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My Search For Smooth

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
there's simply no more to be done, other than the inevitable.


:thumbsup: Good luck my friend. Enjoy and remember a light touch and just shave.

Wise words above. Dont overthink it, just do it.

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Shave 16

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Made in England Tech
Gillette 7.00 Green (7)
Semogue 1438
Rasozero Spiffero

This soap has been aired out for a week now so it's time to give it a try. I'm not looking forward to it much, the strong, unpleasant smell hasn't declined. I am curious though.

Lathering wasn't easy. I loaded heavy with a well shaken brush, dipped once as I got it started in the bowl and started face lathering. It looked quite thin and dry, one more dip of the brush and it immediately began to dissipate. I looked at the brush. No lather in it at all. I dunked the brush in the sink and loaded from the tub again. Straight back on the face, no more water added and I left it at that. My lower lip was already itchy and irritated. The smell, which I can't really describe, is not nice, at least to my nose. There is zero menthol, no Proraso like eucalyptus, no mint, just an industrial cleaner fragrance. I guess it's still called a fragrance.

First pass WTG and I shaved quickly. This was starting to feel like a mistake. There was not much slickness and as I shaved my chin I contemplated leaving it at one pass, the irritation was intensifying. The left side of my face was slightly better, my neck straight forward enough but at no point was this enjoyable and I was hurrying. I rinsed off very thoroughly and weighed up the irritation levels. I lathered up again.

It was beyond thin and the brush was bone dry and empty once more. I dipped it and loaded (for the third time) very heavy; I'm not worried about making this soap last. I face lathered again, a thickish paste that actually felt quite slick. The irritation levels were stable, tolerable, just, and I started right ear, wtg again, trying for a shallow angle and minimal pressure. This second pass was a little better but the fragrance was still overpoweringly unpleasant. I shaved very fast again but without major problems. The direct ATG section at the top of my neck wasn't as smooth as usual, the soap definitely lacking in slickness. As I rinsed off I noticed an oily film on the water, like the kind you get on lamb gravy as it cools on your plate following a Sunday roast. I don't think I've seen this with Proraso or Cella. I'll look out for it next time. I splashed my face with cold water and towelled off.

My face felt.....surprisingly good. No post shave irritation. At all, visible or otherwise. My skin wasn't dry and the smell that lingered on my skin was bearable. Now, 30 minutes or so later my skin feels great. It seems that one or, possibly a few different things are happening. Either the airing out of soaps that cause irritation is effective; or the Semogue brush, which is still breaking in and is much softer than my Omega boar, is kinder on my skin; or my shaving technique, and especially the smoother shaves from the Tech are producing less irritating shaves; or, maybe my skin is just getting used to being shaved more and having different types of soap slathered over it. I have changed my routine slightly and I now shave every 2 days. My skin is probably liking the regularity. The rest of me normally does.

No nicks or weepers and yes, it could have been closer but all in all, a half decent shave. Used no more frequently than once a week, I may well be able to get through this tub of soap after all. (Maybe)
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Load heavy and lather like a paste, you did that right. What you didnt do was dip the tips of the brush and pick up a little water at a time and work that in. Once you start doing that you'll dial in your lather a lot quicker and easier.

My 'lather' isnt a lather when I first start, it's more like drywall compound lol. It only becomes a lather after I dip the tips at least once and sometimes twice while working that extra water into it.
 
Load heavy and lather like a paste, you did that right. What you didnt do was dip the tips of the brush and pick up a little water at a time and work that in. Once you start doing that you'll dial in your lather a lot quicker and easier.

My 'lather' isnt a lather when I first start, it's more like drywall compound lol. It only becomes a lather after I dip the tips at least once and sometimes twice while working that extra water into it.

I suspect I probably started out with a slightly too wet brush. My first lather tonight was very foamy and light as I loaded from the tub. That happened last time I used Cella too. I'll maybe try a gentle squeeze of the knot next time I use either of those two soaps. Proraso needs quite a lot of water and I've used it for the vast majority of my shaves and while I can get good lathers with it consistently, I haven't got used to adjusting for different soaps yet. In fact, I even find that Proraso Red needs a slightly different quantity of water to the White.

Do you squeeze or shake your synthetic brush before loading?
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Synthetic brushes hold a lot of water. The fiber bristles hang on to it and it doesnt flow out along them very well. Too much water is a typical problem with synthetics I think.

All of my soaps and creams are thirsty. The more water I give them the more lather I get and the slicker that lather is. Proraso is the same idea but I have broken lathers with Proraso soaps from to much water. This is what you experienced, a broken lather.

My synthetic, from dry: I dip the tips, maybe the first 1/4" or so into hot water picking up just enough water so the bristles slide over the soap while loading. When you're loading you'll feel the bristles stop slipping on the soap and start dragging. Thats when my brush goes to my wet face and I start building the lather dipping the tips as necessary to pick up more water a little at a time. Then working that water into the lather until it's where I want it.

Once you get used to it you'll learn how much water you need and how long to load. Then its just a matter of how wet your face needs to be to get the perfect lather every time. Being winter, my furnace is running and even that small difference in humidity becomes a huge difference in the hydration of my lather. I can feel that if I lather between passes and add more water as I shave.

When in doubt load your brush longer. Its easy to add more water, but difficult to take it away.
 
Shave 17

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Made in England Tech
Astra SP (5)
Semogue 1438
Proraso white

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Tonights shave was all about the grain. That meant following the growth pattern of my facial hair as accurately as possible.

I made a slight change to my lathering process too. After loading, instead of getting the lather started in the small bowl I use to soak my brush, I used the palm of my hand. I noticed an immediate advantage. I could literally feel the quality of the lather in my hand and I was surprised to find that I needed to dip the tips of my brush 3 times before it felt ready. I spread the lather from my left hand all over my stubble and then face lathered gently, using more painting strokes than swirls and adding a bit more water.

First pass, wtg and the right side of my face took a little longer than normal as I continually adjusted the angle of the strokes to follow my beard growth, taking my time. I completed the right side of my chin as well before I needed to rinse the razor. The left side of my face, moustache and neck were all plain sailing. Not a single tug or pull anywhere. I rinsed off my face and as I felt around with my hands I knew I had been rewarded for my care and patience with my closest, most even first pass yet.

On to pass 2, XTG. Directly XTG as precisely as I could manage, the first strokes were from my right ear to left armpit, turning towards my left hip along my far right jawline and towards the top of my left shoulder as I neared my chin. The strokes across the centre of my chin were directly E-W and I left my sensitive lower lip till later. The right side of my upper lip was right ear to left armpit again, and N-S over my philtrum. The left side mirrored the right, I shave N-S (wtg) directly below my lower lip and N-S far jawline left and right, turning towards the same side shoulder as I neared each ear. I relathered my neck, then left shoulder to right ear for the left of my windpipe and the reverse for the right side. I shaved directly W-E below my adams apple, whilst the area between the top of my adams apple and the lowest part of my chin has to be more or less up or down. There simply isn't enough room for any razor head to fit flat against my skin horizontally but I can just about manage an off straight angle. I rinsed off, splashed my face with cold water and towelled dry.

At no point during the second pass did I feel any tugging, painful strokes or scratchiness. There was a touch of post shave redness and some barely there irritation but no blood and I was left with what is pretty damn close to a DFS. Now, 20 or 30 minutes after shaving, my skin feels completely normal and this is probably my best shave so far, even with the barely there irritation. I've had a similar feeling before after using an Astra SP, a kind of freshly shaved feeling but mid shave it's just as smooth as a 7 O'Clock green and shaves a bit closer. A nice shave.
 
Shave 18

Made in England Tech
Astra SP (6)
Semogue 1438
Proraso Red

For this shave I tried to replicate the previous one, substituting Proraso Red for White. I almost pulled it off.

I lathered the same as before, a palm/face hybrid. It wasn't quite as good as with the White but not bad, pretty good in fact, so I added a touch more water just to be sure of the slickness.

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Buffoon. I broke it. Damn!

No matter, I went back to the tub, got more soap, added it in and the lather was good and slick, so NO MORE WATER.

First pass, WTG and first stroke, second and with all of the lather drama I'd forgotten about following my growth pattern. I noticed just in time and the rest of the first pass went fine. Not super smooth but ok. No tugging or pulling. As I finished my neck I glanced in the mirror and realised I'd forgotten my moustache. The lather was a little dry as I shaved it but no major irritation from the soap (yet.) I rinsed off.

Seond pass, XTG, right ear to left armpit, shoulder, left hip, right hip and right arm pit as required. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. The left side was a replica but my face was getting a little itchy round the lips by this time. I relathered my neck, remembering to stretch slightly and the left shoulder to right ear strokes and vice versa were simple to do. Very nice. Windpipe, adams apple and above, with the direct ATG area, were not as faffy as normal. My upper and lower lip were quite itchy by now. I rinsed off, patted dry and the cold water splash felt very, very good. I towelled off.

I had a touch of redness, upper lip but nothing else. If the last shave left me with barely there irritation, tonight it was more of an 'Are you there?' level. If the question was asked, it must've been, but it was really pretty mild, and only immediately following the shave. The customary itchiness from the soap was the worst of it and as usual, that had gone by the time I left the bathroom. The finish is comparable to before, which is to say borderline DFS everywhere, other than my cheeks, both left side and right, which are borderline BBS. Onwards and upwards.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Proraso can break pretty easily. Get it just right and its a pretty good soap though.
 
Shave 19

Made In England Tech
Shark SS (2)
Semogue 1438
Cella

A drama free shave tonight. I've fallen into the routine of using a different soap for each shave, even though three of the four make my face itch, lol. Actually, mixing it up seems to be having a positive effect, the irritation becoming less noticeable with each use. Something good seems to be happening, though I can't say what. I managed to get a better lather with Cella this time too, loading heavy and spending quite a long time face lathering, maybe 5 minutes. I added a lot of water, even when it looked like it might break, but I was careful to go slowly. I think the other lathers broke when I added water way to fast.

2 passes, wtg first pass and around my chin I noticed the difference between this blade and the Astra. It may not be the horror it was in the 34C but it is neither as smooth, nor as good at cutting my hair as the other blades I've tried so far, excepting the Merkur SS.

Second pass, XTG and the lather was very thin indeed, so I went carefully. I wasn't as precise in observing the grain on the right side of my chin as I could've been and at my left ear, first stroke, I realised there was no way this lather was going to last out the shave. I loaded from the tub again, dipped the tips once more and finished off with out issue.

The Cella caused only very mild irritation, not bothering me at all untill I was loading from the tub during the second pass. The post shave irritation was mild but more intense than last time and I had a bit of redness upper lip, all passing within about 10 minutes of leaving the bathroom. It's either the soap, blade or my technique. My money would be on the soap so it's probably one of the others. Borderline DFS everywhere, even on and around my adams apple.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Are you sensitive to deodorants or fragrances?

You can test that by rubbing a bit of whatever into the inside of your forearm and letting it sit for a minute before rinsing it off.
 
You can test that by rubbing a bit of whatever into the inside of your forearm and letting it sit for a minute before rinsing it off.

Yeah, I have tried that and got nothing. The funny thing is, on the label on the bottom of the Rasozero it says discontinue use if irritation occurs. Daft when you think about it. There could be a million reasons for irritation when it come to wet shaving but I'm the kind of person that reads everything and then takes it all literally. Of course the truth is, it might be the soap, but then it might not. I also don't get irritation all over my face, just upper and lower lip. The lower lip is also the most sensitive part of my face when it comes to shaving. I have a sneaky suspicion it may be technique. The irritation is very mild, some probably wouldn't notice it. I also get it mostly after lathering for the second pass. I have had it on my upper and lower lip after lathering for the first pass too, before a razor goes anywhere near my face. But I have considered that that could be brush burn. I've had it far less since using the Seomgue. My Omega has backbone like a real, er, backbone! It... is... stiff.

