Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Try 3 layers of electrical tape.
let's talk about stainless steel
- Thread starter aussie
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Yep. I'll pick up some digital calipers on there way home from work tomorrow and check my working. Thanks for the pointers!
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Let me know if it works, please. I’ve encountered one recently.
Will do. It won't be until next weekend that I get to it, but I'll post an update here.
Coming in late, but I've had success with my Friodur with three different approaches.
I started with a regular synthetic progression to 12k. A good edge, but not as crisp as I would have liked.
Next was the same synthetic progression, but finished on pasted balsa. Nice crisp edge, but sacrificed a little comfort that I compensated for with lighter touch in my technique.Finally, gave up on balsa because I didn't get to hone often enough.
Switched to a Les Lateneuse coticule. I've done the synthetic progression, finishing on the hybrid side with water. Also done the full progression on the hello side using slurry diluted to clear water and then water only on the hybrid side. Both left me with a very keen, but very comfortable, edge. No "toothiness".
The Les Lat is currently my preferred finisher for all my razors.
I started with a regular synthetic progression to 12k. A good edge, but not as crisp as I would have liked.
Next was the same synthetic progression, but finished on pasted balsa. Nice crisp edge, but sacrificed a little comfort that I compensated for with lighter touch in my technique.Finally, gave up on balsa because I didn't get to hone often enough.
Switched to a Les Lateneuse coticule. I've done the synthetic progression, finishing on the hybrid side with water. Also done the full progression on the hello side using slurry diluted to clear water and then water only on the hybrid side. Both left me with a very keen, but very comfortable, edge. No "toothiness".
The Les Lat is currently my preferred finisher for all my razors.
I have got quite comfortable edges on my Friodur with a JNat folowed by water on a Black Shadow, I definitely prefer natural edge finishes over pasted balsa for comfort.
A Henckels Friodur 8/8 is very hollow ground. It is easy to use too much pressure and cause the back of the bevel to act a as a fulcrum, lift the edge off the stone or not make full contact.
Ink the bevels with colored ink.
Ink the bevels with colored ink.
I see that @Steve56 recently helped @Titleist with his Le Duc at What straight did you use today? Now with PICTURES - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/what-straight-did-you-use-today-now-with-pictures.248174/post-11909543.
I would be curious to know what issues @Titleist experienced with his Le Duc, as well as the razor's bevel angle. Two Le Ducs in less than two weeks - what are the chances?
I would be curious to know what issues @Titleist experienced with his Le Duc, as well as the razor's bevel angle. Two Le Ducs in less than two weeks - what are the chances?
You are a wizard!. Yes, it worked all right. I only needed two layers of tape, as that took the bevel angle to 20.8°. Shave was the smoothest and closest I have had off this blade. Thanks Steve! I don't know enough about honing to understand why it worked, but I am thrilled with the result.
Details below if anyone is interested.
Killed the edge on glass and slowly built up the bevel on 1K, stopping to check frequently. Also kept removing swarf from the stone as soon as the water turned a little darker. It didn't take that long, but I worked slowly and lightly. Once it had passed all three tests (thumb pad, shaving hair, no reflections) along the entire length, I went to the Jnat with a diamond slurry and worked through to clean water. Then the Black Shadow for 20 laps with a light lather, followed by 20 with clean water. Stropped linen and leather 60 laps a piece and it was treetopping arm hair in huge tufts.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
YW sir, I am glad that it worked for you.
The one that I encountered would not hold an edge above 8k, you could see shiny lines on the apex with a loupe after stropping, the shiny lines are where metal has broken out of the apex under the stress of stropping. You could see it a little before stropping too, but the important thing is that you can see such failures with a loupe if you look.
About the only thing that you can do is add tape to the spine to increase the bevel angle to a point that the steel is thick enough to hold a high grit edge.
The one that I honed had a native (no tape) bevel angle of 19.8 degrees. That a CVH couldn’t hold an edge above 8k with a ~20 degree bevel angle flabbergasted me, but there ya have it.
The one that I encountered would not hold an edge above 8k, you could see shiny lines on the apex with a loupe after stropping, the shiny lines are where metal has broken out of the apex under the stress of stropping. You could see it a little before stropping too, but the important thing is that you can see such failures with a loupe if you look.
About the only thing that you can do is add tape to the spine to increase the bevel angle to a point that the steel is thick enough to hold a high grit edge.
The one that I honed had a native (no tape) bevel angle of 19.8 degrees. That a CVH couldn’t hold an edge above 8k with a ~20 degree bevel angle flabbergasted me, but there ya have it.
This explains why my last ditch effort when I see blades behaving up until I hit higher grits then they start failing tests - is add more tape. Has worked a hand full of times now and now I know why
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
BTW, needing a steeper angle seems to be common with many old English ‘choppers’, 1/4 hollow or heavier wide blades. I have three that need tape in spite of a ‘robust’ bevel angle. I have some that don’t need tape, who knows what the difference in steel/grind is.
There are a lot of posts about 2-3 layers of tape on English choppers over on the ‘palace’, but I never paid much attention since I wasn’t that much in to old English choppers. But they’re right on some choppers. And I ended up with a few of them because of price, etc, then had to hone them.
There are a lot of posts about 2-3 layers of tape on English choppers over on the ‘palace’, but I never paid much attention since I wasn’t that much in to old English choppers. But they’re right on some choppers. And I ended up with a few of them because of price, etc, then had to hone them.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
My theory is that some blades will not hold an edge on finer grits if the bevel angle is less than the steel will allow. This is dependant on the steel alloy and its heat treatment, both annealing and tempering.
As an aside, I have found over the past few months as my honing skills have improved, there is often little or no noticeable difference in shave quality between bevel angles (within reason).
As an aside, I have found over the past few months as my honing skills have improved, there is often little or no noticeable difference in shave quality between bevel angles (within reason).
Important: The burr should be the shortest. Only then can STROP successfully find the most comfortable edge.
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