About Brush Cleaning and it's downfalls...

[Rudy Vey]

How about, once or twice a year, a bath for a few minutes in vinegar solution (1:3) and/or diluted borax, then gentle comb or brush at the base? The idea is to wash away soap residue. Is this a good or a bad idea generally? How about with a wood handle?

I know some people have an elaborate method of cleaning their brushes, but personally, I have never used anything else than warm water to rinse out all the soap residue after shaving - like so many have mentioned here. I also never had the feeling that my brushes need a special cleaning treatment, since they get cleaned after each shave. My belief is that if you see any residue collecting on the hairs, you are not doing a good job on cleaning your brushes.
Used to live for quite some time with very hard water, but never seen any built-up on the hair/brush. If you have hard water, and fear that these salt residues may harm your brush, give it a rinse in distilled water after your soap removal washing routine after shaving.

 

[Jim99]

I know some people have an elaborate method of cleaning their brushes, but personally, I have never used anything else than warm water to rinse out all the soap residue after shaving - like so many have mentioned here. I also never had the feeling that my brushes need a special cleaning treatment, since they get cleaned after each shave. My belief is that if you see any residue collecting on the hairs, you are not doing a good job on cleaning your brushes.
Used to live for quite some time with very hard water, but never seen any built-up on the hair/brush. If you have hard water, and fear that these salt residues may harm your brush, give it a rinse in distilled water after your soap removal washing routine after shaving.

@Rudy Vey , that’s excellent advice!

 

[Chaucer]

@Rudy Vey , that’s excellent advice!

I especially like advice NOT to do something. A very wise man, late senior partner in our law firm, used to say that 90% of the time the best thing to do is nothing.

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

I especially like advice NOT to do something. A very wise man, late senior partner in our law firm, used to say that 90% of the time the best thing to do is nothing.

In sports, it's frequently the trade you don't make that's the good move.

... Thom

 

[Odysseus]

Rinse, shake, dry on towel, and stand. Done.

 

[Sherlock40]

Should any type of sealant/wax be applied to wooden handles every now and then to maintain them? Or is this just not necessary? Any input is appreciated.

 

[beg033]

Should any type of sealant/wax be applied to wooden handles every now and then to maintain them? Or is this just not necessary? Any input is appreciated.

I recently applied food-grade mineral oil to my SOC Two Band Badger Cherry wood brush and my olive wood handled Muehle STF brush using a cotton pad. The result was remarkable: both brushes looked and felt like new. While I'm not an expert, I believe this approach is appropriate as long as it's done only when necessary. In my case, I noticed the handles were slightly dry, and just a few drops of mineral oil made a significant difference. They now look fantastic, in my opinion.

I plan to continue this treatment on my other wooden-handled brushes, such as my collection of Zeniths, whenever they feel like they need it. I really appreciate the aesthetic and feel of wooden brushes. The only thing I'm still aspiring to add to my collection is a wooden brush from @Rudy Vey . Fingers crossed I'll acquire one someday!

 

[Rudy Vey]

As long as it is natural wood, a treatment with oil, wax (like renaissance wax) will help to keep the beauty. Applied sparingly and wiped the residual off will work well. Make sure nothing gets into the hairs. If the handle is coated with any kind of finish, I doubt that it would be beneficial.
I try to use only resin stabilized wood and also apply some lacquer finish over the handle, these would need also no extra treatment. Certain woods, like Olivewood or Desert Ironwood are so dense and oily, a stabilization is not possible, so these would benefit from a little TLC from time to time.

 

[midwestshaver71]

To me it makes sense to just put it base down, bristles up, the way the brush is made.

If they weren't meant to be positioned your way, they would not have flat bottoms and would all include a stand.

In all my years of using them this way, I've never had an issue.

It's also why you don't see the brush info right side up whilst hanging in a stand.
Now, for those members who enjoy standing on your head to read the brush whilst hanging, or cranking your head around like a poltergeist possessed bloke, this argument hold no water.

 

[blethenstrom]

Interesting thread! I have a couple of questions regarding this.

If the knot is swelling and causing cracking in the handle would it be beneficial to have some margin between the hole and the knot? I.e drilling out the hole a bit larger than the knot size.

Second question. If you are dealing with un-stabilized wood would not water/moisture sitting at the bottom of the hole/knot be a big issue because of the wood absorbing it and cause cracking.

Third question if it is due to knot swelling, that the cracking occurs, I would assume you would see the same issue in non-wood handles as well. Have this been seen or maybe the handle material is so much stronger than wood and prevent it.

 

[Omega48]

I have just received this warning:

First of all I want to apologize with Rudy for posting something that maybe was irrelevant.
However I want to make sure it is clear I did NOT post any link to Amazon brushes. They links I posted were simply to a fan and a rotating table, the same that I use to dry my brushes (and the soap) after each shave. Since part of this discussion was about how to dry a brush, I thought it could have been helpful.
I'm not sure why the warning mentioned 'Amazon brushes', but again my apologies to Rudy for posting something that was considered off topic.

 

[Rudy Vey]

Interesting thread! I have a couple of questions regarding this.

If the knot is swelling and causing cracking in the handle would it be beneficial to have some margin between the hole and the knot? I.e drilling out the hole a bit larger than the knot size.

Second question. If you are dealing with un-stabilized wood would not water/moisture sitting at the bottom of the hole/knot be a big issue because of the wood absorbing it and cause cracking.

Third question if it is due to knot swelling, that the cracking occurs, I would assume you would see the same issue in non-wood handles as well. Have this been seen or maybe the handle material is so much stronger than wood and prevent it.

