I've restored 5 brushes already, and they all turned great. Although I've seen some brushes here were the knot is considerably deeper than mine. Is there a reason for that? How deep do you put your knots in the handle?
Agree. I love a strong backbone, but Maggard Razors' 2-band badger knots have plenty, so no need to put it deeper to get more backbone. Although regarding the silicone, I've read conflicting reports that whilst it might help you re-do a brush if needed, is not as durable as Epoxy, and it might get loose and fall. Out of my 5 restore jobs, 2 were made with silicone, and I'm always checking the knot if is still good to go before shaving.Basically you move the knot up or down depending on what you want the brush to end up like. There is no magic depth because of the factors mentioned above. A very important factor is the fullness and loft of the knot before you start.
Personally, I like a lot of loft and usually end up adding spacers under the knot to get it higher.
The real tip here is to set the knot with silicon so you can easily pull it out and try a different loft until you find your personal sweet spot for that particular knot and handle.
One of my favorite brushes (perhaps my favorite) is a 30 mm Silvertip set at 70 mm of loft.
You don't know what you are missing if you don't experiment.
Got it, well I just used part epoxy/part silicon for my Ace Silvertips. I put a base of epoxy until I reached the proper depth, let it dry, and used a bit of silicon to glue the knot. I think I'm going to leave them like that for a while, and see if they hold. I don't want to risk damaging the knot when I pull it out.I use epoxy as I'm confident with the loft I'm aiming to attain. My recommendation about silicon is to only use it temporarily while you play around with the loft. Once you dial it in, pull the knot out one last time, clean things up, and set it with epoxy.