I will try refreshing the other razor in the case with .3 micron with a piece of paper on top of the built in hone.
New Improved 21st Century Rolls Razor!!
- Thread starter mjclark
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What's the paper for? I missed something.
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- Thread starter
- #83
Paper under the film has a bit of "give" and helps reduce the harshness of the super sharp edge, like using diamond spray with felt.
Ok gang, here's a stropping question. When I first started with the Rolls, I would strop it fairly slowly, at about the same speed as I honed even. I later read about stropping "briskly" for 30 seconds and the 4 way stropping technique (that takes a bit more than a minute). Both of thes require a much faster pace. I've ben using about 1 full back and forth stroke per second lately. How do you strop your Rolls?
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- #85
I strop in the case as fast as I can for a minute or less
Guys, I have a Rolls Traveler in very good condition. But I have a couple questions about it.
1. The hone stone is broken. I have both parts. Will honing it mess up the blade? Can I super glue the pieces together, or will that not work?
2. The second blade that came with it is rusted. Can that be removed, or should I just regale it to ancient status?
1. The hone stone is broken. I have both parts. Will honing it mess up the blade? Can I super glue the pieces together, or will that not work?
2. The second blade that came with it is rusted. Can that be removed, or should I just regale it to ancient status?
The blade can probably be cleaned up. A pic wouldn't hurt. In any case, both blades will probably need honed before use.
I saw an article about rebuilding broken stones. I think the author used epoxy and then flattened the stone. I'm pretty sure that if the stone is not smooth, it will trash the edge.
I saw an article about rebuilding broken stones. I think the author used epoxy and then flattened the stone. I'm pretty sure that if the stone is not smooth, it will trash the edge.
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- #88
Do not hone on the broken stone or it will screw up the blade good and proper.
Better to make a balsa etc substitute overlaid with lapping film or get another Rolls just for the hone.
As for the blade, it really depends...
...as gdgeorge said, pics will help.
I have cleaned up corroded blades but what matters most is the state of the edge.
I did hone the blade on the stone, but I used the part that wasn't broken. When I needed to hone the other side, I just flipped the blade and pushed it in the same direction.
I am sorry for the slightly off topic question but does anyone know a way to tell the differences between the nickel platted and stainless Rolls? Aluminium is easy to spot and the silver would be a bit tarnished ( or would over time ) but stainless and nickel ?
Has anyone replaced the Rolls Strop with a new piece of leather. The strop in mine has a hollow in it that keeps the blade from contacting the strop.
What type of leather would you recommend to do this?
What type of leather would you recommend to do this?
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- #92
Soft leather - I used the insole from an old pair of shoes, lapped it with 600 w/d and conditioned it with moisturiser
- Thread starter
- #93
Tried stropping on a homemade strop impregnated with some original Rolls strop paste which clearly has ferric oxide in it and some kind of leather conditioner as a medium.
I guess the feox is a coarser grade than the modern one we've been using, since the blade came out rather harsh.
It settled in quickly though, and I'm shocked at how sharp these blades are becoming as the edges refine with more honing and pasted stropping.
Virtual two pass BBS this time.
I guess the feox is a coarser grade than the modern one we've been using, since the blade came out rather harsh.
It settled in quickly though, and I'm shocked at how sharp these blades are becoming as the edges refine with more honing and pasted stropping.
Virtual two pass BBS this time.
Can anyone offer suggestions on where to get strop paste? And the film?
- Thread starter
- #95
This is the feox I use:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221466298753&alt=web
The seller is a nice guy and ships worldwide, but I guess a suitable grade (<0.3u) is also available in the US.
I get my film from ebay too, but I think others have more direct sources.
I got my film off of Amazon, from a vendor named "Fiber Optics for Sale" got my FeOx from eBay from Auroraessentials. I mix it with Fromms on the strop, using very little of each, and then work it into the leather. I add a bit more Fromms when I strat to see shiny places on the strop, and will add more FeOx when the addition of Fromms stops turning red. Hth.
Jerry
Jerry
My FeOx is 325 mesh pigment which is considerably coarser than .3u. It seems to work eeasonably well. I might try and get some finer but haven't seen it yet.
Another great shave off a different blade finished on .3 micron ( with paper and lather ) and stropped with FeOx . This is my winner until a good argument is put forth for something else.
- Thread starter
- #99
Superb! Getting the same results here
A really fine shave with the Rolls this morning after not shaving yesterday. I'm still using the original blade that I honed myself. After 10 or shaves, I honed it in the case, with the original hone, last week and it settled back in nicely after the first shave. All of my shaves with the Rolls since have been CCS or better. I'm looking farward to trying a blade honed by someone else for comparison.
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