Do I need to shave against the grain?

[Sttho1980]

Hey. New to double edge shaving but got addicted to the Wilkinson sword I got on the cheap and ended up upgrading a week later to a merkur 39c (sledge hammer) .However after all the reviews I read I expected it to be a lot sharper, the only way to get a totally Smooth shave it to go against the grain, 2 standard passes and I can feel the grain of I brush my hand against it .I am shaving everyday, although I don't have that much stubble and I am using Nivea face wash and astra sp Blades .
Should I need to shave against the grain or am I doing some thing wrong?
Also can I just shave against the grain only?

Many thanks for your help .

 

[StratMan]

with my beard the ONLY way to get BBS is to go ATG. I do 3 passes, first XTG and 2 ATG

 

[xxvaleria]

There's no requirement to shave against the grain. However, that will tend to get you the smoothest shave. Just do it with the last pass so that you won't get a severe razor burn.

 

[BigJ]

I agree. ATG is not required and many here omit that pass.

For me an ATG pass is helpful in getting optimal shaves. But that’s me. YMMV!

 

[DEPenguin]

^^What Stratman and Valeria said . . .

I use a Merkur 38C (barbershop pole handle) and I really love it. I know it's something along the lines of mid-mild but as they said above I've always had to go 3 passes with the last being ATG, and even still I have one dang problem area I can't seem to nail down, but I'm working at it.

Every day I try to remind myself that one doesn't have to chase the BBS shave. Nobody is going to walk up to you, stroke your face, and say "You missed a spot, buddy." No one is going to run a credit card against your cheek to check your shave performance. Don't get me wrong, I still pursue the smoothest result possible because I like a challenge and the ultimate feel of a job well done--but there is nothing at all wrong with an 'acceptable' or 'presentable' end result save for your own comfort and shave OCD

 

[Invicta]

Also can I just shave against the grain only?

Only you can check this out by trying it; there are a few shavers that do it that way. However for most shavers the ATG pass follows a number of passes to get gradual stubble reduction. It all depends on what standard you want.

 

[musicman1951]

You only have to shave ATG if you want a BBS. Not required at all. You can get very close blade buffing XTG.

I have tried ATG on the first pass and it is not pleasant. If you have a beard like a 12 year old it might be fine, but we already know you don't from the rest of your post.

 

[John Rose]

...2 standard passes and I can feel the grain of I brush my hand against it.

Just beware of what I call "ghost stubble".
For my last touch-up pass I'll be running my fingertips over my skin ATG looking for stubble, and I'd be blade-buffing over the same spot (typically on either side of my adam's apple) repeatedly, trying to get rid of it. Eventually I give up, and discover after it dries for 20-30 that it's actually BBS.
Now I'm more aware of it and don't try so hard to get BBS.

Also can I just shave against the grain only?

Sure.
Unless it gives you razor burn or something.
It will not void the warranty to find out.

 

[Esox]

Welcome to the forum!

Should I need to shave against the grain or am I doing some thing wrong?

If you want a BBS finish you'll need to shave ATG but that doesnt mean you have too. Its purely personal preference. I settle for nothing less than a complete BBS finish that lasts at least 12 hours and usually more.

Also can I just shave against the grain only?

YES!

I routinely shave ATG first pass at 48 hours growth with a Fatip Grande. My first shave like that below.

Shave #7

Go big or go home, as the saying goes...

50 hours since last shave

Knowing what I do of Feather blades, I wanted to make sure I had the most slickness available and this Captain's Choice North has never failed in that area, or any other for that matter.

As I said earlier, I have hopes of achieving a "One Pass Wonder Shave" and I thought this blade might be up to it.

Lather up and start directly ATG, paying attention to a shallower angle to try and avoid the harshness I usually find with these blades. Slight tugging but really not bad considering what it had to deal with. Long smooth strokes ATG/XTG all across my face with some light buffing along my jawline ATG/XTG.

Finish that pass and felt I did well but my technique for this type of shave will need some refining and a wipe with a wet hand confirmed it.

I had a very good DFS, and a quick one too. I only had one tiny drop of blood on the right point of my chin.

Lather again and buffed over my entire face. Buffing with this razor really is nice and easy. Partly to the teeth aiding in dragging the lather back and I believe the smooth slick plating. The cap and teeth are so smooth that its really like oiled glass. This razor does not drag over my skin, it skims like an air hockey puck.

Wipe and check when finished, BBS everywhere but my jawline and the base of my neck.

To get a BBS everywhere shave I actually needed two more buffing passes, but I was shaving stubble so short I couldnt feel it with my fingers through the lather and only on checking with a wet hand, but the blade was telling me it was cutting. I stopped when the blade could find nothing else too cut, anywhere.

This shave is very close.

As usual for me with Feather blades, they're a bit harsh. I finished with slight irritation on my neck, more on the right side than the left and these creams leave my skin feeling....I still dont know how to describe it. Fresh, clean, smooth and refreshed would be a good start to describing the feeling it leaves me with.

I've been shaving like that with my Grande since Oct. 2017 with very few issues that wernt my own fault.

With my MMOC and a PTFE blade at around 100 hours growth. Jan. 2019;

I didnt record my last shave here, but it was Monday evening or night. I dont remember.

MMOC/PTFE for its 4th shave.

WK.

Maggard Synthetic.

