I'd get a cheap lighted loupe and look at the edge before I did anything else.
How to Make a Straight Razor Mild
- Thread starter Dominic
- Start date
I meant non-finishers in general. The grit specifics would depend on the extent of the edge damage. For normal shave wear (which happens much faster if you ever use a high angle BTW), certainly not the 1000 grit bevel setter. I'd probably try something in the 6000-8000 range if it was really minor, but most times I'd probably drop back to 3000. Specifically, the Shapton Glass 3000, which I consider to be a magnificent midrange stone in a razor sequence. Then on to the SG 8000 HR (another great stone), then the finisher.
To me mild=less sharp. Coticules give me less sharp edges compared to synthetics.
A well honed coticule edge is the smoothest edge I’ve ever felt. It’s also the hardest to learn/achieve, for me.
CrOx/FeOx on balsa leave a harsher feeling edge than CBN and Diamond at the .5, .25 micron range For me. Trying Slash’s .1 diamond on balsa was revelatory for me on the smoothness/comfort with extraordinary keenness front if going that route.
back when, on film, I found stopping at 1 micron, and then wet printer paper under the film was just right. The slacked strop, or wet paper under the film for cushioning convexes the edge a bit, and does smooth it. Eventually, the edge will need to be reset to a flat plane without any convexity.
Slash’s .1 stropping on balsa post shave does seem to maintain an edge without a need for a rehone or further work.
if a razor’s tugging, for me, that’s a ”it needs to be honed now” indication. The sooner the better, and results in less work. It may just need a trip to the finisher for a touch up, it may need a trip through the mid ranges then a finisher.
CrOx/FeOx on balsa leave a harsher feeling edge than CBN and Diamond at the .5, .25 micron range For me. Trying Slash’s .1 diamond on balsa was revelatory for me on the smoothness/comfort with extraordinary keenness front if going that route.
back when, on film, I found stopping at 1 micron, and then wet printer paper under the film was just right. The slacked strop, or wet paper under the film for cushioning convexes the edge a bit, and does smooth it. Eventually, the edge will need to be reset to a flat plane without any convexity.
Slash’s .1 stropping on balsa post shave does seem to maintain an edge without a need for a rehone or further work.
if a razor’s tugging, for me, that’s a ”it needs to be honed now” indication. The sooner the better, and results in less work. It may just need a trip to the finisher for a touch up, it may need a trip through the mid ranges then a finisher.
I just have to put in my two cents...
Find a better soap! I did a lot of testing and spending of funds that I shouldn't have, but I got lots of soap now. Ha. Thanks to RayClem. Ha. But I learned a lot about soap! Thanks, Ray.
Soap that is a little thicker can help with more cushion, plus a lot of slickness. Of course next to no pressure and a quality edge can feel like it won't cut you. When you learn to hone to that point then the blade slips thru whiskers like butter. But be sure you are using a great soap! If you make a lather and after a couple of minutes it is fading away/drying out, then find a better soap.
Find a better soap! I did a lot of testing and spending of funds that I shouldn't have, but I got lots of soap now. Ha. Thanks to RayClem. Ha. But I learned a lot about soap! Thanks, Ray.
Soap that is a little thicker can help with more cushion, plus a lot of slickness. Of course next to no pressure and a quality edge can feel like it won't cut you. When you learn to hone to that point then the blade slips thru whiskers like butter. But be sure you are using a great soap! If you make a lather and after a couple of minutes it is fading away/drying out, then find a better soap.
One of the things I like most about straight shaving is being able to make the edge just the way I like it.
As you say, when DE shaving you can alternate blade manufacturers to find what your face likes best but the great thing about straight shaving is that you make the edge bespoke to yourself so take it’s EXACTLY how you like it.
There are many abrasives to try from the laser beam sharp diamond pasted balsa strops to the buttery smooth natural stones such as coticules, Arkansas, slates and Japanese naturals. If a stone is a little too crisp then you can thicken the slurry or do fewer laps etc.
But in the end, with perseverance and developed insight you find yourself able to make a razors badge which is exactly how you want it.
As you say, when DE shaving you can alternate blade manufacturers to find what your face likes best but the great thing about straight shaving is that you make the edge bespoke to yourself so take it’s EXACTLY how you like it.
There are many abrasives to try from the laser beam sharp diamond pasted balsa strops to the buttery smooth natural stones such as coticules, Arkansas, slates and Japanese naturals. If a stone is a little too crisp then you can thicken the slurry or do fewer laps etc.
But in the end, with perseverance and developed insight you find yourself able to make a razors badge which is exactly how you want it.
Get a coticule and you'll get as mild a razor as you can get.
That's true, but I'm finding that "just the way I like it" is to have about 6 different edges on different razors at any given time, so I can choose my edge style for the day.
After removing the "micro chips"or"burr", it will leave a vertex, creating a
new smooth shaving edge, will not cut the toilet paper, reduce the damage to
the skin, pass the edge test of your own habits, and shave smoothly.
new smooth shaving edge, will not cut the toilet paper, reduce the damage to
the skin, pass the edge test of your own habits, and shave smoothly.
