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My Search For Smooth

I always end up where I need to be, eventually, but when it comes to a method...

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Shave 12

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Made in England Tech
Shark Super Stainless (1)
Semogue 1438
Proraso white

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The Shark was the blade I used for my first DE shave. I hated it straight away and for each of the 7 shaves that followed. I'd always planned to give it another chance but I've not exactly been looking forward to it, morbid curiosity aside.

I'm still using hot water and I'm back to shaving bare chested. I've come to the conclusion that fully clothed shaving is for the cameras and besides, I wanted to get a nice runny lather to give the blade every chance of success. Things got off to a good start. The brush absorbed the hot water beautifully during the minute or two that it soaked and was lovely and heavy with water. I let it drain and shook it thoroughly before loading. The soap was pasty but got deep into the brush with little effort. I dipped twice as I started the lather off in my small bowl and after almost a minute moved on to face lathering. This brush is breaking in properly now, starting to get really soft and after the first dip the soap had that great slick feeling. I dipped another 4 or 5 times as I slid the brush around my face, swirling and painting for a good 2 or 3 minutes. I cleaned of my lips and got on with it.

I swished the razor in the hot water and first pass, right ear, wtg, shallow angle and pressure. I was expecting another tug fest but ended up finishing the right side of my face before I knew it. Under my lower lip, no tugging, perhaps not as effortless as a hot knife through butter but on the right side of smooth. The razor moved over the front edge of my chin easily, I'd lucked out with the lather tonight, it was dripping down the handle of my razor. I rinsed my fingers quickly and carried on to the left side of my face with both the handle and my hand wet but with no slipping, the stroke accompanied by a high pitched whine as the blade chattered next to my left ear. No discomfort at all and I was starting to smile as I proceeded to shave my neck. Some of the lather must have crept into the corner of my mouth and as I finished the pass and rinsed off I could feel the menthol tingling on the gum around my upper left canine. It wasn't entirely unpleaseant. If you had to eat soap, menthol might be your best choice.

The second pass went without a hitch, the lather was lovely and slick and I could hardly believe that the blade was producing such a smooth shave. I was using pressure, but not a lot and I wasn't paying too much attention to angle. It was just one of those easy shaves, reminiscent of my first shave with the Tech, when I'd partnered it with a Gillette 7 O'Clock green. The lather stayed wet on my neck right to the end and I was able to over shave on the north meets south section, some atg strokes, with what appeared to be ample slickness. As I rinsed off I was surprised to get a little stinging at my upper jaw, just left of the corner of my mouth. I patted dry and checked in the mirror but couldn't see anything so I splashed my face with cold water and towelled off.

There was no post shave irritation at all. No nicks or weepers either, but it could have been closer in general and especially beneath my lower lip. I'd used pressure there on both passes too, so I still don't think this is the sharpest blade out there. All in all it was very good shave, surprisingly so considering I'd used what I'd deemed to be my nemesis.

Maybe not quite the heavenly smooth shave I'm ultimately searching for but one thing is clear. With the aid of the Tech it looks like I've managed to tame the Shark, for now at least.

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Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
If you had to eat soap, menthol might be your best choice.

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I didnt think there was any menthol in Proraso White.

If you like menthol, pick up a few Stirling samples sometime. They arent expensive and they last a long time. Frozen Tundra is a fav of mine.

Stirling Soap Co Frozen Tundra Shaving Soap, 5.8oz | Maggard Razors Traditional Wet Shaving Products - https://www.maggardrazors.com/product/stirling-soap-co-frozen-tundra-shaving-soap-5-8oz/

Maggard also has an inexpensive international shipping option, to Canada at least.
 
I didnt think there was any menthol in Proraso White.

It's in there but not super strong.

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(third line down)

It feels stronger on the gums, lol.

Maggard also has an inexpensive international shipping option, to Canada at least.

Yeah, pretty reasonable to the UK as well, I think about 6 US dollars when I last checked. I'll get some samples from them in the new year, Stirling and maybe a few others. I'll make sure Frozen Tundra's among them.
 
