Gentleman's Essentials - Basic Wardrobe and How to tie a tie/bowtie

[knlgskr]

I would avoid wearing wing tips with a suit. Bal Oxfords (closed at the bottom of the laces "vamp") are dressier than Blucher Oxford which are not but are fine for casual wear as are laceless i.e. "loafers".

Braces "suspenders" in perference to belts when wearing a coat, blazer, etc.

Gray shirts tend to make you look ill.

Ties, no wider than 3 1/2 inches unless a very active pattern such as paisley; then 3 inches.

When wearing a coat/jacket; 1 pattern, 2 solids.

 

[adamjaskie]

As far as ties in relation to your size, your tie should just touch your belt. If you can't do that without running out of tie when you're tying it, you should get extra long ties. It depends on your height and neck size. I'm 6 feet with a 17" neck, and a regular tie works fine for me, for reference.

 

[adamjaskie]

When choosing a sport coat/blazer whats the best way to match color? Any general rules of thumb?

Match to what?

I generally pick the suit or jacket I'm going to wear first, then match other stuff to that. Light blue or white shirts pretty much go with anything, so they're a safe bet. If you want to stray from that, there isn't really a "rule of thumb"; I generally wear brighter shirts like orange or pink with lighter jackets. Darker jackets work better with more subtle colours, like a light, almost buttery yellow, or lavender. Ties can pick up a colour from the shirt, or contrast with the shirt. They shouldn't be exactly the same colour, though. Pocket squares should contrast with your jacket, and either contrast with, or pick up a colour from your shirt and/or tie.

I wouldn't wear a shirt that's too close in color/shade to my jacket. Ties similar in color to your jacket are fine, but I would avoid wearing a fairly plain dark-coloured tie unless it was a similar color to my jacket (i.e. I wouldn't wear my black tie with charcoal squares on it with my navy suit, but I might wear it with my black suit).

You can wear multiple patterns at once, but you have to be REALLY careful. If the patterns are different enough in scale and design, it can work.

 

[TstebinsB]

Very nicely done, Will! Just a few things I'd add...

Trousers:
1. The waist should sit higher than casual pants or jeans. Remeber this during the fitting.
2. The back of the leg should be longer than the front. Your socks shouldn't be visible when you walk away.
3. They should have a trim fit. Yes, even if you've packed on a few.
4. If your trousers seem baggy or loose, most likely you're wearing them too low or they aren't trim enough.

Dress Shirts:
1. If the shirt collar is wrinkled on the rack, it's a sign of quick, future deterioration.
2. Thread count: 140 and higher.
3. Collar tabs: Don't buy a shirt without them. Nothing looks worse than a crinkled collar.
4. High quality shirts have the patterns aligned on both sides of a seam. It gives the impression of one, flowing fabric.

 

[Tabula rasa]

Excellent stuff in this thread, nicely done. Just a few thoughts:

Suits:
Dark gray or charcoal and dark navy, stay away from dark sold black unless you’re at a funeral.

Do not hang them folded on a hanger bar (put your ties on those) hang them on a wooden clip.

Socks:
Over the calf, must match shoe or trouser color.

I disagree with no black suits, solid black is fine for weddings etc. After all, ask yourself- what colour is a tuxedo or tails?

In my opinion it´s better to roll your ties instead of hanging them. Otherwise, you´re likely to stretch the back seam unnecessarily.

Socks- Feel free to add a little colour. In the nineteenth century, gentlemen could be a bit rebellious combining say, formal eveningwear with purple or gold socks. Why not do something differnt? (no Mickey Mouse socks please)

Undershirts: no disagreement here, but remember to tuck your undershirt into your underwear. Otherwise it bunches at your midsection and adds girth to your belly, something most of us don't want.

Ponit taken, but no thanks. I dont want anything inside my underwear other than my own bits. If your undershirt bunches, tuck it back in.

This is great. Regarding socks though, I have heard that you only wear black socks and red ones are okay if you want to make a statement. I don't know about matching them to your suit or shoe colour.

In general, it´s recommended that you match socks with trouser or shoes. But I feel a bit differently. Try matching grey/black suits/shoes with gold or purple socks. It´s a bit bolder, but it works

There is one thing that I think is missing, though. It should go without saying (though I've seen it more often than I care to), but all leather goods on your person should match. Belt, shoes, holster, wallet, etc. It looks rather bad when you have everything in black, except for the burgundy belt.

