Procedure after receiving vintage razor

[Stapelfeld]

Hi friends!

Lately I’ve been scrolling on different market places and getting a few vintage straight razors. I was wondering what are common practices you guys do when receiving a vintage straight razor. Do you disinfect it? What do you use to disinfect it? Do you clean the scales or change them? Basically anything you might think is useful to know when dealing with a vintage find.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Titleist]

Hi friends!

Lately I’ve been scrolling on different market places and getting a few vintage straight razors. I was wondering what are common practices you guys do when receiving a vintage straight razor. Do you disinfect it? What do you use to disinfect it? Do you clean the scales or change them? Basically anything you might think is useful to know when dealing with a vintage find.

Thank you in advance.

Anytime I acquire a vintage or even a brand new straight razor, my first step is to spray the blade with Clippercide. One can never be too careful. Cleaning the scales on the inside with a spritz of Clippercide and a careful wipe in between the scales with folded tissue paper is also something that I do.

If a straight razor is closing properly and the scales are in good condition and the pins are snug, I never replace them. Of course this is all objective upon personal preferences and conditions of the razor.

 

[Steve56]

I don’t disinfect them as most of them are ancient anyway, but I do clean them.

- inspect the razor for cracks, chips, and other imperfections. Sometimes cracks can be difficult to see, and if you find one it probably affects how much effort that you’re going to put into the metal. If you’re buying in person, take a magnifying glass with you.
- If there’s soap scum/residual lather between the scales, soap and warm water and a small brush or paper towels on a popsicle stick/tongue depressor will remove it. Take a piece of bath tissue and wick all the water out of the pivot.
- if there is pitting, rust, etc remove it with a fiberglass brush, steel wool and WD-40, whatever.
- Polish the scales and metal with metal polish. Maas, 3M Marine, Mother’s Mag, etc all work. Stay off the gold decoration if any, as metal polish will remove it.
- once the razor is completely clean and dry, give it a coat of Renaissance Wax. This helps prevent oxidation and fills in any pitting.
- inspect the cutting edge again, to determine which grit stone that you’re going to begin with to return the edge to its former glory.

Hope this helps.

 

[Stapelfeld]

I don’t disinfect them as most of them are ancient anyway, but I do clean them.

- inspect the razor for cracks, chips, and other imperfections. Sometimes cracks can be difficult to see, and if you find one it probably affects how much effort that you’re going to put into the metal. If you’re buying in person, take a magnifying glass with you.
- If there’s soap scum/residual lather between the scales, soap and warm water and a small brush or paper towels on a popsicle stick/tongue depressor will remove it. Take a piece of bath tissue and wick all the water out of the pivot.
- if there is pitting, rust, etc remove it with a fiberglass brush, steel wool and WD-40, whatever.
- Polish the scales and metal with metal polish. Maas, 3M Marine, Mother’s Mag, etc all work. Stay off the gold decoration if any, as metal polish will remove it.
- once the razor is completely clean and dry, give it a coat of Renaissance Wax. This helps prevent oxidation and fills in any pitting.
- inspect the cutting edge again, to determine which grit stone that you’re going to begin with to return the edge to its former glory.

Hope this helps.

This helps a lot, thank you very much!

 

[Stapelfeld]

Anytime I acquire a vintage or even a brand new straight razor, my first step is to spray the blade with Clippercide. One can never be too careful. Cleaning the scales on the inside with a spritz of Clippercide and a careful wipe in between the scales with folded tissue paper is also something that I do.

If a straight razor is closing properly and the scales are in good condition and the pins are snug, I never replace them. Of course this is all objective upon personal preferences and conditions of the razor.

Thank you very much, I will order some clippercide. Thank you again.

 

[2bit_collie]

First thing I do is document the razor in a file on my iPad. Photos from various angles, dimensions, bevel angle, weight, seller, price, and any history.

Then I start with cleaning, rust removal, etc I have never disinfected a razor, never been an issue. There is always sanding, honing, etc that is going to happen, I figure the germs aren’t going to survive that. And yes I do shave with these things and yes I do cut myself at times.

