I have struggled to get consistent results with a full honing going from bevel set to final edge using coticules. The unicot edge seems to work fine, but i do not want to give up almost one degree on my bevel angle. I have had some good edges from doing a full dilution, but i am not able do it consistently.
I have no problems using the coticule as a finisher after a synthetic 6-8 k stone, but they feel different then a "pure" coticule edge.
That was my starting point. I have one coticule that cuts well, but i struggle to finish with it. Part of the stone also seems to be a little brittle, but cuts well. It has been used for knifes lately, but i have better options for that use. So i decided to cut of the "bad" part and make one narrow hone (25 x 130) for bevel setting and one to start the finish on (50 x 130). The narrow stone was given a curve over the short distance, like a honing rod. By varying the angle of attack to the stone it is possible to change the effective bevel angle, which depends on your approach to the stone.
The bevel was reset with slurry on the narrow stone and finished on the flat wider stone. The flat stone will then only need to work on a smaller part of the bevel, like adding tape. I like to hone holding the stone in one hand. I do not think i would manage to hone on a narrow hone on the bench.
The edge was finished on an LV with water.
You introduce allot of new variables with this approach. You are working on a much smaller contact point, and care must be taken to hit the heel and toe to avoid creating a frown. The curved hone can also be much wider.
If you can master your dilucot honing, there is probably nothing for you here. I just found it interesting.
The edge was dulled by pulling it over the corner of a stone two times. It was brought back in only a few minutes on the narrow curved stone, and finished under running water.
The edge was not any better then what i have had before with some luck, but i removed the slurry dilution variable out, so it is easy to repeat.
The razor (Ralf Aust) also had the typical solingen bent spine.
This has nothing do with the convex stone
You can affect the bevel angle by a few degrees, which might not be good, but it is quite straight forward to calculate the approximate angle off attach you need to affect the bevel angle by e.g one degree. You do not want to overdue it and create a fat/tall bevel.
For coticule honing gods this probably seems a little more complicated then it needs to be.
More details can be added for anyone who is interested.
I was at least able to get a good edge with this stone this way.
I have no problems using the coticule as a finisher after a synthetic 6-8 k stone, but they feel different then a "pure" coticule edge.
That was my starting point. I have one coticule that cuts well, but i struggle to finish with it. Part of the stone also seems to be a little brittle, but cuts well. It has been used for knifes lately, but i have better options for that use. So i decided to cut of the "bad" part and make one narrow hone (25 x 130) for bevel setting and one to start the finish on (50 x 130). The narrow stone was given a curve over the short distance, like a honing rod. By varying the angle of attack to the stone it is possible to change the effective bevel angle, which depends on your approach to the stone.
The bevel was reset with slurry on the narrow stone and finished on the flat wider stone. The flat stone will then only need to work on a smaller part of the bevel, like adding tape. I like to hone holding the stone in one hand. I do not think i would manage to hone on a narrow hone on the bench.
The edge was finished on an LV with water.
You introduce allot of new variables with this approach. You are working on a much smaller contact point, and care must be taken to hit the heel and toe to avoid creating a frown. The curved hone can also be much wider.
If you can master your dilucot honing, there is probably nothing for you here. I just found it interesting.
The edge was dulled by pulling it over the corner of a stone two times. It was brought back in only a few minutes on the narrow curved stone, and finished under running water.
The edge was not any better then what i have had before with some luck, but i removed the slurry dilution variable out, so it is easy to repeat.
The razor (Ralf Aust) also had the typical solingen bent spine.
This has nothing do with the convex stone
You can affect the bevel angle by a few degrees, which might not be good, but it is quite straight forward to calculate the approximate angle off attach you need to affect the bevel angle by e.g one degree. You do not want to overdue it and create a fat/tall bevel.
For coticule honing gods this probably seems a little more complicated then it needs to be.
More details can be added for anyone who is interested.
I was at least able to get a good edge with this stone this way.
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