What's new

Lacquer flaking on brush handle

When I started this change into wet shaving I purchased a Bluebeards Revenge shavette kit.
A part of this was a pretty standard synthetic brush.

proxy.php


It’s been a pretty good brush (not that I’d really know the difference yet!) but the lacquer has pretty much disintegrated from the handle, leaving the raw wood exposed.

Is this something that happens often? I realise it’s a ‘cheap’ brush - but it’s pretty much done what every other brush of this kind has done in the sporadic times I’ve had one.
Is 4 months out of it decent?

I’ll most likely be looking for a new one soon- is this one of the advantages of a resin handle?

And is there genuine advantages to spending decent money on a brush compared to buying a quantity of Chinese cheapies, which I’m sure would be the generic version of what I currently have and just toss it after 4 months?

Thanks,
Tim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

ajkel64

Check Out Chick
Staff member
You should have gotten more out of it but now you can play around a little. You could sand it back and re-stain it a different color and then re-lacquer or waterproof it. Have some fun.
 
You should have gotten more out of it but now you can play around a little. You could sand it back and re-stain it a different color and then re-lacquer or waterproof it. Have some fun.

I had fleetingly thought about this. The annoying thing is the bristles are still good, it’s just the coating that’s failing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Well it must have been a pre-curser to future events. The knot has come free today. Bugger.

Will buy something else and then sand back the handle and re-glue. Annoying that it’s a dodgy build as overall it’s been a good brush and is still in good condition.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Well it must have been a pre-curser to future events. The knot has come free today. Bugger.

Will buy something else and then sand back the handle and re-glue. Annoying that it’s a dodgy build as overall it’s been a good brush and is still in good condition.

Sorry to hear about your brush. Probably not a bad thing, as I really think that you won't look back once you replace it with a better brush.

BTW - I always thought that brush was a boar, rather than synthetic (I might wrong). As mentioned in one of the posts above, the handle resembles some of the budget brushes you can buy directly from China. I'm guessing your brush would have costed a little more because of the brand name.

Looking forward to hearing what you replace it with. Lots of options available at budget pricing, which will provide you with much better performance (whether synthetic or boar).
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear about your brush. Probably not a bad thing, as I really think that you won't look back once you replace it with a better brush.

BTW - I always thought that brush was a boar, rather than synthetic (I might wrong). As mentioned in one of the posts above, the handle resembles some of the budget brushes you can buy directly from China. I'm guessing your brush would have costed a little more because of the brand name.

Looking forward to hearing what you replace it with. Lots of options available at budget pricing, which will provide you with much better performance (whether synthetic or boar).

Thanks. I’ve had the proraso brush in a cart a few times now, it might be time.

There’s a few versions of the Bluebeard brushes. This one was part of a $50 starter pack so pretty sure it’s a cheap synthetic (which other than build quality has been great)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
The Proraso brush (made by Omega) would make a very good choice. It is a much larger brush than your existing BBR Doubloon, so it will take some getting used to. You can't go wrong with any Omega boar brush.

To others reading this thread, "Bluebeards Revenge" is known as "Dreadnought" in North America.

There are plenty of synthetic brushes which perform really well and are easy on the wallet. To name a few, there are various synthetics from; Yaqi, Maggard, Razorock, or the locally made 24mm synth from TSW. However, there's a never-ending list of great performing synthetics these days. Best to read a few reviews and chose one that appeals to you. I definitely recommend owning at least one synthetic.

With all due respect, I doubt your existing brush is synthetic. Do you have a few ends of the hair splitting, which would suggest it's boar bristle? I've never owned the same brush, so I might wrong. I thought the only synthetics from Bluebeards Revenge/Dreadnought are known as Vanguard brushes, which come in a faux ivory handle (possibly plastic). The wooden handle brush such as yours is described by many sites, including the vendor web-site, as a "bristle" brush (bristle aka animal hair - which generally means boar hair).
 
Last edited:
And is there genuine advantages to spending decent money on a brush compared to buying a quantity of Chinese cheapies, which I’m sure would be the generic version of what I currently have and just toss it after 4 months?