 

[J B Addis]

First thing I do is rinse and wipe them down with alcohol. A lot of the razors I get are in need of heavier restoration, implying they might have been left practically anywhere, and I have no way of knowing how they were stored. For all I know they might have been in a rat infested basement or garage until the day they were shipped out to me. Disinfecting them takes only a minute or two generally, so it seems sensible whether it's necessary in every case or not.

 

[Seelector]

I’ll give the blade and scales a real fast clean, then hone it up and shave. If it shaves well then I’ll go back and do a deeper cleaning and take care of any rust and such.

I’ve never purposely disinfected a razor, but I use alcohol on a q-tip to remove sharpie from honing so that should take care of any germs.

 

[captaincaed]

A small addendum to the good advice already shared.

I learned the hard way that cracks in the edge are basically death for a razor. A crack at the edge means a thin, hollow ground razor will flex, won't always sharpen easily. Worst, when you try to shave and the blade flexes slightly it can open up that crack and start cutting you. I've talked with a couple other guys who've tried to make it work, and our thoughts were "basically not worth it".

Sometimes you get a cracked one, (hopefully not too expensive!) Consider returning it, and if that's not possible, don't sink a ton of time into diligently sharpening and honing. Maybe clean it up and leave it as a show piece. Check for dings in the edge - often where cracks start. Give it a light flex and see if there's an invisible crack.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

I first inspect the razor edge with a loupe, then remove the edge with a 1k diamond file, (1 or 2 swipes) it will get a new edge any way and make a good deep cleaning safer. Have not cut myself with a razor in years.

Hose the razor down withWD40, especially between the scales. Let sit for 5 minutes. Scrub the blade with 0000 steel wool to clean and remove any lite rust.

Wrap a paper towel around a wooden coffee stir stick with the end clipped off with a pair of side/wire cutters so you have a flat scraping edge. Scrub between the scales with the wrapped stir stick, this will remove most of the gunk from between the scales.

If needed use the clipped off end to remove any stubborn spots, if needed wrap the stir stick in 0000 steel wool. Hose it again with WD40 and wipe with a clean paper towel, (buy the ½ sheets from Wal Mart , store brand excellent for razor cleaning and for honing).

Spray with Simple Green, scrub with a toothbrush rinse in warm water and blow dry with compressed air. Canned air works.

I then buff the blade, tang and scales with a loose wheel and Green Stainless Compound. If you do not have a buffer any good metal polish and 0000-steel wool followed by metal polish on a Blue Paper Shop towel will polish the blade and scales. I like Mothers, 3M Marine and Maas.

Then hone. I do this for each razor that comes in for honing and every new razor I buy. I just got in a bunch of NOS vintage Swedish razors; they will all get the same treatment.

I spray and wipe customer razor with Barbicide, then oil for shipping. But really once you cut a new edge, there are no germs. When was the last time you heard about someone catching something from a razor? Have you seen what the guy next to you in the gym is shaving with?

10% bleach solution applied with a Qtip works, it is what we used in a lab in the HIV early days for blood evidence examination.

Vintage razors are the way to go. About a month ago I bought a near NOS Dovo, 1940’s Fritz Bracht in the box for $50, cleaned up a treat and shaves as good as any of my Filly’s.

Buy quality, nothing rusted, chipped, cracked or broken scales. Minimal spine wear, with even bevels. Did I say, Minimal Spine Wear, with even bevels?

Load eBay photos in a photo editor and enlarge the photos looking for defects. Crappy photos, pass. Issues, pass.

Don’t get caught up in name brands, or deals unless collecting, buy quality it is cheaper in the long run. Don’t buy rust.

Remember, there are millions of quality razors in the wild, my best buys have come from Antique stores and Flea Markets, where you can hold and inspect the razor, (carry a folding magnifying glass) and negotiate.

