As stated earlier, it is probably your blade. A sampler pack is definitly the way to go because the blade that works for one person may not be the best blade for another. Also, it has been my experience that some blades work better in particular razors and not so good in others so it's not always accurate to say a certain brand is "the" blade to get, too many variables to consider. Derby's are a perfect example for me. I tried them in my various models of SS's, open comb, etc and couldn't get a decent shave without irritating my face. I didn't see why they were considered in such high regards. Then I put one in my Fatboy and got the most amazing shave ever. That is the only razor I use Derby's in now. Prior to finding that match I was never going to use Derby's again. So try multiple brands and see what works for you. Your pre-shave prep sounds great. The only thing I personally would change is the shave itself. I find that WTG, XTG, and then ATG give me the best, smoothest shave. It's the ATG that puts the finishing touch on it. Good luck and don't get discouraged, it takes time.
Help! New to the game, very thick and rough beard...
- Thread starter Terdinus Asus
- Start date
+1 on the Feathers.
Merkur blades suck, period.
Get a blade sampler pack from westcoastshaving.com, which will include Feathers.
Also...after you are used to DE shaving, you may want to try an SE razor (i.e., GEM). The thicker/stiffer blades of an SE have done wonders for my thick beard...I get BBS everytime now with no irritation, which was not the case after using several DEs. I still love some of my DEs, but my GEM 1912 is now my go-to razor.
Get a blade sampler pack from westcoastshaving.com, which will include Feathers.
Also...after you are used to DE shaving, you may want to try an SE razor (i.e., GEM). The thicker/stiffer blades of an SE have done wonders for my thick beard...I get BBS everytime now with no irritation, which was not the case after using several DEs. I still love some of my DEs, but my GEM 1912 is now my go-to razor.
In addition to all the recommendations for a better blade, I'd also recommend a heavier razor, and possibly and open-comb head. The 23c is a fine razor, and it was my first DE over 2 years ago, but it's not as aggressive as you need. Take a look at the Bull Mastiff by our own cooncatbab here. An adjustable like a vintage Gillette Fatboy or a Merkur Progress would also be a better choice.
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Try with some other type of Blade. Gillettes 7 o'clock, or maybe the scary feather. Merkur as far as i know is excellent in making razors not blades.
B
BrightFutur
Ditch the Merkur blades for Derby's, Feathers or IPs. As others have mentioned a sample pack would be good.
Other than that? Two words:
Slant Bar!
Other than that? Two words:
Slant Bar!
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks everyone for all the tips. I've ordered the sampler pack from WestCoast and will let you know how it all goes soon.
I added in the other side of the XTG pass, so now I have WTG, XTG, XTG. Three passes. The shave was cut free, the beard looked better, but still kind of rough when rubbed in any direction against or with grain. Today I also decided to see what it would be like to go against the grain. I tried it on a little section of my beard. Yeeesh! If I thought the fresh Merkur blade dragged WTG, it felt like it was literally pulling my beard out from the root ATG. Suffice it to say, I decided not to go further without new blades.
I added in the other side of the XTG pass, so now I have WTG, XTG, XTG. Three passes. The shave was cut free, the beard looked better, but still kind of rough when rubbed in any direction against or with grain. Today I also decided to see what it would be like to go against the grain. I tried it on a little section of my beard. Yeeesh! If I thought the fresh Merkur blade dragged WTG, it felt like it was literally pulling my beard out from the root ATG. Suffice it to say, I decided not to go further without new blades.
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I'm also someone with a coarse beard, I recommend feather blades too. If I'm shaving with a double edge, that's all I bother using these days, a feather blade in an adjustable, red tip or HD rocket.
But I also recommend getting a single edge GEM and trying those 1912 models out.
But I also recommend getting a single edge GEM and trying those 1912 models out.
- Thread starter
- #29
While I wait for the sample pack to arrive, I decided to do some experimentation with my tough beard.
Alkali (bases that can dissolve in water) tend to soften organics (this is why meat tenderizers to tend to lean alkaline)...so why not ditch the pH neutral glycerin of Proraso and actually see if it works on hair? (I'm a chemical engineering major, don't be frightened by my thinking).
So I pulled out a box of Arm and Hammer baking soda, mixed with some warm water and applied the creamy material to my face with my hands. I didn't use the badger brush because I don't know what it would do to the brush. There's a little bit of micro-grit in the concoction that feels like it's exfoliating.