To your last question first, yes, I actually have a Rooney that has a small crack on the top where the knot exits.
You can see it just a tad right above the 1. Its pretty small, but I believe it has happened also due to knot swelling, it is a very dense knot.

When I have to decide what size hole to drill, I use a hole template I made with my available drill bits and insert the knot to the loft I want, and see what hole is the best, not too tight and not too lose. Sometimes the tighter hole is the better fit.
Water should be never sitting around a knot's glue plug in the handle. I try to fill all the space with glue, and in case of wooden brushes, I also seal the inside of the hole with epoxy. I see the biggest problem with the moisture with non-stabilized wood, but i rarely use it.

 

[skibik]

I usually rinse mine in cold water do a squeeze and a number of wrist flicks to get as much water out, with a towel in my hand I cup the brush and rub the brush hair between the towel that is in my fingers and then I hang it on the stand so bristles are down. I used to clean the clean brush a few times a year in the beginning(8 years ago when I started wet shaving) for a year or two using shampoo but then decided why it gets shave soap every shave it shouldn't need more soap to clean it. It is an Omega Silvertip resin handled brush and other than maybe a hair sheds once a month it has been holding up great for the last 8 years or so. I had read standing the brush bristles up could possible harm the know and glue and since I had a cheap plastic stand I use it.

 

[Lszabo]

Wow. Such a good thread . Allow me to add my 2 cents as well. I make brushes as well, mostly from wood because that is my favourite material to work with (there is a demand for resin brushes as well, so I make a few) .
I totally agree to Rudy in all his point and advices. I always recommend to rinse in water, milk , dry with a towel and hang the brush upside down after usage, once it is dry it can go back to its normal 'standing' position. I have one cheapo plastic stand in the cupboard which I use for this purpose.
Related to the knot hole - I tried several sizes/fits, looser fit as well. I think that the looser fit is not beneficial for the knot, becuase it allows the knot to splay wide and causes backbone loss. So nowadays I settled with the tighter fit.

Surface finish for wood was/is a key question for me, personally I do not believe in oil based finishes for a wooden shaving brush handle. Shaving soap is after all a soap and if wood meets a watery-soapy mixture frequently it will cause some damage on the oiled surfaces. There are some exotics hardwoods that are very sturdy and prone to water, so I know that you can achieve good/better results when you wanna have an oiled finish, but still soap and water will leave their marks on these as well . Hence I always apply some sort of lacquer or CA to finish my wooden brusher.

 

[Lane101]

I also have many standing up. Here is what I do after use: rinse well with warm water, shake them out rigorously, brush over towel, and set on the counter. They are totally dry within 12-24 hours, then they go back into the cabinet.
Its not that every brush will crack when too much moisture stays inside the knot, its just some are wooden ones are more prone to it. As I said, I have made many bog oak brushes, but never had one crack like this.

For years I have mulled why Semogue uses these metal cups/sleeves to put their knots in, it might be the exact reason to avoid slight expansion of the knot and cracking the handles, they used to make only wooden handles.

Rudy, is there any risk of eventually loosening the knot if you shake the brush rigorously. I've read some posts elsewhere warning of that. I mostly squeeze the water out of my brushes when done rinsing, give them a quick single shake while squeezing at the base of the knot to minimize this risk and then hang upside down to dry.

Like you I never clean my brush beyond the post-shave rinse.

 

[emwolf]

I too shake my brush, but I don't bang it against my palm or anything, just a vigorous shake in the air.

 

[Rudy Vey]

Rudy, is there any risk of eventually loosening the knot if you shake the brush rigorously. I've read some posts elsewhere warning of that. I mostly squeeze the water out of my brushes when done rinsing, give them a quick single shake while squeezing at the base of the knot to minimize this risk and then hang upside down to dry.

Like you I never clean my brush beyond the post-shave rinse.

Rudy, is there any risk of eventually loosening the knot if you shake the brush rigorously. I've read some posts elsewhere warning of that. I mostly squeeze the water out of my brushes when done rinsing, give them a quick single shake while squeezing at the base of the knot to minimize this risk and then hang upside down to dry.

Like you I never clean my brush beyond the post-shave rinse.

As Ted in the post after yours said, shake it out with a flick of the hand, just do not let go.....I had one once slipping out of my hand and it hit the sink and broke it...the brush was just fine, but the sink needed replacement.

 

[DesertIguana]

Have a Cheep Brush Hanger or Brush Stand. After using I rinse with Water, and Hand Bristles downward. So far ZERO problems.

Would think if you let Brush Sit with any moisture with Bristles up, you could create problem.

 

[AlphaFrank75]

Have a Cheep Brush Hanger or Brush Stand. After using I rinse with Water, and Hand Hang Bristles downward. So far ZERO problems.

Would think if you let Brush Sit with any moisture with Bristles up, you could create problem.

You've had zero problems hanging the brushes bristles down and I've had zero problems letting my brushes dry bristles up. Frankly, I don't think it matters one way or the other as long as you've squeezed/flicked/wiped away any excess water before hand. Although I'll never be convinced hanging the brushes bristles down is better than bristles up when it comes to drying.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

[brucered]

Have a Cheep Brush Hanger or Brush Stand. After using I rinse with Water, and Hand Bristles downward. So far ZERO problems.

Would think if you let Brush Sit with any moisture with Bristles up, you could create problem.

Same for me @AlphaFrank75

Zero problems the last 13y for me. It's pretty dry after the squeeze, shake, flick and towel swipe.