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Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
My Omega boar took six solid months of every other day use before it started to break in. Once it did stat, the tips started turning snow white when soaked.

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The white tips are just as soft as my synthetic. The rest of the knot however has far more backbone than I've come to appreciate. I dont need that much scrub.

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The difference between my Omega and Semogue never fails to amaze me, even just the appearance.

Omega left, Semogue right.

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The Semogue even has a smaller diameter knot, but you'd never guess, looking at the picture. I might use the Omega at some point in the future, but the Semogue is so much nicer to use, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense not to use it.
 
I was contemplating my soap problem today, during an afternoon walk on a beautiful, crisp, sunny, mid-winter day, last nights rain giving the earth that hard to describe winter smell. It's not much of a problem, all things considered, none of the soaps are intolerable, much like the Shark blade and I expect I'll end up finishing each of them. Eventually, I'll find the soap, or most likely soaps, that I really like, how they perform and affect my skin being the decisive factors. Scent is secondary, as long as I don't hate it (looking at you, Rasozero Spiffero). Of course a scent that I really like, combined with performance would be ideal.

Back to the current soap 'problem'. I really do think that my skin is learning to tolerate the different chemicals and products in the soap the more frequently I use them. I went for nearly ten years with a full beard, no shaving at all and during much of that time I never put anything other than water on my face, using shampoo on my beard for only the last year or so. I still only wash my face with water, cold normally. Shaving was a real shock for my skin after such a long lay off but I'm now getting to the stage where my skin has never felt better, every shave is enjoyable in it's own way and the results are getting better and better also.

I'm convinced that my skin is becoming conditioned. Perhaps it's the walk, or my observations of nature making me particularly optimistic today. The simple beauty of the natural world certainly affects me a lot these days, it's gradually become a passion really. Today, four gold finches landed in a tree no more than 8 or 10 feet from me, perching in an almost perfect diamond formation, sitting there even as I eventually turned and walked on. Then, later this afternoon, in a very happy coincedence, I read this excerpt from the diaries of the Finnish composer, Sibelius:

Todat at ten to eleven I saw 16 swans. One of my greatest experiences! Lord God, What beauty! They circled over me for a long time. Disappeared into the solar haze like a gleaming solar ribbon. Their call the same woodwind type as that of cranes. The swan-call closer to the trumpet...A low refrain reminiscent of a small child crying. Nature mysticism and life's Angst! The Fifth Symphony's final theme: Legato in the trumpets!!'
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I'm convinced that my skin is becoming conditioned.

I believe there is something to that. I've always shaved with either cartridge or electric and when I switched to DE, two blades made me itch, Bic Chrome Platinum and Shark Super Chrome. I think that itchiness was because I wasnt use to using a DE and my skin wasnt use to be shaved so closely. I've used them both again months later and had no itching.
 
Shave 20

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Made in England Tech
Gillette 7 O'Clock Yellow (1)
Semogue 1438
Rasozero Spiffero

I did ten mintues of yoga and ten minutes of meditation right before shaving. I say yoga, it's really just 10 simple stretches to me. Some people probably call it yoga. As for the meditation, less this...

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more this...

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I'm neither a surfer, nor a bank robber, but my reasons for meditating have nothing to do with religion, coventional spirituality or a monk-like world view. They are entirely personal. Did it have any effect on tonights shave? I doubt it, but who knows. I did feel relaxed.

My last shaves with both the 7 O'Clock yellow and the Perma-Sharp were a little rough, so I ditched both blades.

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While they're nicely marinating in the king of beers, onto the shave.

