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I dug an old Gentleman`s Grooming Book out and...

I like allsorts of books and the other day I found a gem by an unknown American author - called - "Shaving Made Easy: What the Man Who Shaves Ought to Know" - no date but it looks like turn of the Century - when straights were mainstream and double edge safety razors were only just being gradually adopted.

Don`t worry no copyright anywhere to be seen but if there are any complaints I will remove this post immediately forthwith.

One passage in particular caught my attention and it sort of makes sense to me why I and my Father-in-law - born in `47 preferred a cold water shave.

So Tom started shaving about 1960 and I, about 1978.

To quote :-

"THE SAFETY RAZOR

Of recent years a great number of safety razors have been invented and placed on the market, the manufacturers of each claiming that theirs are superior to all others and that they have at last produced a razor that is destined to revolutionize shaving.


One thing may be said of safety razors in general—that if a man uses one he is less likely to cut himself, but this is all that can reasonably be said in their favor. Of course, if it were impossible to shave with the ordinary razor without cutting one’s self, then the safety razor would become a necessity. The truth is, however, that anyone who has a good keen smooth-cutting razor, lathers the face thoroughly, and will learn—if he does not already know—how to handle the razor properly, will run almost no danger. Such a man will seldom cut himself.


On the other hand, most of the safety razors are difficult to keep clean and dry, and therefore free from rust; and owing to the difficulty of stropping them, it is almost, if not quite impossible to keep them sharp. It is also difficult to make the correct stroke with them. Probably a hundred thousand safety razors have been sold in the United States within the past few years and it is extremely doubtful if ten per cent. of them are now in use.


THE SOAP.


Next to the razor, the most important article of the shaving outfit is the soap. In its proper use lies the real secret of easy shaving. The razor may be ever so good, but unless the beard is properly lathered with a good soap, shaving will be anything but a pleasure. Use only a regular recognized standard make of shaving soap, not, under any circumstances, a toilet soap. The latter is not intended for shaving, and is likely to produce irritations of the skin and leave the face rough and sore.


A wrong idea prevails regarding the use of the soap. The popular impression is that the soap is used for the purpose of softening the beard, in which condition it is supposed to be most easily cut. This is a mistake. The soap is used, not to soften the beard, but to produce exactly the opposite effect—namely, to make the hair stiff and brittle, so that they will present a firm and resisting surface to the razor. A hair, as is well known, is a tube composed of a hard fibrous substance, growing from a bulb or root, which secretes an oily matter. This oil works its way up through the hair, and by permeating all parts, renders the hair soft and pliable. Now in this natural oily condition, it is very difficult to cut the hair with a razor, and it becomes even more difficult if the beard be made still softer by the application of hot water. Many do this, and it is no wonder they find shaving difficult. When this is done, the hairs become soft and limp, and the razor will either slip over them entirely, or else cut partly into them, bend them back and slice them lengthwise, all the while pulling and straining them at the roots, and making the process of shaving most painful. Now soap has the opposite effect. It contains either alkali, potash or soda, which when applied to the beard in the form of lather, unites with the oil of the hair, neutralizing it and removing it, and renders the hairs hard stiff and brittle—in which condition they may be easily and readily cut. For the sake of cleanliness, the face should, of course, be washed previous to shaving in order to remove any dirt or grit from the beard, which might dull the razor; but before applying the lather, the face should be well dried with a towel."

What a fascinating read and trip down memory lane and also for me an eye-opener coming from the perspective of a fellow shaver - 100 odd years ago - it`s like a totally fresh insight into The Art of Shaving.
 
Perhaps Men`s faces were tougher 100 years ago - better, more nutrient-dense diet, more trace elements, grass-fed beef, plant was not force grown and the soil wasn`t hammered and full of pesticides and fertiliser so it could get more goodness from the soil - cows eat that good grass - and viola - plus no electrical smog to alter cells and DNA plus little or no pollution anywhere then and cancer was very rare then.

I`ve got really tough skin and shave without ANY lather - hardly any bubbles nevermind any type of white stuff - no problem - just a thin layer of 2 year matured Marseille or Aleppo high oil content trad soap with 3-4 ingredients in it.

I shaved with a Turkish YUMA the other day with no lather just a thin film of soap - no nicks or irritation whatsoever YMMV - I`m used to shaving in the desert - with an antique straight - with NO WATER at all - I used oil and booze - no choice in The West Bank - it`s a war zone !
 
