Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
In my view, if it shaves good and hones easily, it isn't damaged.
Possibly Bent Spine?
- Thread starter Devonmoonshire
- Start date
I apologize if my comment came out a bit harsh, I just think he missed an opportunity to learn how to match his skill to the razor instead of the razor to his skill. I've been there myself and bet most of use here have at one point in our journey.
Again I'm sorry if I offended you in any way.
Again I'm sorry if I offended you in any way.
- Thread starter
- #23
Oh no, no offense at all Mick, you just said what I was feeling the entire time I was working on it. The whole time I was cursing myself for not having a bench vice to make a valiant attempt at straightening the blade with the 3 pin method. I Will eventually get a bench vice, I just want to make sure I find one that has both surfaces on the gripping surface. Flat and rugged grip. That way I can pressure straighten the blade as well as securely grip wooden surfaces for etching on my brushes when I make them. I tried to straighten out the seating in the scales to no avail, the pivot pin is just too far off kilter for any kind of tweaking to work to straighten it out, my next step is to try the filing method and see if I can make any progress that way.
This is a really interesting thread as it progressed and finished while it walks the fine line of 2 different views With passionate defenders
- and never the twain shall meet.
- and never the twain shall meet.
It's always easier to speak after the fact, but from the first pictures, the spine did not seem bent from my understanding of things. Rather it seemed more of a scale issue. In such a case, exerting a bit of necessary pressure when closing the blade would have sufficed in the short run. A bent spine, if straight X-strokes have been used on a flat stone, tends to render increased bevel and spine wear towards the middle of the blade on one side and towards the heel and toe on the other. But all is not lost there. I've been almost exclusively shaving with such a razor, straight from the Solingen factory, for the past two-three months now.
Don't fret Mick, it's just a piece of steel. Now more so.
This pains me so so much! All that was needed was to apply a little opposite force to the scales while taping on the pin to center it. Instead you have done major damage to a blade that was in beautiful condition.
- Thread starter
- #27
This is abundantly True LOL However, that being said I am learning a great deal, even though I feel I have goofed on the execution the blade was not able to be used after the last time I honed it and now I used it flawlessly last night, so although the cure to the problem was extreme, it was also extremely effective at getting me to the end result I was looking for which was a functional razor.
This is very true and had the toe and heal not been completely flat with no edge at all I would not have taken this direction, I even used a rolling X approach and even that did not put anything on the heal or toe on opposite sides of the blade. I really wish I had a vice to apply the appropriate amount of pressure to straighten the blade. The seating in the scales did not bug me at all because as you said, it is just a matter of a litle pressure to one side to seat it in the scales until I can have it rescaled.
Don't fret Mick, it's just a piece of steel. Now more so.
LOL It may not be a collectors item to most anymore now, but it is certainly a very Fine Shaver at the end of the day
Okay good, after I read it a second time I kinda felt like it was a bit harsh and that I left out the all important part about not thinking the spine was bent made it even harsher sounding.
Here are some pics I took to show how to adjust the scales. It wont always work if indeed something else is going on. You open the razor (making sure there is nothing that is going to hit the blade) set the back side of the pin on a hard flat surface. Press on the scales just below the pivot point just enough to flex a bit, then tap the head of the pin with a small ball peen hammer or even use a heavy spoon. Give it a few good taps, check you progress and continue as needed.
And if it sat in the scales to the right you would do it this direction.
And if it sat in the scales to the right you would do it this direction.
- Thread starter
- #30
Here are some pics I took to show how to adjust the scales. It wont always work if indeed something else is going on. You open the razor (making sure there is nothing that is going to hit the blade) set the back side of the pin on a hard flat surface. Press on the scales just below the pivot point just enough to flex a bit, then tap the head of the pin with a small ball peen hammer or even use a heavy spoon. Give it a few good taps, check you progress and continue as needed.
And if it sat in the scales to the right you would do it this direction.
Thank you So Much Mick, This is exactly what I needed as I have been trying all sorts of stuff to try and straighten it out. I will give this a try tomorrow when I have some light outside to see. Hopefully that will straighten out the off kilter scales.
Be gentle and take your time. You just want to adjust it without making it too tight.
- Thread starter
- #32
Well that did not end well LMAO. Time to hit the woodshed and the table saw to make some new scales. Apparently there was an existing hairline crack in the scales at the pivot pin and that light tap with the spoon sent it over the stress edge so it fell off with the first hit. On the bright side though, the blade is now free of the scales so while I am making the new scales for it to match my shaving brush I can work on a full restore on the exposed metal and try to straighten it out at the same time, might be thinner overall at the end but at least it will be uniform along the spine instead of having that little divot above the heal. I am going to mask the etching though so that I do not ruin that while I am working on it.
Ultimately I think this is going to come out great after all.
Sincerely;
Nate
- Thread starter
- #33
I was thinking about this and I am really glad that I found that weakness while attempting a repair rather than while shaving with it, that could have ended catastrophically 
Oh no!!! Well I guess it was inevitable if it was on the first strike. Do you have what you need to make new ones? pins and washers ect...
- Thread starter
- #35
That is what I do not have, I am also looking for a small jeweler's anvil for setting the pins with a small ball peen hammer to go with it (at least I think that is how I should set the pins. I have never even come close to doing anything like this before so I am lost to be honest.) That way I have tools in case I run into this again or find that I enjoy making scales. The first thing though is to take the original scales and make a trace on the wood I intend to use for them so I can get started on making the actual scales for it. I glued the broken pieces back on so I can have the full size to trace but it is far too weak to hold the razor.
If you would like a set #0 washers and a small length of 1/16 brass pin stock I could mail you some. As far as an anvil any smooth flat steel will do, I now use the back of a large 1-1/4" socket.
- Thread starter
- #37
Thank you very much, that would be Great, I am going to check first at the Ace hardware down the road from my house though to see if I can find what I need to make this happen. They have a great selection of washers and O Rings and such. Hopefully they will also have some brass pinning material in the right size. I found what was making the blade move fore and aft as well in the scales, the hole in the tang is pretty big, I will measure it when I get home from work but I am thinking close to 1/8th in. I may just use a piece of coat hanger to secure it in place in the new scales once I get them cut, oiled and buffed out.
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
If the hole is big enough get some copper welding electrodes. Otherwise 1/16 brass rod, or nickel/silver. Hammer should not be over 2oz. I use a spoon. You want light sharp whacks, to deform a head on the pin, not big plodding strikes which will likely bend the pin. You can use a sledgehammer for an anvil. Don't use coat hanger it's just iron. Hardware store won't have size 0 washers. Microfasteners is a good source. Take Mick up on his offer and u are good to go. An acrylic clipboard will make scales. Or buy acrylic from TAP plastics like I do.
- Thread starter
- #39
Ooooh Welding electrodes. I have a feeling that the hole in the tang is big enough for one of those, but I will have to finish cleaning the rust up in and around it first so I can get a more accurate measurement for it. I am looking for wood right now to fabricate the scales out of. If I cannot find any grain patterns I like though I may just go with the acrylic clipboard idea though because I think I could make some decent ones out of one of those. Perhaps even cut 4 pieces and use two per side for a slightly thicker set of scales. You were right, I had no luck at the hardware store, but they did have some very similar sized brass nails and screws so I am going to keep those in my mind in the event I finish everything else up before I can get some shipped to me.
This is turning out to be a nightmare of a razor but the journey is turning out to be very educational for the future in the even I ever break or damage a razor I can fix it right back up.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
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