Blade widths and such for new shavee

[Icedpyre]

I'm just looking at buying my first straight razor (I have no interest in replaceable blades). I'm a bit confused to the pros and cons behind going with a thicker or thinner blade. Logic tells me that thinner would be much better, although more prone to making facial sashimi. Does the added weight of a thicker blade make it easier to control?

Also, I don't understand yet what the scales are referring to, and what effect they would have on my shaving experience. Also, what is SRAD referring to?

As a chef I like to think that I have pretty decent knife use/honing skills, but would love some advice so I don't fillet my cheek. Lastly, as for honing stones (not strops), is there a specific grit that's required/recommended for honing? I have a 4000 grit stone which works beautifully for japanese steel blades, I'm not sure how this would work for a razor though.


help the nub plz.

 

[Icedpyre]

also, *** is a jimp? lol

 

[Sluggo]

Welcome...all your straight razor questions can be answered here:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=33718

 

[mparker762]

I'm just looking at buying my first straight razor (I have no interest in replaceable blades). I'm a bit confused to the pros and cons behind going with a thicker or thinner blade. Logic tells me that thinner would be much better, although more prone to making facial sashimi. Does the added weight of a thicker blade make it easier to control?

It's a preference thing. They're all thin at the cutting end.

Also, I don't understand yet what the scales are referring to, and what effect they would have on my shaving experience.

Those things that would be handles if it were a knife. You don't hold a razor by them, you hold the razor by the shank. The scales are there to protect the blade when not in use, and help you control the blade when it is in use.

Also, what is SRAD referring to?

Straight Razor Acquisition Disorder. It's what happens when you find yourself adopting every interesting razor you can afford off of ebay, and selling blood for that dubl duck wonderedge or livi takeda. fun times...

As a chef I like to think that I have pretty decent knife use/honing skills, but would love some advice so I don't fillet my cheek. Lastly, as for honing stones (not strops), is there a specific grit that's required/recommended for honing? I have a 4000 grit stone which works beautifully for japanese steel blades, I'm not sure how this would work for a razor though.

4k is suitable for setting the bevel, and you could probably shave off of it but you probably wouldn't enjoy it much, not every day anyway. With most synthetic japanese waterstones you'll want to go to at least 8k to shave with, and that's only if you're very good with the hone. Many of us go up to the 10k Naniwa Chosera or 30k Shapton, and some go up to 0.25 or 0.1 micron diamond abrasive on a leather strop. Some of us prefer natural stones like the Belgian yellow coticule or Japanese Nakayama. It just depends on your preferences.

Jimps are the grooves on the shank to help you keep your grip. Shaving lather can be slippery.

 

[Hawkeye5]

Your questions have been answered in the first two posts, but I'll add commentary!

4000 may be great for a kitchen knife. It will suck for a razor. I understand you have knife honing skills, but sharpening a razor is different from sharpening a knife and the keeness necessary in a razor is way beyond any knife, but also a true razor edge would be much too delicate for a working knife.

My personal experience is that a lighter razor requires more user input. Personal preference is everything in this game, however. You are just going to have to experiment in order to determine what your preference may be. I've settled on 13/16ths full hollow grinds as my favorites, but it took almost three years and countless razors to arrive at that conclusion. These are not the only razors I use, just my favorites.

To give an idea of what can be involved, when I receive an ebay razor the first thing I do is inspect the cutting edge for chips with a loupe. I then set the bevel on a 325 grit DMT checking before progressing to ensure all chips are removed. This is followed by 2000, 4000, 8000, and 16000 grit Shapton glass hones. I finish on a CrOx pasted paddle and then strop on linen and leather. There are as many preferences regarding hones and progressions as there are shavers, again personal preference determined through experimentation is the only standard.

Good Luck and happy shaving.

 

[huntmol]

Blade size and grind are all personal preference.
For a beginner, I would recommend a shave-ready 5/8. Half hollow if you can find one, but a full hollow is good too. Once you get your shaving technique down, perfect your stropping technique. Then you can worry about what hones to get, etc

 

[professorchaos]

It's a preference thing. They're all thin at the cutting end.




Those things that would be handles if it were a knife. You don't hold a razor by them, you hold the razor by the shank. The scales are there to protect the blade when not in use, and help you control the blade when it is in use.





Straight Razor Acquisition Disorder. It's what happens when you find yourself adopting every interesting razor you can afford off of ebay, and selling blood for that dubl duck wonderedge or livi takeda. fun times...




4k is suitable for setting the bevel, and you could probably shave off of it but you probably wouldn't enjoy it much, not every day anyway. With most synthetic japanese waterstones you'll want to go to at least 8k to shave with, and that's only if you're very good with the hone. Many of us go up to the 10k Naniwa Chosera or 30k Shapton, and some go up to 0.25 or 0.1 micron diamond abrasive on a leather strop. Some of us prefer natural stones like the Belgian yellow coticule or Japanese Nakayama. It just depends on your preferences.

Jimps are the grooves on the shank to help you keep your grip. Shaving lather can be slippery.

What he said.