Boar hair - is it all the same or does it vary in quality?

[les24preludes]

Badger hair is denoted by well accepted definitions, but boar hair seems to have no such definitions. Semogue has a 70% to 90% tops definition, but that's for the length of the hair not the hair itself. Some brush makers use "premium" or some such word as in Omega 011842 or Semogue SOC but it's all pretty undefined. I'm also not clear whether all boar hair splits the same or if that varies.

So...
1. Does boar hair differ, and if so how?
2. How can you tell the quality of the hair you're getting?
3. What are some examples of "superior" hair?

 

[Clay S]

I generally rely on comparisons from other B&B members on different models and makes. There is variance though even between the same make and model from my experience.

Some cheap boars use bristles cut to length after the knot is formed, they will mostly never split. Bleached and/or dyed bristles seem to start splitting quicker, some often start after first use with noticeable splitting.

Omega/Zenith/Semogue seems to be highest to least amount of backbone IME, but this varies greatly by loft height, knot diameter, and knot density.

 

[shave/brush]

I'm no expert on this but from what information I have read, brush makers can get the boar hair from different parts of the boar which varies in softness and other characteristics. Some of the high end brushes use only high quality hair that is softer and breaks in sooner. One example of this would be the B&B Omega brushes that are sold thru WCS.
They use a soft blond hair.

 

[BigJ]

This is confusing!

As far as I can tell, grading schemes depend on the manufacturer with no generally accepted classification.

 

[bluesman 7]

There is some more info and conjecture here; Semoque/Omega, different pigs or what.

 

[Clay S]

Glad to read in another post that you have both a Zenith and Omega coming to try as well as the Semogue that you have. Once they break in, you'll have a good idea of the differences by manufacturer, though loft/diameter and density still play into differences.

Also, the length of time that you soak the boars can change how floppy they are dramatically.

 

[les24preludes]

There is some more info and conjecture here; Semoque/Omega, different pigs or what.

That's a very good thread and has a lot of information.

 

[Timeclo]

For me the grade of boars go like this: Zenith > Semogue > Omega.

However, this doesn't mean that Zenith is the best and Omega is the worst. It's just in terms of softer/lighter quality of boar bristle.

Zenith has the softest, broken in like boar bristles. They also retain the most water and eat up the most lather in my case.

Semogue has the medium balance. Soft enough but also has enough backbone and scrub to enjoy your shaves.

Omega has the darkest bristles and the ones with most backbone/scrub. However, once you break it in, Omegas turn into wonderful brushes as well.

But overall, I love all boars so it's a good time to be alive

P.S. except for VDH boars. they're scritchy shedders..

 

[ajduplessis]

I have 2 Omega 10049 brushes and a 10098. The hairs on all 3 is nice and blond, they split very well and is extremely soft. The backbone and bristle thickness vary between these, even the 49’s where one has very thin bristles and less backbone compared to the other. They all perform fantastic, easily creating and releasing lather, blooms well, hold their shape and don’t shed.

The backbone on the 98 is the best out of these 27mm knot.

 

[albsat]

I think it depend on the batch. My 2 Proraso boar brushes bought in different periods where not the same.

I divide boar brushes based on backbone. I kept two that cover the whole backbone spectrum for my liking.

 

[zoidberg]

Zenith has the softest, broken in like boar bristles. They also retain the most water and eat up the most lather in my case.

A good comparison but one thing is missing, I presume the info that the Zenith you are referring to is they are bleached.

Zenith have two grades of boar, bleached and unbleached. The unbleached are very stiff and scrubby, whilst the bleached one is a soft fluffy cloud. The unbleached ones are my favourite, they don't eat lather and have superb face feel.

The downside is no one seems to stock them now.

 

[Timeclo]

A good comparison but one thing is missing, I presume the info that the Zenith you are referring to is they are bleached.

Zenith have two grades of boar, bleached and unbleached. The unbleached are very stiff and scrubby, whilst the bleached one is a soft fluffy cloud. The unbleached ones are my favourite, they don't eat lather and have superb face feel.

The downside is no one seems to stock them now.

Hmmmm. I didn't know Zenith carry both. I just thought all the knots were the same. In my case, all my Zenith seems to be bleached so they retain a ton of water. A little too soft for my taste but they still work wonderfully.

 

[mawashi]

Badger hair is denoted by well accepted definitions, but boar hair seems to have no such definitions. Semogue has a 70% to 90% tops definition, but that's for the length of the hair not the hair itself. Some brush makers use "premium" or some such word as in Omega 011842 or Semogue SOC but it's all pretty undefined. I'm also not clear whether all boar hair splits the same or if that varies.

So...
1. Does boar hair differ, and if so how?
2. How can you tell the quality of the hair you're getting?
3. What are some examples of "superior" hair?

I can only speak about my experiences with Omegas n Semogue 1800... YMMV.