Shave 13

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Made in England Tech
Gillette 7 O'Clock Green (4)
Semogue 1438
Proraso Red

The last shave was one of those effotless occasions where everything just comes out right from start to finish. This shave wasn't.

The lather was a bit airy and light for some reason but I'm not sure why. The brush was well soaked beforehand, I shook it well before loading and loaded heavy. Adding water as I face lathered just seemed to make it worse and before I'd even got started it looked like it was dissipating. It was very bubbly.

First pass, wtg right ear. Not the smoothest stroke but no discomfort. All the way for the right side of my face the razor felt like it was clinging to my skin slightly. It definitely wasn't gliding. The lower lip and chin was marginally better with no tugging at all. The upper lip felt a bit sticky, the left side of my face, much the same as the right. The lather on my neck was starting to disappear quickly now, so I shaved it quick and rinsed off. It seemed an acceptably close shave so far.

The brush looked fairly empty but I tried to work with what was there anyway. No good. It had completely gone from my right face by the time I moved to the left. I dipped the tips of the brush and loaded from the tub again, face lathering in about 20 or 30 seconds; it felt very slick this time.

Second pass, XTG this time and I tried to be careful with the pressure. To careful, as it tuned out.

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Right ear to nose felt smooth and easy, directly north to south over the edge of my right jawline. I changed direction and shaved left to right from the centre of my front jaw to the edge. These were noisy strokes, not tugging exactly but I could feel the blade trying to grab at the hairs. I was being far too tentative. The upper lip in the same direction, from the centre towards my right ear, felt awkward. I simply don't have the muscle memory yet. I mirrored this to finish the front part of my face, shaving in the direction of my left ear, the soap starting to irritate my skin by this point, adding an unwanted distraction. The frustration was building. Left side, ear to nose felt much more natural and comfortable, the neck as well, outside to inside left side, as far as my windpipe, then I switched over to the right. The soap was feeling dry, so I relathered the central trunk of my neck before finishing, pulling my skin as I feebly attempted to get at the stubble around my adams apple. I finally gave up. The cold water rinse felt very good. I patted my face dry and had a look in the mirror.

First of all, no blood and no major burn. There was a rough patch at the front left of my chin and most of the lower lip I'd liked to have been closer. I couldn't feel much irritation besides the normal mild reaction to the soap, which had completely gone before I left the bathroom. I could see a touch of redness upper left lip, maybe the face of my chin when I opened my mouth wide to stretch the skin, but not much. My skin felt slightly tight but not dry at all.

It's closer than my normal 2 wtg passes, but not dramatically so. The neck is much closer and either side of my face, just above the jawline, it's close to BBS, where my growth pattern means that the XTG strokes were more likely ATG. Not a bad shave altogether. No razor burn and only very mild, short lived post shave irritation. I just need practice and to use more confident strokes, much as I do when shaving WTG. The development of muscle memory should help with that.

Onwards and upwards.
 
Last edited:

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Shave with confidence! Shaving tentatively, in my experience, leads to a less than close shave and excessive tugging.

Muscle memory takes time to build, but you'll get there. A year from now you'll be wondering what all the fuss was about.
 
In my first post for this journal I asked the question as to whether a sharper razor blade, providing it was in the right razor and the users technique was up to it, would always be smoother? The short answer is no.

These are the long answers.

The "Drag Theory".

"After discovering in his test lab that shavers could not tell the difference in blade sharpness, he was responsible for break-thru research that determined that blade sharpness was not a critical factor in receiving a good shave; rather a reduction in drag by hair clinging to the blade causing pulling was needed. This Drag Theory lead to the development of coated razor blades and specifically the Organosiloxane Gel coated Super Blue Blade (1959)."

