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Eleven Years On

Writing about yesterday's shave (12/28) before I shave today.

Growth was perhaps Light+/Med- coming off the slightly uncomfortable GC shave 12/27. It's time to revisit the Merkur34C to see if I've learned any lessons from the GC.
Discarded the blade in the 34C (I think it was on 4-5 shaves) and put in a fresh AstraSP. Decided to stick with boar, switching back to my old Omega (let's call it, black handle Omega to keep it easier) and decide to go with an all-Akro shave. Excellent lather as always. I'm in a bit of a hurry to leave for work, I put on some energetic music.

Paying closer attention to blade angle, I'm trying to have a steeper approach in WTG pass especially. I think it really improved the effectiveness of the 34C, so my mindfulness and experience with the GC is having a noticeable positive impact! I also believe that taking a break from the 34C allowed me to approach it with a novice-mindset, making me more aware, gentle, and methodical. XTG is also productive and comfortable. ATG skims a little close on the outside of the neck, and brings just a whisper of irritation near the goatee--however, the alum confirms that I've achieved a more comfortable shave than the 34C has sometimes given in the past. Per usual, technique is the critical factor. I also feel like the Neutrogena probably helped keep my skin more elastic and hydrated. BBS/BBS- across the board, a small weeper or two on the neck or jawline.

And indeed, today I have Light- growth, yesterday's shave was very durable and smooth/not irritating. Going back to the GC today, will probably reuse yesterday's blade.
 
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12/29 SOTD

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Light growth shaves are always the most challenging to avoid irritation, so today I pay special attention to prep--good hot towel, make sure I have a really solid lather. It's the TGN Badger with Tabac, I apply a little Cremo to my face with lots of water while I make the lather.
Last night I was listening to Justice, and I keep the energy rolling today by putting on their live album from their second tour. Not as relaxing as my typical shave music, but it brings me a lot of happiness.
Yesterday's blade gets moved into the GC as planned. Really productive WTG strokes, XTG is also comfortable. Noticing that I have a tendency to overlap or buff too heavily in the goatee area below the lips, which is particularly sensitive. On ATG I buff too much at the corner of the mouth and get a weeper, I open another below the jawline near the chin--but overall the shave is still pretty comfortable. I struggle to move deliberately or slowly today, and find myself doing a little "chasing" of whiskers--a poor habit that I need to relinquish. Alum is more noticeable than yesterday, but I still feel like I achieved a low-irritation result and very thorough shave. BBS with moments of BBS+, even closer than yesterday's shave on the neck especially. The GC continues to provide satisfying results.
Post shave it's Neutrogena Hydro Boost, will probably apply a fragrance before I leave the house. And eye cream, naturally. Totally unsure what I will shave with tomorrow--before I try the FaTip I will want to give my skin a break, maybe a day without shaving beforehand. Will probably just return to the Merkur for further comparison.

Have a great shave today!
 
Alright, time to write about the 12/30 shave now that I'm home from work. Pretty tired so I might ramble a bit.

Light- growth today, the 12/29 shave was thorough and had strong staying power. I recall having a good shave with the SS and a fresh blade, so I decide to go that route and add variety by using the RR Plissoft with typical Arko + Cremo lather ingredients. My intention is to keep a light hand and avoid "going for broke" so I can have a really prepared "canvas" for the last shave of 2022 tomorrow. I end up succumbing to temptation somewhat, but the results were ok.

Music today was A Bath Full of Ecstasy by Hot Chip which feels appropriate.

Building the lather with the Plissoft is different, I notice that the lather improves when I massage the bristles more slowly against my face. I realize that I really scrub with my natural brushes, perhaps another lurking (and needless) source of irritation. The monster brush can easily coat my face in two broad strokes. Look forward to using it more in the future.

My better attention to blade angle leads to a more productive WTG pass. XTG doesn't cause any issues, but it's not close enough for my liking so I do some sparing ATG passes. I can feel the irritation presenting in the goatee area, buffing on the chin goes reasonably but I still open a surprise weeper. Rather than totally bow out of the shave, I do an additional pass on the neck that is closer to an XTG repetition than truly ATG. Alum confirms some needless overshaving in the goatee, but the chin and jawline don't have any complaints. BBS-/DFS+ is the conclusion. I use Nivea Sensitive, with a touch of Thayer's for toner. Neutrogena eye cream. Forgot to apply a scent before work, oh well.

About 12 hours later and I can feel the stubble returning, but overall it was a reasonably smooth shave. Two days of really light growth is tough to manage without causing a lot of discomfort. I will probably not shave on New Year's day, and I will start 2023 with the FaTip, give the GC a brief respite (if I can restrain myself).

Happy new year, all~
 
12/31 final shave of 2022...

Going to write a little backwards, and begin with the result: SUPER BBS with BBS- on upper lip, but overall it's a gorgeous shave for work tonight.

I went for the RR GC, two shaves already on the blade but I figure it'll still get the job done. Light growth (perhaps light+ on the neck, where I was more conservative yesterday) it's been a week of very thorough shaves without any breaks, but I have no irritation or ingrowns to speak of.

