Can You Accept a Flawed Razor?

[5whiskey]

We don't discuss this much. Obviously some razors have weird geometry issues, most which can be fixed. Some razors smile, some frown, and both can be salvageable depending on how much steel is left. Lots of guys willmcut a razor down that has a chip in the end. So I know there are a number of us willing to accept a less-than-perfect razor. That said, most people here at least alter out the flaw as best as possible.

I have am very old razor I picked up off ebay a year or so ago. I paid less than $100 for it (actually more like half that), so I don't think anyone will argue I got gyped. But I want to shave with it. Try as I may, the shaves are... well not that good. I can get it to take an edge. It will scrape hair (not an incorrect description there) off my face without ritual bloodletting. If I use care, it's not even terribly harsh. But it is harsh, and the shave is right around socially acceptable (military version) and that's about it. After study with the loupe, I have found there are sections on the blade that almost look like pitting on the bevel. I mark them, hone them out, and find that there are pitted sections that weren't there before aftermarket hone. Not much I cam do with that, I chalk it up to alloy/heat treat/tempering.

But it will remain, and I will shave with it on occasion. It's a 200 year old razor by my guess (quite possibly older, but I doubt by much). I could get aggressive with honing and remove more metal to see if I run into good steel, but I'm not willing to do that with a razor this age. I didn't even want to clean it up any when I got it, but I did carefully remove the blade from scales and clean some pretty nasty rust at the pivot pin, along with a few spots elsewhere. Other than that it is as I received it.

So, do you abide flawed razors? None at all? Maybe a couple of very old ones? Or all the time? A picture of the offender:

 

[Christian1212]

Depends on the vendor and price. If the vendor somewhat knows about straights and says it is a good straight I expect it to take an edge. Would return said razor if it had problems or a bad warp that was not mentioned.

If the vendor admits to not knowing much about razors or it is obvious they don't know - then it is a gamble I accept. Not sure on how I would handle new razors from Dovo or thiers issard. I will also add though I don't think returns should be accepted if you add a ton of wear to said item (example being you think it has a warp or bad steel. I think returning right away would be the best action. I feel like returning a razor you removed a bunch of steel from is like returning a steak to the kitchen after eating half of it).

Really depends on how the razor is advertised though.

 

[silverlifter]

If I'm attracted to the razor, for whatever reason, then I'm generally fine with cosmetic flaws as ultimately it is the shave that matters.

But there are too many razors out there to settle with something that requires major surgery. I'll leave those for the people for whom restoration is part of the hobby. For me, I just enjoy honing and shaving.

 

[Kyle89]

If it's cheap then I don't really care. If new, I'll be a little peeved but if it's a T.I. I don't mind working through a rough grind. I love those razors.

 

[Dtownvino]

I accept many flawed razors, because I'm flawed... if it shaves great, I'll take the character!

 

[Herrenberg]

A flawed razor? Sure. Flawed razors make up a respectable portion of my assortment.

A flawed shave? Never!!!

 

[5whiskey]

To be clear I'm not talking about the purchase of a new razor. Absolutely I may would cause a ruckus if I paid a lot of money for something that has major issues.

I'm talking about vintage razors, which is pretty much an "as is" proposition. For me, anything run of the mill has to be in great shape capable of giving a fantastic shave. Think early 20th century Gencos or Torreys. If it can't give a fantastic shave, it goes out of rotation and probably to scrap.

I'm talking about razors with significant historical significance or rarity. Think along the lines of a razor circa 1880s (or my particular razor 1820s) or so with natural material scales in decent shape, but the blade has some issues that require significant metal removal. Do you leave it original and endure the shaves (if it even can shave), make it right but significantly alter the originality, or do you just try and sell it and let the next guy decide?

 

[5whiskey]

And to add, I'm still thrilled with the razor in my OP. I'm really just posing the question for discussion. What CAN you live with.

 

[TSENG]

I admit that the old razors have some flaws, a few have spine or edges that are not straight,
I will correct the spines slightly, but not excessively, the edges will be evenly sharp.

 

[Gamma]

I evaluate things on a case by case basis.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

If you are buying a razor of the vintage you posted, you buy as is, warts and all.

That razor can easily be made to shave. As posted it needs heel correction to get the heel on the stone, the toe 1/3 of the razor is not honed, has not touched the stone, the middle of the razor has a lot of chipping, not sitting fully on the stone due to honing on the stabilizer.

In short, the bevel is not fully set.

First, I would correct/reshape the heel to move the corner well away from the small stabilizer. It is being honed on the stabilizer and the heel is not touching the stone. Likely the cause of the massive spine wear and curved toe.

Then set the bevel fully on a 1k, use a rolling X stroke to hone from heel to the tip of the toe.

The razor can be made to shave well, daily driver, probably not. All my razors are shave ready.

Love the razor and the scales.

 

[Gamma]

After study with the loupe, I have found there are sections on the blade that almost look like pitting on the bevel. I mark them, hone them out, and find that there are pitted sections that weren't there before aftermarket hone. Not much I cam do with that, I chalk it up to alloy/heat treat/tempering.

If what you see really is pitting, those defects can be caused by bad storage conditions. Might be impurities in the steel also.
Probably not Ht&T though.
Whatever the case, if the pitting is through and through then a proper bevel set might be out of the question. If you are seeing pits come and go, there are, probably, a lot of micropits you can't see without a lot of magnification.
Many times it is possible to hone past those pits to find good steel.
Once in a while the pitting is terminal.

Me, I'd hone till the pits were gone and if I got significantly below 5/8" in width with no luck I'd toss the blade.

 

[5whiskey]

@Gamma yeah thats kinda what Ive been fighting. It's also why I haven't gotten around to correcting the toe. As it is, I'm not gonna toss it. The thing is 200 years old and I can (mostly) shave with it. Plus the scales are awesome. I don't know what they are... I think maybe whale bone. That's what I'm talking about "living with it." I've already honed enough that I'm gonna have to take some off the spine to maintain a decent bevel angle if I go much further. I guess I can go a little more to see if I run into good steel, but I'm not much over 5/8 now as it is.

 

[Gamma]

@5whiskey Yeah, the scales are cool. Me, I don't love stub tails and not much of a cast steel fan either. But once in a while I do get attached to old things just because they're old. So I understand the quandary.
I would probably throw a good effort at it. I might grind back that heel a bit first. I might leave the toe alone at least until things sort out. It's not uncommon for those older blades to not take a 'killer edge' so expectations need to be on par with the steel's capabilities.

 

[Frank Shaves]

For a 200-year-old stub tail, the razor looks to be in pretty good condition. I am not seeing much oxidation at the bevel.

Have you measured the bevel angle?