SSA's are great.
The E&B is slightly bellow in size though, at 14 mm, dont know how noticiable this is, in terms of the size. And there is an issue with that it is tight to open and closing, according to the seller. But it is only 62 USD.The Heljestrand is a nice razor. The only Swedish razors I'm not particularly keen on are the thin frame backs. I just find them awkward to use.
Any 5/8 or 6/8 should be decent enough when starting. I would also consider the E&B if it's available. I haven't found a Swedish razor that hasn't been trashed that didn't give a decent shave once honed. One thing to note is 4/8 razors were a common size for the Swedish market and there are a lot of them still around. I found they take more practice than a 5 or 6/8 .
Yeah, it feels a bit weird how times has changed haha. When I read about SR's a few years ago the suggested size was 5/8. But now it has shifted more over to 6/8 it seems. Hench why I am sort of leaning away from the E&B personally. When the others are bigger.I don’t know what make a razor i inherited many years ago until I get back to my other home, if in good condition I may start with that if not I narrowed down to a 6/8 Ralf Aust or Thiers G something 1931. Originally researched 5/8 but advise from here and other sources suggested 6/8 is the way to go.
Yes lots of SRs and when I saw the width between the two sizes to me it isn't that much of a difference.Yeah, it feels a bit weird how times has changed haha. When I read about SR's a few years ago the suggested size was 5/8. But now it has shifted more over to 6/8 it seems. Hench why I am sort of leaning away from the E&B personally. When the others are bigger.
Either way there are plenty of things to pick from, both vintage and modern.
From my experience I think a 6/8 with a chunky tang is much easier to learn the stropping strokes and (when it comes to it) the honing strokes than a 5/8 or 4/8. I would also recommend using one and only one of your blades for the first 3-6 months.Yeah, it feels a bit weird how times has changed haha. When I read about SR's a few years ago the suggested size was 5/8. But now it has shifted more over to 6/8 it seems. Hench why I am sort of leaning away from the E&B personally. When the others are bigger.
Either way there are plenty of things to pick from, both vintage and modern.
In my opinion they are all equally bad out of the box. If i had to choose i would rather get a completely dull round edge i could set a proper geometry on. This is much easier then to fix the mess you usually get on most new blades, including some expensive custom blades.Since from my impression, Ralf Aust is guaranteed good to go out the box? As I seem to recall that at least Dovo and Thiers-Issard seem to often require some sort of stone before use, often, in comparison?
But I also think that it may be wise to wait and get a styptic pencil first. Since I only have an alum block right now.
So the pencil isn't more effective than the block? I dont know if there are any differences between them, as I haven't really looked into them.Alum block will work just as well as a pencil.
So the pencil isn't more effective than the block? I dont know if there are any differences between them, as I haven't really looked into them.
Yeah, that they are both alum is pretty much the only knowledge I have of them. I saw a text that said that the pencil was a more concentrated variety, so I figured that perhaps it has more effect, but if that isn't the case then I am not gonna spend money on a tool I already have one of. Thanks for the info.Both are alum; the block is more versatile.
I concur, actually I find the alum works ok with a weeper but the stypic pencil is definitely more effective for an outright cut.I've had a few cases where the block wasn't effective on a persistent bleeder. The styptic pencil worked immediately. I've only had to use it a few times, but was glad I had it when I needed it.
If the strop is cupping downwards in the middle of the width you can manipulate it to flat. From below, grip the strop across the width put a thumb on one side and your middle finger on the other side. Use your middle finger to push up the middle until it pops out into a convex rather than concave shape. Now slide your thumb and middle finger along the strop to extend the shape along its length. It is much easier to do than this description suggestsThe strop also has a slight bendy shape, so I do believe that I should always ensure to hold it tight.
It's hard to tell from that sketch. Do you have a photo of the razor?Alright, second shave done. It felt a bit different, but I decided to try another soap, so I did struggle about with the water ratio, I feel. That being said, I've noticed a few things with the straight razor beneath the bathroom light. And I am not confident with the strop. Something may also have felt a bit off, since on my chin it was a bit of a battle to shave, but, to be fair, that has always been my trouble spot. And I didnt shave after my usual interval, but at the same time, I am under the impression that a straight shouldn't struggle with large beards, so it feels a bit strange that it would do so with the growth I had. Also got a tiny "surgeon slice" as we call it, in Norway, on my cheek.
So I am starting to fear that I might have messed up the edge of the razor. For reference I am gonna attach some images of the strop.
View attachment 1923529View attachment 1923530View attachment 1923531View attachment 1923532View attachment 1923533View attachment 1923534View attachment 1923535View attachment 1923537
First of all the spots where some leather has fallen off, this is due to my stropping. Is there something I should do with those spots? Since sometimes, when I run the straight over I can hear a different sound coming from the blade to my ears. Which makes me fear that it might be messed up the edge, as I fear that the blade slizes over it?
During stropping I ensure to have a firm grip and pull on the leather, so there isn't any sag, based on what I have seen in some videos. This is the correct approach, right?
And then finally, for the over all quality. From the images, is the strop ideal? I get that there should be firmness to the leather, but when I look at strops from Herold Solingen and Muhle for example, the leather seems at least to the eye, softer.
On to the straight razor. I've noticed something on the edge of it. There was one mark on it before, when I got it, but I believe the others have appeared since last time. Since it is a bit hard to take a picture of it, under propper lighting I have used paint to illustrate it. It looks something like this, granted, a bit exaggerated in terms of size, for this illustration.
View attachment 1923549
First there were some light scratch on the straight, I think at least on one spot on the front and a bit further back, talking real tiny here. From what I recall that was there from before. The "marks" as I like to call them above is at the very end on the cutting edge of the straight. I believe that one was there when I got it (but tiny), if I recall right, but now it looks like there is more on the edge and the one that was there has grown in size. Is it correct to assume that this means that the straight needs to go on the hone?
Cause I'm inclined to believe that this comes from two things, the strop and the fact that I was unlucky and dinged the edge twice during the last shave. Further at the end though. Long after I got the "surgeon slice" on me.