I choose the black handle Omega 49, Tabac for lather with a Cremo preshave glaze applied to face. Today's music is Random Access Memories by Daft Punk, which is a lovely and nostalgic album to conclude the year.

I face lather with intentional slowness/gentleness, the Plissoft taught me to keep a lighter hand. Perhaps it will help prevent some of that irritation that the Tabac seems to present. Beautiful rich lather today.
Moving into the shave, I maintain a steeper angle in the WTG pass and mindfully try not to overlap passes or shave where I've already removed lather. Make a lot of headway with the first two passes, but it's a special occasion and I'm totally going for broke. In the goatee area I actually relather and do a small 4th pass in true ATG (usually my S->N pass is more like a second XTG) with no weepers and exceptional closeness. Neck gets the closest shave it's had in a while. Alum confirms that today's shave wasn't needlessly close, and makes it clear I had much more irritation yesterday. I sometimes forget what it's like to have the alum make NO reaction. Spectacular BBS in many areas. Had a hard time keeping my attention from drifting (I have some preoccupations with work, etc) but I manage to refocus throughout the shave. Confirms that technique can overcome some of the weakness of the used blade.

I conclude with Neutrogena and a few drops of Thayer's to keep it lighter. Neutrogena eye cream applied too. Haven't picked a scent but will probably dab a little Veg before I leave the house (yes, I'm a fan of Arko and The Veg, a true degenerate).

May your 2023 be smooth. Mine will be smoother with the support of this community, thanks for being here.
 
1/1 First shave of the year!

I originally planned to skip today's shave, but I'm meeting up with friends and wanted to look reasonably presentable. Yesterday's thorough shave meant growth was light- today. I am absolutely exhausted from work this week.

I put on the local classical station, soak the TGN badger and hop in the shower. Earlier today I purchased a Yaqi Silvertip direct from their AliExpress storefront, figuring that I would like a second badger to rotate between--why have 1 of everything when you can have 2? I figure I won't receive the brush for a couple weeks and it will be a nice surprise when it arrives. Probably will be limiting myself to once monthly shave shopping to curb my spending, unless something really enticing pops up on the BST. Speaking of AliExpress, I noticed there's some shaving soap sold on there...has anyone tried it?

Anyway, I have a bowl full of soap scraps (tail end of an Arko stick, bits of MWF and some AOS lavender from years ago) that I water generously and I apply Cremo to my face. Actually whips up into a very fluffy lather--I think past shaves with the scrap bowl, I have not introduced sufficient water.

I have to restrain myself today and only do DFS, my skin needs a break. I grab the SS with the blade from earlier this week, now heading into its second use. My WTG pass I catch myself shaving too quickly (and probably not thoroughly enough) and XTG I note a tendency to add pressure--the mild razor just requires patience and acceptance of a less-close result. Alum has no feeling afterword, DFS- finish. Nivea without any Thayer's today, Neutrogena eye cream.
Planning tomorrow to try the FaTip, probably with a fresh blade to keep things objective. Happy new year!
 
1/2 SOTD
New year, and another new razor to try. Today's the first shave with the FaTip Classic Grande

Yesterday's DFS shave has grown into light+ growth. In order to reduce variables I go for reliable Tabac with the black handle Omega. I load a fresh AstraSP into the razor in the manner that @Guido75 has described, keeping everything upside down until the final clamping twists. Visually it looks pretty well aligned.

Shower, feeling moody today so it's James Blake's self titled album, which I listen to annually in January.

Hot towel and a little Arko glaze, methodically build a comfortable feeling lather. In the first passes with the FaTip I'm struck immediately by a couple things: first, the razor feels "rounder" without the straight bar guard, I am less immediately able to find my angle. However, it becomes obvious the blade has sufficient exposure to present lots of workable options. I also hate this handle; between the plating and the gentleness of the ridges, the FaTip handle just feels slippery (compared to all my other razors, which have knurled handles). The handle is also very light, making the balance feel wonky.
However, those drawbacks aside I am finding the shave comfortable and productive. I feel like the skill ceiling is higher with this razor, with more experience I can probably get a really close result--but even on the first shave, it's going quite well. Going smoothly enough that I commit to a full 3-pass, and end up with an extremely close BBS/BBS- result with only a couple weepers on the neck (too aggressively ATG on my left side, a tendency I have because I shave right handed and probably "pull" the razor more to the right than North) but alum handles them easily, and finds no other complaints.

Today's post is Neutrogena with Thayer's, Neut eye cream also.

I will mention that I am so excited by this result, and how all my shaves have been going over the last month. It's satisfying knowing that I already possessed sufficient skill and experience to pick up new razors and get clean, comfortable shaves... Part of me doubted that I could achieve these outcomes. So I'm very grateful. And it means that I can feel free to experiment more, knowing that I will (hopefully) not butcher my face like I did in the early days.
I also have an inkling of curiosity if my vintage user-grade razors were giving me mediocre results due to my errors, or if I need to experiment with more blades or pay closer attention to their alignment, etc. because the Gillette Old Type OC has such a similar head to the FaTip, and yet I only remember it giving really harsh shaves.... so something must be different.

