i have a clements straight razor which is or was in pristine condition. it has clements on one side , made entirely in sheffield on the other side and highly magnetized high speed across the front of the edge. i even have the original cardboard? 2 piece sheath. here is where my smarts left me! i was in the process of moving and put it in my jumpsuit front pocket,without it being in its sheath, yes i know, very irresponsible!! before i realized my mistake my pocket was full of stuff. change,nuts,bolts, etc. the aftermath made me just plain disappointed. a quarter had gotten lodged between the blade and frame and put a 1/4 inch crack into the full 13/16 inch blade about 3/8's of an inch from the end. so i put this question to you fine gentlemen of badger and blade, can it be fixed? i tig weld very well,yet know my limitations.IS THERE ANY HOPE FOR MAKING A WORTHY REPAIR? SHAMEFULLY SUBMITTED BY OGRE TOWMAN
can anyone tell me why i can be so smart,yet so stupid ocassionaly?!
- Thread starter ogre towman
- Start date
You can always lop the tip off.
But I need pictures to give you a better assessment. And even then, I'm going off pictures...
But I need pictures to give you a better assessment. And even then, I'm going off pictures...
im pretty sure you wont be able to weld it.
pics help
pics help
Photos would be nice but forget welding it, the steel is heat treated for toughness and strength. Welding temperatures would destroy the temper and most likely warp the blade.
However all may not me lost. If it’s a spike or square point (and I suspect it is) you may “carefully” re-grind the point and turn it into a round point which may eliminate the entire cracked area. The blade will still function as good as any other (or better, depending on your point of view) and look pretty darn good too.
But again, friction from grinding may generate enough heat to ruin the temper, so if you chose to do this, go slow and have a bowl of cold water to occasionally dip the blade to keep to cool. Go especially slow and careful when grinding the thin part at the edge, as opposed too the thicker part at the back. In fact it would be best to grind the back of the blade with a wheel and then the thin part by hand with a bench stone.
Hope this helps
However all may not me lost. If it’s a spike or square point (and I suspect it is) you may “carefully” re-grind the point and turn it into a round point which may eliminate the entire cracked area. The blade will still function as good as any other (or better, depending on your point of view) and look pretty darn good too.
But again, friction from grinding may generate enough heat to ruin the temper, so if you chose to do this, go slow and have a bowl of cold water to occasionally dip the blade to keep to cool. Go especially slow and careful when grinding the thin part at the edge, as opposed too the thicker part at the back. In fact it would be best to grind the back of the blade with a wheel and then the thin part by hand with a bench stone.
Hope this helps
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- Thread starter
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leighton,mdunn,and Cedrck- your inputs are much appreciated! i'm working on getting pictures posted. the holiday's have been very hectic and i am still gathering my wits. merry new year to you all david(ogre towman)
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