Help with prep routine

[The Blackadder]

I’ve been DE shaving for a couple of months now and I think my unsuccessful shaves (which have been many) are due to lack of prep. My last shave was so bad (tons of tugging and irritation) I’ve taken almost two weeks off to let my skin rest. I can whip up an acceptable lather and although my shaving angle still needs work, I feel tugging even in areas which are not overly complicated. However, the worst part is always my jawline and chin. Even with a sharp blade and good lather the razor just won’t glide and start tugging a lot in those areas. I’ve mapped my beard and follow the growth, and just shave with the grain. My beard is not coarse (not from what I’ve seen in other cases), but my skin is kind of special due to a condition. Towards my nose it’s oily and easily swells, and towards my jaw it’s extremely dry (it peels off if I don’t use hydrating lotions). So hot things like hot shower, hot water and hot towels won’t really work for my face. This is what I’ve tried so far as prep:

- Wash with a cleanser
- Wash with glycerine soap
- Massage bloomed water used in a hard soap
- Massage with soap suds produced when I load the brush

I mostly bowl lather, the brush kind of upsets my skin if I lather on my face. I do have some Proraso pre shave samples I could try, also Cremo which I know some people use as a preshave. Would you recommend other products? Pre shave creams, oils, the famous Cube from PAA?

Thanks in advance

 

[NorthernSoul]

There's some trial and error involved, since I think everyone's skin is just different. The main thing is to clean off the oil layer and hydrate the beard. It is good to avoid overly hot water. It is drying and can sensitize the skin.

The simplest prep is a warm shower. If your facial skin is sensitive, I'd suggest a neutral cleaner like Cerave with warm water. Work the cleaner in with a soft synthetic shaving brush if you have it. Soak a washcloth in warm water and let it sit on the beard for two or three minutes. If you can face lather, I believe it will improve the prep results.

Proraso pre-shave is pretty good. It would be worth trying, at least. If you are sensitive to menthol, there is the Proraso White. The PAA Cube is really good, IME. You can get it in different scents with or without menthol. I sometimes use a neutral unscented shaving cream for prep, instead of the Cube. It gets mostly rinsed off before lathering up with shaving soap.

 

[ButterfaceX]

I have very sensitive skin but have been shaving since I was 16 , now 66..
But as the great Northern soul stated , everyone face/skin is very different.
Now what I have learned along this long tradition of hair execution is it is normally not just one thing. Usually a combo of many. And also very difficult to troubleshoot because of lack of facts.
One fact I do know, is you are still new to DE shaving. Flag one, also now sure what razor and blade you are using. Everything matters. I could be surmising all day here.
First , you need to know how to correctly use your tool/de. Maybe that blade is not working for you and the razor. Maybe you are shaving with the incorrect angle (or both).
That could be part of the pull..
Technic, skills, patience, practice, consistency are king.
That you can not buy. Have you done a face map, do you know how your stubble grows? So I do not have a silver bullet for you.
I could tell you in length what works for me but it is what works best for me and took time to figure it out. Also faces and skin, stubble changes as you age. What may work now.. down the road you will have to adapt.
Start will a plan, focus on the process, be methodical and consistent ...but hell...have and make it fun.
Changes, try only one at a time.
You will get it..
BFX

 

[Roedeer]

Soak a washcloth in warm water and let it sit on the beard for two or three minutes.

Yes, that sounds like a sensible and milder version of my "hot washcloth, about a minute" version.

Getting the stubble properly hydrated doesn't need to beat the clock, it's just a good thing to do.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I have multiple answers for you.

Firstly, as a newcomer, a lot of the tugging you encounter is likely to be angle related, and whether the blade is on or off the skin. No amount of prep will compensate for the blade cutting high. Also, the areas you are struggling with, are the areas that aren't flat, and maintaining the angle throughout the curves will take practice. (See link below for better explanation and help)

As for the prep, don't overcook it. Softening the whiskers is all well and good, but you don't want to be softening the face, and making that more vulnerable. The wash with glycerine soap alone is probably sufficient for prepping the stubble, but you know your skin better than me, so don't limit yourself to just that process, if it doesn't feel enough.