Anyways I let it sit on my face for about 3 minutes and I began to shave.
There was a profound difference in the performance of the blade. (This was the same blade I used yesterday). The dragging was not there. It was as if the hair was just sort of bowing to the blade. I'm THOROUGHLY impressed, and the quality of the shave is probably the best I've gotten yet.
Unfortunately there is one small catch that I sort of remembered as I was shaving, and good thing too. Luckily it did did not happen today, but I know what it feels like. You do NOT want baking soda anywhere near a bleeding wound, no matter how small. It's a great disinfectant but it will bring you to tears.
Alkali (bases that can dissolve in water) tend to soften organics (this is why meat tenderizers to tend to lean alkaline)...so why not ditch the pH neutral glycerin of Proraso and actually see if it works on hair? (I'm a chemical engineering major, don't be frightened by my thinking).
So I pulled out a box of Arm and Hammer baking soda, mixed with some warm water and applied the creamy material to my face with my hands. I didn't use the badger brush because I don't know what it would do to the brush. There's a little bit of micro-grit in the concoction that feels like it's exfoliating.
Anyways I let it sit on my face for about 3 minutes and I began to shave.
There was a profound difference in the performance of the blade. (This was the same blade I used yesterday). The dragging was not there. It was as if the hair was just sort of bowing to the blade. I'm THOROUGHLY impressed, and the quality of the shave is probably the best I've gotten yet.
Unfortunately there is one small catch that I sort of remembered as I was shaving, and good thing too. Luckily it did did not happen today, but I know what it feels like. You do NOT want baking soda anywhere near a bleeding wound, no matter how small. It's a great disinfectant but it will bring you to tears.
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While I wait for the sample pack to arrive, I decided to do some experimentation with my tough beard.
Alkali (bases that can dissolve in water) tend to soften organics (this is why meat tenderizers to tend to lean alkaline)...so why not ditch the pH neutral glycerin of Proraso and actually see if it works on hair? (I'm a chemical engineering major, don't be frightened by my thinking).
So I pulled out a box of Arm and Hammer baking soda, mixed with some warm water and applied the creamy material to my face with my hands. I didn't use the badger brush because I don't know what it would do to the brush. There's a little bit of micro-grit in the concoction that feels like it's exfoliating.
Anyways I let it sit on my face for about 3 minutes and I began to shave.
There was a profound difference in the performance of the blade. (This was the same blade I used yesterday). The dragging was not there. It was as if the hair was just sort of bowing to the blade. I'm THOROUGHLY impressed, and the quality of the shave is probably the best I've gotten yet.
Unfortunately there is one small catch that I sort of remembered as I was shaving, and good thing too. Luckily it did did not happen today, but I know what it feels like. You do NOT want baking soda anywhere near a bleeding wound, no matter how small. It's a great disinfectant but it will bring you to tears.
That's an incredibly interesting post. What an awesome perspective to bring to shaving. So, the logical follow-up is to ask what shaving creams or soaps would lean alkaline, or rather what common (or uncommon) ingredients in a shaving product would be more alkaline?
Your'e doing fine...nothing to be scared about with the Feathers...just get them and take you're time.
With your'e sort of beard Iridium Supers are another fine sharp blade and later a weightier more aggressive razor might suit you more as mentioned above.
Don't get confused between Baking Soda and Baking Powder. Soda is Sodium Bicarbonate and a strong alkaline as mentioned and I use it with my toothpaste. I think Baking Powder has an acidifying agent so I wouldn't use that but I'll add a little Sodium Bicarb to the lather and see what happens. It'll probably produce too much air but we shall see. Interesting idea.
With your'e sort of beard Iridium Supers are another fine sharp blade and later a weightier more aggressive razor might suit you more as mentioned above.
Don't get confused between Baking Soda and Baking Powder. Soda is Sodium Bicarbonate and a strong alkaline as mentioned and I use it with my toothpaste. I think Baking Powder has an acidifying agent so I wouldn't use that but I'll add a little Sodium Bicarb to the lather and see what happens. It'll probably produce too much air but we shall see. Interesting idea.
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Get a sample pack, and try some other blades.
ACtually, all cold processed soaps will have a ph of betwen 9 and 10 while the pH of an aqueous baking soda solution (or a moist paste ofthe stuff) would only have a pH of 8.2 so the soap would soften the beard better if also allowed to sit for 3 minutes! Proraso is no longer soap based but is made from synthetic surfactants.
