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That lather is too thick lol.

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That lather is too thick lol.

Thinking about it, that bowl of porridge doesn't look a million miles away from my tub of Proraso Red.

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It had been sitting by the sink with the lid off for six days, but by this time it had hardended up like a puck of solid soap. I could shake it out of the tub like a mud brick. I made a test lather in my palm the night before last and it seemed to work ok but I'll find out for sure tonight when I use it for a shave. I still don't like the way the soap has changed consistency though, this clearly isn't what Proraso had in mind. From now on, I'll just leave the lid off soap for the few hours between shaving and going to bed. That should be plenty of time for any excess water to evaporate without over drying the soap.

I have my doubts about whether airing a soap out removes the chemicals used to perfume it, in any case. What about the area, deep in the centre of the puck? I also have my doubts about perfume being the issue for me. When I made the test lather I smeared a bit on the inside of my forearm again, just to be certain. I left it on for 5 or 10 minutes and just wiped it off with a dry towel after, without rinsing. Nothing happened, just as I expected. When I use all of my soaps for shaving, none of them have ever irritated the skin on my neck and that is always the area I shave last. I suspect the skin above and below my lips is just particularly sensitive and slowly getting used to being exfoliated (during lathering) and shaved.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I think leaving soaps exposed to the air does make the scent milder. It worked with the Tabac I had.

I do just the opposite. I screw the lids back on right after I finish loading to keep that extra water in the tub. Most of my soaps are considerably harder than Proraso though.

I never had a hard time loading Proraso soaps. They loaded quick and easy for me. It was just a matter of getting the right amount of water in after.
 
Shave 22

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Made in England Tech
New Perma-Sharp
Semogue 1438
Proraso Red

I went for a full on face lather tonight. The Proraso loaded the same as normal, nice and easy, so the hardening doesn't appear to have had any negative effects. The scent seems exactly the same strength as before to my nose.

First pass, wtg and I nearly caught my right ear lobe first stroke again. I'll watch out for that. Right side of my face was fine, no tugging but the soap could've been slicker. The front edge of my chin, the blade could've been a touch smoother. Left ear, first stroke, then the second, then the third and fourth all very, very smooth and easy, perhaps the blade had settled down by now. I had to relather my neck and when I picked the brush up it didn't exactly look full of lather, the bristles splayed in small clumps, the whole knot open. I lathered with what I had and finished the pass, the direct ATG strokes at the top of my neck so smooth I couldn't even feel them.

Pass 2, I dipped the tips and immeditaley knew this wasn't going to work, it was like trying to lather with dust. I dunked the brush in the sink, shook out the water, loaded like fury for ten seconds and had what was a very slick feeling lather after just a few seconds face lathering. Right ear, XTG. The first stroke was glassy-smooth, as was each subsequent stroke right side, but the lather felt just a little thick and cloggy around my chin. Plenty of cushion but not quite enough slickness. Every XTG stroke was very comfortable though, no tugginess or pulling anywhere as I shaved the left side of my face, relathered my neck again and finished off. When I rinsed my face I felt a bit of stinging at the top of my left side jaw but saw no blood when I checked in the mirror. I towelled off, splashed my face with cold water and a dried off, patting my face with real vigour. It felt great.

There were a few red spots on my upper lip and the front of my chin but no feeling of irritation, aside from the slight itchiness caued by the soap which, as usual, had gone by the time I left the bathroom. The redness quickly went, leaving me with a nice post shave feel overall, my skin neither dry or overly tight feeling. The shea butter in the Proraso red does seem to have good moisturising properties. This is without a doubt my closest shave yet, especially my neck and lower jawline. I have a few stray hairs on the left side of my adams apple but no bother. Smooth during the shave, with great cutting efficiency to boot, the Perma-Sharp has top blade potential.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Perma-Sharp Supers are sharp. They're also very smooth to me and last a long time.

Eventually I'll remember to add some to a Connaught order...
 
I do just the opposite. I screw the lids back on right after I finish loading to keep that extra water in the tub. Most of my soaps are considerably harder than Proraso though.

I used to put the lid on my soap after shaving and put it in the cupboard and still sometimes do. But I read this on shave dash a while ago and it's niggled me ever since:


Caties Bubbles Shaving Soaps



Fabulous fragrances and foam are the hallmark of these French style soft soaps inspired by the Martin de Candre range. Handcrafted with high quality ingredients that are completely vegetable and fruit-based.

The hygroscopic nature of glycerin and the soap salts mean that this is a thirsty soap. It has the capacity to absorb large amounts of water as you create your lather. It also means it should be dried completely after each use to ensure longevity and texture. "

-

I still don't know if makes a huge difference. Yaqi say that a brush shouldn't be left to dry on its base but I always do and I know many others do this also. I even used to put my brush back in the cupboard right after shaving but I now leave it on the sink overnight.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
PdP is my hardest soap, its quad milled. Because it's so hard I started closing the lid on it wet, tightly. After a couple weeks of doing that I noticed it was getting easier to load, and easier again as time went on, so I started doing that with all of my soaps. Its like the soap absorbs the water and softens leading to easier loading.

