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I always end up where I need to be, eventually, but when it comes to a method...
View attachment 1044961
I always end up where I need to be, eventually, but when it comes to a method...
View attachment 1044961
If you had to eat soap, menthol might be your best choice.
I didnt think there was any menthol in Proraso White.
Maggard also has an inexpensive international shipping option, to Canada at least.
The "Drag Theory".
"After discovering in his test lab that shavers could not tell the difference in blade sharpness, he was responsible for break-thru research that determined that blade sharpness was not a critical factor in receiving a good shave; rather a reduction in drag by hair clinging to the blade causing pulling was needed. This Drag Theory lead to the development of coated razor blades and specifically the Organosiloxane Gel coated Super Blue Blade (1959)."
"it is believed that the reduced pull in shaving results mainly from a shearing of the organosilicon-containing polymer during cutting. The total force required to cut hair involves at least two components. One is the force needed to push the ultimate cutting edge through the hair, and the other is the force needed to overcome the friction caused by the pinching and adhesion of partially severed hair on the flanks of the wedge-shaped cutting edge. The latter is believed to be the major component of the total force required to sever the hair. For example, in the case of an axe cutting into the side of a tree, the pinching friction on the flanks of the cutting edge becomes so great that the axe stops before it penetrates far into the Wood. Heretofore, many efforts to improve shaving have been directed to perfecting the cutting edge and to softening the hairs to be cut. Shaving soaps and creams, until applied long enough to soften the heard by wetting it, have little effect in reducing the total force needed to sever hair. The present invention is believed to reduce that force in a novel manner by interposing between the blade and the hair a material which adheres firmly to the flanks of the cutting edge throughout the shaving, but easily shears either within itself or at its interface with the hair. "
A perfectly scientific explanation of how and why a blade should, and/or may not, slip easily through the hairs composition as it encounters the resistance from it.
This is why I've always said, if you feel tugging, try a different blade. Sharpness is secondary to matching the blades coatings to ones hair type and composition.
If a blade tugs, I dont believe its because its "dull". I believe the blade coatings to be incompatible with the hair type its trying to cut.
Thats also why I believe Derby Extra blades work so well for me. They're a perfect match for my hair type. I just used one last shave and I'm still amazed how smooth, close and comfortable that shave was.
Thanks to those above and all others not mentioned who have helped me with this question.
The section below my chin, where north meets south is in theory the most complicated area to shave. It's trickier the nearer it gets to my ears.
I've found that 'line' along my jawline, especially my left side, is progressively easier to BBS as blade exposure increases.
That explains why my left and right jawline and just below is usually not as close as everywhere else. I'll try a steeper angle next shave.
This was my draw to razors with more blade exposure. The more blade exposure a razor has, the more efficient it can be, the less strokes it takes to reach a BBS finish. The less time a blade is on my skin the better.
I'm eventually aiming for a 2 pass shave that satisfies me, with as little trouble and as little shaving as possible. Reflecting on yesterdays effort, while I know my growth pattern well enough to shave WTG with precision, providing I'm patient enough, my XTG passes are nowhere near as accurate. A true east to west or west to east stroke isn't precisely XTG anywhere on my face, other than centre of my chin. I should really be shaving on more of an angle, anything from 10 to 45 degrees off the horizontal. I'll get it with practice.
There really isnt much compromise built into a Fatip. If you make mistakes you pay. If you take the time to find the right angle/pressure combination, combined with the right blade, the rewards are very good. The learning curve isnt very big, but it demands a much finer technique than a Tech.
That's why I'm working my way up to it slowly. I'm looking forward to it but I don't want to rush in too early in case a difficult shave puts me off, simply because I wasn't quite ready.
If you've used a few different DE razors you understand the differences between them. If you havent you dont and you'll tend to use them all the same way. Thats a mistake because they are all different.