Aluminum is the least desired alloy for those in the search for quality, exotic and to some the rare unobtanium razors that are produced today. I’m in the group that desires a more significant alloy in its density & weight properties as I adhere to the theory that more weight is better. The old adage of “let the weight of the razor do the work for you” has been a constant for me since day 1. And certainly it works for a very good portion and I’d say the far greater majority in wet shavedom. However, Aluminum does offer advantages that are not to be ignored or thrown to the side. It’s lightweight, easier to maneuver, has excellent corrosion resistance that arguably, even more so apparent either than stainless & titanium as it nearly instantly forms a very thin layer of oxide to prevent further oxidation. It’s cheaper to acquire & machine for razor producers as it saves on tooling costs thus it becomes a much more economic value to the wet shaver as it’s exponentially much more affordable over nearly every other alloy used to produce a safety razor.
Nevertheless, I’m not here to write a report or dissertation on why aluminum should or should not be adapted over other alloys but, rather a short shave summary on the qualities of a well made & executed aluminum alloy razor that in theory & practice can give just as good a shave if not better than the other metal alloy produced shave tools. Personally, I don’t have a large selection of aluminum razors with only 3 in my possession with these two being front & center in this thread. The Aluminum Timeless & the Wolfman Aluminum Guerilla. Both made by perhaps the most well known razor makers in the artisan industry. Each are produced and finished with exacting tolerances and finishes that take a back seat to no one. The Timeless razor has been around for a bit longer as the Guerilla has just joined the fray just this year but, has made a significant impact not only in the name of the producer but, it has the pedigree in its overall craftsmanship & quality with the shaving chops to prove it. I decided this morning that I wanted to put these two against each other for my own fact finding exercise while also providing some insight for those that are interested in aluminum razors and their benefits. Plus, if you’re having a cup of coffee, the read might be an indulgence to getting the day started.
The Timeless Aluminum only comes in a stated gap of .45 & sb set up with no other plates offered as an option. The Aluminum Guerilla on the other hand offers an array of base plates in a multitude of gap sizes and sb/oc configurations to customize to ones heart and content. Additionally, the Guerilla offers a secondary handle for more value and diversified tastes. The Guerilla is fitted with a .69 sb base plate as it’s the lowest sized gap in my collection. I wanted to keep it as close to the Timeless size though the Guerilla plate does have a sizable gap advantage but, gap means nothing in the shave realm as you will later see as you read on further. Grab your favorite beverage or drink elixir and let’s get to this.
The Shave
I went with two (2) fresh Gillette Yellow 7 O’Clock Sharp Edge blades for the cutting duties and pulled out one of my most favorite scented shave soaps ever created, B&M’s Seville in Reserve. Wonderfully spicy yet clean and refreshing with the performance to back it up. The splash is a must as it offers excellent healing & conditioning properties with just enough of the scent profile to entice and deliver one’s nose into a scentgasm. Good stuff. Then the coup de gras and final scent crescendo, Tom Ford Noir. It needs no explanation. If you know, you know. Built a nice and luscious lather, wetted my face for a little bit more hydration and went to work. I went with a 3 pass affair (WTG, ATG, XTG) as I was going to take my sweet old time and wanted nothing to do with buffing, touch ups or pick up finishes of any kind. Good skin stretching and facial contortions were of the utmost importance that was going to lead to a drop the mic & walk off the stage shave performance a la Sam Kinison (RIP) during his stand up comedy days, minus the visceral screaming and high pitched nuances. Both razors were dealing with nearly 4 days of whisker growth. It was going to be a challenge, for both.