I dont like standing there loading, loading, loading and then loading some more only to start face lathering and find out I need to go back and load more again lol.

When I started with PdP, I think I had to make 100 revolutions around the puck with my synthetic and 200-300 with my Omega boar, to get enough loaded for a lather. Now I'm down to about 30. The only soaps I need to load for more than 15 seconds are new ones and only then because they havent softened up enough.

Getting a soap where you want it, is trial and error.
 
Perma-Sharp Supers are sharp.

That they are. And super. I've just had another check in the mirror whilst refilling a glass of water and now, around an hour after shaving, my face feels even closer, and very well moisturised. @Chan Eil Whiskers Jim's been talking about the hysteresis effect a lot lately and I notice it after every shave now, especially on my lower lip where I have to shave wtg. Straight after shaving when my face is still wet it feels very stubbly if I curl my lip back and stretch it, but an hour or more later, if stroke my lower lip with my forefinger in it's normal, relaxed position, it feels much smoother.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
That they are. And super. I've just had another check in the mirror whilst refilling a glass of water and now, around an hour after shaving, my face feels even closer, and very well moisturised. @Chan Eil Whiskers Jim's been talking about the hysteresis effect a lot lately and I notice it after every shave now, especially on my lower lip where I have to shave wtg. Straight after shaving when my face is still wet it feels very stubbly if I curl my lip back and stretch it, but an hour or more later, if stroke my lower lip with my forefinger in it's normal, relaxed position, it feels much smoother.

Chasing a pre hysteresis effect very smooth shave is counter productive (and overdoing things) for me. Gets me in trouble.

Not saying that applies to everyone else of course.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Straight after shaving when my face is still wet it feels very stubbly if I curl my lip back and stretch it, but an hour or more later, if stroke my lower lip with my forefinger in it's normal, relaxed position, it feels much smoother.

Maybe the hairs are swelled from absorbing water and as time goes by, they dry out, become smaller and recede below the level of the skin.

I notice that after every shave. Thats how I know that if I'm BBS right after a shave with my face still wet I'll have a very nice BBS in 20-30 minutes.
 
Shave 23


Made in England Tech
Perma-Sharp (2)
Semogue 1438
Cella

Tonights shave did not go well. Here's what happened.


The Lather

In an effort to get enough lather for more than one pass I loaded for longer than usual. A lot longer, 2 minutes, maybe more and I don't know how many swirls but in the hundreds. I got going in the bowl, dipped once and then started face lathering. It seemed a little thin, even after all that, but as I continued it thickened up. I added water slowly, careful not to break it. It felt a bit too thick and pasty the whole way through, until it suddenly looked in danger of going the other way, the brush beginning to feel and look like it was going to run out of soap, so I stopped. It took a long time, I'm not sure how long but it must've been well over 5 minutes and my lips were already starting to tingle.

1st pass

WTG, first stroke and the razor didn't seem to glide, there was nowhere near enough slickness. My efforts had not been rewarded, it felt like I was shaving with chalk, lol. I finished the right side and chin and the lather on my upper lip already looked dry and it seemed to be dissipating on my neck. I shaved it off anyway and it felt pretty rough. The left side of my face was a little easier, getting worse the closer I got to my chin. I dabbed a finger on my neck, it seemed ok, then I noticed that I'd used a wet finger. I dried it off, checked again and the lather was dry. I relathered, added a little water and it thinned out considerably. It was maybe a little slicker than my face, but not comfortable to shave really, the only slippery area right at the base of my neck where I slide the skin over my adams apple with a finger, exactly where I didn't need it. I rinsed off, the corner of my mouth, right side already stinging.

2nd pass

I squeezed what little lather there was from the brush and lathered up, dipping once. It looked incredibly thin but when I wiped my finger on my left cheek, the slickness didn't seem too bad. No guts, no glory so first stroke, XTG right ear and I was very gentle, using light pressure. I could hear the blade scraping and towards my far right jaw it started to skip and bounce a bit. As I reached my right corner jaw it became clear that I was now trying to drag a dry razor over dry skin. If I continued like this I was asking for real trouble, so I dunked the brush twice, shook it out, loaded for 10 or 15 seconds (like I normally do), whipped the brush across my palm a few times and it felt good to go. I lathered my face again, it felt a lot slicker but by now my chin centre, left and right were all burning, as well as my lips and a little along my jaw line too. The brush was still clumping slightly, even the softest painting strokes feeling super scratchy. Back to right ear, XTG again, not much feedback as expected, but the right side of my face was sore by now. The right side jaw, direct XTG was not easy tonight, no slickness again, and not smooth at all across the front of my chin. The left side of my face was more of the same, the upper lip not so bad. The lather on my neck looked way too thin again but a dab with a dry finger indicated that it was still wet enough. The left side of my neck was ok, the right side not so much, the chalky feeling back again. I shaved mostly WTG around my adams apple and stopped.

