Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
I agree with Keith and David.
There are a great many variables to consider.
Happy shaves,
Jim
Mild vs Aggressive Razors
- Thread starter alaujf
- Start date
I agree with Keith and David.
There are a great many variables to consider.
Happy shaves,
Jim
Depends entirely. I, too, have sensitive skin. For me, a mild razor like a Super Speed Blue or adjustable razor like a Gillette Fat Boy or Slim, or a Merkur Futur or Variant kill two birds with one stone: increase the efficiency if I feel that's necessary, but dial it down to mild if my face feels more touchy on a given day, or if I expect a lot of cold + wind the next morning.
-Z
If someone would have asked me 2 years ago,I would've said mild razors all the way,but....in the meanwhile, with the proper technique I have discovered that the super aggressiv razors used with a steep angle give me the best and comfortable shave of my life. I just don't need anymore buffing,the first pass leaves my face with minimal stubble and I manage to do a 2 pass shave sometimes. I use a charcoal Goods Level 3 (1st generation) at a steep angle with Zero drama and it gives me the best shave of my life.
The "sensitive skin" notion is sometimes something relative. I think that 90% of us where the "sensitive skin guys" in the first years of ...real shaving. The more you are "dating" the blade with your skin ,the more your face will become non- sensitive during the years.
The "sensitive skin" notion is sometimes something relative. I think that 90% of us where the "sensitive skin guys" in the first years of ...real shaving. The more you are "dating" the blade with your skin ,the more your face will become non- sensitive during the years.
I understand what you are saying. In my case, my skin can get psoriasis outbreaks... little bumps... but they aren't caused by the razor and blade selection... they are because my skin reacts to certain soap ingredients, esp. the fragrances. I use mostly unscented soaps now..... and a few very lightly scented ones... but I can still get those red bumps. According to my dermatologist, they can have a variety of causes apart from shaving.. stress.. sleep levels, etc.. The Metro gel she prescribed help to keep them at bay most of the time.
I think that there is more to the story...
I am not of the belief that multiple passes necessarily result in more irritation. It can but it does not necessarily have to.
I shave with gel. I do one "pass" with lather and then I rinse my face and do additional strokes as necessary for clean up.
As long as you have a layer of lubricant of some kind and your face has a slickness to it, you can go over the same general area several times without irritating your face.
This statement is not without condition! You must be shaving properly and your blade must be still sharp and without damage.
The problem with a mild razor is that if the blade is not doing its job and cutting efficiently, then there is a natural tendency to go over the same area again to accomplish the task at hand.
Again, that in itself is not a problem. Where the problem comes in, is our natural tendency to apply more pressure to the head to get it to cut more closely. Doing this is causing the surface to scrape the surface if your skin. Doing this multiple times, will result in the skin becoming irritated.
Worse yet, MIT conducted a study in which they discovered that razor blades can "fray" and become damaged along the edge. On a microscopic level, the blade may still have an overall sharpness, but the edge is no longer smooth and has jagged points along the blade.
Naturally, if you are going over the same area while applying additional pressure, you will end up placing multiple microscopic cuts in your skin.
So, even with the mildest razor, it is still possible to shave aggressively.
I am not of the belief that multiple passes necessarily result in more irritation. It can but it does not necessarily have to.
I shave with gel. I do one "pass" with lather and then I rinse my face and do additional strokes as necessary for clean up.
As long as you have a layer of lubricant of some kind and your face has a slickness to it, you can go over the same general area several times without irritating your face.
This statement is not without condition! You must be shaving properly and your blade must be still sharp and without damage.
The problem with a mild razor is that if the blade is not doing its job and cutting efficiently, then there is a natural tendency to go over the same area again to accomplish the task at hand.
Again, that in itself is not a problem. Where the problem comes in, is our natural tendency to apply more pressure to the head to get it to cut more closely. Doing this is causing the surface to scrape the surface if your skin. Doing this multiple times, will result in the skin becoming irritated.
Worse yet, MIT conducted a study in which they discovered that razor blades can "fray" and become damaged along the edge. On a microscopic level, the blade may still have an overall sharpness, but the edge is no longer smooth and has jagged points along the blade.
Naturally, if you are going over the same area while applying additional pressure, you will end up placing multiple microscopic cuts in your skin.
So, even with the mildest razor, it is still possible to shave aggressively.
I've had my share of shaving with aggressive razors in my quest for a closer shave, but for me now, I pay closer attention to pre shave oil and cream and double lathering techniques to soften the stubble and am content to achieve BBS or near BBs with a mild razor with less fear of nicks and cuts
I have sensitive skin too and I found that the more aggressive for me worked better. I did begin with a mild Edwin Jagger DE89 which worked well but I found with 2 shims thrown in, it hits the spot for me now just like other aggressive razors I own.
I would recommend doing the same. Go mild with no shim needed, win. Add a shim or 2, win:win.
I would recommend doing the same. Go mild with no shim needed, win. Add a shim or 2, win:win.
My opinion...(older sensitive skin)
mild razor (Jagger DE89)
good blade (Nacet or Astra SP)
slick thin lather
slow short WTG Gillette slide strokes mostly riding the guard
My goals are in the CCS/DFS range
Two key points: Skin tightening/stretching and NO PRESSURE strokes.
BTW, @alaujf, WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!
mild razor (Jagger DE89)
good blade (Nacet or Astra SP)
slick thin lather
slow short WTG Gillette slide strokes mostly riding the guard
My goals are in the CCS/DFS range
Two key points: Skin tightening/stretching and NO PRESSURE strokes.
BTW, @alaujf, WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!
I like a mild razor, but I'm not sure your question has a final answer. A solution is to buy an adjustable razor like a Gillette Fatboy, a new or used Mekur Progress or Rockwell 6, or the gorgeous Rex Ambassador.
Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
I'm sure you've figured out from all our responses that yours is a very difficult question.
Partly this is due to variations in our skin and whiskers. (And none of us can be sure exactly what the skin and whiskers of others are like. We don't know how ours are like theirs and unlike theirs, but we can guess to a degree if they describe their whiskers and skin, but most people don't.)
Partly the problem is terminology.
To me, mild means smooth and comfortable during the shave. I dislike the term aggressive unless it is defined. My definition of aggressive is this: The razor tends to damage skin, it's too harsh in its feeling or in its actions, it might jump out of nowhere to bite you.
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I prefer to use razors which are mild feeling, but also have a fairly high level of efficiency. A great example of such a razor is the Lambda Athena. (There's a thread on it.) I also know I can use razors with huge gaps and huge blade exposure, but don't prefer them especially on my most sensitive area which is my upper lip especially shaving ATG S-N. My Sailor adjustable dials down to a super low blade exposure, super mild, super smooth setting so it works great on my upper lip.
Another excellent mild but very efficient razor is the FOCS. Unlike the Athena and Sailor the FOCS is inexpensive, but don't let that fool you as it is an excellent mild and efficient shaver.
My skin is old. I don't think it is more sensitive than average, but it tends to become dry if I'm not careful; much of that can be dealt with and I've figured out how. See this link.
My whiskers are average, too, in many ways, but they are in places such as my soul patch extremely wiry and tough and hard to cut and smooth.
Much has been written about razor geometry and such but I don't think its well understood in a comprehensive sense by anyone on B&B. Certainly it is not by me. The mechanical engineer who designed the Athena has created a razor with very low gap, negative blade exposure, and characteristics which make it look like a super mild feeling razor which might be very inefficient. It is however amazingly and surprisingly and shockingly efficient. In other words, why? I don't know the answer nor does it matter much.
What matters is finding what works for you. That is not an easy task unless you get very lucky, have easy skin and whiskers, or are far more clever than most of us.
Other of my posts discuss aspects of these matters. I'll link three. Link one. Link two. Link three.
Happy shaves,
Jim
Agree 100% with your observation on terminology. There seems to be little consistency in terms, which makes comparison difficult just by reading.
Interestingly, a razor that has surprisingly jumped out and bitten me more than a few times is the Feather ASD2, which by all other standards would be classified as a "mild" razor.
Jim, I agree.... on paper, the Athena shouldn't shave at all. LOL.... but it's surprisingly efficient while being smooth and comfortable at the same time.
For me this is like the Winning razor. It's "mild" but somehow manages to be efficient.
Adjustable could be the answer too. Merkur Progress is a winner and reasonably priced.
My 2cents: I also have very sensitive skin and must always pay attention to the ingredients of my shaving soaps, because they also often cause a skin burn and irritations.
After I have long held on to a three pass shave with milder razor, I have now found for me that a two pass shave with a more efficient razor is much more pleasant with the same result.
Currently I have sold almost all milder or mid-agressive razors and have only my Blackbird SS and my Merkur Progress (on level 4 almost no difference to the 'Bird).
My recommendation would also be the Mercury Progress and then start low and turn up from shave to shave. And then see what suits you the most.
I have sensitive skin and find the blade makes the biggest difference. An aggressive razor will give me a closer first pass, but the same result with a 2 or 3 pass shave. However, a blade that's starting to dull always requires more touch ups than a sharp one.
I think technique is super important as many stated. I'm still very much a newbie, no real sensitive skin and in my first shaves with the aluminum Lupo I had some awful irritation. And that's an alleged mild razor. I shaved with my Rockwell 6c plate 5 with no issues and the Lupo gave me what looked like sunburn. Once I learned the proper angle, pressure and technique I enjoyed the Lupo a lot. It is a matter of trying and giving more than one chance to your gear until you find what suits you and what you learn to use best
Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
Indeed.
A couple of comments.
A Fixed Four can be extremely effective, but not all gear is created equal. Some kit is better than other kit.
Happy shaves,
Jim
Lots of factors affect the shave result. Blade exposure, blade gap, pressure, etc..
If I had to do it over again, I would have bought an adjustable from day 1!
The adjustable will let you try out different settings and from there you can see what works for you. Then you can stay with it or start experimenting with other razors that (generally) fall within your preferred setting.
I did it backwards where I tried all different types of razors with different geometries and eventually found what I like in a razor. One adjustable would have done the same job and it would have been much cheaper for me.
Now I still try new razors but they're based on what I know I most likely will like.
@Mr. Shavington mentioned the Merkur Progress. I think that razor would be a great starting point. You also have the Parker Variant. And if you like vintage, you can give a Gillette Slim adjustable a try. Any of these options will be less than $75.
Good luck,
LRod
I haven't use either of the two adjustables I have... well, I will have after I open the Merkur Progress our son is giving me for Christmas.
But I have found a few people on B&B who like the same thing in a razor that I do, @LRod included. That has lead me to some razors that are perfect for my face and whiskers. That's what I look for when I read B&B threads: people who have a lot in common with me. It's served me well for the months I've been here on B&B. I made a few mistakes early on following recommendations from people who have very different likes than I do. Thankfully, none of them were expensive... a couple of relatively inexpensive brushes. Live and learn, hopefully.
But I have found a few people on B&B who like the same thing in a razor that I do, @LRod included. That has lead me to some razors that are perfect for my face and whiskers. That's what I look for when I read B&B threads: people who have a lot in common with me. It's served me well for the months I've been here on B&B. I made a few mistakes early on following recommendations from people who have very different likes than I do. Thankfully, none of them were expensive... a couple of relatively inexpensive brushes. Live and learn, hopefully.
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