First shave comparing Timeless double sided 95 gap baseplate to 68 OC

[User 306]

So after a 3 day wait and heavy growth I finally got to shave with my new Timeless razor with the double sided custom baseplate both with a 95 gap.

Soap- Stirling Barbershop
Blade- Kai
Brush - RazoRock Monster
Bowl - Fine
Aftershave - Thayer's unscented
Aftershave balm - Stirling Barbershop

Ok so I wanted to compare a full 4 pass shave against my other Timeless razor I've had for a couple of months with a 68 OC. I've gotten what I call a level 2 BBS shave out of 4 passes. BTW I rate BBS shaves from 1 to 3. So on with the shave. Took a hot shower, put the Kai blade in the razor ( didn't want to use a Feather on the first go round ) then loaded the brush and lathered up a yogurt thick creme and applied it. My current technique I'm using is to take short strokes whether I'm on pass 1 or 4. I use this method also because my skin has gotten a little looser than it was when I was younger. I stretch my skin as I go along. Also just to be as informative as possible I have a complete opposite beard growth on my neck as compared to my face with some real funky swirls in the grain. So I use a crisscross XTG technique on my neck and then finish with an ATG pass at the end.
So 1st pass WTG using the OC side I immediately notice the more aggressive nature of this gap compared to the 68. So I adjust my angle slightly and I'm off to the races. Razor glides along beautifully, I'm getting some nice feedback and it's definitely mowing down some hair. Rinse and feel no irritation which is a good sign. On to the first XTG pass from ear to nose using the SB side, again I felt the need to slightly alter my angle and again some feedback and a smooth glide with no noticeable irritation.
ALso I notice on this pass that their seems to be no difference as far as glide between the 68 and 95. Which brings up another subject that I'd really like some feedback on from members on. So I have or had other SS razors like my recently sold Tradere SB and Feather AS -02 that although they were great razors, I didn't feel they have the same smoothest or what I call smooth razor glide as either of the two Timeless razors. I'm not sure if the polished finish has anything to do with it compared to the matte of the other two SS razors or its the head design on the Timeless. Again thoughts from members on this is much appreciated.
So on to the 3rd XTG pass nose to ear. This time I switch to a cold shave. It's something I've been doing on either the final pass of a 3 pass shave or in this case where I'm doing 4 passes I started on the 3rd pass. I find I get less irritation using this method. So same results as the previous passes but at this time I felt BBS smooth and probably didn't need a 4th pass but to really compare against the 68 I did the 4th ATG pass using the OC side just to see if I got any irritation and I even did under my nose which I'm a little hesitant on with some razors I own.
Final results was a level 3 BBS shave and quite possibly the closest shave I've ever had. I used my Alum and got a little feedback on my neck in the trouble spots but nothing unusual there. No weepers BTW. I keep feeling my face and no where and I mean nowhere do I feel any hair left and like I said the hair on my neck is a real challenge.
So in the end comparing a OC 68 plate to the double sided 95 plate on a 4 pass shave the result was a BBS level 2 shave with the 68 and a BBS level 3 shave on the 95. Next test I'm going to compare is a 3 pass shave on both and see what results I get.
Sorry for the long read guys I guess it's this hobby we choose.

 

[Hoka Hey]

Which brings up another subject that I'd really like some feedback on from members on. So I have or had other SS razors like my recently sold Tradere SB and Feather AS -02 that although they were great razors, I didn't feel they have the same smoothest or what I call smooth razor glide as either of the two Timeless razors. I'm not sure if the polished finish has anything to do with it compared to the matte of the other two SS razors or its the head design on the Timeless. Again thoughts from members on this is much appreciated.

Here's my WAG. It's the shape of the guards leading edge. I recently had the Rockwell 6s from the pass around. It was amazingly smooth, especially on my neck, where I usually feel some drag. My initial thought was the coating might have provided some lubricity. My unscientific method of testing was to rub my thumb on the top caps of several razors under running water, including the 6s. Nope. No difference in feel.

I then had the idea to try the same thing, only running thumb along the guard under running water. Huge difference. The Rockwell was noticeably slicker. The Merkur 38c was only slightly behind. Noticeable drag on the Techs and clones. On the stamped Tech baseplate, the edge is noticeably flatter.

My thoroughly unscientific conclusion is that the curvature of the leading edge is what we feel as being smoother than other razors.

 

[AveDeus]

Thank you for the comparison write up, I might need to try cold shave on my 3rd pass and see how it turns out for me.

 

[User 306]

Here's my WAG. It's the shape of the guards leading edge. I recently had the Rockwell 6s from the pass around. It was amazingly smooth, especially on my neck, where I usually feel some drag. My initial thought was the coating might have provided some lubricity. My unscientific method of testing was to rub my thumb on the top caps of several razors under running water, including the 6s. Nope. No difference in feel.

I then had the idea to try the same thing, only running thumb along the guard under running water. Huge difference. The Rockwell was noticeably slicker. The Merkur 38c was only slightly behind. Noticeable drag on the Techs and clones. On the stamped Tech baseplate, the edge is noticeably flatter.