Happy hunting, carry a flashlight for dark antique store cased, in the back of the case, that’s where the good stuff is.

 

[Waistgunner]

No matter whether it's new or old, a 15min complete immersion bath in a barbicide solution is a must for me. Kills everything that may be lingering. Let it dry, oil the pivot point, hone and shave with it. Don't like germs!

 

[Wombat ESQ]

Simply, Gamma Irradiation. Job done!

 

[Gamma]

Treat it how you want to treat it. If you want to clean it, then clean it. Etc.
To me, everything depends on condition, too many possibilities to cover in a single post and even it were possible then there are too many different situations to cover.
There are no rules. Anyone and everyone should be happy with their razor and act accordingly.
Except one thing...there is one thing everyone has to do with every razor if they want to shave with it...
Hone it.
Unless it was honed already. Even then I hone it though.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

Except one thing...there is one thing everyone has to do with every razor...
Hone it.

Nope !!
IF it be a beaten to a pulp I might. IF it be NOS no way in hell am i going to destroy the nos value by making it better than it was!!
I do what I want

 

[Gamma]

Of course, if someone isn't going to use the razor then honing it doesn't matter. doh.
That should be obvious.
Seems to me it's also obvious that the OP is talking about user-type blades.

Note about disinfecting.
Has absolutely nothing to do with ancient bacteria that would be dead after decades or centuries.
Has more to do with whether or not the seller or anyone else handling the blade cut themselves on the blade prior to shipping.
I can't tell you how many times I have seen people cut themselves at a knife show and those blades just get wiped off and put in back in a box. Does anyone really think fleabay sellers that cut themselves on a razor are sterilizing the blade before packing? Lol...
A spritz of DOW or whatever just makes sense and is worth the peace of mind.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Most of the razors I buy require some level of cleaning or restoration. A lot of good advice above.

If I sell a razor, I clean the blade with a solution of Lysol Clean & Fresh Multi-surface Liquid Cleaner (contains the disinfectant alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride) and then isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

 

[Steve56]

Do not use oil, WD-40, Ballistol, etc on bone, wood, ivory, or tortoise scales. I would avoid solvents on these materials too.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

Do not use oil, WD-40, Ballistol, etc on bone, wood, ivory, or tortoise scales. I would avoid solvents on these materials too.

Why?

 

[Steve56]

Why?

Oil will turn bone translucent. Oil will darken/change the appearance of wood.

Never use synthetic oil on irreplaceable scales like ivory or tortoise without testing first - there are many kinds of oil and not all have the same effect on a variety of materials.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

Oil will turn bone translucent. Oil will darken/change the appearance of wood.

Never use synthetic oil on irreplaceable scales like ivory or tortoise without testing first - there are many kinds of oil and not all have the same effect on a variety of materials.

ok, Thanks for a reply, that's good, the first ...... 'don't use'.... post had me questioning 'why'

Did you know? Phosphoric Acid will bleach the rust stains from bone it will also destroy bone if left too long, so one has to use the caveat:- "STAND there! For as long as it takes! Watch it!! Do NOT walk away!! , DO NOT let is soak any longer than is NECESSARY !!!!!!!!!! !! !"
I didn't tell you to use it, I also didn't just say Don't use it. Its your peril

A bone handled corn razor, rust bleached with Phosphoric Acid ..... you can tell it's me by the copper pin

Oil and timber/wood
THE number one for wooden tool handles is Boiled Linseed oil
then there be tung oil, no not made from tungs, and a myriad of wood finishing oils.
I have six of my own brew/blends of wood wax, one of which uses CRC, and one with orange oil.

One day I turned a mallet out of some real garbage garden variety pencil pine tree, it was green, you cant turn that garbage seasoned, so I threw it in Penrite 15W-50 USED car sump oil and left it for two months, best bleedin mallet ever. And it was not black at all.

I grant you, the darkening on some timber, but some may like that? I do not have any timber scales, totally dislike them. I have a bone yard, literally dead cows bones

All good in the hood for now