a different sort of way. In some ways I still feel the Aesop brush offers better value than most others and I would recommend it most in lieu of the STF if you are going for this type of synthetic experience.
vs Kong: yeah.. whats there to say- there is no contest. Here is a photo just for reference anyway:
\
vs razorock 400 aluminum: I actually love this brush- but it does not feel luxurious- the hand is heavy which is great- the grip in the handle is excellent- but the brush feel notably mass produced- massive glue bump (which, mind you, totally works to the favour of the brush), but yeah - feels less luxurious and meticulously made. obviously not as soft- and the the effectiveness of the brush is more night and day when we really get down to it- though I still love the plisson style knot.
vs razorock 400 noir: the noir is fun- orange handle- light- crazy soft- but apart from that again its like a drug store brush- and I don't want to judge that- honestly if I was starting with nothing I might go for that instead of the kong to start.