I picked my brush up again and just out of curiosity squeezed out the remaining lather. There was a fair amount so I smeared it over my face, and whipped the brush over it a few times, but the bristles were already clumping, the soap mostly either dissipated or disappeared into the brush. It might've served for another pass if I'd wanted to but my face was starting to burn now and I wondered what the hell I was doing, I wasn't going to shave anymore anyway, so I rinsed it off, my face stinging, and patted dry. A quick glance and it didn't look so bad initially. I rinsed off with cold water and dried off.

My face was burning moderately, all over and as I cleaned up I could see a lot of redness upper lip and chin, some on the left and right cheeks as well. No nicks or cuts, but I'd have preferred that to the burning probably. There was itching too, from the fragrance of the Cella I'm sure, but also from the lack of slickness and maybe the excessive lathering pitching in with a bit of brush burn just for good measure.

I've just checked in the mirror again, about 1 hour later and the redness has gone, along with most of the irritation, a little soreness at the corners of my mouth and jaw when I open my mouth wide to stretch the skin, and my face is still slightly warm but not too bad now. I have a small sore spot about a quarter inch below my left lip, feels like a micro weeper. Whatever it is, some skin definitely went missing.
 
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Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
The only change from last shave was the soap, hmmm.

Not sure what to say Wes but on the bright side, it can only get better?
 
The only change from last shave was the soap, hmmm.

Not sure what to say Wes but on the bright side, it can only get better?

Yeah, that's the way I see it too. On reflection it wasn't as bad as it sounded, especially compared to what some guys here have to battle with. I read about people having to hold off shaving for days at a time because of razor burn or allergic reactions to soap. My face felt fine last night after an hour or so, and I could've shaved again this morning if I'd wanted. If that's as bad as it gets I count myself lucky. Most of my shaves are very good. I'm getting pickier as I get better.

I've never been able to get on with Cella or Rasozero from the first shave, mainly because something in them doesn't agree with my skin. I should probably just put them to one side and move on but the Scottish in me won't let that happen, lol. And now that I've been getting a little trouble lathering with them, it just seems like an added challenge, part of me really wants to figure them out. I'm not sure why, because I have no intention of re-buying either of them. I guess I see it as practice. I used nothing but Proraso for months which was great for learning how to use it properly and to build lathers in general, but it might have made it a bit trickier to make the adjustment when moving to a different soap. I also have no doubt that some soaps and creams will simply be better for me than others, same as blades and razors. Do I need mildly scented soaps, harder soaps, creams, do I need to avoid certain fragrances or ingredients? Finding out is all part of the fun for me. Looked at in those terms, yesterdays shave and others like it have there own special value.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
When anyone is learning, nothing is more valuable than experience. You're taking it the right way.

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I've not used Cella but if it gave me a challenge I'd want to learn it too so you're not alone.
 
Shave 24


Made in England Tech
Perma-Sharp (3)
Semogue 1438
Rasozero


Last night it occurred to me that the problems I've been having lately mostly started when I made the switch to hot water shaving. A look back over my shaves confirmed my suspicions, so it was time to return to the cold.

I also noticed that my lathering issues appeared when I started leaving my soaps out to dry for longer periods after shaving. Earlier today, I ran a little cold tap water over the top of each soap, poured it off and put the lids back on.

Tonights shave.

I soaked my brush in cold water for a couple of minutes, gave it 2 or 3 shakes and loaded for 15 or 20 seconds. It felt much better. I started the lather in my small bowl, for no more than a further 20 seconds, added no water, wet my face with my left hand and got face lathering. It only took about a minute or so and 3 dips of the very tips of the brush before it looked ready. My lips were itching slightly.

First pass, wtg, right ear. This is more like it. I focused on following my growth pattern, the right side of my face done in next to no time, a little more resistence at my right corner jaw but no tugging. The front edge of my chin could have been smoother, a little more slickness would have been welcome but it wasn't too bad at all. The left side of my face was straight forward as was my upper lip. The lather looked to be thinning out a bit on my neck but I was in a groove so I shaved anyway, no problems. I rinsed off, noticing only very mild irritation from the soap. A surprise, because this soap has been without a doubt the worst of the bunch.

