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DoubleTap Defense Derringer

Pulled out something I haven't looked at in years and realized that there was absolutely no information (other than the usual blah-blah) online.

IIRC, it was around 2013 when DoubleTap Defense brought out their two shot DA derringers and made a big splash...or a flash in the pan, as it turns out.

Short version: these are incredibly niche weapons and expecting more (and advertising more) than their very limited role, in addition to drama, production, and patent lawsuits between the developer & manufacturer led to the demise of the company.

The DT derringer is one of the few 2 shot derringers worthy of carry. As it is DA, there is no monstrous, exaggerated hammer-pull, it is incredibly slim, and very easy to use. There was substantial griping about the unregulated (not angled to be zeroed at the same distance) barrels, inadequate accuracy at/beyond seven yards, and brutal recoil.

Owners were advised never to disassemble their pistols, as the bushings for the two halves were very light tension-fit, and a special tool (nominally) is required for disassembly/reassembly.

I had not had this out for over 8 years, and realizing DT is now D-funct, thought I would post a pictoral and a few upgrades, in case anyone else was searching.

To start. Usage:
The main gain of function with the DT is the quick and easy two-shot capability. It is lighter than most other .45 or 9mm SA derringers, but in sizing, it is basically like mashing an ADC derringer flat. E.g., itis flatter, but is slightly taller and longer than its SA cousin. It hides well in a back pocket.

Overall, its best application is in the "hand-off", e.g., a robber has a drawn gun, the victim hands over car keys, then phone, the "wallet" pop-pop. This relies on building the robbers confidence and comfort with repetition, the delivering two shots at arms length to the head/chest. This has been taught for decades with the Airweight, but relies somewhat on baggy or large pockets. The Airweights are easily useable out to 50 yards, with practice (i.e., Claude Werner, Rogers Academy), but the DT is arms-length and possibly a fluck beyond. Again, the DT is completely a niche weapon.

There was a list of compatible and incompatible ammunition. Again, the short version is that light subsonic rounds will be most comfortable to shoot. SuperVel's Hush Puppy rounds are (IMO) top-tier, if you actually carry the DT. Best carry locations are hip pocket or off-side coat.

I'm going to discuss disassembly from here.
 
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Here 'tis. The grip bushings from the factory have very light tension, and were designed that way to free-spin with unauthorized disassembly. This will vary, between specimens, and moderate heat will always help. The Allen screws are 7/32.

I used a soldering iron, tip resting on the thread end of each grip screw for about 10 minutes to crack them loose, as I did not know which, if any, had thread-locker as threatened by the owners' manual. I was able to remove all of mine without issue. I then used the screws to pull the bushings from the frame and degreased the bushings and the holes in the frame. I then carefully wiped JB Weld around each bushing barrel, and a light coating wiped into the frame recesses, then pressed the bushings back in place, cleaning up excess epoxy with brake cleaner.

I then trimmed all of the grip screws down by 2 threads, as part of the "security" is the intrusion of the bolt-body into the bushing. What DT refers to as a "proprietary fastener" is actually a triple-square head in the bushing. I'm not sure exactly what size, but I have the two most likely options enroute. I expect the JB Weld to be more than adequate to hold the bushings, allowing easier disassembly in the future, but just in case...
IMG_20240115_142612866.jpg
 
I really like this design. It is a clever and significant evolution of the Hi-Standard and DA-38 derringers, utilizing offset cams and independent hammers, rather than a sequenced cam and moving firing pin.

IF YOU ATTEMPT DISASSEMBLY: DO SO WITH THE DT INSIDE A LARGE ZIPLOCK.

You will need to remove the sliding buttons that move the barrel locking block. A CountyComm plastic Norton cleaning stick is perfect, as it is non-marring and very thin, but any very thin tool will work. The buttons are press-fit on a stainless roll pin. Once one is removed, the other will drop off.

In pic #2, you can see the spring and plunger for the barrel locking block, and the small washer and spring for the trigger return. They will eject with enthusiasm, as the halves of the frame are separated. Use your thin pry tool to begin separation inside the grip well, gently working your way around the frame. Keep the muzzle-end of the frame facing you, to capture flying parts (there WILL BE at least two).

The firing pins are contained modular units, which I did not try to break down.

The design is complex, and really should not ever need disassembly, but as these are rare, and as someone may need to swap parts, I thought this would be worthwhile.
 
The spring loaded barrel locking block is the most challenging part of reassembly. On my specific model, at least, the plunger was not effectively retained by it's frame recess. The solution I found was to hold the block down with my finger, then run the Allen wrench I used for disassembly through the notch in the frame where the block release button will go to hold the blick down. I then had room to wiggle the upper half of the frame down over the locating pins and related parts.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND either immediately rubber banding or clamping the frame halves in place. They are not likely to quickly separate, but as the DT is no longer made, you will have to source or fabricate any lost parts.

After the JB Weld is dry and everything is reassembled tomorrow, I will show my attempt at recoil mitigation. More to follow...
 
