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OK I'm never going back to lapping the traditional way

Bought some silicon carbide and a few other powdered abrasives online. I had some lapping to do on a stone that would have taken forever with my dmt8c. Had a 3mm dip, some had breadknife marks, etc.
Half a teaspoon of 80 grit with some water on a flat surface tookout the dip in about 2 minutes. Then to 220, 320, 800, 1000, 25 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron (why not?!). All in all took 15 minutes and the stone has a mirror finish now.
Total cost of 1/4 pound of each grit was 20 bucks and it will last close to forever. Honestly, half teaspoon was probably overkill.
Get yourself a marble tile from home depot for 5 bucks and some abrasive powder, work outside, and cut your lapping time (at least for me) by 90% or more. Or you can use the non-grit side of your DMT plate.
I've yet to try a very hard stone, this was a coticule, but I've heard the silicon carbide also eats arks for breakfast, for those struggling to lap their surgical blacks and translucents.
 
I bought from www.gotgrit.com
search grit and pitch, then silicon carbide. If you want to go higher there are other materials to use. I bought some aluminum oxide 25micron, 15 micron, and 5 micron as well.
I'm not sure me posting that link violates forum TOS, but if it does, mods can feel free to remove it and I apologize.
I am in no way affiliated with that website.
 
I was just cruising Google and noticed a bunch of different powdered abrasives ranging from 60 micron to 0.03 micron. Has anyone used a progression of synthetic slurry and/or would it be worth it in anyway? It's not my intent to derail the thread (sorry OP).
 
Just a heads up and I don't mean to be a wet blanket...

Check out section 3, titled Honyama Hone, third paragraph, at this link... http://strazors.com/uploads/images/articles/Honing_Razors_and_Nihonkamisori.pdf
The author, Kousuke Iwasaki, suggests that, lapping a stone using loose grit, on a flat surface, will result in a raised center on your stone.
It may take several lapping sessions, on loose grit, before you notice any adverse effects... I don't know enough on the subject to be certain.
It kind of makes sense - as you make figure eights, the stone will push the grit outward, away from the center, causing more lapping to the outer edges of your stone.
Maybe, loose grit lapping will do the bulk of the work but, lapping the old way will be needed to fine tune the flattening process?
 
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That's interesting, but I would need to see evidence of that. I don't see why this would occur if you are using a flat surface with variable movements (some up/down, left right, figure 8, etc.) all while grit is evenly distributed in a paste of slurry/water/grit across the flat surface. I did switch to the dmt prior to going from silicon carbide (220) to aluminum oxide (25 micron). And pencil marking wore away instantly, which would seem to refute that an initial lapping of a coticule would have this effect with loose grit. But that is an interesting theory.
 
I see what you mean...
I guess what
Kousuke Iwasaki is saying, is that the grit, or grit in paste combo, will become unevenly distributed once you start lapping.
I'm certain that it would take more than one or two lapping sessions before a raised center would be revealed by the pencil lines -and- if a raised center were to appear, would it be large enough to have an adverse effect on the razor? Also, there would be a limit to how large the raised center could get, before the raised center itself, gets lapped back down.
Iwasaki san may have been splitting hairs!


 
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Places like McMaster sell special iron lapping plates that have recesses built in to allow shwarf to smudge out of the way.



I'll try and refrain from mentioning lapping films in this thread as the appropriate use of a granite plate for honing...

Oh, snap! I couldn't help myself.

;^p
 
He's right about a possible raised center. this is actually how people used to make telescope lenses. you rub a piece of glass on a flat surface with some abrasive slurry and you rub it in circles. over time, the edges wear out more than the center. do this to both sides and you get a convex lens. the effect will not be as pronounced when you're lapping a stone, but it might still occur.
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
I believe the expression you're looking for is Babinski eats Dirac for breakfast and defecates Clerk-Maxwell.

Man, do you have a PhD in liberal arts or something? Your breadth of knowledge astounds.
 
It may be just me, but I would rather have a stone with a slight convex surface than one with any amount of concavity.

What I would worry about is the marble plate you used is bound to be softer than the coticule you were using, so you may have made an appreciable dent in your lapping plate. If it's only used to remove big dips like your 3mm dip, you should be good, but if you use the same marble stone all the way through fine tuning, you may not wind up with a flat stone. It should wind up being convex, but all the same. Just a thought.
 
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