Perhaps Men`s faces were tougher 100 years ago - better, more nutrient-dense diet, more trace elements, grass-fed beef, plant was not force grown and the soil wasn`t hammered and full of pesticides and fertiliser so it could get more goodness from the soil - cows eat that good grass - and viola - plus no electrical smog to alter cells and DNA plus little or no pollution anywhere then and cancer was very rare then.

I`ve got really tough skin and shave without ANY lather - hardly any bubbles nevermind any type of white stuff - no problem - just a thin layer of 2 year matured Marseille or Aleppo high oil content trad soap with 3-4 ingredients in it.

I shaved with a Turkish YUMA the other day with no lather just a thin film of soap - no nicks or irritation whatsoever YMMV - I`m used to shaving in the desert - with an antique straight - with NO WATER at all - I used oil and booze - no choice in The West Bank - it`s a war zone !

IMO men were tougher 100 years ago (not so sure about their faces)!! :popc::popc:
 
IMO men were tougher 100 years ago (not so sure about their faces)!! :popc::popc:
Yep deffo BigJ - people had to be strong to survive in those days; times were hard - especially food production and washing clothes took a lot of back-breaking work and time.

The amount of chemical junk and pollution in the environment in those days was miniscule and the immune system was not constantly assaulted so people`s complexion and digestion was consequently miles better than today.

Of course you are what you eat - I get a lot of my grub from friend`s allotments, I get raw milk and grass fed beef from small local farmers - not cheap - but worth it !

I`ve never had a skin problem in my life and lived from Norway to Egypt and I have never used moisturiser in temperatures ranging from -35 degrees centigrade to 58 degrees centigrade and it`s still quite smooth even though I drink and smoke - I don`t look my age - I`m so lucky !
 
Lather on a dry face? Does anyone her do this?
Often, because I leave plenty of water in my brush to build the load off a puck, then face lather after a shower.

I rarely have to add water to the brush/soap while loading. Maybe water my face on the second pass if the lather’s too thick.

And I prioritize slickness over cushion but can have both with my soaps. It works for me
 

WThomas0814

Ditto, ditto
Soap makes your skin slippery so the edge slides over it and only cuts the hair. You want the hair soft, the edge cuts it more easily. Provided, of course, you have a good sharp edge!

Soap and water softens hair, regardless of 100 year old opinion.
Sink and faucet vs basin, maybe. I jut can't imagine it.
 
Decided to give it a try today. Its a bit hard to say if there was a definitive difference. Cause I felt like using my DE instead of my SE for the shave, which is an adjustable to boot. That I tried a different setting on than usual. Did some touch ups with the SE though.

There wasn't that much of a difference really. I think I got a closer shave on a few spots, but I suspect that is the DE's doing. Keep in mind that I wet the brush under the sink and face lathered though. So some water is probably bound to come with the territory in this regard. Some nicks did happen, but again, different razor than usual, different setting, and to be fair I had a few spots from the last shave, that is prone to getting nicked again. 😅

An old school barber in Norway, that I often mention doesn't even use preshaves. He argues that hot water over the face is enough, which I have also tried. Found this to also work, so while I still use preshaves it doesn't exactly surprise me that too much prep may not be needed for everybody, at least not for me. That being said I use the preshave both pre and post shave. And yes, I skipped the preshave part before the shave this round too. So just soap straight on the face.

Gonna give it a try with my Schick later.
 
It sounds like there are theories put forth in the book that haven’t stood the test of time.

In general, I don’t use a shaving soap. I use shaving creams,(Proraso, Cremo,) or in the case of Van Der Hagen, shave butter. I don’t think they dry out the whiskers but they work better than the times I have tried soaps.

The statement about how only 10% of the safety razors sold at that time are still in use seems to have swung the other direction over the years. Mr. Gillette is probably laughing in his grave. 😉
 
Mr. Gillette`s grandchildren and great-grandchildren are certainly laughing now.

But if major insurrection/war happens people with straights will laugh at the dummies with DE safety razors - that`s why I have both and used cut-throats as a teenager before using fashionable multi-blade cartridge junk.

I might post the full pamphlet, it`s not copyrighted and it`s not too long.
 
Soap makes your skin slippery so the edge slides over it and only cuts the hair. You want the hair soft, the edge cuts it more easily. Provided, of course, you have a good sharp edge!

Soap and water softens hair, regardless of 100 year old opinion.
Not if it’s cold water, my experience with cold water makes the hair more brittle for a cleaner cut and I have been shaving this way for over fifty years. I tried hot water and hot towels after joining B and B , made my skin irritated and prone to nics and weepers, so for me it’s not worth it. In the late 1970s I went a few barbers for the straight razor shave experience and the towels and lather were room temperature and they were all good shaves. Sorry for the long winded response
 
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