"it is believed that the reduced pull in shaving results mainly from a shearing of the organosilicon-containing polymer during cutting. The total force required to cut hair involves at least two components. One is the force needed to push the ultimate cutting edge through the hair, and the other is the force needed to overcome the friction caused by the pinching and adhesion of partially severed hair on the flanks of the wedge-shaped cutting edge. The latter is believed to be the major component of the total force required to sever the hair. For example, in the case of an axe cutting into the side of a tree, the pinching friction on the flanks of the cutting edge becomes so great that the axe stops before it penetrates far into the Wood. Heretofore, many efforts to improve shaving have been directed to perfecting the cutting edge and to softening the hairs to be cut. Shaving soaps and creams, until applied long enough to soften the heard by wetting it, have little effect in reducing the total force needed to sever hair. The present invention is believed to reduce that force in a novel manner by interposing between the blade and the hair a material which adheres firmly to the flanks of the cutting edge throughout the shaving, but easily shears either within itself or at its interface with the hair. "

A perfectly scientific explanation of how and why a blade should, and/or may not, slip easily through the hairs composition as it encounters the resistance from it.

This is why I've always said, if you feel tugging, try a different blade. Sharpness is secondary to matching the blades coatings to ones hair type and composition.

If a blade tugs, I dont believe its because its "dull". I believe the blade coatings to be incompatible with the hair type its trying to cut.

Thats also why I believe Derby Extra blades work so well for me. They're a perfect match for my hair type. I just used one last shave and I'm still amazed how smooth, close and comfortable that shave was.

Thanks to those above and all others not mentioned who have helped me with this question.
 
Assuming that the answer above is correct, and I have no reason to doubt it, the only way to find out which blades work for me is to try them. This is good news, because trying different razor blades is fun. Inexpensive too. This also means I can spend more time working on my technique and understanding the geometry of my face.

This is a reasonably accurate illustration of my growth pattern. I expect making it and looking at it should help me understand my face better.

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The section below my chin, where north meets south is in theory the most complicated area to shave. It's trickier the nearer it gets to my ears.

The way that the hair meets like two rising tides, as illustrated here, make it all but impossible to shave strictly with the grain. Some direct ATG shaving is inevitable. It hasn't proved to be a huge problem so far.

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The area below my lower lip is the most uncomfortable part of my face to shave. The sections with the red squares indicate the most sensitive skin on my face, the black ovals the toughest stubble to cut.

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If tugging occurs, it will always be in at least either of these two places, often both.

When I can find a razor, blade and soap combination that enables me to shave these difficult sections with ease then I will have found the right products for me. I'm already making ground here. The variable that is my technique will obviously play a part, but I predict a time when my tecnique will be something I can rely on.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Thanks to those above and all others not mentioned who have helped me with this question.

Now to test it. It is the BOSC way. :tongue_sm


The section below my chin, where north meets south is in theory the most complicated area to shave. It's trickier the nearer it gets to my ears.

Your map is similar to mine in that area. I've found that 'line' along my jawline, especially my left side, is progressively easier to BBS as blade exposure increases. My R41 with a fresh Feather does my left side very well. My MMOC does it just as well but more easily and more comfortably. My Grande is a bit of a compromise there. It takes more buffing but it gets there just as well in the end.

I typically shave my left side jawline with a steep angle.
 
I've found that 'line' along my jawline, especially my left side, is progressively easier to BBS as blade exposure increases.

That explains why my left and right jawline and just below is usually not as close as everywhere else. I'll try a steeper angle next shave.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
That explains why my left and right jawline and just below is usually not as close as everywhere else. I'll try a steeper angle next shave.

The two swirl growth patterns on my neck use to be my hardest area to shave. Once I understood rigidity and put it into practice, along with finding the right angle, they became easy to BBS.

My most difficult spot is about a 4" long strip a 1/2" wide just under my left side jawbone. I need to skin stretch tight and buff in three directions there. 45° up and down and then again straight towards my chin, all with a steep angle to use as much blade as I can.

The more blade exposure a razor has and the steeper the angle I can use, the less buffing I need to do.
 
Shave 14

Made in England Tech
Gillette 7 O'Clock Green (5)
Semogue 1438
Proraso White


I got off to a very good start tonight. I loaded moderate to heavy and the lather came out great; slick and well hydrated. I spent about 3 or 4 minutes sliding it around my face as I added water before getting on with the first pass.

WTG, right ear and I used pressure. A lot. Part of my plan was to get as close as possible in preparation for the XTG pass. The other part was to see how far I could push it. With a shallow angle I went from right sideburn to the centre of my chin in no more than 30 seconds. The lower lip and chin I did in long strokes, from lip edge to chin edge. No tugging anywhere. The left side was the same, the curious high pitched blade chatter in my ear again and this time I remembered to steepen the angle as I went over the far left jawline. I shaved my moustache and then my neck which, being south to north means I always have to press the razor against my skin quite firmly. I rinsed off and had a feel around with my hands. It seemed close enough with no major missed areas and no irritation at this stage. I lathered up again.

Pass 2, XTG right ear to nose. I aimed for gentle pressure this time and the right side of my face was easy, done in 10 seconds or less. I changed the angle to about 45 degress, going from right ear to left shoulder for my far right jawline. I decided to keep the same direction, ear to nose, to the centre of my chin. This was physically more awkward and the strokes were scratchy. As I approached the centre of my chin and sensitive lower lip it started to get slightly painful. I was expecting post shave irritation. Right upper lip, ear to nose again but this time I angled the strokes downwards slightly, around 8 O'clock. Very comfortable. Left side, ear to nose and all above the jaw was straightforward, the left chin and lower lip as tricky and painful as the right, the left upper lip as easy. I relathered my neck to be on the safe side, worrying about the post shave by this time. Left side, outside to inside, not very smooth at all but not painful like the face of my chin. Right side neck, edge to windpipe and it was better this time, the centre of my neck remarkably simple, even with the skin sliding for the adams apple. I rinsed off and patted my face dry. A glance in the mirror didn't indicate too much of a disaster. I splashed my face with cold water and towelled off.

The raging post shave irritation I was expecting never arrived. My skin was a little warm at the top of my neck below my chin and there was a touch of redness upper left lip, the face of my chin and either side of my windpipe. I ended up with a tiny nick on my lower lip, left side. It was so small I almost didn't see it. I've just had another check in the mirror and my skin looks fine now, though my upper neck still feels slightly warmer than normal. The right side of my face above the jawline and my upper lip are somewhere between DFS and BBS. My neck is closer than usual but still well off DFS and the entire face of my chin, from lip to lower edge, is not as close as I can get it with 2 WTG passes. I'm fairly sure the problems I had on the second pass were due to the first pass not being close enough in that area. I'll work on it next shave.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Try less pressure and more buffing. Its a different road to the same place while being easier on the skin.

A typical 3 pass shave for me is, first pass N>S with long strokes and no buffing to take down the growth. Second pass S>N again with long strokes and no buffing for the majority of that pass. I'll buff the sides of my mouth, chin and directly under my chin straight S>N ATG. My third pass and any clean ups all done directly ATG with a lot of buffing.

I use the most pressure on my first pass N>S which is WTG to my jawline and XTG from there lower. The more directly I shave ATG the less pressure I use and the more buffing I do.

This was my draw to razors with more blade exposure. The more blade exposure a razor has, the more efficient it can be, the less strokes it takes to reach a BBS finish. The less time a blade is on my skin the better.

I rarely do a full three pass shave though. My 'normal' shave lately has been one pass N>S, no buffing. Second pass directly ATG buffing. The time between that shave and a shave directly ATG first pass is about the same but because I took the majority off with the N>S pass, I do less buffing second pass.

I'll be doing that shave today with my Canadian Tech and a fresh Derby Extra. I expect a fantastic shave.
 
This was my draw to razors with more blade exposure. The more blade exposure a razor has, the more efficient it can be, the less strokes it takes to reach a BBS finish. The less time a blade is on my skin the better.

That makes a lot of sense, even in my temporarily, slightly foggy mental state. (I've just gotten back from visiting my eldest Brother and indulging in a couple of pints of strong, cloudy Norfolk IPA :yikes:).

