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Men's Wear Sizing Rant

This post is inspired by recent shopping experiences and the thread here about slim fit.

Let it be said, I'm larger, but not portly. I'm not round, and I have shoulders that look like I'm wearing shoulder pads. Due to those shoulders and a chest to match, I've been a solid XL shirt size since I was 14. Also, I know a good tailor will help a lot with fit, and one day I may have enough filthy luchre to go that route. Until then, like many of us, I'm an off the rack Jack.

So anyway, along with a new shaving kit, I wanted to spend my tax return on much needed new clothing. Armed with a fist full of dollars, I headed out into the world to see what I could find. I wouldn't say I was doing a whole new wardrobe, but I definitely was updating my look and upping my style a bit to one I was more comfortable with. Due to life changes, divorce, and a few other things, it had been at least 3 years since I'd bought anything new that wasn't running clothes.

My first outing was disastrous. I didn't find a whole lot, and much of what I did find seemed like a compromise with fit and style. So I decided to not get anything, went home and hit the interwebs to see what other people were doing. I found a lot information, and the best piece of advice (common sense) that I'd ever read with regards to clothing:

Don't pay attention to the sizing, buy what fits.

Simple advice, so simple I'd never thought of it. So I went out into the world again, and this time I came back with clothing. As you'll be able to see, I'm not a brand snob, I look at fit, comfort and how it looks. All of these things, fit about the same, although the sizing is very different.

Like I said, I've been a pretty standard XL since I was 14. Fat and muscle change, but my shoulders are bone, and pretty much don't.

JCP OCBDs, XL regular fit, waaay too small. XXL, a little loose but still right.

Gap button up: XL regular fit, a little bigger than the JCP XXL.

Old Navy button up: XL regular/classic fit, a little tight but fit very well.

No idea what brands button ups at Nordstroms: XL, perfect fit, like the XL I've always bought. Somewhere between the Old navy XL and the JCP XXL.

This is where it gets interesting....

Brooks Brothers: Button up casual XL regular and traditional fits were HUGE. I felt like a little kid wearing my Dad's shirt. I went down to L, and they fit perfectly.

No idea what brand casual blazer at Macy's: These were on deep discounted sale, so took a look at them. They weren't sized like jackets are regularly, they were the S-XXXL sizing. I bought one, and it was XXXL. It was a little tight, but I liked it enough and it was cheap enough and I knew there were a couple things coming up I could wear it for and not be bothered by it being a little small in the pits. But XXXL? Seriously? It was the fit I'd expect from a L.

Sizing on dress shirts drives me crazy, so I generally skip those entirely. I have a large neck, and find that if I buy the 17.5 or 18 dress shirt, I get a shirt made by Omar the Tent maker that barely fits my neck. Surely, these are meant to be further tailored, so I skip entirely.

Pants inseam was even worse, especially within the same brand. I normally wear a 32" inseam. An Old Navy jean was a little short. An Old Navy pair of khakis at 30" inseam was just about right. Both fit around the waist about the same.

I can't be the only one who has run into this. It's fairly aggravating. I've had so many women friends say, "You don't understand, women's sizing is all over the place and it's impossible to find things to wear." No, I'm pretty sure I understand!

Anyway, that advice, go by fit not by size was a great tip for me. Not getting hung up on a size chart that's arbitrary at best allowed me to get some great clothes and actually enjoy shopping for myself.
 
Yes clothing sizing is all over the place. And you have the right idea of ignoring sizing and just look at what fits. There allot of brands that the cut does not suit me no matte the size. Over time I have found a few brand that have a consistent cut and I can order over internet without worry. Pants are whole other story for me.
 
I agree - standard sizes aren't quite so "standard" after all, whether its shirts, shoes, pants, suits - pretty much anything....

But sounds like you ended up doing pretty well on the buying!
 
I did do well on the buying! Switching to fit from sizing made it a much more enjoyable experience too. I've never enjoyed shopping for clothes, but I did this time.
 
I'm going to have to try that. When I go shopping I get hung up on sizes. I find waist size on pants to be all over the place as well. It just gets tiring looking for a size that should fit, going to the dressing room and have it be too loose or too tight. I'm short so finding the correct inseam is next to impossible so most of my pants have to be tailored.
 