On a similar note, take the time to make sure the colors really do match. Brown shoes require a brown belt, but just any old brown belt probably won't match and will actually stand out worse for it. Light Brown and Dark Brown are not interchangeable.

I agree completely, except for the part about matching your wallet. Why? Are you going to be carrying your wallet around in your hand? But otherwise, yes. Might add briefcase as well if it´s leather.

In addition to your shoes and belt matching, you should match metals if you are wearing, say, a watch, or cuff links.

I like pocket squares and think more people should wear them. Pocket squares should pick up a colour from your tie or shirt, or be plain white. They should never be purchased in a matching set with your tie. All of mine are cotton; I don't like silk pocket squares. Don't bother with a careful, picky fold unless you're going for a very formal look. Just grab it by the center, shake it out, gather up the ends, and stuff it into your pocket with the center sticking up.

Things I don't like in modern "business casual" that I see all the time:
-Ties without something like a jacket/vest/sweater---it just looks silly to see your tie flopping around all over the place.
- Point/spread collar shirts worn with no tie and the top button undone---if you don't want to wear a tie, wear a button-down shirt. The collar points make the collar spread way out and it just looks silly.
- Ties worn slightly loose with the top button undone. Buy a shirt that fits, and button it up. Or don't wear a tie.

This is all excellent advice. I disagree with not using a point-collar shirt without a tie though. But then I´m not a big fan of button-downs. I also have no problem wearing a tie without a jacket/vest.

Avoid the black suit. It is the refuge of the damned. It is your way of saying "I don't know what sort of suit to wear, so I'll get this. I hear black is slimming. Everyone wears black, so it must be good." Everyone wears black suits, and shaves with multi-blade systems. 'Nuff said.

Hmm, not with you on this. While black is not the most imaginative choice, it just works.

When wearing a coat/jacket; 1 pattern, 2 solids.

Yes, but if you´re a bit daring you might try combining a pinstripe or another discretely patterned suit with a solid shirt and a patterned tie. Not two patterns next to each other though.

IMHO

 

[adamjaskie]

I don't like the way non-buttondown collars spread out when you don't button the top button. They seem to like to fall to the sides until they are spread out almost horizontally from the second button. If you're wearing a jacket it helps to hold the sides up and in place, but I just don't wear them if I'm not wearing a tie. Buttondowns seem to have a bit more structure to them that keeps the collar upright even when the top button is undone. They are a bit more casual, though, but then again so is going without a tie.

And I don't button them up all the way unless I'm wearing a tie.

 

[Anton von Tripp]

May I submit that a Windsor knot should be worn with a spread collar, a four-in hand or a small Windsor with a standard collar and that a four-in hand with a point.

Cordially, AvT.

 

[Kissfan113]

I guess I'm of an odd sort and a touch outdated, but my formalwear is generally of a victorian styled variant, white studded collar shirt, black pants, floral tooled suspenders, vest in paisleyesque print usually in either gold or vibrant red, pocket watch, string tie, and a long almost ankle length frock coat. In terms of shoes I generally rely on a good pair of cowboy boots and top it all off with a beaver fur Stetson or Resistol hat. I find black with a strong vest color to make a powerful statement about one's self.

 

[StuporStar]

Undershirts: no disagreement here, but remember to tuck your undershirt into your underwear. Otherwise it bunches at your midsection and adds girth to your belly, something most of us don't want.

Really? I'm not one to judge, but if you personally do this.. fine, power to ya.... however to recommend it in a thread devoted to 'style' you should be taken out back of that court house, flogged, and left a moribund quivering mass of tears and bodily fluids in nothing but your socks.

If bunching is the primary concern, might I suggest: a longer (tall cut) undershirt, some abdominal/midsection toning exercises, or going without either an undershirt or sans underwear.

Dear Goodness, tucking a shirt into your underwear
I am likely to have a night terror thinking of this

 

[fccexpert]

Pretty much just your opinion.

 

[Ethan.Bassist.]

Old thread. Good info. But for posterity's sake, let me donate a few words.

Regarding undershirts. Get a couple of grey v-necks that fit your body snug but also fit longish so you have plenty of tuck in room. I have a great one from Old Navy. Probably my favourite fitting shirt in general. Anywho, I may have read it in B&B or somewhere else, but a grey undershirt will look much better under a white shirt. It matches your under-the-shirt skin tone. And the v-neck aspect is obvious. It won't show under your collar and if you go out after work and looses your tie and unbutton the top button, it still won't show! Perfect.

Also, shirt stays.