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Emil Voos Silver Steel

This razor was found in an antique shop. I'm very new to straights so I'm hoping that someone can tell me something about this razor - searches for Emil Voos don't turn up a whole lot. I did find this thread @ SRP http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/razors/17009-emil-voos-razor.html

Also can anyone give me any info on what kind of condition this razor is in and what might need to be done to restore it?

Any idea what it's worth? You can PM me if you have an idea (sorry if I shouldn't have asked), although I'm mostly interested in restoring it and learning about it's history.

I think it's a 3/8 full hollow. It has some tarnish and rust, I'm not sure about pitting. I'm not sure what the scales are made out of (bakelite??). Would these be the original scales? One of the scales bends slightly outwards, however I think the razor centers between the scales. It reads "Silver Steel" on one side (which I'm told is a Carbon Steel??) and EMIL VOOS, SOLINGEN, GERMANY on the reverse.

Thanks for any help!

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i am no restorer (don't even own a hone >.< ) but i can say you have a lot of work to do sanding, rust is pretty bad in a few places. i would wait for a person who restores opinion/advice.
 
I keep reading that as Evil Moos. I know that doesn't help you at all but it looks like it will be a nice looking razor when done.
 
You may already know that Emil Voos was the cofounder (with a Herr Dorp) of DOVO. I would guess the blade has some historical value if nothing else.
 
You may already know that Emil Voos was the cofounder (with a Herr Dorp) of DOVO. I would guess the blade has some historical value if nothing else.
You know, I didn't know that, but I guess that's where the name comes from
DorpVoos :biggrin:
 
First get some metal cleaner and give the blade a good polish. Watch you don't cut your fingers by laying the blade flat on a piece of carboard and let the sharp edge dig into the cardboard to stop the edge cutting your fingers.

Then put up another photograph.
 
I've had a few people tell me that the scales are probably original. What are they made out of though? They seem like some type of plastic but feel more substantial than that. Someone had mentioned bakelite to me (as I mentioned above). Did they make scales out of this? I've seen several people using acrylic now.

Bakelite makes me think of an even lower watt easy bake oven.
 
I have seen those scales on many German razors.

They are not that special. I suppose in their day it was like ordering a car with metallic paint.

I have no idea what they are made of but I do know that they clean with plastic cleaners if you need to polish them.

Usually, some Jif or a plastic bath cleaner will clean them up a treat.

As I said, you give the razor a good clean so we can see if there are any real problems and then you can receive proper advice.

I'm not trying to put you of, I'm trying to get you the best advice available.
Unitil you do some gentle initial work, nobody really knows what you need to do.

So you go and clean a little and re photo and then you can get some detailed advice on what you need to do.

My guess is that if you do as I have said, all you will need to do after the clean and polish is sharpen the edge.

If you can not clean and polish the razor, I would suggest you sell the razor, because straight razor shaving isn't for you.
 
I have seen those scales on many German razors.

They are not that special. I suppose in their day it was like ordering a car with metallic paint.

I have no idea what they are made of but I do know that they clean with plastic cleaners if you need to polish them.

Usually, some Jif or a plastic bath cleaner will clean them up a treat.

As I said, you give the razor a good clean so we can see if there are any real problems and then you can receive proper advice.

I'm not trying to put you of, I'm trying to get you the best advice available.
Unitil you do some gentle initial work, nobody really knows what you need to do.

So you go and clean a little and re photo and then you can get some detailed advice on what you need to do.

My guess is that if you do as I have said, all you will need to do after the clean and polish is sharpen the edge.

If you can not clean and polish the razor, I would suggest you sell the razor, because straight razor shaving isn't for you.

I have already cleaned the scales from what is pictured and they do look great. I do appreciate your information about them being fairly common though, English. It helps confirm what others have said about them being the original scales. I was only curious what they were made of.

As for cleaning the blade I am waiting on some replies from some restorers before I decide whether I want to tackle the cleaning and polishing myself - it's only been a week since I acquired the razor after all. I'm certainly not opposed to cleaning and polishing the razor myself, and in fact I think it would be fun to do. My current delima is that I don't have a hone or strop yet $$ and the blade is quite dull. So at the very least I would have to send it to a honing service (I wouldn't want to try and do it the first time myself) and if I were to have it restored by someone it would save me the time and cost of getting the materials and doing it myself, and it would come back shave ready so I could sell it if I decide I'm not ready for the investment yet. I'm still weighing the cost/benefit you could say.