My thoroughly unscientific conclusion is that the curvature of the leading edge is what we feel as being smoother than other razors.

View attachment 799042 View attachment 799043

Great input and now I've got to put some of my razors through your test. I think this may also be a good test when purchasing a new razor.
Thank you for your feedback!

 

[User 306]

Thank you for the comparison write up, I might need to try cold shave on my 3rd pass and see how it turns out for me.

I've also done complete cold shaves start to finish but mostly on the 3rd or in this case 3rd and 4th pass. It has made a big difference in the irritation dept and it feels good especially in the warm weather. Keep me updated when you get yours.

 

[Hoka Hey]

Great input and now I've got to put some of my razors through your test. I think this may also be a good test when purchasing a new razor.
Thank you for your feedback!

.

Give it a go. I'd appreciate confirmation or condemnation. It's only one aspect of razor design, but results of my admittedly limited testing seemed significant to me.

 

[joeyboy]

Thank you for the comparison write up, I might need to try cold shave on my 3rd pass and see how it turns out for me.

I've never considered this. I normal do a two pass with touch ups on the jaw and neck. The cold third sounds interesting.

Tomorrow sounds like a good day.

 

[User 306]

.

Give it a go. I'd appreciate confirmation or condemnation. It's only one aspect of razor design, but results of my admittedly limited testing seemed significant to me.

I'll follow up with you on this over the weekend. An thanks again!

 

[User 306]

I've never considered this. I normal do a two pass with touch ups on the jaw and neck. The cold third sounds interesting.

Tomorrow sounds like a good day.

Give it a try I don't think you'll regret it and let us know how it went tomorrow.

 

[joeyboy]

Give it a try I don't think you'll regret it and let us know how it went tomorrow.

So I did the cold final pass. I did a total of four passes. I normally do 2.5. I used a Rockwell 6s with plate 5, 3, 3 and 1 for the passes with a three day old GSB. I normally have no irritation and with this shave I had none. I probably won't do this many passes every day as now I can go without shaving until Tuesday, at least. On work days I do one pass with daily shaving.

The cold final pass is good. I will use it.

Thanks for the info.

 

[User 306]

So I did the cold final pass. I did a total of four passes. I normally do 2.5. I used a Rockwell 6s with plate 5, 3, 3 and 1 for the passes with a three day old GSB. I normally have no irritation and with this shave I had none. I probably won't do this many passes every day as now I can go without shaving until Tuesday, at least. On work days I do one pass with daily shaving.

The cold final pass is good. I will use it.

Thanks for the info.

Glad it worked for you. I don't normally do 4 passes either 2 1/2 or 3 is usually enough to give me either a DFS or what I call a level 1 BBS. Like today I did just two passes which is a touch up but I used cold water on the 2and pass and to be honest I'm hooked on it.
How do you like the 6s? I've only got 2 Adjustables a Parker Variant which I really like and a restored Fatboy that I had replated in Rhrodium which I'm saving for my son.

 

[BigJ]

Interesting! (And great razor collection!) I cannot provide much input as I shave daily and tend toward the moderate end of razor aggressiveness.

 

[User 306]

Interesting! (And great razor collection!) I cannot provide much input as I shave daily and tend toward the moderate end of razor aggressiveness.

Thank you and the collection is growing. I usually shave daily Tuesday thru Thursday when I'm working closely with clients and I usually use a milder set up like my Colonial General, Parker Variant set on 2 1/2 - 3, or I just got the Oneblade Core which is a very fast shave and I just do 2 quick passes. I do admit I like to go for a BBS shave on certain days when I have the time. I think it's just the challenge and I do like the way it feels.

 

[User 306]

Here's my WAG. It's the shape of the guards leading edge. I recently had the Rockwell 6s from the pass around. It was amazingly smooth, especially on my neck, where I usually feel some drag. My initial thought was the coating might have provided some lubricity. My unscientific method of testing was to rub my thumb on the top caps of several razors under running water, including the 6s. Nope. No difference in feel.

I then had the idea to try the same thing, only running thumb along the guard under running water. Huge difference. The Rockwell was noticeably slicker. The Merkur 38c was only slightly behind. Noticeable drag on the Techs and clones. On the stamped Tech baseplate, the edge is noticeably flatter.

My thoroughly unscientific conclusion is that the curvature of the leading edge is what we feel as being smoother than other razors.

View attachment 799042 View attachment 799043

Well I did a quick test of most of my favorite DE and SE razors and I think you are onto something. There was a definite difference in the smoothness of the guard. Both the Timeless razors were absolutely the smoothest and I saw no difference between OC and SB. The Parker Variant came in 3rd even though it has a matte finish so I'm not sure that makes any difference in evaluation as I originally thought it might. Charcoal Goods was almost as smooth but to be fair I only have the basic head on their Magnum handle and I'm waiting on the brass V2 so we'll see how that compares. Next up was my R41 head that I just got this past week and I was a surprised how it placed in this test. The Colonial General and Asylum Evolution both in brass came in next with the and to my surprise my Rhodium Fatboy was dead last in smoothness and I'm sure the Slim Adjustable would not be any better. These are my top shavers right now. BTW I didn't include the Oneblade Core. I think this may be a good test on how smooth a razor glides ( not considering the soap or cream glide.
Thank you so much for the info!

