I got a cheap Gold Dollar straight and fixed the geometry on it so it'll hone correctly and got a much better edge but still not great shaving edge on it. I did 75 laps with no pressure on 4 different stones, 1k, 6k, 8k, 12k, and 60 more laps on a canvas strop with Chromium Oxide on it. It looks reall good but still won't pass a hanging hair test. Any ideas on how to make it better?
Honing not working
- Thread starter ZeroMinusOne
- Start date
75 laps on the 1k is meaningless. You need to stay on the 1k until the 1k work is done. The Key - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-key.154799/
Why people continue to buy these and expect a decent razor is beyond me.
Good luck with your quest.
- Thread starter
- #4
Didn't buy it for a good shave. Have a Boker Silver Steel for that. Bought it to practice honing so I wouldn't screw up my good ones. I also have an older Gold Dollar that shaves very well
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
You need to test for bevel set at 1k - 4k. A set bevel at 2-4k should pass HHT. Once the bevel is set, the rest of the job is 10-15 minutes. Of the bevel isn’t set, you’ll never get there.
- Thread starter
- #6
So keep it on the 1k until it cuts armhair. No downward pressure or heavy pressure?
I use a bit of pressure on 1k at start but when I am about done there is not much. I can usually get the 1k to cut hairs but sometimes I use the fingernail test (few strokes on 1k after just to bring edge back up to snuff). Finishing stone I don't think you would need more than 20 strokes if everything was done correctly. For your boker I would try and find out how many strokes on the 12k (after blade is finished on 8k) gives it the perfect edge (to avoid overhoning/underhoning and guesswork in the future). Could do same thing for how many strokes on the 8k after the 6k as well.
I just sort of finish razors on when I think they are ready based on feel/how easily they cut my arm hairs. Although I finish with different natural stones and different razors. If I were using just 1-2 razors through synthetic progression I would try and find the magic amount of strokes on the 12k that works after the edge is good on the 8k (and or strokes on the CroX as well).
I just sort of finish razors on when I think they are ready based on feel/how easily they cut my arm hairs. Although I finish with different natural stones and different razors. If I were using just 1-2 razors through synthetic progression I would try and find the magic amount of strokes on the 12k that works after the edge is good on the 8k (and or strokes on the CroX as well).
1k will easily shave arm hair at skin level, it will be very "grabby" with zero pressure.
My comments were such because you are gauging your honing with a cheap inferior razor steel and using that as a guide for your honing.
How does one relate to the other?
Even if you are just trying get your stroke down pat I would suggest using 1 layer of tape on a decent razor.
Gold Dollar and ZY razors are actually decent steel they just have crappy edges on them and geometry issues that need correction but after that they shave just as well as any other.
I have several that have been honed to death and they are very decent shavers
My point exactly! Every so often the myth is resurrected. Lol.
My first straight was from you years ago and I gifted that away along with brush and soap to a beginner and then per Alfredo’s direction I ordered sever ZY razors and they were at best letter openers when I received them but then I honed them like I hated them and once a bevel was set the test was easy and all I did was 1K-12K then JNAT and the shave was excellent and I thought that’s pretty nice for a $7 razor
ditto
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Generally, the actual number of laps is is not what gets the bevel set. It could take 30. It could take 1000. A razor with the bevel properly set on a 1k grit stone or on 12u or 9u film will be sharper than a sharp pocketknife. It will grab when pulled across a thumbnail or thumbpad and will cut deeply into the thumbpad if you aren't careful. It will easily slice through a cherry tomato with only a very slight pull. It will shave arm hair easily when stroked down the forerarm and touching the skin. And it will pass any of these tests over the entire length of the edge, with the possible and permissible exceptions of maybe the last 3/16" at the toe or heel. Any part of the edge that cannot pass these tests at the 1k stage, will NOT acquire a shave-ready edge.
If you look in the stickies at the top of the Hones/Honing forum page, you will see a sticky thread named "Newbie Honing Compendium". I very much suggest you read it completely, initially the part and the sub thread about bevel setting. The burr method of setting the bevel is not the only way to do it but it is as close to foolproof as the process can be made, and makes only very modest demands of the honer's skill or subjective judgement. So if you try again and still don't get it, consider the burr method. It takes too many column inches to describe in enough detail to ensure success, so it is in its own thread and I am telling you where to find it instead of boring the regulars with another longwinded repetition of it.
If you look in the stickies at the top of the Hones/Honing forum page, you will see a sticky thread named "Newbie Honing Compendium". I very much suggest you read it completely, initially the part and the sub thread about bevel setting. The burr method of setting the bevel is not the only way to do it but it is as close to foolproof as the process can be made, and makes only very modest demands of the honer's skill or subjective judgement. So if you try again and still don't get it, consider the burr method. It takes too many column inches to describe in enough detail to ensure success, so it is in its own thread and I am telling you where to find it instead of boring the regulars with another longwinded repetition of it.
Make sure you know what setting the bevel means.
Then learn how to set the bevel.
Stop counting laps, it's pointless.
Make sure your stones are flat.
Proceed.
The bevel is set, when it's set. Until it's set, it's not set. An almost set bevel is not set. You can't hope it's set, you need to know it's set. you can pray that it's set but unless it's actualy set, it's not set. Thinking you spent enough time on it, so it must be set, almost always means it's not set. When you can manage a 3 pass shave off your bevel setter, it's probably set.
You need to use pressure on your bevel setter. You'll also need pressure, during the midrange too.
I'd recommend watching some honing videos, like maybe 40 or 50 of them.
Maybe check out a few that focus on setting the bevel.
Seriously. Knowledge is power.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
When me and this guy agree on anything, its a universal truth. Take heed, OP. Get the bevel set.
GDs are great for practice honing and not much else IMO, but that aside you’ve gotten solid advice. No BS 95% of the total work in honing is on the bevel setting stone in the initial honing session.
Also whatever you end up trying, buying more stones is never the solution to an issue. It sounds like you’re all set with a great starter kit so stick with it on the bevel setting stone until the thing is very sharp and then climb up grits.
Personally after the bevel is formed I usually put in a lot of work on the ~3mu (5k ish) stone also, because that’s the fastest cutter that is in the refining range vs just stripping metal. Someone else mentioned having a fully set bevel at 4K range passing HHT very well, and that’s what I’m saying here too. Past that point it doesn’t take very many laps on finishing stones to get a comfortable edge.
Personally after the bevel is formed I usually put in a lot of work on the ~3mu (5k ish) stone also, because that’s the fastest cutter that is in the refining range vs just stripping metal. Someone else mentioned having a fully set bevel at 4K range passing HHT very well, and that’s what I’m saying here too. Past that point it doesn’t take very many laps on finishing stones to get a comfortable edge.