Irritation can come from either of those things being wrong. Either over softening the skin and making that more vulnerable (which could go some way to explain why you were getting brush burn from face lathering), or from tugging at the hair and causing inflammation deeper in the skin. So you'll need to work on gradually getting both right for the most comfortable results. There's other things that can make your face unhappy too, but I go through this in my guide (linked below)

You'll find more hints, tips, and troubleshooting, in the first four posts on this thread...

The Wanderer's Guide To DE Shaving

Part One I was self taught with a DE razor 25 years ago, and had to figure out a lot of things the hard way. I learned a lot of things over the years, but wish there had been an experienced DE shaver who could have taught me the basics early on. This guide is offered so that you can get to...

www.badgerandblade.com

... and although it might not solve every problem you might encounter, it should point you well on your way towards some great shaves.

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!!

My summary:
1. Good hydration of your skin and beard.
2. Maintain an optimal razor angle.
3. NO pressure!

Sounds simple. Unfortunately, it takes awhile to master.

Stick with this and you will get the results you want!!

 

[Quaznoid]

If you have doubts about your lather, use canned shaving creme. There’s no shame in using whatever works for you. Work on your shaving technique and maybe come back to lathering, or not. You’re still saving money over cart shaving.

 

[spacemonkey42]

In addition to the great advice above, if you're feeling tugging, perhaps you need a sharper blade? A sharper blade with a light touch and fewer passes can also be gentle on the skin. Good luck!

 

[Swank]

I wash my face with soap and water, whatever soap Puppy Love Lips has brought home. Then I put 10-11 drops of olive oil that I've flavored with peppermint oil on my face to soften the whiskers. It seems to help. Then I put on a layer of either Cremo or Cella (Cella is awesome) and then a layer of Proraso. The Proraso goes over the Cremo/Cella. So I'm using two products at the same time. I think I like a lot of slickness. I'm using Feather blades these days and like an earlier poster mentioned, use no pressure. Just the weight of the razor. A very deft touch IOW. I do two passes, carefully and very very slowly. I do a final polishing if I find stubble, and I usually do.

For me, my trick is the olive oil and Cremo/Cella with a layer of Proraso suds over that.

Then I use a spare few drops of Afta, very tiny amount, and top it off with one of my modest collection of rocking-out-loud aftershaves like Clubman or Whiskey Woods. Lately I'm partial to Whiskey Woods. Then I bask in my post-shave nirvana.

I'm not sure I really need the Afta, but I have zero neck redness now. It's a splurge and a huge satisfaction when I look in the mirror and see a damn near perfect shave and no redness.

 

[ButterfaceX]

I wash my face with soap and water, whatever soap Puppy Love Lips has brought home. Then I put 10-11 drops of olive oil that I've flavored with peppermint oil on my face to soften the whiskers. It seems to help. Then I put on a layer of either Cremo or Cella (Cella is awesome) and then a layer of Proraso. The Proraso goes over the Cremo/Cella. So I'm using two products at the same time. I think I like a lot of slickness. I'm using Feather blades these days and like an earlier poster mentioned, use no pressure. Just the weight of the razor. A very deft touch IOW. I do two passes, carefully and very very slowly. I do a final polishing if I find stubble, and I usually do.

For me, my trick is the olive oil and Cremo/Cella with a layer of Proraso suds over that.

Then I use a spare few drops of Afta, very tiny amount, and top it off with one of my modest collection of rocking-out-loud aftershaves like Clubman or Whiskey Woods. Lately I'm partial to Whiskey Woods. Then I bask in my post-shave nirvana.

I'm not sure I really need the Afta, but I have zero neck redness now. It's a splurge and a huge satisfaction when I look in the mirror and see a damn near perfect shave and no redness.

Good to hear...
I also am a pre shave oil user. Protects the skin, softens the stubble, little base glide.
The Afta, not sure it would be my choice:
Water, SD Alcohol 40-B, PEG-8 Distearate PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl Glycol Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, PEG-2 Stearate Se, Allantoin, BHT, Disodium EDTA, D&C Green No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 5.

 

[brucered]

Keep the prep simple, a hot shower is all that is needed. Shave right after that, splash with hot water again before applying each pass of lather.