Anyway, I got an alert that my Yaqi brush should be shipping soon, earlier than originally expected! And I purchased some new software off the BST that I look forward to trying. I guess I'll wait until next month to make more purchases... I'd like to try Cella and maybe look into some new blade options (Personna labs?) and should probably restock Arko and AstraSPs, just in case. Also interested in doing an Astra SP/SS comparison.
 
the FaTip handle just feels slippery (compared to all my other razors, which have knurled handles). The handle is also very light, making the balance feel wonky.
The sad part is that Fatip is M4.5 rather than your regular M5 so you cannot swap handles (well not without potentially damaging threading of either the head of the handle). I am guessing you have a Fatip Original as they call it with a hollow handle? I personally prefer the Fatip Piccolo which has the same head (they actually all share the same head except for the slant obviously) but with a solid brass handle I find that very nicely balanced. It is in the smaller width size though so that might not be to your liking. And they came out with large solid handle called Il Grosso - no knurling at all but reviews tell me it is grippy.
Gillette Old Type OC has such a similar head to the FaTip, and yet I only remember it giving really harsh shaves.... so something must be different.
I think they indeed share the geometry but the Fatip has longer and more rounded teeth compared to the Old Type making it just as aggressive but feel more comfortable (from what I can tell from pictures as I don’t have an Old Type).

Aggression wise they say the Fatip is up there with the R41 (in fact the first version of the R41 was a commissioned Fatip build for Mühle). I think that that’s true and yet I find them really comfortable and easy to use.

Glad you liked your shave. I had the same experience coming from a KCG razor to the Special Edition.

Enjoy!

Guido
 
Thanks for writing back @Guido75 :) Immediately following my shave today I started reading about the FaTip handle issue, it's annoying they chose an "exotic" thread length/pitch. I will probably just adjust to that razor and keep my right hand drier/rinse only the head. The weight issue is not so annoying, I think the longer thinner handle might be equally problematic--and it's not exactly knurled either. You are correct that mine is a "Classic Grande."

I think they indeed share the geometry
Let's look at mine side-by-side, shall we? It will be obvious which is which--my old type looks OLD.

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Man, that blade exposure on the Old Type is massive. and the blade tabs stick out like crazy! Definitely similar head geometry, don't know how much the rounded teeth make a difference but the FaTip certainly covers the blade more. For some reason I imagined the R41 as some totally-insanely-aggressive razor, but maybe that's just my imagination. I just stumbled across this thread about improving the shaving experience with an Old Type--I never had much problem with the blade biting, I just felt like I was scraping my face off even in WTG passes. Someday I'll pick that razor back up again--but I don't know if I'll ever bother to have it replated.
 
For some reason I imagined the R41 as some totally-insanely-aggressive razor
Well there are actually multiple versions of the R41 with definitely varying aggressiveness. The current model is the most mild of them all (which is still pretty aggressive). The 2011 model is presumably the fearsome one*. And the 2009 is basically a Fatip Piccolo*.

*) if I recall and read correctly. I myself have the most current model. And the Fatip is just adorable in design and shaving experience. O, before I forget - YMMV 😊
 
Thanks for writing back @Guido75 :) Immediately following my shave today I started reading about the FaTip handle issue, it's annoying they chose an "exotic" thread length/pitch. I will probably just adjust to that razor and keep my right hand drier/rinse only the head. The weight issue is not so annoying, I think the longer thinner handle might be equally problematic--and it's not exactly knurled either. You are correct that mine is a "Classic Grande."


Let's look at mine side-by-side, shall we? It will be obvious which is which--my old type looks OLD.

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Man, that blade exposure on the Old Type is massive. and the blade tabs stick out like crazy! Definitely similar head geometry, don't know how much the rounded teeth make a difference but the FaTip certainly covers the blade more. For some reason I imagined the R41 as some totally-insanely-aggressive razor, but maybe that's just my imagination. I just stumbled across this thread about improving the shaving experience with an Old Type--I never had much problem with the blade biting, I just felt like I was scraping my face off even in WTG passes. Someday I'll pick that razor back up again--but I don't know if I'll ever bother to have it replated.
You might like these photos of the blade exposure for an old type.
 
Yep. I read about the stories and then saw your close ups. I think my skin will find it too daunting. So I never pursued to get one - even though they are quite easy to get by. O yeah and I read a lot of reviews on cracked handles.

And after getting my latest acquisition I am out of razor stands 😅 anyway.

But it sounds like you think I am missing out?

Guido
 
You might like these photos of the blade exposure for an old type.
That microscope you have is cool, and really illustrates the concept of "exposure." Thanks for taking and sharing. Regarding what you said in that thread about the difference of a quarter turn... would the fact that my Old Type has a cracked handle make any impact on its aggressiveness? (Trying to blame hardware and not technique here lol)
 
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