Damn Comfortable Shave

[Twelvefret]

Wow, I can hone a razor is less time than it takes you all to level a stone. Had no idea Arkansas were that much work.

Lapped the Coticule and Thuringian in less than a minute.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Wow, I can hone a razor is less time than it takes you all to level a stone. Had no idea Arkansas were that much work.

Lapped the Coticule and Thuringian in less than a minute.

Could you talks about how you lapped them? I'm just trying to get a larger understanding of what lapping natural stones is all about.

Family lore is that Arkansas stones are the best, and someday I'll try them properly. At which point I will be looking for advice from you and @Somerled. I just wish I'd paid attention when the guy tried to teach me honing back in the day.

I hope by that point I'll be experienced enough to give you good advice.

So far all I know is my Hard Black Arkansas seems to add another level of comfort to the edge without taking anything away from the sharpness of the edge.

The Arkansas stone I bought was merely the best price I could find on a stone mined, cut, and flattened by Dan's. It's my understanding that some Arks are not flat when you buy them, but Dan's are. I'll know how the Norton's compare soon.

I also know Arks are available in stones called Hard which aren't as hard as the Hard Black (or Surgical Black). An even softer Ark is available. I've not used anything except the Hard Black; it's a pure finishing stone according to how I see it.

There's a vendor selling "Arkansas" stones that people seem to like, but I've read his stones are not actually the same mineral or stone or composition as the Arks sold by Dan's and Norton's. That's not saying they're bad, just not the same. I'm making the point that the subject of Arkansas stones is pretty confusing but not hopelessly so.

Arkansas stones seem to be much more expensive than the Welsh slate, but much less expensive than jnats, coticles, Thuringians, and some others.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Seveneighth]

Could you talks about how you lapped them? I'm just trying to get a larger understanding of what lapping natural stones is all about.



I hope by that point I'll be experienced enough to give you good advice.

So far all I know is my Hard Black Arkansas seems to add another level of comfort to the edge without taking anything away from the sharpness of the edge.

The Arkansas stone I bought was merely the best price I could find on a stone mined, cut, and flattened by Dan's. It's my understanding that some Arks are not flat when you buy them, but Dan's are. I'll know how the Norton's compare soon.

I also know Arks are available in stones called Hard which aren't as hard as the Hard Black (or Surgical Black). An even softer Ark is available. I've not used anything except the Hard Black; it's a pure finishing stone according to how I see it.

There's a vendor selling "Arkansas" stones that people seem to like, but I've read his stones are not actually the same mineral or stone or composition as the Arks sold by Dan's and Norton's. That's not saying they're bad, just not the same. I'm making the point that the subject of Arkansas stones is pretty confusing but not hopelessly so.

Arkansas stones seem to be much more expensive than the Welsh slate, but much less expensive than jnats, coticles, Thuringians, and some others.

Happy shaves,

Jim

The fact that Dan's are the best source and the import charges are so high and I keep getting stung has been the main reason why I haven't gone down that route. It's also why I have put off buying a Bluesman razor.

In terms of lapping natural stones. I ended up lapping quite a few last year. The Welsh slates are pretty quick and easy, as are coticules. The ones that have given me a major headache are the Scottish stones. I destroyed a DMT plate with one - that's the Scots for you - tougher than diamonds. I do have a Water of Ayr that is also taking forever. I get it out once a week, lap it a bit more, give up and then put it into storage. The stone may have been a bargain but it's not going to be useable for a long time.

For lapping coticules Henk Bos' book stipulates not to use diamond, because it wrecks the garnets ( although people on this forum have poured scorn on that). Nevertheless, I play it safe and use silicon carbide for coticules.

 

[Twelvefret]

Jim,

This is from the source of my Coticule. I used 500 grit wet/dry and graphite carpenter pencil to make very light grids to show progress.
Tutorials | Ardennes-Coticule

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Today's mail has arrived...

My new Norton Translucent stone seems to me to be cracked. I've notified the vendor.

These soap samples were sent to me by a generous member. I can't wait to try them.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

My new Norton Translucent stone seems to me to be cracked.

 

[Seveneighth]

Today's mail has arrived...

View attachment 940396

My new Norton Translucent stone seems to me to be cracked. I've notified the vendor.

These soap samples were sent to me by a generous member. I can't wait to try them.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Feel for you. Has happened to me on three separate occasions with various stones.

 

[Esox]

Stones like that are very fragile. I'm surprised they dont bubble wrap them inside the cases. Even that may not end the possibility, mail handlers can be rough, but it would surely lessen it.

 

[Somerled]

My new Norton Translucent stone seems to me to be cracked. I've notified the vendor.

Jim

Man, thats a bummer.

Hope they are better at treating customers than the people you bought your Thater Boar from.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My shave this Thursday morning was pretty good.

Same razor as yesterday. Not a perfect shave, but not bad either. It is a learning process.