Preshaves are fine if you haven't figured out how to make a quality lather or use a subpar soap/cream. Contrary to many thoughts, they do NOT soften your whiskers.

Soap/Cream lather is the foundation for all shaves, DE, Straight or other. Making quality lather and figuring out that works for you, takes time, practice and patience. Proper lather can make or break any shave.

Limit the amount of passes, 3 max, 2 would be better.

Pull your skin tight.

Only go ATG on areas you know it works. Even after almost 15y of wet shaving, I still don't go ATG on my chin or upper lip.

If a DE isn't working, try the single blade Gillette Guard (eBay from India). It's an amazing cartridge razor that will get you as close a shave as a DE with no effort and you have to try had to get irritation with. I just finished 9 months of using one.

Stop rotating razors, soaps, brushes and blades. Stick with one setup. I spent a few years rotating things, now they I use the same setup daily (usually for months or longet) I rarely if ever, get a bad shave.

If you have a medical condition that affects your skin when shaving, speak to a Dermatologist.

We all had bad shaves when starting, er all had faces of redness and days of recovering from bad shaves.

 

[ButterfaceX]

Interesting : Preshaves are fine if you haven't figured out how to make a quality lather or use a subpar soap/cream. Contrary to many thoughts, they do NOT soften your whiskers.
Do you the science or data to back this: Preshaves(oils) do not soften?
And they do not moisturize the skin and stubble, also may a little glide depending on the oil/oils used ?
( note: for me I use a few fast absorbing oils - heavy ones can cause razor clogging and conflict with your soap (cheap or high end)
There is no one size fits all and it is the old YMMV..
I know what works for me.
I hope all finds what works for you.
BFX

 

[Goblin]

If you haven't already read one of my posts where I bang on about properly hydrating the whiskers and the science behind it, you can do that here. I am sure folks are bored of hearing it, but it bears repeating, especially since it sounds to me like you are maybe just giving your face a quick wash rather than letting the beard get really hydrated. You don't have to have use hot water, but lower temperatures are going to mean that a longer hydration period is required.

The other thing I want to suggest, especially for picking off those difficult hairs on the jawline, is bull-frogging combined with the Gillette Slide (and a VERY light touch). I absolutely know what you are talking about that it can be hard to clean up those areas without tugging and irritation - for me, a direct N to S pass on that area would is about 45° off hard ATG, which my skin can't handle. The Gillette Slide makes a pass in that direction less aggressive and more efficient, so it becomes tolerable.

 

[SalS]

Just use Cremo if you have it. It is vastly better than any soap or cream requiring a brush. Jack Black is better but Cremo is a great product.

 

[ButterfaceX]

If you haven't already read one of my posts where I bang on about properly hydrating the whiskers and the science behind it, you can do that here. I am sure folks are bored of hearing it, but it bears repeating, especially since it sounds to me like you are maybe just giving your face a quick wash rather than letting the beard get really hydrated. You don't have to have use hot water, but lower temperatures are going to mean that a longer hydration period is required.

The other thing I want to suggest, especially for picking off those difficult hairs on the jawline, is bull-frogging combined with the Gillette Slide (and a VERY light touch). I absolutely know what you are talking about that it can be hard to clean up those areas without tugging and irritation - for me, a direct N to S pass on that area would is about 45° off hard ATG, which my skin can't handle. The Gillette Slide makes a pass in that direction less aggressive and more efficient, so it becomes tolerable.

Thanks,
For me, I absolutely have no problems. I normal shower before my shave.
No issues with hydration anywhere in the process.
Hopefully that link can help others in need, in search of the best practices in the shaving process (per-during-post) which could work for them...
BFX

 

[sarimento1]

on top of many good reco's above...
-if jaw/chin are problem areas, try using some light pre-shave oil in those spots as you prep.
-or go very light over jaw/chin with your razor, perhaps clean up there with a cartridge

 

[Ron R]

