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First time honer

I'm new at straight shaving, but big into antique stores and flea markets. In the past I've found a lot of cool looking old straights that I've passed on because I simply haven't known much about them. I got a proper straight from a PIF situation and honed by Seraphim and am loving it so far.

I've been trying to figure out the story with hones and all, and find myself overwhelmed. I would like to find something that would be relatively inexpensive, but cost effective (perhaps a combination stone?), that I could use old straights I find in the wild. I'll be staying away from anything that looks too gnarly to be easily honed back to proper using condition, but want to be able to use the ones I find.

Any suggestions?
 
You'll get a million suggestions.

I started with Nortons, moved to Cotis, wound up with some of nearly everything.

Coticules are great stones because they're a self contained 'system' and can handle a lot, or even all, of what needs to get done.

Someone is going to say Cotis are no good for beginners though.
Whatever - I had one when I started, and I still use them.
 
Coticules seem to be much more expensive and maybe more finnicky than other wet stones (correct me if I'm wrong). I was wondering if a pair of wet stones or combo stone would be better for maintenance and minor blade restoration. If I did this though, I wouldn't know what grit levels to get for my needs
 
If you're looking to get in on the cheap, it's hard to beat lapping film. A set of 15, 12, 5, 3 and 1 micron sheets will get you through bevel setting all the way through finishing for ~$20 or so. All you'll need to find is a flat surface (think flat marble/granite, tile, et al) to set it on. If you're looking to do blade repair, you'd probably want to invest in something like a DMT 325 and 1200 for the heavy duty work.
 
+ 1 to this. You can get a flat piece of marble at any Home Depot for about 7 bucks. I actually prefer my film edges to the ones I get off my Norton stones, but everyone has their preference.
 
I would not say that coticules are overly finicky, as such. Most of the trouble I had as a beginner was directly related to not understanding the importance of setting a proper bevel. If you are planning to hone your own razors, a 1K stone is essential. Too few talk about the bevel setting stage and in my opinion that is about 75% of what is to be accomplished in honing the razor in the first place.
 
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Film works great if your blades are flat. If you have smilers and a bit of blade correction to do, you would need dmts or other hones to flatten the edges before or you will go through a lot of film. I guess I may be wrong as I have only used from 5 micron and finer. Once the film is scratched its done. Im not knocking film at all. Just sharing my experience with it. A dmt 600, 1200 combo should get the blades prepped for film so that is not a big deal.
 
this

I would not say that coticules are overly finicky, as such. Most of the trouble I had as a beginner was directly related to not understanding the importance of setting a proper bevel. If you are planning to hone your own razors, a 1K stone is essential. Too few talk about the bevel setting stage and in my opinion that is about 75% of what is to be accomplished in honing the razor in the first place.



A coti is a natural stone that can last you a lifetime, it is not disposable, it does not wind up in a landfill eventually, and it can usually be sold for what you paid for it if you decide you don't want to hone anymore. A small bout can run 40-50 bucks, a slurry stone can another 15 or so.


As for synthetics - Norton 4/8k is a start, a linen hanger with crox will get the 8k edge a bit keener.
A bit nicer option is the Naniwa 3/8k Super Stone. Personally - I think thats a better option.

Many people want to get a finisher - 10-12k or higher after that. But the Crox can suffice in the beginning.
 
I'm a newcomer to honing too, and I'm using 1k and 3k/8k Naniwa Superstones and I have a CrOx-loaded balsa paddle. I'll eventually get a finer finishing stone (or 2, or...:wink2:), but for now I'm finishing with lather on the 8k and getting pretty good shaves.
 
Coticules shouldn't be considered ad a finisher. There I said it.

It never ends though, as there will always be something newer, finer etc. I think that film and compound technology will improve much faster than hones. But the reality is how sharp is sharp enough. The old time barbers did 5 laps on a 5 or 6k barbers hone and strop and shave 5 more hours. Ceramic I believe will be the next big thing as the dmts and diamond pastes will allow you to hone these increasingly finer. And then ceramic disposables for cheap. But I like my steel and hones. and what would we do with all that free time? LOL.
 