Pass #1 WTG. My facial & neck whisker growth are pretty much identical on both sides so I just gave the Timeless the left side & the Guerilla the right side with no swaps on either of the passes. Started with the Guerilla .69 sb at the side burns mid ear. A very smooth downward stroke as I immediately adjusted pressure with a bit more firmness on the skin to compensate for the thicker growth. The Guerilla proceeded to remove whiskers with a very nice buttery smoothness and action that felt super comfortable while producing a nice audible effect. Movement towards the chin and over the curve was effortless transitioning down the neck and one side of Sir Adam. Blade feel is very minimal yet the whiskers are being reduced to skin level quite nicely. Again, balancing pressure is key as the lighter weight tells one to add a bit more of it without going overboard. Finished the right side and went to the left with the Timeless. Started at the same spot as the Guerilla just on the left side. First stroke and it was apparent that the Timeless has a bit more blade feel to offer while still offering just as buttery smooth a feel as the Guerilla. I still needed to add about an equal amount of pressure but, I had to slightly back off around the curve on the chin to compensate for the extra blade feel and avoid a potential mishap. Continued on down to Sir Adam and the right side of the neck excellent cutting feel that had the whiskers down to skin level just as easily as the Guerilla. Pressure is key and I’ll keep mentioning this throughout the shave. It’s paramount and extremely important to take that aspect into consideration because of the lighter weighted razors. First pass done with a nice cold water rinse and feel. Both sides look and feel identical on this 1st pass without a single mishap or issue. Hair was reduced equally on both sides and onto the next pass.
Pass #2 ATG. I started from the bottom of my neck, just below the Adam’s Apple and work upwards with just vertical strokes. The whiskers around the Apple and neck grow nearly sideways for me so, an ATG pass on the neck is practically an XTG pass with the face being the more traditional ATG format as the hairs grow downward. Decided to start with the Timeless on its side just because. I applied a bit of pressure, not over the top but, still firm. My off hand was there to provide some really good stretching to get each whisker smoothly but, effectively with authority. A really good pass that was evident especially around the jawline with that extra bit of blade feel that made short work of the whiskers. I also feel that the Timeless Aluminum .45 feels more neutral in shave angle not exhibiting a preference for either riding the cap or leaning towards the safety bar. It felt very natural and intuitive during this excellent ATG pass. I went to the Guerilla and started at the same spot on its side of the program. Equal amount of pressure that was firm and deliberate with the same skin stretching action. Here I adjusted the Guerilla a bit more towards the top cap and rode it slightly just off of it. I tinkered with the ATG pass with the Guerilla on the first 2-3 strokes adjusting the angle for optimum cutting action. I’ll say that towards the bar, there was very little cutting action and neutral was better but, riding off the cap was smoother and much more effective for my tastes. The blade feel was and is slightly less against the Timeless but, with some nice stretching the Guerilla really gave a nice and smooth cutting action though not as audible as the Timeless. Nevertheless, it cleared the whiskers beautifully without a single incident. Both sides were done and went with another cold water rinse and face feel. It’s unbelievable how close these 2 razor combatants are at this stage. Honestly, I could’ve stopped right there as the face was practically BBS and the neck stood at an awesome DFS feel that was close but, not quite to BBS level. The XTG pass will clear the spots around the neck and take some of if any stragglers were left behind on the face. Both razors were inherently smooth and easy on the face in this pass but, I perceived to get a slightly smoother feel with the Timeless over the Guerilla. Very subtle but, perceptible to me. Onto shave pass 3 and the final pass.
Pass #3 XTG. This didn’t take too long at all and I went with the Guerilla to start it off on its side. I go east to west and vice/versa for this pass, ear to nose to complete. The Guerilla hit the whiskers with ease and comfort. Riding just off the cap made short work of the whiskers on the neck and around Sir Adam. No pulling or tugging with skin stretching thrown in to get every last hair that tried to make a stand. I felt a couple of whiskers being removed upon stretching a bit of the jawline & chin until I heard nothing more. A constant bit of pressure was again applied without going over the top. This razor moves easily and briskly over the skin with very little blade feel yet cuts with assurance that whiskers are being removed with little to no disturbance of feel on the skin. Switched out to the Timeless with its side and went to work. I hate repeating myself but, again there is just an excellent ability for this razor to give feedback on feel and audible presence that tells you exactly what’s going on between tool and skin. They both do to be quite honest but, the Timeless here for me offers that tiny bit more of blade feel that facilitates me over the course of a shave. The audible effect combined with the feel is an invaluable asset to ones technique and to making on the fly adjustments as the shave progresses. As is and was to be expected, both sides were simply flawless. No irritation, not a single weeper or nics. No disturbance of the skin on either the face or neck. Alum pass was free of any semblance of heat or discomfort. The after shave splash just gave the slightest of a bracing effect and tightening of the pores while leaving the skin slightly hydrated and conditioned. The perfect finish to a perfect shave from two Aluminum bodied razors.