 

[Hoka Hey]

Well I did a quick test of most of my favorite DE and SE razors and I think you are onto something. There was a definite difference in the smoothness of the guard. Both the Timeless razors were absolutely the smoothest and I saw no difference between OC and SB. The Parker Variant came in 3rd even though it has a matte finish so I'm not sure that makes any difference in evaluation as I originally thought it might. Charcoal Goods was almost as smooth but to be fair I only have the basic head on their Magnum handle and I'm waiting on the brass V2 so we'll see how that compares. Next up was my R41 head that I just got this past week and I was a surprised how it placed in this test. The Colonial General and Asylum Evolution both in brass came in next with the and to my surprise my Rhodium Fatboy was dead last in smoothness and I'm sure the Slim Adjustable would not be any better. These are my top shavers right now. BTW I didn't include the Oneblade Core. I think this may be a good test on how smooth a razor glides ( not considering the soap or cream glide.
Thank you so much for the info!

Thanks for trying it on a wider variety of razors than what I have available. I still need to get my finger calibrated by the Department of Commerce, Division of Weights and Measures in order to make it a truly scientific study.

It is definitely and significantly different among different razors. The older Gillette Techs, TTO's are flatter, probably due to manufacturing constraints, adequate performance. I'm moving into NEW's from the 30's, will pay attention to this aspect.

Thanks again for the confirmation. Much appreciated.

 

[joeyboy]

Glad it worked for you. I don't normally do 4 passes either 2 1/2 or 3 is usually enough to give me either a DFS or what I call a level 1 BBS. Like today I did just two passes which is a touch up but I used cold water on the 2and pass and to be honest I'm hooked on it.
How do you like the 6s? I've only got 2 Adjustables a Parker Variant which I really like and a restored Fatboy that I had replated in Rhrodium which I'm saving for my son.

I love the 6s. I have a 56 B2 red tip and a 34hd I almost never use. I use the 6s every day. Rarely, I use the hd but I like the different plates on the 6s. If I shave daily I will just use plate 2 or 4 then 2. Past daily, its 4 then 2 for final pass two and touch ups. Plate 5 and 6 are a little rough for me but 4 is very very efficient and I don't need 5 or 6. If I just do one pass I use plate 2 and light multiple strokes. Works great and very forgiving, more than the 34hd.

I'm to the point now that the red tip is just there and wont get used, plus my slants.

 

[User 306]

Thanks for trying it on a wider variety of razors than what I have available. I still need to get my finger calibrated by the Department of Commerce, Division of Weights and Measures in order to make it a truly scientific study.

It is definitely and significantly different among different razors. The older Gillette Techs, TTO's are flatter, probably due to manufacturing constraints, adequate performance. I'm moving into NEW's from the 30's, will pay attention to this aspect.

Thanks again for the confirmation. Much appreciated.

Haha! A good one my friend.

I think your also correct on the older razors being a bit flater at least my two are.
Thanks again!

 

[User 306]

I love the 6s. I have a 56 B2 red tip and a 34hd I almost never use. I use the 6s every day. Rarely, I use the hd but I like the different plates on the 6s. If I shave daily I will just use plate 2 or 4 then 2. Past daily, its 4 then 2 for final pass two and touch ups. Plate 5 and 6 are a little rough for me but 4 is very very efficient and I don't need 5 or 6. If I just do one pass I use plate 2 and light multiple strokes. Works great and very forgiving, more than the 34hd.

I'm to the point now that the red tip is just there and wont get used, plus my slants.

Just orders the Rockwell 6c with all the plates. For $50 I thought why not plus they were out of the 6s but they reassured me that the shave is no different than the 6s only it's not SS and he noted the fact is a polished finish we found to have a slightly smoother glide. We'll see how that goes once I take it for a spin. Yeah I don't use my older razors to often. Just the Fatboy once in a blue moon cause it's kinda special to me and I can still get a great shave out of it

 

[joeyboy]

Just orders the Rockwell 6c with all the plates. For $50 I thought why not plus they were out of the 6s but they reassured me that the shave is no different than the 6s only it's not SS and he noted the fact is a polished finish we found to have a slightly smoother glide. We'll see how that goes once I take it for a spin. Yeah I don't use my older razors to often. Just the Fatboy once in a blue moon cause it's kinda special to me and I can still get a great shave out of it

The reviews said the shave was the same. I think you'll like it. I would not start with plate 5 6.

 

[Komboloi]

Great thread. A lot going on beyond blade gap measurements.

I have a .68 OC Timeless, and I recently acquired a .95 scalloped head for it. This review makes me anxious to try the .95, because I loved the .68 and (loving aggressive razors) just wanted a touch more.