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Cotcule with oil

Do it at your own risk....

But depending on the micron you have it will give a white mirror polish, and your jnat will get super shiny too.

I'll tell ya the edge was...well make your own judgement if you do it and we can compare notes. I stopped using it after committing whole hog to nagura, and use CBN only between the tomo and water finishing.

The only possible down side is the darker color of the spray gets into any micro cracks you have, but I haven't seen any detrimental effects since the spray is so much finer than the stone.

I will give it a try, I currently have the CBN in 0.1 microns, I will give a spritz on the JNAT next time I use it.
 
You are correct, it is impossible to prove it, but please don't take my word for it, see others that have tried it as well.

Like I said I would be happy to take a razor you honed on your coticule and maximized it on water, I will then simply give it 40-50 laps on oil and send it back to you for you to try. The only variable will be the oil and my honing. If you want to take me out of the equation you can place 2 drops of oil and give it a go for your self. I promise the oil will clean right up with dish washing liquid.

I am working tonight, so I will post some pics of the stone with oil and then after the cleanup with water, there is no beeding up.

I appreciate the offer Doc, but if you are that sold on the idea of oil vs water on coticules, then I will dig out one of my coticules that isn't one of my favorites and give it a test with oil. As it stands now, I do happen to do all my finish work with oil rather than water - just not on a coticule. I use oil and an old black Arkansas stone for finishing my razors and when I do my part, it has given me the perfect smooth shave - literally nothing I could ask for as an improvement. All I try to do now is to create that same edge more often and more consistently on all my different razors. And on an Arkansas stone, in my opinion oil definitely imparts a better edge than using water. So could be true with a coti as well I suppose. I'll give it a try one of these next days.

Also, for the record, I stated in one of my last posts that Japanese water stones were non porous when actually they are porous. There is such a mix of information on the net that even getting a definitive answer to such a simple question as which stone and which sharpening stones are porous and which are non porous will provide a host of conflicting but supposedly definitive answers. Only thing everyone seems to agree on is that coticule stones are non porous. Well, not exactly true. There are folks that believe that every sharpening stone is porous to some degree, so nothing seems to be written in stone.
 
I will give it a try, I currently have the CBN in 0.1 microns, I will give a spritz on the JNAT next time I use it.

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How about the boxes of old coticules i own or have owned that say use oil or water..does that prove you can use oil?


I'm not saying you're wrong....rather that it almost impossible to prove you are right. There are so many variables in sharpening a razor edge that I would think one of the least of them would be if oil or water was used. In all honesty, I can sharpen the same razor on the same stone and get entirely different results - subtle, but different, and I'm a decent honer. If you are being honest, I would bet most of you could say the same. One bad stroke on a stone can have more effect than any quantity of water or oil or you might break through to a layer in your stone with a small impurity content that wasn't there the last time you honed with that stone. Not to mention "placebo effect" and it is as real with subtleties of sharpening as it is with food, pills or anything else. Maybe you just lifted the blade just a bit this time, or "caught" the edge slightly when turning the blade or setting it down on the stone. Countless other possibilities - and you are going to separate all of these from the single element of a bit of water vs a bit of oil? I'm sure you see my point.

A few years back, there was just as vehement an argument (actually, more so) that water worked better than oil on Arkansas stones with similar claims made on from both sides. I really do support anyone doing what they feel works best. However, there are lots of newbies that go by whatever is recommended on this board. If we recommend something that will or can actually ruin a razor or a stone, without at least pointing out that it is at least possible to do so and that many knowledgeable people and institutions claim that to be the case....well, you see where I am going. All I was doing is putting out the other argument so people can make a more informed decision. Most all of the sources for fine Japanese water stones I have seen (which are also non porous) also discourage the use of oil on their stones, so you at least have to ask yourself "why"...or at least I do.

And to the fellow that said all his Arkansas stones are non porous - you are probably correct, and this is the reason I urge you to at least use caution in using oil on any waterstone. Some noveculite (Arkansas stone) is porous and some is non porous and some is partially porous. All natural stones are a bit different from even their cousins of the same type of stone. So some water stones may do fine with oil, while others, even though listed as non porous, can be more porous and fill those pores with oil and you will have the devil getting it out. For those of you that have tried to unload a porous Arkansas stone filled with oil and gunk, you know what I'm talking about. I have had to boil stones in various mixtures and sometimes even that is only partially successful.
 
Now. What about oil on lapping film ?
Don't know, but give it a try. The only thing is I don't think the lapping will clean up after the oil, you can always save some for oil and some for water-they are cheap enough.
 
Thanks for all the info here, I have been using the smiths honing solution on all my stones lately with stellar results and i am really happy to have arrived at the party, even if late. FYI the smiths seems to rinse right off with a little warm water, I have not noticed any residuals at all and it seems to be spot on for viscosity.

Ian
 
I tried a few razors on my coti with baby oil. I am pretty convinced edges are a notch keener than running water or lather finished edges.
 
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Used this stuff on a vintage coticule when refreshing a Swedish steel razor, and ended up with an insane edge. Far above the sharpness I would usually expect from a coticule.
 
Some coticules give absolutely stellar edges with oil instead of water and some don’t. There is no way to say which will work great with oil and which won’t.
I’d like to caution those with glued stones especially vintage that the oil could help release the bond between the top and bottom stones so be careful handling them and walking around as they could seperate at the most inopportune time and of course it will be the yellow that suffers the most in the fall.....
 
I tried a few razors on my coti with baby oil. I am pretty convinced edges are a notch keener than running water or lather finished edges.
That's where I am right now...baby oil. I would say it's more than a notch for me. Easily the sharpest edges I've gotten to date.

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