Conclusion & Analysis
A brilliant shave, plain and simple. Both performed exactly as I expected them to perform. Easy, smooth and very comfortable without putting a whole lot of effort, thought or skill into the exercise. They are both engineered and produced to exacting specifications that will deliver to many wonderful shaves. In terms of preference though, there always has to be a victor/winner. Closeness of shave can’t be answered as of this shave (about 9am today) since the end results were identical. Yet, I will admit that they both achieved that result via a different feel about them. The Timeless felt more neutral & balanced and a bit more intuitive on shave angle & feel. It was just by the smallest of margins to keep it in the optimal cutting zone in my hands over the Guerilla. Balance and feel on hand with the two are nearly imperceptible as they are very close to each other in weight and dimensions from top to bottom. In every other aspect of maneuverability and execution of said aspect they are equal. They rinse exceptionally well and keep the whiskers and suds away from the area being shaved quite effectively. Blade rigidity and support are very good but, the Timeless offers just a bit more contact area and support for the blade while providing a bit more curvature to the blade over its counterpart. Neither one exhibited any deflection nor blade flex during the shave but, the Timeless inspired a bit more confidence in that regard. Finish is a no brainer win for the Guerilla. That matte black anodizing is nearly perfect throughout the whole razor that allows the razor to feel like it’s rolling over the skin on bearings. Both handles are a wash as they both provide plenty of grip and tactile feel. I prefer the Guerilla handle over the Timeless one as it feels more natural in my hands. The Guerilla also offers a thinner head profile over the Timeless and that should be a plus for those that do work in tighter spots, more specifically under the schnoze.
The Aluminum Timeless .45 felt like a better overall shaver to the .69 Aluminum Guerilla in my shave experience and we are splitting hairs here as it was that close. I’m writing this here now and it’s nearly 4:30pm eastern time and I still can’t tell the difference on either side of both face & neck. Perhaps in a few more hours some hair growth will reveal itself soon enough and I’ll update it here when that occurs. Overall the Timeless edges out the Guerilla by a smidge to my shave standards. I’ll definitely give these two a go in a day or so but, I’ll fit the Guerilla with the .84 base plate and see how it fairs. I’m almost certain that it will forge ahead of the Timeless .45 just on blade feel alone and it should outclass it in performance in that regard.
Stay tuned for round #2……
Nevertheless, I’m not here to write a report or dissertation on why aluminum should or should not be adapted over other alloys but, rather a short shave summary on the qualities of a well made & executed aluminum alloy razor that in theory & practice can give just as good a shave if not better than the other metal alloy produced shave tools. Personally, I don’t have a large selection of aluminum razors with only 3 in my possession with these two being front & center in this thread. The Aluminum Timeless & the Wolfman Aluminum Guerilla. Both made by perhaps the most well known razor makers in the artisan industry. Each are produced and finished with exacting tolerances and finishes that take a back seat to no one. The Timeless razor has been around for a bit longer as the Guerilla has just joined the fray just this year but, has made a significant impact not only in the name of the producer but, it has the pedigree in its overall craftsmanship & quality with the shaving chops to prove it. I decided this morning that I wanted to put these two against each other for my own fact finding exercise while also providing some insight for those that are interested in aluminum razors and their benefits. Plus, if you’re having a cup of coffee, the read might be an indulgence to getting the day started.
The Timeless Aluminum only comes in a stated gap of .45 & sb set up with no other plates offered as an option. The Aluminum Guerilla on the other hand offers an array of base plates in a multitude of gap sizes and sb/oc configurations to customize to ones heart and content. Additionally, the Guerilla offers a secondary handle for more value and diversified tastes. The Guerilla is fitted with a .69 sb base plate as it’s the lowest sized gap in my collection. I wanted to keep it as close to the Timeless size though the Guerilla plate does have a sizable gap advantage but, gap means nothing in the shave realm as you will later see as you read on further. Grab your favorite beverage or drink elixir and let’s get to this.
