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Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
You only need a secret handshake for GD soap if the “GD” stands for “Golden Dawn.”
I don't understand.
You only need a secret handshake for GD soap if the “GD” stands for “Golden Dawn.”
Today I smoothed my newest stone and then used it to hone a razor. I used the burr method to set the bevel and went through the progressions through the new stone.
View attachment 941012
Today's victim was my 5/8” round point J.R. Torrey Artist razor which was made In Worcester Massachusetts. Good USA steel. I bought this nice razor with its pretty nice Bakelite scales for $15.99 + $5 shipping "shave ready" from johnloc on eBay.
I wasn't entirely happy with the edge I received. To be fair to the vendor, none of the razors I purchased "shave ready" impressed me as being as sharp or comfortable as the recent edges which have come off my stones.
Maybe today's effort won't measure up when I shave with it, but I gave it my best shot.
View attachment 941013
The new stone I added today is my 8x3x1/2" Hard Translucent Arkansas. My kit now includes several stones and such.
I flattened the 1K stone only.
- Double-Time Flattening Stone
- 1K (Naniwa New Chosera)
- 3K (Naniwa S2 Super Stone)
- 5K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
- 8K (Steelex Deluxe Japanese Ceramic Waterstone)
- 12K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
- Arkansas Hard Black finishing stone
- Hard Translucent Arkansas (HTA) finishing stone
- Zulu Grey finishing stone
- Universal Stone Holder
I did not use the Hard Black Arkansas, the Zulu Grey, or the Universal Stone Holder. I used on the Translucent Ark WD40 + four drops of Norton Honing Oil.
View attachment 941015
I suppose I'll find out soon enough as my next "chore" will be to shave.
Happy shaves to everyone,
Jim
Today I smoothed my newest stone and then used it to hone a razor. I used the burr method to set the bevel and went through the progressions through the new stone.
View attachment 941012
Today's victim was my 5/8” round point J.R. Torrey Artist razor which was made In Worcester Massachusetts. Good USA steel. I bought this nice razor with its pretty nice Bakelite scales for $15.99 + $5 shipping "shave ready" from johnloc on eBay.
I wasn't entirely happy with the edge I received. To be fair to the vendor, none of the razors I purchased "shave ready" impressed me as being as sharp or comfortable as the recent edges which have come off my stones.
Maybe today's effort won't measure up when I shave with it, but I gave it my best shot.
View attachment 941013
The new stone I added today is my 8x3x1/2" Hard Translucent Arkansas. My kit now includes several stones and such.
I flattened the 1K stone only.
- Double-Time Flattening Stone
- 1K (Naniwa New Chosera)
- 3K (Naniwa S2 Super Stone)
- 5K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
- 8K (Steelex Deluxe Japanese Ceramic Waterstone)
- 12K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
- Arkansas Hard Black finishing stone
- Hard Translucent Arkansas (HTA) finishing stone
- Zulu Grey finishing stone
- Universal Stone Holder
I did not use the Hard Black Arkansas, the Zulu Grey, or the Universal Stone Holder. I used on the Translucent Ark WD40 + four drops of Norton Honing Oil.
View attachment 941015
I suppose I'll find out soon enough as my next "chore" will be to shave.
Happy shaves to everyone,
Jim
What progression are you running? All the stones in sequence to the 12k and then a finisher?
You know that the Shaptons are a lower grit than the Naniwas (different rating system)? I don't know anything about the Steelex.
I agree that the tables are confusing. The binder seams to me to make as much of a difference as the grit rating on the korumaku to me - but what do I know. The lower grit especially.I'm running the sequence as you said.
I know Keith @Gamma (and others elsewhere; here, link, for example) have reported that the Japanese Shapton Pro I have is the same as the American Shapton Pro 15K.
I don't find a huge amount about the Steelex (rating system), but at Classic Edge the honemeister there says you can get a 16K edge with it (although it's an 8K stone).
Well, actually I know just about nothing.
If there's a system that correlates and compares the various stones by the various manufacturers I'd love to know about it.
I've gotten some good edges following the progression I've used but that doesn't mean I have a clue or that I know anything about comparing the grits of stones on an objective scale (if one exists).
Happy shaves,
Jim
There are some published comparison tables. One is linked here. How to read it is linked here.
I can understand some of it. Some. Not much. It certainly does not answer all my questions in a way I can understand so far, but maybe it does for rocket scientists.
Good points and why I prefer the natural stones - because I seem to be able to feel when the blade is ready to move on in a way that I personally can't with the synthetic stonesSomething I am learning as I transition to stones is the number of laps required to achieve an individually desired edge for shaving.
Another variable I have experienced is that just because the Torrey required 50 laps on the Thuringian, it's not a given the Salamander will respond to the same.
Complicating factors, therefore, include the metal, the stone, and the number of repetitions. This tells me that sending a razor out is at best a maybe.
Really, how does a ready blade feel?Good points and why I prefer the natural stones - because I seem to be able to feel when the blade is ready to move on in a way that I personally can't with the synthetic stones
For me:Really, how does a ready blade feel?
For me:
I watch the slurry for even movement up the blade face.
I listen and feel for the scratchiness along the bevel.
Scratchiness always seems to correspond to:
Poor slurry travel
Unrefined edge.
I increase torque through the X stroke at those points and gradually the edge polishes out. When I am not getting that resistance and the slurry travel is consistent along the bevel then it's time to move on. At first I was checking with magnification, but now I don't generally bother.
I have watched videos of Keith Johnson and Glen Mercurio hone on synthetics where they appear to be reading feedback and watching slurry. I just don't get it on the synthetics. Welsh slates, Scottish stones, Charnley Forests, even coticules, you can feel the interaction on the stone.
Do you get it on the synthetics? I can't follow it along the blade in the same way. I guess I need more practice.Okay, I considered that scratchiness was your reference. I have felt the same.
No, sir. I have only a yellow coticule and blue grey Thuringian. I suspect those are my terminal stones.Do you get it on the synthetics? I can't follow it along the blade in the same way. I guess I need more practice.
Yes, and thank you as I have had that experience.Also the stickiness when you get to the water stage on the naturals.