It was a good enough shave and very comfortable.

I've now shaved with the straight razor at least sixty times.

Lovely scent this bay rum.

I've already heard back from the vendor.

"We're very sorry if there appears to be something wrong with it. I had our On-Site Technician look at the pictures and he couldn't fully tell by looking at them if that line is a crack or just something from the manufacturer. Unfortunately, we're completely out of stock of these so we can't grab another one and look at it.

"You're definitely welcome to send it back for a full refund if you're not sure about using it."

I have every reason to believe the vendor is being straight with me. What do you think? Is there any reason to believe this is not a crack and that the stone shouldn't be returned?

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

I have every reason to believe the vendor is being straight with me. What do you think? Is there any reason to believe this is not a crack and that the stone shouldn't be returned?

I believe the vendor too, but I highly doubt its a manufacturing issue. It appears to be cracked around the exterior, but not yet in the center. It will eventually fail completely and you'll have two stones lol.

It might be possible to lap it out, but the stone is already stressed so it would likely reappear again. If you try honing a blade on it, you should be able to feel it.

 

[Somerled]

To be honest it almost looks too straight to be a crack. Looks more like it's been drawn by a pencil.
Does it feel like a break if your run your fingers over it?
Probably won't feel it if it's hairline.

If there's any doubt I would return it.
Mike's right, you could end up with two stones eventually.

 

[Esox]

I have a tiny chip in my Arkansas that I can just barely feel with my fingernail.

Its been there since I got the stone and its never spread. It doesnt bother me because I can work around it, but when I sharpen a knife and ride over it I can feel it and hear a click as the steel rides over it.

Feeling and hearing that across the full width of a stone would drive me bonkers lol. I would also assume it would mess up the edge on a straight.

 

[Somerled]

I have a tiny chip in my Arkansas that I can just barely feel with my fingernail.

View attachment 940436

Its been there since I got the stone and its never spread. It doesnt bother me because I can work around it, but when I sharpen a knife and ride over it I can feel it and hear a click as the steel rides over it.

Feeling and hearing that across the full width of a stone would drive me bonkers lol. I would also assume it would mess up the edge on a straight.

Lap it till it dissapears.
There's plenty meat left on that stone to survive a good lapping.

 

[Esox]

Lap it till it dissapears.
There's plenty meat left on that stone to survive a good lapping.

If it was more a problem than it is I would have had it done. That stone is a full inch thick, 2" wide and 8" long.

It could likely use a resurfacing after 30 some years lol.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I started a thread, linked, and posted photos of the Norton stone hoping to get input about whether this really in a crack. So far, the feedback is kinda mixed.

I'm not sure what to do or how to decide. Or course, I don't have to do anything just yet.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Lord Fatboy]

@Chan Eil Whiskers
I'd say from looking at it, that it's almost certainly a crack, but without feeling it...
Test it. If you can feel it with a thumbnail, and / or if it catches the end of a thin knife going back and forth across it at different angles, then it's a crack.
I've had many many many such stones, with cracks and holes, and once treated they are fine, though you have to use some care.
If it were a J-nat or Thuri or slate etc I would do what I always do: Make sure it's well lacquered, dig the line out, creating a small "trench", with a fine file tip & ruler, chamfer the edges of the new line created (see pic). You have to be careful with certain strokes, but if the stone is worth it... Even the stone in the picture - not the worst "trenched" stone I've ever had, I've had some that looked like Subway maps - was eventually cut up for slurry stones.
But, a Trans Ark..? I'd be a bit more leery of doing that, though I might give it a go. Lacquering can work wonders for a stone's stability, but I don't know how that would effect a trans Ark. I doubt that - like an Thuri or J-nat - it would soak in a wee bit and layer upon layer create the same kind of 'shell'. Arks are pretty brittle. If it's translucent, you should be able to shine a light through and see how deep it goes.
I don't think just lapping is the answer. Lapping brittle stones - which trans Arks are to an extent - with cracks in them you can end up with two or more stones.
Personally, I'd ask for my money back ad cut my losses.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You guys are the best.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Friday's shave was good.

The razor's edge was improved by recent stropping on the red & black pastes. No doubt about it. I may still hone it a bit more. I'll think about it.

This soap is a sample given to me by a very generous member. Thanks so much.

It's my first use today of any Grooming Department soap. I used very little but worked up a good lather. The soap is fine. I won't wax eloquent about it just yet; one shave is not enough for that. However, the scent is beyond belief great. That much is clear. Too bad the soap is virtually unobtanium; no GD non-veggie soap is available anywhere as far as I can determine.

I have my secret decoder ring somewhere, but don't know the secret handshake to buy GD soap.

Good stuff.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Tokyospike]

. . . don't know the secret handshake to buy GD soap.

You only need a secret handshake for GD soap if the “GD” stands for “Golden Dawn.”