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Fighting a Dorko

So I got this Dorko that was supposed to be shave-ready when I got it.
And indeed, the bottom half shaved well. The half from the tip down did not.
$faulty bevel.jpg
We can actually tell from the picture here that the bevel does not look right at the top.

So I took it back to the 1K.
It took a while to get something and I never got it to shave arm hair well, so when the bevel started to look right, I moved on to 4K, 6K, 8K.
No HHT. So I did some 10K and a lot of chromium paste stropping and got some hht0 there.
I managed to shave with it, but that was pretty horrible.

So my question is what should I go back too?

I just read a thread about TI being hard to hone due to the quality of metal. Are Dorko as hard (or harder) to hone?
 
If the bevel is set on 1k it should shave arm hair, if not I would go back to 1k. The other grits will go quicker when the bevel is set
 
So I took it back to the 1K.
It took a while to get something and I never got it to shave arm hair well, so when the bevel started to look right, I moved on to 4K, 6K, 8K.

I would say to go ahead and spend more time on the 1k as you should be able to shave arm hair effortlessly off of the 1k. Moving onto the 4, 6, and 8k's will unfortunately do you no good if the bevel is not truly set. I would try using a little more pressure on the 1k, and maybe a little slurry to speed things up.
 
So looks to have been done from one of the 444 blank I keep seeing on eBay as the seller (who does custom scales) had another one to sell the next week.
The scales are nice.
But that bevel got me wondering if those eBay blanks were quality rejects that someone saved from the dump when the company was operating. Maybe it is not ground straight, which cause the bevel to not come in straight if you just follow the geometry of the blade.

I'll see if I can get somewhere.
I have spent a lot of time on that Dorko already; lot of time on the 1k, with lot of pressure not going anywhere, which is why I started moving up the grits.
Anyway, I'll give it another chance.
 
Magic marker along the bevel, run it up and down your 10 k and see where the bevel is contacting and where it isn't. Apply pressure while honing to areas not touching as needed.
 
The bevel looking good is not an indication of a bevel being good. If you fail to set the bevel well, the razor will not shave well. It is that simple. Back to your 1K hone and stay there until the entire edge convincingly passes the TNT.
 
The bevel looking good is not an indication of a bevel being good. If you fail to set the bevel well, the razor will not shave well. It is that simple. Back to your 1K hone and stay there until the entire edge convincingly passes the TNT.

You had to bring that up :)

After playing around with it, a lot more, I do see the validity of this test so I'll eat crow with this one. I'm not gunna buy into the TPT though :)
 
You might have a point there.
The blade surface does not seem as smooth as something commercial. So It could be that they are not ground fully. Or that they were dumped in the reject basket before the grounding was completed or the some other final touch.

As for heat treated, how can one tell?
 
This was disucussed on another forum some time ago - someone tested one or a few of these blades and found they had undergone HT&T.
Doesn't mean this particular blade was - but I'd guess that it's fine. Maybe not finish-ground though.
 
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