As I said, there isn't too much info on Emil Voos razors that I can find. It would be nice to put a year range on it.

From the SRP thread (from a user who is now banned???):
Voos was a very well-respected firm like JA Henckels. They made knives, swords, razors, and more. They were big in the early 20th century but Nazi Germany started pushing them around. I'm not saying there weren't Nazi sympathizers - there might've been some just about everywhere in Germany at that time - but Voos (the firm, not the person) was forced to make stuff for Nazi Youth and other programs. Since so many Voos items have Nazi logos, you don't find them around much. Who wants to go shaving with a Nazi razor? If you can find one in good condition that has no Nazi reference, consider it a rare item.

Is anyone able to confirm this information?

Thanks again for all the input, everyone!
 
Ok, here are some photos after I polished the blade a little bit by hand - quickly. I was amazed at how much better it looks. There is a spot that just wouldn't come off on the tip of the spike. I tried to get it in the last two photos. The heel has some stuff that I couldn't get off next to the stabilizing piece. I think it probably needs to be unpinned to get the blade completely polished.

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That looks a lot better.

Taking the scales off is the best way to clean arround the pin area but it's a pain. You need the tools and a new pin. If you put some oil arround that area and let it soak, then clean it up again,you will find it will get cleaner.

The bits that remain on the blade may respond to a more abasive polish such as a chrome cleaner or harder work with whatever you are using. In the UK, we have a chrome cleaner called autosol which is quite powerful.

Also, one of those nail files with rubber in the middle that looks like a tongue stick the doctors use when they look at your throat. If you can find one with a very fine grit polisher. Sometimes they have two grits and a black rubber polishing side. Anyway, that will sand the spine, but don't use it on the blade as you will ruin the mirror finish.

But it is certainly usable as it is. Now it just needs sharpening and you are ready to go.:wink:
 
Polish won't take the rest, it needs sandpaper and fairly coarse one if it is to be come shiny again. The big spot of pitting near/at the edge on the back looks a rather worrisome too, may be it'll shave may be it'll be a rust bin material, no way to tell from the pictures yet. As far as I can see my money is on trash, right now.
 
As far as unpinning - I think I can do that no problem.

As far as re-pinning... Has anyone tried the repinning kit from Classic Shaving for DOVO? Is it any good or would I be better off to buy a rod and some washers and do it myself? Does it really work with almost any razor/scales? It's not like I'm restoring a lot of razors, so I was considering it just because I could get everything from one place for a reasonable price.

Polish won't take the rest, it needs sandpaper and fairly coarse one if it is to be come shiny again. The big spot of pitting near/at the edge on the back looks a rather worrisome too, may be it'll shave may be it'll be a rust bin material, no way to tell from the pictures yet. As far as I can see my money is on trash, right now.

After sanding how will I know whether it's usable or not? What makes it trash? How low of a grit should I start with? 400??
 
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Actually sanding may not tell you enough - the steel seems rusted through and if that is the case the edge will need to move beyond that to a good steel. At that point the edge will likely be well within the shoulder, so honing will be a real problem. You could grind off the shoulder, but you're well beyond the area of diminishing returns.
You've already discovered srp take a look at the restoration section there - you'll see what can be saved and how much effort it requires.

I always recommend new guys to not buy a razor in need of restoration and go for something that's already ready to go. Saving $5-$10 is absolutely not worth the gamble and the frustration. Unless you really are into that kind of thing and would rather pay more for the thrill.
 
Ok. I got a wild hair tonight. I unpinned it. No turning back now I guess.

The rust and pitting - What do I REALLY have to do in order to make it usable? I'm ok with a few of the marks. It gives it some character. But I wouldn't want it to mess someone's face up either because I didn't do enough on it to make it shave worthy. Can I just polish it a little more then hone and strop?

Thanks for the help.
 
Got mine on the bay, it predates Dovo, so my guess is 1920-1930. Search Dovo and you will get some idea.
 
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