Unfortunately like everything else our clothes now comes from all over the world and sizing standards seem to be completely different. I remember being able to go to any store and buying "my" size in any brand and it would fit every time. Those days seem to be long gone and i now see what women have had to deal with.
The upside to this is I now pay much more attention to what I am buying.
 
Don't give up on the dress shirts either as the same rule applies. I have the same issue and I can't even count how many brands any fits it took to find something I was comfortable in. I found that Van Heusen slim fit is the closest I can get without a tailor. Best yet I live close to one of their outlet stores and get them at good price.
 
I feel your pain about the random sizes. I have gotten so fed up that I have only a few brands that I buy from for work, and they always fit exactly the same with no gripes. Best of luck in your search.
 
Not sure why you would feel they tailoring is a luxury you can't afford. $15 or $20 for a pair of pants will get the waist adjusted and legs sized perfectly for you at most tailors
 
Same goes for shoes.
My size in AE is 11.5-A. I could possibly use an AA, but the A works.
I have a pair of Topsiders in 11.
I have other shoes in 12.
 
Same goes for shoes.
My size in AE is 11.5-A. I could possibly use an AA, but the A works.
I have a pair of Topsiders in 11.
I have other shoes in 12.

That's why I try to stay with the AE shoes in certain lasts, I always know that they will fit.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
When you find something that works for you, you've found gold.


Really frustrating to me is the Brooks Bros "Peal & Co." shoes ... excellent shoes made by two high-end English shoemakers on a number of different lasts ... but no information whatsoever on the BB website as to which last which shoe is made on. Wake up, BB!!
 
I completely know your predicament. I'm "generally speaking" a 3XLT in shirts but I have to try them on to see if it's even in the ballpark. Sometimes I get the right body fit, but the manufacturer must use a form for a T-Rex, the sleeves end up being ridiculously short. Others, the shoulder cut is so far off the seam ends up halfway down my bicep. Then the "tall" part of the equation pops up, and they either used the shortest "tall" model they had, or it's an ankle length dress.
 
Being only 5'6", I have a heck of a time finding pants that fit. I always have to get my dress pants tailored as I have never seen pants in a store with a short enough inseam.
 
That's sort of the whole point of trying things on. You start with what looks like the right size, go to the changing room and see if it fits, and if it doesn't... you try another size.

:confused1 Were you just skipping the last step all these years? I find it is particularly true for "letter sizes", which in my experience are completely useless. I own and wear, on a regular basis, shirts and sweaters which literally span the range from S to XL. And I don't like my clothes loose and floppy, either.


One way to optimize your shopping experience: Deliberately take different sizes and/or different colours to the changing room in the same trip.

i.e. when I was shopping for jeans at the GAP recently I took a pair of black 1969 38" and blue 1969 36" into the change room at the same time. I'll also often take the exact same sweater in both M and L (or S and M) to the changing room at the same time.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
One way to optimize your shopping experience: Deliberately take different sizes and/or different colours to the changing room in the same trip.

That's my standard procedure ... and sometimes, three options (what size I think I am, one size larger and one size smaller).

And forget about "size loyalty" or the perceived manliness of wearing one size over another ... don't think of yourself as a size letter or number.
 
Complicating matters, I've found, is that even within a brand, sizes are inconsistent. Being a bit more athletically built than the average guy, I now opt for MTM.

Ian - a salesman at B&B told me that Peal & Co shoes are not made on C&J lasts but Brooks Brothers' lasts. For what it is worth, which is probably not a lot, I find them quite comfortable across the three different pairs I have.
 
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Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
Ian - a salesman at B&B told me that Peal & Co shoes are not made on C&J lasts but Brooks Brothers' lasts. For what it is worth, which is probably not a lot, I find them quite comfortable across the three different pairs I have.

Yeah, I think the lasts actually were owned by Peal & Co. back decades ago when they were an actual going concern in Northampton, before they got bought out by BB, basically for the name & lasts.

AFAIK, Alfred Sargent and C&J make the shoes, on various lasts ... and there's no info on the BB website as to who makes the shoes, or on which lasts. I did manage to contact AS a few years ago and got them to make me a custom pair of boots on the same last as boots they made for BB ... wearing them right now, as a matter of fact ...
 
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