Yet another new honer checking in.

I got a Carborundum in a manufacturer's cardboard box from Gamma a few weeks ago. And I've gotten myself a practice razor, one I don't care if I end up throwing away in case I wreck it badly. It's marginally OK to shave with, and the red and green balsa strop I got from Whipped Dog improved it. But it's not nearly as sharp as the razors I got from Gamma with the stone. (In part no doubt to my fumbling techniques as a beginner, which is why I'm here to learn.)

What grit is this Carborundum? Reading the lid of the box I'm assuming it's good enough for a finish edge, which is what I need. Or do I misunderstand, and I need something else too?
 
If there is no marking on the hone itself, the only way would be to compare scratch patterns to hones that have a known grit. Impossible to answer from here. If it was made for razors then it should work, it may be one of a few and you would need to progress to a finer one or it may be the finisher. No way of knowing. How was the shave?
 
If there is no marking on the hone itself, the only way would be to compare scratch patterns to hones that have a known grit. Impossible to answer from here. If it was made for razors then it should work, it may be one of a few and you would need to progress to a finer one or it may be the finisher. No way of knowing. How was the shave?

Oh, so you look on the stone and not the container. Well, then, it says it's a Number 103. So let's see what I can come up with for a Carborundum No. 103. I'll bet Google knows something.

It does claim to be a razor stone. And honestly it feels pretty smooth.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Coticules shouldn't be considered ad a finisher. There I said it.

Uh oh. Now you done it.

For myself I am inclined to agree because I have definitely improved my coti edges with film or balsa. In fact I never even hone on a coticule any more. But many coti fans shave off them and are delighted with the shave. Experience and skill can unlock a higher level with coticules and some veins finish better than others. So get ready. You have unleashed a huricane!
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Yet another new honer checking in.

I got a Carborundum in a manufacturer's cardboard box from Gamma a few weeks ago. And I've gotten myself a practice razor, one I don't care if I end up throwing away in case I wreck it badly. It's marginally OK to shave with, and the red and green balsa strop I got from Whipped Dog improved it. But it's not nearly as sharp as the razors I got from Gamma with the stone. (In part no doubt to my fumbling techniques as a beginner, which is why I'm here to learn.)

What grit is this Carborundum? Reading the lid of the box I'm assuming it's good enough for a finish edge, which is what I need. Or do I misunderstand, and I need something else too?

Try finishing with a LOT of very light laps with lather. It makes an incresible difference.
 
Them is fightin words!
Put your money where your mouth is Brooksie.
I'll challenge a coti edge to your best edge any day!

Smooth for sure, can't argue that one at all. Just not sharp enough for my personal tastes. When I say smooth I mean SMOOOOOOTH, like my nakayama kiita smooth.
 
this






A coti is a natural stone that can last you a lifetime, it is not disposable, it does not wind up in a landfill eventually, and it can usually be sold for what you paid for it if you decide you don't want to hone anymore. A small bout can run 40-50 bucks, a slurry stone can another 15 or so.


As for synthetics - Norton 4/8k is a start, a linen hanger with crox will get the 8k edge a bit keener.
A bit nicer option is the Naniwa 3/8k Super Stone. Personally - I think thats a better option.

Many people want to get a finisher - 10-12k or higher after that. But the Crox can suffice in the beginning.

I'm a newcomer to honing too, and I'm using 1k and 3k/8k Naniwa Superstones and I have a CrOx-loaded balsa paddle. I'll eventually get a finer finishing stone (or 2, or...:wink2:), but for now I'm finishing with lather on the 8k and getting pretty good shaves.

Coticules shouldn't be considered ad a finisher. There I said it.

These are a some of the common ways to go and coticules aren't the best finisher for beginners because it takes a lot of practice and some coticules are much better finishers than others but even so you should be able to get a nice comfortable shave from one that you may outgrow as your skills improve.
 
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