I'm eventually aiming for a 2 pass shave that satisfies me, with as little trouble and as little shaving as possible. Reflecting on yesterdays effort, while I know my growth pattern well enough to shave WTG with precision, providing I'm patient enough, my XTG passes are nowhere near as accurate. A true east to west or west to east stroke isn't precisely XTG anywhere on my face, other than centre of my chin. I should really be shaving on more of an angle, anything from 10 to 45 degrees off the horizontal. I'll get it with practice.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I'm eventually aiming for a 2 pass shave that satisfies me, with as little trouble and as little shaving as possible. Reflecting on yesterdays effort, while I know my growth pattern well enough to shave WTG with precision, providing I'm patient enough, my XTG passes are nowhere near as accurate. A true east to west or west to east stroke isn't precisely XTG anywhere on my face, other than centre of my chin. I should really be shaving on more of an angle, anything from 10 to 45 degrees off the horizontal. I'll get it with practice.

Once I became use to using razors with generous blade exposure, those with little blade exposure became frustrating. The window of operating angle is very small, especially with a Tech. Basically, if you dont feel the blade it wont cut so I use them at a neutral angle with the least amount of pressure I can. If I vary from that angle while keeping the same amount of pressure, it wont cut. Frustrating.

A Fatip OC will teach you the proper angle in far less time because if you mess it up you'll bleed, or best case, have irritation. I also had Nuns in school so there might be a similarity there lol.

There really isnt much compromise built into a Fatip. If you make mistakes you pay. If you take the time to find the right angle/pressure combination, combined with the right blade, the rewards are very good. The learning curve isnt very big, but it demands a much finer technique than a Tech.
 
Shave 15

Made in England Tech
Gillette 7.00 Green (6)
Semogue 1438
Proraso Red

A quick christmas shave. 2 passes, WTG.

The lather came out great, first pass was smooth and easy. No issues anywhere. I used a slightly stepper angle on my lower lip and chin, I was more careful and took a bit more time, too. I finshed the pass and rinsed off with no irritation from the soap.

Second pass and there was not as much lather in the brush as I expected. I lathered with what was there anyway. It was thin, so I added a bit more water. It made it even thinner but slicker at the same time. The pass was quick and easy again, very light pressure and the face of my chin, wtg, had no feel, resistance or noise. Testament to the closer first pass in that area. I had to relather my neck, no problem, and I finished, rinsed off and splashed with cold water.

For the first time I got through the entire shave without the sandalwood fragrance in the Proraso red irritating my skin. I shaved faster the normal without rushing. Post shave was completely irritation free, no redness, nicks or weepers. The closeness is almost equal to the last shave everywhere, the front of my chin and lower lip, much closer. More comfortable too. I'm still loving the post shave, Proraso red sandalwood smell.
 
There really isnt much compromise built into a Fatip. If you make mistakes you pay. If you take the time to find the right angle/pressure combination, combined with the right blade, the rewards are very good. The learning curve isnt very big, but it demands a much finer technique than a Tech.

That's why I'm working my way up to it slowly. I'm looking forward to it but I don't want to rush in too early in case a difficult shave puts me off, simply because I wasn't quite ready. Of course, at some point you just have to take the plunge.

cdive.jpg


There's a Fatip OC in my future, of that I'm almost certain.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
That's why I'm working my way up to it slowly. I'm looking forward to it but I don't want to rush in too early in case a difficult shave puts me off, simply because I wasn't quite ready.

Thats exactly how I felt, anxious. I read all the horror stories, saw how much blade exposure they have and was worried about it. I fretted over it quite a while before ordering one. Then, I used it.

The biggest hurdle you'll face is changing from a Tech to a Fatip. If you use the same technique with a Fatip as you are your Tech, you're in for a rough road. If you've used a few different DE razors you understand the differences between them. If you havent you dont and you'll tend to use them all the same way. Thats a mistake because they are all different.

If the only car you've even driven is a Rover and you get in a Ferrari 458 for a test lap, you very well might crash if you dont adapt your driving style.

I have a feeling you're pretty confident in using DE's so I really dont see anything to worry about. I know, easy for me to say haha.
 
If you've used a few different DE razors you understand the differences between them. If you havent you dont and you'll tend to use them all the same way. Thats a mistake because they are all different.

This is that thing about there being no real substitute for experience. In it's absence I tend to spend a lot of time on preparation and research, until I get to the stage when there's simply no more to be done, other than the inevitable.
 
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