Pass 2, I simply painted the lather on and it was very, very thin but felt ok. First stroke, XTG, right ear and the familiar second pass slickness was back. Easy all the way, the front of my chin, upper lip right side and right side jawline all done in under a minute. The left side was a repeat, the lather holding out but I felt something on a stroke by the lower left corner of my mouth, a sore spot from last shave most likely. The lather on my neck had dried so I whipped the brush across it and finshed off, no difficulties anywhere, not even on the direct ATG section at the top of my neck. As I rinsed off in the sink, the left corner upper jaw stung a little. I patted dry and a quick glace showed no irritation. My face felt good. A splash of fresh cold water and I towelled off, finished.

No redness at all, not even the few spots I usually see on my upper lip and no post shave irritation either. There was a small nick by my lower left lip which I hadn't seen earlier and one or two very small areas of dryness but other than that nothing. My face had that freshly shaved feeling but no residual irritation from the soap. I put a dab of vaseline on the nick and a couple more on the small dry spots. I probably sacrificed closeness a bit by using cold water but I'm not concerned about that, the closeness will come. Hot water may be better at softening whiskers but cold water is much better for my skin (which I already knew) and I much prefer the way it feels on my face, especially whilst lathering and in between passes.

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Shave 25

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Made in England Tech
Gillette Wilkinson Sword
Semogue 1438
Proraso White

The only change from the last shave was the blade and the soap, everything else stayed the same. The result was almost the same.

The lather came out great and with very little effort. First pass, WTG and the first stroke was lovely. This is a great blade, very smooth, as smooth as a 7.00 green, maybe smoother. I'd finished the right side of my face before I knew it, a dollop of lather landing on my chest as I happily shaved my chin with long, easy strokes. Left side, moustache, neck and done. Simple. I rinsed off and as I felt around with my hands I probably could've gotten closer far right and left jawlines.

Pass 2, I painted the lather on and the right side of my face, XTG was glassy smooth for every stroke. Turning the razor to horizontal for the direct E-W across the front of my chin was a delight, the front edge posing no difficulty whatsoever. Left side the same, the jawline much easier than usual, as it was with the right side. The neck - the neck, second pass, XTG was quite simply the highlight of the shave. It didn't even feel like there was a blade in the razor and I used buffing strokes on the direct ATG area at the top of my neck with almost wreckless abandon. I rinsed and dried before splashing my face with very cold water from the tap. Wowwweee, it was icy cold tonight. Splendid.

Checking in the mirror I saw not even a hint of redness anywhere, no nicks or cuts and absolutely no post shave irritation. My skin just feels cool and moisturised, none of that freshly shaved feeling tonight. I said before that the Perma-Sharp has top blade potential. Well, this Gillette Wilkie is my best blade so far, as smooth as a 7.00 green but sharper. Of course, I was using my favourite soap. I've heard some complain about the slickness of Proraso, especially the white but I've managed to get it down to a tee. I have, for the first time, a near DFS on my lower left and right jawline, DFS everywhere else and very, very close to BBS right and left cheeks and especially my far right jaw, below the ear, where some of the strokes were most likely ATG.

A fantastic shave. Let's hear ya' John!

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Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Like I said, when you use your best blades, you'll know on the first shave.

The right blade will make or break a shave. This is why I always tell people searching for blades to try as many different blades as they can. Narrow them all down to a top five and a top three and use those blades every shave while testing other razors. You may find one or two blades stand above the others, even if only slightly. Then, buy bulk.

One great shave makes all the trouble getting there worth it.
 
Shave 26

Made in England Tech
GWS (2)
Semogue 1438
Proraso Red


This lather was an almost exact replica of the last one with Proraso white. Could this be the start of a bit of consistency? First pass, WTG and this blade felt even better on second use. Maybe I was just super confident with it. There was only the mildest irritation from the soap on my upper lip, just near the nostrils, nowhere else. Cold water shaving just seems to bring benefit after benefit, the lather dripping onto the edge of the sink as I shaved the front edge of my chin. The rest of the pass went entirely without issue and felt much closer than last time out as felt around, rinsing off.

I lathered up again, thin and slippery with pleny of soap left in the brush. Pass 2, XTG. The first stroke, slightly hesitant, was followed by three or four long, positive ones, the soap as slick and protective as I'd predicted, trickling down my chest as I shaved the front edge of my chin. No tugging at all as I shaved the far right jawline and right side, upper lip. Left side was a repeat but slightly swifter, the left ear to right armpit strokes perfect for a right hander. Though thinned out dangerously, the lather on my neck was still probably shaveable according to a finger dab, but I whipped the brush across it a few times just to be on the safe side and shaved my neck with complete assurance. I noticed a smear of lather sitting on my right side, upper lip and the same mild irritation under my nose as the first pass but otherwise there was no distraction from the soap tonight. I rinsed off, patted dry, pulled the plug, splashed my face with cold water and towelled off.

No post shave irritation, no nicks, weepers or sore spots and no redness. No dryness either, just that lovely, lingering aroma from the Proraso red. DFS everywhere except my adams apple and one small area on each side of my lower jawline.

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