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New Black Ark, now what

No, definitely clogged. Not sure if the slurry did it or not having oil did it. But the process of using a washita with slurry results in a clogged washita after a single razor.

My slurry was very heavy, using thinner slurry would likely reduce edge damage, but then it’s not speeding it up.

You’re probably avoiding some problems using oil for the slurry instead of water.
 
i’m still Trying to find a solution , here are my observations in search of ark midrange.

It’s very possible the stones I have will not work mid range, due to random mining variances. I have a soft/ coarse. That has Improved since I got it. But I think has some harder bits mixed in giving it a rough feel with razor. I’m going to try lapping and burnishing this one some more.

I have a new to me white ark , not washita, Sold as a “hard ark” rated @ 800 US ish. It is a bit friable but is promising I lapped one side coarser, Lapped other side finer and did some burnishing. This stone is easily takes edge to prefinisher stage. The coarse of this stone needs a bit more work. But have a feeling it will become lower midrange.

Vintage washita. This stone confused me when I first got one day it’s coarse one day it’s too fine, It is still is a bit confusing but I am finally coming to an understanding with this stone. It is a fast cutter and will raise a swarf quickly. It is faster than “hard ark” and yet just as fine. This stone may be the mid range finisher. It can be confusing because it is a faster cutter even possible bevel setter, But with light pressure feels like 8K ish And can produce a near shave-able edge. Which returns me to my original confusion about this stone, sometimes slow some times fast, I think depending on pressure, slurry/swarf, stone finish, technique...This could be the “one”

I think where Part of issue lies is looking to match stone specific grit rating. I am now coming to understand each stones overall fluidity. I am starting to believe It is a fools game pigeon hole an ark into a grit range
 
What you just described as confusing about your Washita , is exactly why they became popular as the greatest stone for woodworkers.
 
Well said Slice! Once you figure a washita out you will seek more out as they are very versatile and love to eat steel in a manageable way.
 
That’s classic Washita. The difference is all in the pressure and technique. Fastest Arkansas stone and easily into midrange/prefinisher.

There is variance among Washitas and how you prep the stone surface has a huge impact.

My progression left to right is coarse Washita, finer more burnished Washita, Dans black. I haven’t found a better combo, but running a Coti midrange is equivalent just slightly different finished results.

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Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
For those of you who are using Ballistol, what ratio of water do you use to mix it?

Water:Ballistol

4:1

Or, thereabouts.

Actually, I've tried all sorts of ratios from straight Ballistol to hugely diluted Ballistol. All seem to be fine (as far as I can tell). I also hone at the sink under running water for final finishing sometimes.

My basic mixture is 4:1.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
I just been using dawn and water/water. I would like to try ballistol but I can't find it locally. How about rem oil, I have plenty of that? Anyone using that? J-
 
I got my ballistol on line from the “big river”, Even if you hate it for honing (which I doubt you will) it will get used otherwise, turns out it’s great on firearms and pretty much anything you will ever lube....
 
I just been using dawn and water/water. I would like to try ballistol but I can't find it locally. How about rem oil, I have plenty of that? Anyone using that? J-

Ballistol is good on the thinner side and has the benefit of being white on a black stone background.

If I were you I’d go to any pharmacy and grab some mineral oil intended for laxative use and try it out to get a feel for the heavier oil options. Baby oil is basically thinner mineral oil with scent added too. Worst case you don’t like it and you’re out $4 but stocked on laxative for life.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Ballistol is good on the thinner side and has the benefit of being white on a black stone background.

If I were you I’d go to any pharmacy and grab some mineral oil intended for laxative use and try it out to get a feel for the heavier oil options. Baby oil is basically thinner mineral oil with scent added too. Worst case you don’t like it and you’re out $4 but stocked on laxative for life.

Good idea.

Personally I don't like the feel of the thick oils like mineral oil, but they still do a good job. The razors turn out fine with whatever I use regardless of whether I like the feel.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Generally you don't use mineral oil straight. You thin it with spirits, kero, etc to the consistency you like.

Yes.

I've used it all sorts of ways.

There are also proprietary mineral oils which are (I suppose) manufactured (refined?) so that their viscosity is thin. I've diluted it with various solvents, too, but I've also used the thick stuff at least once or twice.

My point is I think anything you like with this stone is likely to work for you.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Yeah I thin with the highest proof drinking alcohol about 50/50 so even if I somehow accidentally squirt it directly into my mouth I’ll just be accidentally partying.

Straight pharm mineral oil gets up to almost 70wt gear oil viscosity range depending where you shop.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Yeah I thin with the highest proof drinking alcohol about 50/50 so even if I somehow accidentally squirt it directly into my mouth I’ll just be accidentally partying.

Straight pharm mineral oil gets up to almost 70wt gear oil viscosity range depending where you shop.

I've read before of your marvelous mixture. As a non-drinker I could thin with a far less expensive alcohol.

The mineral oil I used was thick but not gear oil thick. Still, it was way too thick for my tastes (yet it worked and the edge was good).

I suspect straight grain alcohol would work well enough, too, particularly if rigged up to flow out of a faucet in the way water flows onto my stone when I'm honing at the sink under running water.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
An advantage of ballistol is that while the main lubricant is mineral oil, it also contains a surfactant that allows it to mix with water. So dilution is cheap and easy. Also it all washes off with water.

I think surfactant is the right word.
 
emulsifier would be more applicable to do what you describe... but I'm not familiar with ballistol, it's most likely to be a surfactant from a technical standpoint.

Emulsifier allows things that are immiscible (water and oil) to mix homogenously. Surfactants reduce surface tension of a liquid to allowing it to accept other material (which could be a liquid it is immiscible with, allowing it to act as an emulsifier).
 
I see the comments on WD-40 being fish oil by some (and have heard many times in the past) but it is not true according to them.

Copied from this page below:
Fun WD-40 Facts - Read WD-40 Myths, Legends and More!

>>>>>>
Myth: WD-40® contains fish oil.

Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40®. We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so.

WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40® can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40® to attract fish.
 
I use food grade mineral oil from Walmart. Works great and is inexpensive. You can also use it on strops or oiling your razors.
 
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