There is a PROFOUND difference between cheap brushes like that, and higher quality brushes with better grades of hair, and/or a denser packing of hair. With that being said, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on a brush. There are brushes costing upwards of $200, and they certainly add to the experience, but you can get excellent brushes for $40 or less, that are every bit as good. My brush of choice cost $20, and it outperforms my old $80 brush.

By the way, shaving brushes are not meant to be disposable. They should last for many years, if not a lifetime, provided that you care for them properly.
 
The Proraso brush (made by Omega) would make a very good choice. It is a much larger brush than your existing BBR Doubloon, so it will take some getting used to. You can't go wrong with any Omega boar brush.

To others reading this thread, "Bluebeards Revenge" is known as "Dreadnought" in North America.

There are plenty of synthetic brushes which perform really well and are easy on the wallet. To name a few, there are various synthetics from; Yaqi, Maggard, Razorock, or the locally made 24mm synth from TSW. However, there's a never-ending list of great performing synthetics these days. Best to read a few reviews and chose one that appeals to you. I definitely recommend owning at least one synthetic.

With all due respect, I doubt your existing brush is synthetic. Do you have a few ends of the hair splitting, which would suggest it's boar bristle? I've never owned the same brush, so I might wrong. I thought the only synthetics from Bluebeards Revenge/Dreadnought are known as Vanguard brushes, which come in a faux ivory handle (possibly plastic). The wooden handle brush such as yours is described by many sites, including the vendor web-site, as a "bristle" brush (bristle aka animal hair - which generally means boar hair).

Thanks for your response! And thanks for another Aussie vendor. Much appreciated.

I’d just assumed synthetic, so I could be totally wrong too. I guess that was just my assumption as to the order of ‘value’ for these things.

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php


I’ve attached some photos for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
And seeing as it is still in good condition, I figure I might as well put it back together.

First step - strip the dodgy lacquer:

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php

proxy.php


The question is - to colour or keep natural?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
By the way, shaving brushes are not meant to be disposable. They should last for many years, if not a lifetime, provided that you care for them properly.

I don’t think I’ve done anything wrong with this. It gets kept in open air to dry, doesn’t get left in water etc.
Now that the knot is out, there’s a pretty solid gap there, so I’m wondering whether some water has got in and ruined it that way?

proxy.php



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
This looks like an example of a cheap brush. Next time go for an inexpensive brush; Omega, Semogue, Yaqi, or store brands from Razorock or Maggards come to mind.

But your project of refinishing and regluing the knot may give you a good brush after all.
 
proxy.php


Well the black won’t win me any awards (and certainly isn’t my best work) but if it gets me some more use out of my brush then it’s done the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Good job. The pics looked like the knot was still in good condition, so you may now have yourself a good brush.
 
Good job. The pics looked like the knot was still in good condition, so you may now have yourself a good brush.

Thanks. It’s done the trick for my shave today. I managed to get a good layer of epoxy all the way around so it’s almost watertight (I missed a small spot).

I’ll still look to buy something else but for now she will keep doing the trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Thanks for your response! And thanks for another Aussie vendor. Much appreciated.

I’d just assumed synthetic, so I could be totally wrong too. I guess that was just my assumption as to the order of ‘value’ for these things.

I’ve attached some photos for you.

Looks like boar to me. I believe I can see the odd hair with split ends, but there seems to be many upside-down boar hairs in that brush as well.

Good work in salvaging your brush - I'm guessing it might have some sentimental value, so it must feel great to be able to save it.

I agree, water most likely had caused the damage. Just in case you're not aware, here's a few tips for you: Make sure you shake-out all the water after use (generous shakes, not shoulder falling-off type shakes...but decent strong shakes to remove as much water as possible). A good practise afterwards is to also give it a few light towel strops, just to dry the tips (which should help speed-up the drying process). I then place my brush on a stand in a well ventilated area (near an open window), but many on here don't believe in stands, which appears to work just as well for them. Also, when soaking your brush prior to use, soak only the tips (maybe up to 75% of the knot standing in a mug) using Luke-warm water only (this last point is particularly important if its a wooden handle). Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom