The area about 1" from the shoulder will not take a bevel. The rest of the blade seems good to go. A noticable reflection can be seen when looking down at the edge. Have probably done thousands of laps and does not seem to improve. Using a 12u lapping film.
Cannot set the bevel on the shoulder
- Thread starter drathgeb
- Start date
This is very often caused by the spine tapering into the tang at that point and can be remedied by using a heel forward stroke.
Keeping the spine flat on the hone at all times use a heel forward stroke at an angle of about 45 degrees. Look if you see the heel touch the stone (or use a marker on the edge). Use some pressure and circles and X strokes and that heel should come in line with the rest of the blade.
Keeping the spine flat on the hone at all times use a heel forward stroke at an angle of about 45 degrees. Look if you see the heel touch the stone (or use a marker on the edge). Use some pressure and circles and X strokes and that heel should come in line with the rest of the blade.
You need to get lower in the grit to do the job faster. Use magic marker to see where the bevels do not make contact with the honing surface and then figure out what stroke to use to compensate for that. It is also possible you might need to fix the spine but without pics it is hard to say for sure.
Any pics. Like it has been said, the razor was likely honed with heel forward stroke and now the spine over that area has not worn down enough to allow contact. Two solutions hone with heel forward or muscle the spine over the heel with a DMT 325.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Even though Doc insists on wallowing amongst his mojo-beslimed rocks rather than getting with the post-stone-age and graduating to lapping film, he is correct in this instance, I believe.
No matter how you hone a razor, eventually it gets out of kilter in one way or another. In this case, the spine outward a bit from the shoulder has taken all the wear, but near the shoulder and at the shoulder itself, it is still at its original thickness. Likely there is also thickening of the blade at the very end of the heel, if there is a stabilizer involved. The temporary fix WOULD have been to simply continue to hone with the heel leading quite a bit. However, now it is probably best to fix the darn thing right. I would take the shoulder down and fair it into the shank for a considerable distance. Ideally, the shank would be thinner than the spine, so for the foreseeable future the hone could not bear on the shoulder or any honing induced step up to the shoulder at all, but instead would bear purely on the spine and edge, both of which would lie perfectly on the honing surface.
Before you do anything drastic, you probably should determine what the existing bevel angle is. When you are removing a considerable amount of steel from the blade, you want to end up with the bevel angle in the optimum zone. Generally that is between about 16 and 17.5 degrees. It is easy to wind up with too acute or too obtuse a bevel, and wonder why you aren't getting the sort of performance you expect from the razor.
This is of course conjecture, and pics would help. Closeups of the heel under a very bright light might clear up a lot of mystery.
Anyway, once you determine your course of action, put away the films and don't reach for the 1k bevel setter, either. It will take all day. Get thee hence to Harbor Freight, and get the el cheapo set of diamond plates, either the loose plate set or the 4 sided multi-hone. Don't use pressure, but keep it wet. Start with the coarse side, but be sure you are honing where and what you need to be honing, instead of making it worse, because these puppies are very fast, aggressive cutters. Then progress up through the finer diamond plates, then a 1k Norton or some 1k wet/dry paper tacked to your lapping plate with Loctite Spray Adhesive, then work up through your films. VERIFY at EACH STEP that the ENTIRE EDGE is absolutely ready to move up to the next step before even considering progressing. Failure to do that will doom your final result.
- Thread starter
- #6
The razor in question is from this thread:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/297820-A-gift-from-my-dad
Not sure if these pics will help. The area on the spine above the problem area seems to be getting wider in the area where it contacts the film
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/297820-A-gift-from-my-dad
Not sure if these pics will help. The area on the spine above the problem area seems to be getting wider in the area where it contacts the film
Send the Razor to Doc for proper disposal.
Yes you can. You have not yet.
Yes
The width of the hone wear being uneven is telltale of how it was honed. The blade was held at an angle to the stone. You see the results. Lay the blade on your stone and position it so the wear and the heel are both on the stone. This is close to the position it was honed in. You can choose to hone THIS blade in this manner.
(yes I know you use films I am not editing)
Phil
Heel first and end with the tow in X pattern
Can you take close up pix, without glare, of the heel on both sides?
Many people have trouble setting the bevel on the shoulder. Try placing the film on a table, instead.
(Sorry.)
(Sorry.)
