Chipped blade edges vs rolled blade edges and skin irritation

[MapsGill]

I have a course beard, but I would guess this applies across the board for all beard types. That said, this is completely anecdotal.

I've been finding that blade edges that chip as they degrade cause less irritation than blade edges that roll. The type of steel, the steel's hardness, the edge angle, thickness, and any coating affects how the blade degrades.

Looking at the blades under magnification after using them I am finding that the more chipped blades start tugging before they start nicking and scraping. The rolled edges seem to cause more nicks and irritate my skin more -- I assume as a result of the rolled edges scraping my skin. It makes sense that the rolled edges nick more, because I'm using the angle the blade should be at, but the rolled portion is at a different angle and thus the roll nicks me or scrapes me.

I would guess the chipped edge blades also scrape my skin, but it seems less so far.

I'd like to see a hardness rating on blades to help choose blades. Maybe I'm getting too scientific about it though considering they're like 10 cents a blade.

Anyone else notice this to be true for them though?

 

[lasta]

If there are rolls or chips, just toss it.

Otherwise this is a good start:

Scanning Electron Microscope Blade Edge Images

I've been brushing up on my SEM skills at work over the last few day and decided to bring in some razor blades to practice with this morning. I ran 6 different Gillette blades at 150X magnification and thought some of you may be interested in these results. I have a ton of different blades and...

www.badgerandblade.com

Not definitive, but I'd assume higher carbon content has potential to be treated harder. Platinum/chrome coating is good to see, but I'm not sure if there is a relation between quantity and quality.

 

[Ron R]

I have a course beard, but I would guess this applies across the board for all beard types. That said, this is completely anecdotal.

I've been finding that blade edges that chip as they degrade cause less irritation than blade edges that roll. The type of steel, the steel's hardness, the edge angle, thickness, and any coating affects how the blade degrades.

Looking at the blades under magnification after using them I am finding that the more chipped blades start tugging before they start nicking and scraping. The rolled edges seem to cause more nicks and irritate my skin more -- I assume as a result of the rolled edges scraping my skin. It makes sense that the rolled edges nick more, because I'm using the angle the blade should be at, but the rolled portion is at a different angle and thus the roll nicks me or scrapes me.

I would guess the chipped edge blades also scrape my skin, but it seems less so far.

I'd like to see a hardness rating on blades to help choose blades. Maybe I'm getting too scientific about it though considering they're like 10 cents a blade.

Anyone else notice this to be true for them though?

It is rare to see a chipped DE blade but it is possible, rolled blade edge is going to happen because the blade is so thin at the edge of the blade. The only suggestion would be better pre-shave procedure to soften the tough whiskers more and use a blade that has been sputtered with platinum or iridium coatings on the edge, they use these rare elements to strengthen the edge or stiffen it more and they are all sharp blades now a days. Blades that feel tuggy should be tossed IMO.
Another alternative to DE blades would be SE that are designed better for course wire beard possibly because they are used mostly in the shallow approach which is a advantage possibly to some. The best SE blade for economy and longevity is the Gem Personna SS PTFE blade IMO, I have used the other AC artist club blades and even the Schick injectors blades and Gem blade just has better longevity and economy if that is what a person wants in a blade (Their steel is slightly better than other manufactured SE blades unless using Personna injector blades that have similar steel to the Gem blades IMO.)
This subject comes up every once in while and others might chime in on solutions to blade degradation.
Old archived photo showing why a SE blade might be a better choice of blade for certain beard types.

Have some great shaves!

 

[RayClem]

If you roll the edge, you should be able to straighten it using proper stropping technique. However, improper technique can cause the edge to roll.

A chipped edge can only be improved by honing. Some blades tend to microchip when the blade gets super sharp. Some hones tend to cause chipping more than others.

Get a decent USB microscope (minimum of 5 MP) and examine the edge. Resolution is more important than magnification.