The Shave
I went with two (2) fresh Gillette Yellow 7 O’Clock Sharp Edge blades for the cutting duties and pulled out one of my most favorite scented shave soaps ever created, B&M’s Seville in Reserve. Wonderfully spicy yet clean and refreshing with the performance to back it up. The splash is a must as it offers excellent healing & conditioning properties with just enough of the scent profile to entice and deliver one’s nose into a scentgasm. Good stuff. Then the coup de gras and final scent crescendo, Tom Ford Noir. It needs no explanation. If you know, you know. Built a nice and luscious lather, wetted my face for a little bit more hydration and went to work. I went with a 3 pass affair (WTG, ATG, XTG) as I was going to take my sweet old time and wanted nothing to do with buffing, touch ups or pick up finishes of any kind. Good skin stretching and facial contortions were of the utmost importance that was going to lead to a drop the mic & walk off the stage shave performance a la Sam Kinison (RIP) during his stand up comedy days, minus the visceral screaming and high pitched nuances. Both razors were dealing with nearly 4 days of whisker growth. It was going to be a challenge, for both.
Pass #1 WTG. My facial & neck whisker growth are pretty much identical on both sides so I just gave the Timeless the left side & the Guerilla the right side with no swaps on either of the passes. Started with the Guerilla .69 sb at the side burns mid ear. A very smooth downward stroke as I immediately adjusted pressure with a bit more firmness on the skin to compensate for the thicker growth. The Guerilla proceeded to remove whiskers with a very nice buttery smoothness and action that felt super comfortable while producing a nice audible effect. Movement towards the chin and over the curve was effortless transitioning down the neck and one side of Sir Adam. Blade feel is very minimal yet the whiskers are being reduced to skin level quite nicely. Again, balancing pressure is key as the lighter weight tells one to add a bit more of it without going overboard. Finished the right side and went to the left with the Timeless. Started at the same spot as the Guerilla just on the left side. First stroke and it was apparent that the Timeless has a bit more blade feel to offer while still offering just as buttery smooth a feel as the Guerilla. I still needed to add about an equal amount of pressure but, I had to slightly back off around the curve on the chin to compensate for the extra blade feel and avoid a potential mishap. Continued on down to Sir Adam and the right side of the neck excellent cutting feel that had the whiskers down to skin level just as easily as the Guerilla. Pressure is key and I’ll keep mentioning this throughout the shave. It’s paramount and extremely important to take that aspect into consideration because of the lighter weighted razors. First pass done with a nice cold water rinse and feel. Both sides look and feel identical on this 1st pass without a single mishap or issue. Hair was reduced equally on both sides and onto the next pass.
Pass #2 ATG. I started from the bottom of my neck, just below the Adam’s Apple and work upwards with just vertical strokes. The whiskers around the Apple and neck grow nearly sideways for me so, an ATG pass on the neck is practically an XTG pass with the face being the more traditional ATG format as the hairs grow downward. Decided to start with the Timeless on its side just because. I applied a bit of pressure, not over the top but, still firm. My off hand was there to provide some really good stretching to get each whisker smoothly but, effectively with authority. A really good pass that was evident especially around the jawline with that extra bit of blade feel that made short work of the whiskers. I also feel that the Timeless Aluminum .45 feels more neutral in shave angle not exhibiting a preference for either riding the cap or leaning towards the safety bar. It felt very natural and intuitive during this excellent ATG pass. I went to the Guerilla and started at the same spot on its side of the program. Equal amount of pressure that was firm and deliberate with the same skin stretching action. Here I adjusted the Guerilla a bit more towards the top cap and rode it slightly just off of it. I tinkered with the ATG pass with the Guerilla on the first 2-3 strokes adjusting the angle for optimum cutting action. I’ll say that towards the bar, there was very little cutting action and neutral was better but, riding off the cap was smoother and much more effective for my tastes. The blade feel was and is slightly less against the Timeless but, with some nice stretching the Guerilla really gave a nice and smooth cutting action though not as audible as the Timeless. Nevertheless, it cleared the whiskers beautifully without a single incident. Both sides were done and went with another cold water rinse and face feel. It’s unbelievable how close these 2 razor combatants are at this stage. Honestly, I could’ve stopped right there as the face was practically BBS and the neck stood at an awesome DFS feel that was close but, not quite to BBS level. The XTG pass will clear the spots around the neck and take some of if any stragglers were left behind on the face. Both razors were inherently smooth and easy on the face in this pass but, I perceived to get a slightly smoother feel with the Timeless over the Guerilla. Very subtle but, perceptible to me. Onto shave pass 3 and the final pass.