As an aside, I said the design was clever. In pic #2, you see a round-nosed detent bearing immediately below a ballbearing, just above the guide rod for the trigger return spring. When the trigger is pulled, it pushes the detent bearing against the ball bearing, which is forced into a small recess in the barrel locking lug. This ensures that the locking lug stays in place during the (stout) recoil.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
The spring loaded barrel locking block is the most challenging part of reassembly. On my specific model, at least, the plunger was not effectively retained by it's frame recess. The solution I found was to hold the block down with my finger, then run the Allen wrench I used for disassembly through the notch in the frame where the block release button will go to hold the blick down. I then had room to wiggle the upper half of the frame down over the locating pins and related parts.

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND either immediately rubber banding or clamping the frame halves in place. They are not likely to quickly separate, but as the DT is no longer made, you will have to source or fabricate any lost parts.

After the JB Weld is dry and everything is reassembled tomorrow, I will show my attempt at recoil mitigation. More to follow...

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I finally had the "proprietary" bits show up. A good guess on my part- they are M4 triple-square. Haaaard to find good ones. I got a 3 pack from Amazon, and they are just a tad loose, but provide a better purchase than trying to make a star-drive fit.

In the pic, I was able to get some light into the bushing-wells. This is after trimming about 1/6" or 2 and some threads off the bolt tips. From the factory, if you need the star-drive to anchor the bushing, you will probably have to either file the tip of the bit to a flat 90 degrees to the shaft and possibly use a carbide bit to create a divot to allow the splines to bite. My advice is to use heat as outlined above to remove the bolts, should you ever need to, before trying to mod the M4 bits, as that is a modestly advanced skill to do correctly.
IMG_20240201_181359020.jpg
 
I referenced removing the press-fit buttons for the slide lock, and using a punch through the off-side of the frame in reassembly. This pic highlights the button and block relationship. Barely visible, on the lower frame half, is the hole for the opposite button. On reassembling, you will need to manually hold the slide-lock plunger down, insert a small punch into the hole on the outside of the frame, line the punch up and into the hole in the slide-block, and lower the frame half onto the locating pins while holding the slide-block bak towards the grip, and wiggle it together. Slide the slide-block lever pin through against the punch, then press the off-side button on. Replace frame bolts and you're done.
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There are a few accessories you may find, namely the target grip and the two-round speedloaders. The grip makes it much more pleasant to shoot, but is made of a catchy rubber, and defeats the slick pocket-carry option.

I ordered a sorbothane cheek pad, and cut a strip to stick on the spine of the grip. We'll see how this works. I'm optimistic, as sorbothane has worked well for pretty much every application I've tried.
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Lastly, the speedloader, and another option that was bemoaned by some, initially- the two-round 1/3 moon-clip.

These moon-clips are Ranch Products, which do not generally take the tightest case grip. Something else I will test my next time out, but, at the dinner table at least, they fit, with a bit of flex. Unless they make extraction a bear, I'll be using them instead of the strips.

Some reviewers wished that the 1/3 clips were an option, but I could not find where anyone had actually ordered a pack to try. We shall see...
IMG_20240201_181624884.jpg
 
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One reviewer was unhappy because his grip door would not stay closed. You can adjust the depth of the bearing detent with a skinny flat-head screw driver to adjust the tension.
 
Again, this is not something I would encourage the average shooter to buy, but if you have one, hopefully this is helpful.

If you want something in a real caliber that is close to "prison wallet" concealable, and you aren't uncomfortable with the concept of contact shooting under pressure, this definitely could have a place in your bag.
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
Lastly, the speedloader, and another option that was bemoaned by some, initially- the two-round 1/3 moon-clip.

These moon-clips are Ranch Products, which do not generally take the tightest case grip. Something else I will test my next time out, but, at the dinner table at least, they fit, with a bit of flex. Unless they make extraction a bear, I'll be using them instead of the strips.

Some reviewers wished that the 1/3 clips were an option, but I could not find where anyone had actually ordered a pack to try. We shall see...
View attachment 1789496

Is that the two round moon clip? Looks more like a rubber speed strip for two rounds? :)
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
Again, this is not something I would encourage the average shooter to buy, but if you have one, hopefully this is helpful.

If you want something in a real caliber that is close to "prison wallet" concealable, and you aren't uncomfortable with the concept of contact shooting under pressure, this definitely could have a place in your bag.
It’s definitely thin and flat…
 
I remember seeing these things back in the day.

Only one word comes to mind...

*Ouch*

That thing must feel like someone hitting your hand with an aluminum baseball bat when you fire off a round.
 
I remember seeing these things back in the day.

Only one word comes to mind...

*Ouch*

That thing must feel like someone hitting your hand with an aluminum baseball bat when you fire off a round.
Not quite as bad as the Lone Eagle SSP, a 12" barrel in .308, but yes, pretty stout.😜

I'm hopeful that the sorbothene will work as well as the full size grip.
 
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