My prep for every shave is the same and good chance it will not change into the future.
1- skin can be dehydrated in the morning so I always have a glass or 2 of water first thing, then I wash my face with warm water and then I brush wash my face(designated Cashmere synthetic Yaqi shave brush ) with CeraVe bar soap (5-10 seconds brush load is all that is needed, a CeraVe bar last 10 months). Then rinse my face with cold or warm water mostly, this is very enjoyable routine I have found over the years.(not hot water anymore)
2- Then I will smear a dollop of Aloe Vera Gel to my beard area and prepare my lather in bowl and take a picture for different threads I visit to start the morning(retired). Gillette recommends a defoliated clean face before shaving begins.
3- wet the face a little and apply lather right over the Aloe Vera gel and brush lather over area to be shaved for at least 1 minute and then start to shave, I can not hydrate my whiskers any better than that has been my conclusion. After each pass I will rinse with cold water to relax the skin. Been doing this for over 4 years now and its not perfect routine but it works good enough has been my conclusion + I daily shave.(Proraso makes a pre-shave cream also but I find my inexpensive products very good also.)

Lather that is too dry is not as good as lather that is wetter for better glide IMO(find that sweet spot lather). Brush the soap on face for a least 1 minute before shaving will help soften the whiskers for better snipping also. Shave soap is slightly alkaline and helps soften the beard, Speick stick or Tabac are very good soaps for softening beards and have excellent lather qualities IMO.

Have some great shaves!

 

[brucered]

Interesting : Preshaves are fine if you haven't figured out how to make a quality lather or use a subpar soap/cream. Contrary to many thoughts, they do NOT soften your whiskers.
Do you the science or data to back this: Preshaves(oils) do not soften?
And they do not moisturize the skin and stubble, also may a little glide depending on the oil/oils used ?
( note: for me I use a few fast absorbing oils - heavy ones can cause razor clogging and conflict with your soap (cheap or high end)
There is no one size fits all and it is the old YMMV..
I know what works for me.
I hope all finds what works for you.
BFX

If you are asking me, I'll ask you first. Do you have any scientific proof that preshaves soften the whiskers?

I agree with using them if you need more sickness or razor gliding aid. But again, if you use a quality soap/cream and have the proper amount of water incorporated, they are not needed. Many use them as a crutch for poor lather.

 

[Rivers23]

I'll throw in my 2 cents and what worked for me.

First off, all those cleaning products dry out the skin and irritate it prior to your face even being touched by the blade. Just splash some lukewarm water on your face before you start lathering. I guess using preshave products can't hurt.

Secondly, use a sharper blade. A Gillette Platinum or a German Wilkie that are available in every supermarket are perfectly fine. You don't need a blade sampler, you won't discover some mystical hidden gem blade from a factory in rural Bangladesh.

Thirdly, don't press too much and don't overstretch your skin. Relax your face. Actually, for my neck I found that lowering my chin and puffing the skin like a frog is much better than stretching it like crazy.

Lastly, don't over water your lather. Water makes it fluffier and it loses all cushion and glide. Make it a bit pasty. Shake the water out of the brush before lathering, dip the tips in the water 2-3 times during lathering.

 

[ButterfaceX]

If you are asking me, I'll ask you first. Do you have any scientific proof that preshaves soften the whiskers?

I agree with using them if you need more sickness or razor gliding aid. But again, if you use a quality soap/cream and have the proper amount of water incorporated, they are not needed. Many use them as a crutch for poor lather.

Hi, well I stated that it just works for me.
Been practicing this for a few decades now.
I received a ton help and info from my wife who was a cosmetologist & dermatologist.
I had to execute a lot of self testing over the years, to find the best that works for me.
Before I met her, I was originally just focused on the shave process.
But she guided me with what I call and she laughs at is overall "face management".

So I can not claim that nor have scientific data to say: Contrary to many thoughts, they do soften "your" whiskers.
Never said that ( for me).
Every face, skin type, stubble, hair density, thickness is different....not even getting into all the other variables!
I can claim they do soften (what I use for oils) "my" gorilla dense stubble (for me - not your).

Also on:
"But again, if you use a quality soap/cream and have the proper amount of water incorporated, they are not needed.
Many use them as a crutch for poor lather."

Maybe from "your" perspective , not for me.
My face, my choice, my shave...

Bottom-line there so many variables in shaving.
I prefer to go with "for me" that the "your".

Cheers
BFX

Anyhow, please enjoy the day and the shave!