Pass #3 XTG. This didn’t take too long at all and I went with the Guerilla to start it off on its side. I go east to west and vice/versa for this pass, ear to nose to complete. The Guerilla hit the whiskers with ease and comfort. Riding just off the cap made short work of the whiskers on the neck and around Sir Adam. No pulling or tugging with skin stretching thrown in to get every last hair that tried to make a stand. I felt a couple of whiskers being removed upon stretching a bit of the jawline & chin until I heard nothing more. A constant bit of pressure was again applied without going over the top. This razor moves easily and briskly over the skin with very little blade feel yet cuts with assurance that whiskers are being removed with little to no disturbance of feel on the skin. Switched out to the Timeless with its side and went to work. I hate repeating myself but, again there is just an excellent ability for this razor to give feedback on feel and audible presence that tells you exactly what’s going on between tool and skin. They both do to be quite honest but, the Timeless here for me offers that tiny bit more of blade feel that facilitates me over the course of a shave. The audible effect combined with the feel is an invaluable asset to ones technique and to making on the fly adjustments as the shave progresses. As is and was to be expected, both sides were simply flawless. No irritation, not a single weeper or nics. No disturbance of the skin on either the face or neck. Alum pass was free of any semblance of heat or discomfort. The after shave splash just gave the slightest of a bracing effect and tightening of the pores while leaving the skin slightly hydrated and conditioned. The perfect finish to a perfect shave from two Aluminum bodied razors.
Conclusion & Analysis
A brilliant shave, plain and simple. Both performed exactly as I expected them to perform. Easy, smooth and very comfortable without putting a whole lot of effort, thought or skill into the exercise. They are both engineered and produced to exacting specifications that will deliver to many wonderful shaves. In terms of preference though, there always has to be a victor/winner. Closeness of shave can’t be answered as of this shave (about 9am today) since the end results were identical. Yet, I will admit that they both achieved that result via a different feel about them. The Timeless felt more neutral & balanced and a bit more intuitive on shave angle & feel. It was just by the smallest of margins to keep it in the optimal cutting zone in my hands over the Guerilla. Balance and feel on hand with the two are nearly imperceptible as they are very close to each other in weight and dimensions from top to bottom. In every other aspect of maneuverability and execution of said aspect they are equal. They rinse exceptionally well and keep the whiskers and suds away from the area being shaved quite effectively. Blade rigidity and support are very good but, the Timeless offers just a bit more contact area and support for the blade while providing a bit more curvature to the blade over its counterpart. Neither one exhibited any deflection nor blade flex during the shave but, the Timeless inspired a bit more confidence in that regard. Finish is a no brainer win for the Guerilla. That matte black anodizing is nearly perfect throughout the whole razor that allows the razor to feel like it’s rolling over the skin on bearings. Both handles are a wash as they both provide plenty of grip and tactile feel. I prefer the Guerilla handle over the Timeless one as it feels more natural in my hands. The Guerilla also offers a thinner head profile over the Timeless and that should be a plus for those that do work in tighter spots, more specifically under the schnoze.
The Aluminum Timeless .45 felt like a better overall shaver to the .69 Aluminum Guerilla in my shave experience and we are splitting hairs here as it was that close. I’m writing this here now and it’s nearly 4:30pm eastern time and I still can’t tell the difference on either side of both face & neck. Perhaps in a few more hours some hair growth will reveal itself soon enough and I’ll update it here when that occurs. Overall the Timeless edges out the Guerilla by a smidge to my shave standards. I’ll definitely give these two a go in a day or so but, I’ll fit the Guerilla with the .84 base plate and see how it fairs. I’m almost certain that it will forge ahead of the Timeless .45 just on blade feel alone and it should outclass it in performance in that regard.
Stay tuned for round #2……