~100 hours since last shave. I dont think it would matter if it was around 200 hours.

Single buffing pass ATG. One clean up. The MMOC is all business and this was business as usual.

Nice comfy BBS. What more could be asked for.

To shave like that successfully I need a razor that offers a very rigid design so the blade doesnt flex and gives me a smooth shave. Minimal blade gap is also a plus because theres less chance of the razor biting. Blade exposure is less critical, but more blade exposure equates to higher efficiency.

The most important parts of learning to shave like that however are understanding your beard map so you're able to shave directly ATG and finding the right blades for you. I've tried over 30 different DE blades and of them all, only two let me shave like that with a close, comfortable BBS in less than two passes, Polsilver and Gillette Yellow.

Using my Fatip Grande, its a single quick buffing pass following directly ATG and one clean up over each swirl growth pattern either side of my Adam's apple.



That shave with my Grande takes me around 3 minutes, from loading my brush to toweling off. With a Polsilver blade a 12 hour BBS is my norm.

Because the GEM MMOC has more blade exposure of an even more rigid edge, my strokes are twice as long and I need half as many.

The Fatip is much more user friendly than the MMOC. The MMOC still presents me with a challenge with a fresh blade and I've been using it consistently for 7 or 8 months.

Before attempting a shave done so aggressively you'll be very well served by learning the basics first. Learn and understand your best angle of use with the razor and master it. Shaving directly ATG first pass isnt mainstream, but with the right tools for the job its surprisingly easy once the basics are well understood.

For me, a rigid design is a must for shaving like that and there is lots to read about such designs on the forum. I can shave directly ATG first pass with several of my razors. Gillette post war Tech, NEW SC, and Gillette Old Types. All are especially rigid designs and all are very smooth. Blade gap varies as well as blade exposure. More blade exposure makes for a more efficient razor. Less blade gap, for me personally, means a more comfortable shave because my skin is fairly sensitive and doesnt tolerate blade gap very well.

The amount of blade extending beyond the red line is blade exposure. The space between the green lines is blade gap.

As examples, my Fatip Grande.

My Gillette NEW SC.

My made in Canada Gillette Old Type that has, literally, no blade gap at all.

They all shave ATG first pass wonderfully. My Grande is one buffing pass and a single clean up for a 12 hour BBS. My NEW SC is 2 full passes buffing and another pass from my jawline and lower for a 10-12 hour BBS. My Old Type is the same 2 1/2 passes for a 10 hour BBS.

The GEM MMOC is an entirely different animal.

With a fresh blade, a single buffing pass ATG and one very light clean up the BBS lasts nearly 19 hours. Through 12 shaves with a single blade, the BBS finish typically is 14 hours.

I'm 52 and have coarse, dense growth. I wish I had the beard of a 12 year old! lol. There are a few of us that shave like this, but not many. @rabidus now only shaves buffing ATG first pass with an ATT SE1. @jmudrick can too with either DE or SE. Both are also head shavers. I'm not.

 

[StratMan]

Also can I just shave against the grain only?

Many thanks for your help .

sorry just saw this comment.. i shave ATG every day and have no adverse reactions to it... BUT one day early on into my DE shaving journey i thought it would be great to save time and go straight into a ATG pass..

long story short, i never did it again.. got super red raw razor burn.. I did this cos i had read about others such as @Esox being successful, but of course this is such a YMMV thing

i advise if you want the BBS and can handle ATG do it, but make sure you reduce your whiskers first with WTG, XTG then ATG, if that is successful and your game give it a crack first time, but be wary

 

[robphilldog]

I agree. ATG is not required and many here omit that pass.

For me an ATG pass is helpful in getting optimal shaves. But that’s me. YMMV!

+1
do you have to shave ATG? certainly not, but in order to get the smoothest shave or achieve BBS it definitely helps

I only ever shave ATG if I'm going out to town or want to get super close, otherwise I just shave 1x WTG and 1x XTG

BTW, welcome aboard

 

[ajkel64]

As others mentioned, there is no requirement to shave ATG. My father and his father who was a barber never shaved ATG. I do shave ATG but it is my last pass once I have shaved WTG and XTG. It is what ever works for you. My dad is nearly 82 still does a 3 pass shave everyday with a cart goin WTG and then 2 XTG passes. If shaving ATG gives you grief then give it a rest.

 

[Macfrommichigan]

Your angle is critical; if that is off a bit a good shave is challenging.

Relax. With time it all comes together.

 

[DMT]

If you find that going against the grain causes you too much irritation avoid it. But if you still want an against the grain pass, you can cheat and do a nearly against the grain pass. Shave diagonally across the grain coming from the direction of the growth. You're shaving half against the grain and half across it. In my opinion baby butt smooth is overrated anyway and it's better to just aim for a good clean and comfortable shave

 

[Twelvefret]

Shaving ATG is not against the grain if your hair grows in an upward direction, see @Esox post. So, it is possible to beard map and just go ATG one some parts and with on the other parts. One way I like to go ATG is by barely letting the blade touch my face. I can accomplish a lot this way.

 

[dmshaver]

Lots of good advice already given, I just want to say welcome to B & B.

 

[Necromonger]

I was taught to do three passes, with the grain as the first pass, across the grain as the second pass and then against the grain for the smoothest possible shave. I typically shave that way since I get a 5 'oclock shadow noon!