My Omega Pro 49 knot fell off
- Thread starter Vincentchou
- Start date
Epoxy.
Truthfully, I don't know anything about brush restoration. You may want to visit the Brush Restoration / Tutorial Threads
www.badgerandblade.com
I'm sure you'll find some good advice there.
That said, unless you have a strong attachment to the brush or don't want to invest in a new handle, I would take this as an opportunity to move the knot to another handle. From what I understand about the process of changing brush handles, the most difficult part (removing the knot cleanly) has already been accomplished for you. Good luck with the repair.
Brush Restoration / Tutorial Threads
Looking around this forum, I see several brush restoration threads and have listed a few below. WIKI Link: http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/restoring_shaving_brushes RESTORATION THREADS Imperial Butterscotch restoration-...
www.badgerandblade.com
I'm sure you'll find some good advice there.
That said, unless you have a strong attachment to the brush or don't want to invest in a new handle, I would take this as an opportunity to move the knot to another handle. From what I understand about the process of changing brush handles, the most difficult part (removing the knot cleanly) has already been accomplished for you. Good luck with the repair.
Dang, that is really clean. I wonder if it was ever glued in in the first place!
Marine epoxy. I wish mine would fall out. Would love to put that knot in a wood/resin or marble handle.
It is clean, isn’t it. Yeah epoxy, unless you want to take it out later then you could use silicone.
- Thread starter
- #7
Dear gents,
I cannot appreciate your advice enough.
I hope I can find Marine Epoxy in Taiwan.
Besides, I am also wondering if this knot had ever been glued.
Could any other gents specify this?
The knot fell off at my 4th pass.
I always squeeze the knot for the lather for my last pass.
I cannot appreciate your advice enough.
I hope I can find Marine Epoxy in Taiwan.
Besides, I am also wondering if this knot had ever been glued.
Could any other gents specify this?
The knot fell off at my 4th pass.
I always squeeze the knot for the lather for my last pass.
That's not glued in, it's supposed to slide in and out, so just push it back in its place.
+2! Sorry! Marine epoxy is your best bet IMO.
I am a recovering boat owner. I bristle at products that have the word "marine" in front of them because it will cost three times as much as a similar-looking product and I wonder if it's exactly the same thing.
I agree that the knot was probably not glued in. What I'd do is make sure everything's clean and dry, then rough-up the socket with sandpaper, and apply a small amount of epoxy (marine, if you can get it, otherwise, don't stress) to the bottom of the socket. Insert the knot snugly and give it a few twists to make sure the epoxy's well spread around. Then let it sit overnight to completely cure.
The key to success with epoxy, CA, etc. is: "less is more." That might seem counter-intuitive, but when dealing with non-porous materials, the adhesive manufacturers I've spoken with are unanimous on that point. (Besides, you don't want glue getting into the knot fibers
.)Good luck--and enjoy the brush!
This right here. The black plastic is pressed into the handle. I have restored a few brushes using Omega knots. The handles are hollow. I drill a hole in the bottom of the handle and the knot just pushes out with a center punch.
Try pressing it back in. If it does not hold, then the handle may have a small crack that causes it to expand. This would cause the knot to fall out. You could use a tiny amount of glue, but beware it may come out of the top. You can't glue or epoxy like a regular handle as the Omega handle is hollow. You would have to apply it to the inner opening of the handle.
Here is a link to the thread where I used an Omega knot.
Fuller restoration part 2. Now with Boar and a Made Rite
A few months back I restored a vintage Fuller brush with a TGN badger knot. As mentioned in me thread, I was undecided if I should go badger or boar. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/472707-Fuller-restoration?highlight=fuller+restoration Well I still had the temptation and luckily...
www.badgerandblade.com
And a few pictures of the knot removal from the thread. Hopefully someone has a suggestion.
What if you filled the hollow handle to add some weight (cork and plumber's putty) and then glued the knot to the raised material?
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Your local hardware store should have good quality epoxy used for household repairs. You don't need marine epoxy unless you plan on keeping your knot submerged for long periods of time, which you should not do anyway.
Omega knots are not glued in, but held by tension as they are snapped into the handle. AZwetshaver showed nicely how to harvest a knot from an Omega brush; I just do the same. I buy Omega brushes just to get the knots out....
Since it looks like a cup and both parts are made of plastic, I would use some simple (and cheap) cement. A small dab inside the handle then press the knot in. Just measure inside depth/cup height for a perfect fit, prior to applying glue , just to make sure the cup will bottom.
I would not use anything else as I believe it will be an overkill and waste of money. I think that even a dab of PVC pipe glue would work. One is not manly enough if never tried plumbing.
- Thread starter
- #17
Since it looks like a cup and both parts are made of plastic, I would use some simple (and cheap) cement. A small dab inside the handle then press the knot in. Just measure inside depth/cup height for a perfect fit, prior to applying glue , just to make sure the cup will bottom.
I would not use anything else as I believe it will be an overkill and waste of money. I think that even a dab of PVC pipe glue would work. One is not manly enough if never tried plumbing.
Dear @VerbaVolant,
I appreciate your advice a lot.
Using cement really surprises me.
I cannot agree with you more about overkilling.
Solvent cement that is. It shouldn't be a surprise, in my opinion, since both parts are plastic. I know, there is plastic and then there is plastic. But still, good quality "marine" grade epoxy will, most likely, be more expensive than the brush itself. Maybe worth if you are in business of manufacturing brushes and divide the cost over a certain number of brushes. For a one time repair, if I were in this situation, I would use good old solvent cement.
I could be wrong, as I have been wrong before.
Oh, one more thing, since you mentioned Gorilla glue. Be careful what kind of glue you want to use. Gorilla polyurethane glue will expand during curing process. If you try to use that you are in for a surprise. It will be funny, for the rest of us, not for you. Unless you have a healthy sense of humour and be able to take it as just another life lesson.
Instead of using an expensive glue, buy another !
It would be cheaper.
It would be cheaper.
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