DE Shaved a few times, need help w/ restoring!

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Hello all, I have been a lurker here for quite awhile, but now I have a legit reason to make an account! Before today my one and only razor was my DE Merkur. Well, today my dad surprised me with an old model Gillette DE razor....awesome right? Well, there are a few problems and some things I need help with. On my Merkur, there isn't a twist to open, but I have tried out a twist to open in the past...and it was very smooth. On this Gillette...for lack of a better explanation, it feels tough to turn, but it does open and close. I am just afraid of it breaking...any advice on how to free it up? Also...there is a dial numbered 1-9. What the heck does this thing do? And lastly, there is a bit of old grime and build up on it, how do I remove that without harming the razor?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks so much!
PS: If pictures are needed, I can definitely provide...but I will need some instructions on how to do it for this site via iPhone.

 

[Docd]

Sounds like you've got a Gillette adjustable. As for the dial, it changes the aggressiveness. 1 is lowest, while 9 is most aggressive. I would try letting it soak in hot water and dish soap. That freed mine up pretty good. Let us know how it goes. BTW an adjustable Gillette is a great razor. Just be sure to adjust it with the doors open. Good luck!

 

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Soaked it in dish soap and hot water for a bit, cleaned up nicely with a toothbrush. Yet, the twist to open feature seems to still be struggling. I feel like I am having to twist a bit harder than I should be. In between it opening and closing, it is smooth as butter...but right before it closes, it kind of comes to a stand still and the twister becomes, well, harder to twist, and it eventually clamps down. Same problem with opening, you have to twist pretty hard to get it to open, but just after opening it is a breeze. Any solutions to this?

 

[BBrad]

Welcome to B&B . . . I hope you enjoy this community as much as I do!

The final quarter-turn of the TTO knob compresses a spring inside the handle. This compression spring compensates for the adjustment delta to ensure that the razor is always fully closed and clamping the blade firmly. If you do not feel the spring compressing, the razor will not be properly locked down resulting in a problem shave at best.

Over time and use, the compression spring becomes "gunked" with soap scum and mineral scale, filling up the space between the spring coils. If the original owner used a higher setting, the spring did not need to be compressed as much to lock the razor as it would have been if a lower setting was used, so the crud was able to accumulate.

Time, patience, hot water, and dish soap will eventually solve the problem, along with use. A few drops of mineral oil won't hurt, either, as it will help soften the crud.

Some may advise to disassemble the razor, but I would only agree if you have an early Fat Boy with the threaded end cap. If you have a later FB or Slim, the end cap is crimped and may be damaged beyond use on disassembly. (It is made of that rare material, unobtanium.) The compression spring is located right behind the end cap, so full disassembly is not required if you can safely remove the cap and pull the spring.

 

[Docd]

I've had a slim and now have a fatboy. The TTO knob feels loose when it's opened, but on closing there's about a quarter or half turn with double resistance. I think this is normal for the adjustables since more pressure is put on the head with higher adjustments. Is it only on the final closure and first opening? If so I think it's fine, just don't torque it tight.

 

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BBrad: I do recognize mine as having the threaded end cap as you mentioned, how easy is dis assembly? Are new users allowed to post pictures? If so, I will get some up pronto!

Docd: It is definitely just on final closure and first opening. Also, I know you mentioned earlier to only turn the adjuster knob when the doors were opened, correct? How do I check to make sure this feature is still working (not the doors of course, the adjustable part)?

Thank you both for your patience and help!

 

[BBrad]

You will have to make a tool to fit into the two holes in the cap and unscrew it. Be careful not to lose the spring if it comes flying out. Clean the spring as well as the cavity that it fits into. Resist the urge to take the razor completely apart . . . maybe just flush out its innards real good while the cap is off!

Checking the adjuster is easy. Open the doors, set the dial at 1. Move the adjuster tang (the part with the four fingers that poke up through the base plate) up with your finger. It should move easily. Release it, and gravity should let it drop back down in contact with the adjuster dial. If it does not move, or if it sticks or binds, it either needs to have the crud soaked out of it (literally) if it is gunked up, or straightened if it is bent.

If the tang moves freely, with the razor set at 1 the fingers should just barely stick up above the surface of the base plate. Turn the dial to 9, and you should see more of the tang fingers protruding through the base plate. It is that simple.

As for adjusting the razor with the doors opened or closed . . . Gillette did not specify (in the instruction sheet) that the doors needed to be open. No harm will come to your razor by adjusting with the doors closed . . . but it is easier to turn the collar if the doors are loosened slightly. Either way, the compression spring (that we have been talking about) will either compress more or relax depending on which way you turn the dial. Nothing will bend or break . . . the spring will do its "thing"!

 

[Slash McCoy]

Always twist it the last 1/4 turn closed, but don't force it beyond that point. The last bit is important for holding the blade securely and stabilizing the gap. Always adjust before you completely close the doors.

 

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The adjustment seems to be working great! Now, on to a few more soaks in hot water to see if we can free up some of this gunk! Thanks for the help guys!