I loaded heavy, dipped the brush twice at the palm stage, twice more while face lathering and got going with a fresh 7 O'Clock yellow. WTG, the first stroke was not smooth and I nearly caught my ear lobe. The rest of the right side of my face wasn't much better, but no tugging. I inspected the lather in the mirror and it had very little body. I carried on and it felt as if I was shaving my chin and the left side of my face with no lubrication at all. I stopped again and looked at my neck. The lather was dissipating, I dabbed a finger in it and it was bone dry. When I picked the brush up it had no lather in it either so I went back to the tub, relathered my neck and finished.

Pass 2, back to the tub for another heavy load and I added no water this time. The lather was thick and pasty looking but felt much slicker than before. First stroke, XTG, right ear and I immediately thought of the phrase 'a game of 2 halves'. Very smooth everywhere, the direct E-W strokes on the front of my chin very easy. The left side of my face was a repeat but my face was starting to feel a little irritated from the soap. (I assume) I relathered my neck again, and finished the shave without issue. With the right soap, this blade would probably be very good, but my initial impression is that it is not as smooth as either the 7 O'clock green or the Astra. I rinsed off, patted my face dry and looked in the mirror. I'd somehow missed a thumbnail sized area lower left jaw so I scooped a little soap of the brush. It resembled Matey bubble bath more than shaving cream as I wiped it on my chin before shaving it off. I splashed my face with fresh cold water and towelled off.

Checking in the mirror I saw no redness and the biggest surprise of all; no post shave irritation. Like, none at all. Nada. Not even barely there. The wierd thing is, is that the shave itself was pretty rough feeling. Now I'm kind of looking forward to using this soap again to see if I can figure out how to get a better lather from it, even though I hate the smell and it definitely irritates my skin, no matter how mildly. Maybe I'm becoming a masochist. Then again, maybe not. I've just stroked my chin and lower lip with my cupped right hand. The post shave is gooood.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Not even barely there. The wierd thing is, is that the shave itself was pretty rough feeling.


That can be a bit of a handicap with razors that offer little blade exposure. Your angle of use is limited by design geometry. Try some Yellows again when you have a Fatip. At the right angle the blade disappears.
 
Shave 21

Made in England Tech
Gillette 7.00 Yellow (2)
Semogue 1438
Proraso White

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The lather for tonights shave was just right. Not too thin, not too thick, not too dry and not too wet. And it took very little effort to get it. This is happening more often than not now, with Proraso White. It's no mystery. It's the soap I've used for the vast majority of my shaves and it likes me as much as I like it. Most importantly, I understand it's little quirks, what I can get away with during the shave and how to get the best from it, generally. Much the same is starting to happen with the Tech.

First pass, WTG, no tugging anywhere, a much smoother feeling pass than last shave (the soap, I'm certain) but as I rinsed off, my neck was not very well shaved at all. Oh, well, onto pass number two.

Second pass, XTG, and this is becoming a habit now, the muscle memory developing nicely. I completed the whole of my right side face, upper lip and right side jawline on one side of the razor in no more than a minute. I swished the razor in the sink and the left side went the same way. The direct E-W, W-E strokes on the front of my chin were very easy. I relathered my neck whether it needed it or not, hoping to improve on the first pass. Mechanically, this felt very good too, though the area around the adams apple will continue to require a lot of practice and a little patience. I retouched a small area in the hollow at the top of my left side neck and rinsed off.

After the cold water splash and drying off I had a quick check in the mirror. No initial redness, even on my upper lip which happened the first few times I shaved XTG there. No blood and no post shave irritation, but my face definitely feels shaved. For some reason I still can't seem to get quite as close with this blade. My neck aside, which just didn't come out right for some reason, the difference in closeness is marginal though, and my expectations are almost certainly rising again, so my judgement may not be accurate. I've just stroked my face now, maybe 45 minutes later and the post shave face feel, especially above the jawline, is actually pretty good.
 
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