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O1 core San Mai Straight WIP. Razor number 2!

Ok Gents!
I'm hooked! This is worse than knives! lol!!
So, to get started, some of you saw my first razor I posted earlier this week, it will be getting a close inspection by a few of you, hopefully the knowledge I receive from the pass around, will help me make what I am looking for. (I hope, 'cause I am still not sure what that is, but I am getting closer!)

So after the first, I mentioned here the next might be a little something more... Well here is its beginning.

I made a billet a while ago that failed for its intended purpose, the core wasn't straight at the edge. I took a piece off the billet, consisting of 15N20 and 1084 on each side of an O1 core. I chose O1, for the core on this, because I believe it to be a superior steel, capable of a finer edge than some other options, and as tough or tougher than many.

So here begins my photo essay. Sorry for the poor cell phone pictures!

I selected a piece of the original billet...
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cut it in half...
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Then had to etch in FC to see if the core was straight at the center of the billet. This is both halves, side by side. You can see the core, it is darker in the center of each piece.
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Now to surface grind, and check pattern of the damascus. Because of the hollow grinding, I wanted to confirm the pattern was tight enough so it would look good.
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Next, I dyed the surface and drew the pattern, and ground the profile to shape. Then began the hollowing process. I don't have a round wheel, so I had to construct a round platten for the belt to run on. Necessity is the mother of invention! Here is a pic after the first few passes...
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So after two or three hours, I have this. The core proved to be straight, the pattern is dense, but not overly so. I jimpped the spine this time, top and bottom, you can see it in the bottom 2 pics...
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Next step is heat treating. Then final grinding and polishing. I still need to select scales, and decide if I will do a one piece handle construction, or use a wedge... Am thinking of useing some blue mammoth molar as a wedge. Maybe bison horn scales, or ivory...

Just from comments on my first razor, I left the spine a little higher, increased the size of the notch, adjusted the tail a wee bit, as well as tapered the tang so it is a little narrower. Also increased the hollow (tightened up the radius) some to be more true to a 1/4 hollow.

There are several ways I can finish this. 1, etched so the pattern is bright, and the core/edge is dark. 2, etched, but with a bright/mirror edge. 3, etched and buffed to a bright finish, so you can see the pattern in the back ground. It will patina over time a bit, or can be polished and kept bright...

Any thoughts?

Comments and critiques welcomed! Heck, I'm learning on the fly here!
 
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Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
I wish I could just trot out to the workshop and grind me out a razor like that! :lol:

It is harder or easier to make a razor vs. a knife? Or they equally challenging in their own way?
 
I don't know how to accurately answer that Kent. This is razor two... :biggrin1: What I can say, is its completely backwards from a knife! Kitchen knife has a convex grind, razor is hollow, both have a thin edge, but the razor is far thinner, far higher. A knife used for food, has to cut with as little effort as possible, and have the food fall away, or not stick to the blade. A razors only concern is thin, and able to hold maintain a very acute edge. I found today when going from a knife to a razor, I had to stop, let my mind shift gears, and approach the grinder again. I find even my stance, and position in front of the grinder changes from one to the other. I like making razors though, it is more finesse when grinding, and a lot less grinding to do. A razor is at best an inch high, and 4 inches of blade (give or take) where I have made knives with a 350 cutting edge (near 14 inches) finishing/polishing takes a long time!

So I guess yes, they have their own challenges. Similar, yet totally different. How did I do? :blush:
 

Kentos

B&B's Dr. Doolittle.
Staff member
I don't know how to accurately answer that Kent. This is razor two... :biggrin1: What I can say, is its completely backwards from a knife! Kitchen knife has a convex grind, razor is hollow, both have a thin edge, but the razor is far thinner, far higher. A knife used for food, has to cut with as little effort as possible, and have the food fall away, or not stick to the blade. A razors only concern is thin, and able to hold maintain a very acute edge. I found today when going from a knife to a razor, I had to stop, let my mind shift gears, and approach the grinder again. I find even my stance, and position in front of the grinder changes from one to the other. I like making razors though, it is more finesse when grinding, and a lot less grinding to do. A razor is at best an inch high, and 4 inches of blade (give or take) where I have made knives with a 350 cutting edge (near 14 inches) finishing/polishing takes a long time!

So I guess yes, they have their own challenges. Similar, yet totally different. How did I do? :blush:

You did good!
 
Ok Gents!
There are several ways I can finish this. 1, etched so the pattern is bright, and the core/edge is dark. 2, etched, but with a bright/mirror edge. 3, etched and buffed to a bright finish, so you can see the pattern in the back ground. It will patina over time a bit, or can be polished and kept bright...

Any thoughts?

Comments and critiques welcomed! Heck, I'm learning on the fly here!

All I can say is you are very skilled and as to your asking for opinions I would like to see the first option with the dark core/edge.

Very nice of you to show the step by step photos as well. Very captivating to say the least.
 
Very promising! I wanted to learn forging for a while now, but pics like these just make it even worse. That damascus with the inner core will look very nice, and will be functional too.
 
I wish I had the space/shop to be able to just try to do metal work like that :)

It's looking really good, congratulations.
 
Very very nice. I would like to see how it would look if the shoulderless grind was taken further back and tapered at an angle. Hard to describe. Like a Torrey shoulderless actually.
Found en ebay pic.......
Like this:
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Are you giving any thought to the geometry of the blade, specifically bevel angle, when grinding, or are you planning on straightening all that out when honing?
 
Yes of course, as to precisely what that angle is, other than the calculation of the relationship of height to spine thichness, I haven't put a number to it to express what the degree is.

At its current dimensions, total included angle is just under 14*
With one layer of elec tape on the spine prior to honeing, its a hair under 15*
And with two layers, the angle would be 15.75*

So newb question... Whats the prefered angle on a straight of say a 1/4 hollow of this size?
 
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