The semogue uses softer, finer hairs than an omega but most importantly the knots are different. Semogues are less dense and fan like while an omega is denser has a bulb knot.

An omega breaks in faster than an semogue simply cos you can apply more pressure on the tips as you lather while a semogue is so mop like that its like tying to apply pressure on the tip of a wet noodle.

Semogues seem to use finer hairs vs Omegas but I still prefer my Omegas especially the wooden handle 11137 brush.

Happy shaves,

Mawashi

 

[les24preludes]

I still prefer my Omegas especially the wooden handle 11137 brush.

Do you find that the 11137 is around the "perfect size" for a boar? I have a 49 which is big but nice and a Semogue 1305 which has only a 22/55 knot but splays out to a large size at the top. I'm thinking that maybe 24/54 is the sweet spot for boars - not too huge and around the right amount of splay. Omega do several models in 24/54 or 24/55 -

10081, 11126, 80280, 81230, 10005, 11137, 11150 and probably more again from their huge range

 

[naughtilus]

Biggest difference how a boar brush behaves is its knot geometry, loft, density and thickness. This is where people feel biggest difference between how a say Semogue vs an Omega works. The variation in hair quality and if its treated more or less (they all are) is less noticeable. Some bristles may take longer to split than others, but unless they are trimmed, they will all eventually split.

I have a cheapo Vulfix boar brush with all bristles trimmed and it's horrible when dry, but once you soak it and lather up, it's comfy like a nice pure badger knot. The thick shafts are scrubby, but not prickly. If you like to face lather and swirl, scrubby is good on mature gents faces. Too soft means the brush tips simply slide and skate over the pasty lather film on your skin and don't mix it well with water, you need different technique for it. For a younger skin and softer stubble I see how softer brushes would be kinder, as well as avoid potential brush burn from coarser bristles.

 

[HereticHermit]

Some bristles may take longer to split than others, but unless they are trimmed, they will all eventually split.

Does the trimmed bristle never split at all? I thought the mild abbreviation will eventually wear out the cut end and cause a split. It might take months but it should happen.

 

[les24preludes]

Does the trimmed bristle never split at all? I thought the mild abbreviation will eventually wear out the cut end and cause a split. It might take months but it should happen.

I was wondering that. What I'm finding is that the outer hairs split first, so the middle hairs are more robust. This results in a kind of "pointy" feel in the middle on some brushes which doesn't feel very even on the face. Hopefully this goes away eventually. I have thought of trimming the middle hairs but have restrained myself so far.

 

[naughtilus]

Does the trimmed bristle never split at all? I thought the mild abbreviation will eventually wear out the cut end and cause a split. It might take months but it should happen.

Some may split but generally it doesn't happen.

 

[mawashi]

Do you find that the 11137 is around the "perfect size" for a boar? I have a 49 which is big but nice and a Semogue 1305 which has only a 22/55 knot but splays out to a large size at the top. I'm thinking that maybe 24/54 is the sweet spot for boars - not too huge and around the right amount of splay. Omega do several models in 24/54 or 24/55 -

10081, 11126, 80280, 81230, 10005, 11137, 11150 and probably more again from their huge range

I personally love the 11137 kind of brushes and I'll be happy with a 11126 or similar. I too had a 49 and found it huge.

Of the Omegas brushes I really prefer the wood handles than plastic so I'll gladly get a 11126, 10005 or 11137 basically I love the 10000 series.

Biggest difference how a boar brush behaves is its knot geometry, loft, density and thickness. This is where people feel biggest difference between how a say Semogue vs an Omega works. The variation in hair quality and if its treated more or less (they all are) is less noticeable. Some bristles may take longer to split than others, but unless they are trimmed, they will all eventually split.

I have a cheapo Vulfix boar brush with all bristles trimmed and it's horrible when dry, but once you soak it and lather up, it's comfy like a nice pure badger knot. The thick shafts are scrubby, but not prickly. If you like to face lather and swirl, scrubby is good on mature gents faces. Too soft means the brush tips simply slide and skate over the pasty lather film on your skin and don't mix it well with water, you need different technique for it. For a younger skin and softer stubble I see how softer brushes would be kinder, as well as avoid potential brush burn from coarser bristles.

I agree that the knit is vital but the hairs too can be different in terms of where its taken from and how they're treated.

I would really stay away from trim bristles and just find the correct size and knot. If you can get the right type of hairs in a brand you like that's great.

I'm an omega guy and I'll be happy with my 11137, 11126 or 10005.

Happy shaves,

Mawashi

 

[Clay S]

Does the trimmed bristle never split at all? I thought the mild abbreviation will eventually wear out the cut end and cause a split. It might take months but it should happen.

I've tried hot water, ice water, thermo-cycling, boiling water, bleach, hydrogen peroxide, hair dryers, scrubbing on towels, and ammonia on trimmed boar bristles over a 6 month period with no noticed split-ends. For some reason the glue gave out though.