best paint/finish for wood handle in rubberset restoration?

[neatokino]

This has probably been covered somewhere in the history of this forum, but I haven't been able to find an answer in my searches yet, so I'll put it out there.

I'm restoring a Rubberset 49-3, which has an unpainted wood handle. I'm trying to decide if I should just stain and finish (lacquer?) the handle or paint it and finish it. Painting would probably look nicer, as the old wood handle doesn't look great as is, and I wouldn't mind painting it red or green or some interesting color. Or am I underestimating how nice the wood can become with stain and varnish?

Any advice on paint to use and what to finish it with for gloss and waterproofing? I'm a newbie to wood finishing, so treat me as if I'm completely ignorant, please!!!!

Thanks. I can post a pic of the brush if it would help.

 

[shaverjoe]

Pics are always welcome!

My favorite wood finish is pure tung oil. The actual process is easy but it takes weeks to fully cure. I use this frequently with wood handles with good results. If this is a route you decide to take, make sure you are using pure tung oil, not a "tung oil finish." You can find polymerized pure tung oil which has undergone a process to aid in finishing time and this works well.

Initial coats should be applied as a ratio of pure tung oil (PTO) and lacquer thinner (LT). I start with a 3:1 ratio of LT/PTO and slowly reduce the ratio until I am applying only PTO. The LT helps the PTO penetrate the wood. PTO takes weeks (4-6) to fully cure depending on temperature and humidity. You can simply wipe the finish on to the handle, let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe away the excess. '

After this finish has completely cured, I will overlay it with a wax which is a mix of beeswax and mineral oil called George's Clubhouse Wax. It is food safe and non-toxic. I simply wipe a thin coat on as needed, let it sit a few minutes then wipe away. A single $5 jar of this wax would last lifetimes when used only for this process.

If you have any other questions regarding this finish, feel free to PM me. I'll help you in any way possible.

 

[neatokino]

Thanks, shaverjoe, I will look into that. Not sure if the wood on the handle is nice enough for that treatment, tho. Do you think it will be preferable to painting? Here are a couple of pics:

 

[shaverjoe]

Thanks for the pics! The handle is beautiful. I am never a fan of painting wood. I would always prefer to use a finish which enhances wood's natural beauty. There are certainly many other options and other members will chime in here with their own experiences.

If you are not in hurry to get the handle back, I will happily refinish it for you with the tung oil process described above at no cost as long as you cover shipping to and fro.

 

[neatokino]

Shaverjoe-- thanks first of all for your generous offer, which is greatly appreciated. I'd take you up on it, but I'm so determined to be 'DIY' on this project that I'd rather trouble you for advice (which I will do) rather than have you do the work for me.

I'm also very encouraged by your evaluation of the wood handle. I'm happy not to paint if if it's possible to work the wood into a beautiful finish, which, I'm noq assuming can be done. Will the tung oil make the wood any darker? I'd like to have it be as light as possible, to contrast with the black plastic upper part.

I have a question about the application of tung oil and the time involved. Can those multiple coats be applied in one session, after which the handle just has to sit and cure for 4-6 weeks, or are the various coats applied over the course of the curing time. If the coats can be applied in one session, then all I really have to learn to do is be patient... it's so difficult to wait 4 weeks plus for something you want to use right away!

Thanks again!

 

[shaverjoe]

I understand about the DIY part! This should be a fun project for you.

Yes, the tung oil will turn the wood darker. You can get an approximate estimation as to how dark by simply wetting the handle a bit. That should give you a fair estimate of how the tung oil would change the handle color.

Unfortunately, no, all the coats should not be applied at one time. I am sure there are other ways of using tung oil as a finish but I apply one thin coat about every 12-24 hours and I continue that process until the wood will no longer take oil. Again, the initial coats should be cut with LT in graduated ratios to help the tung oil penetrate deeply into the wood. I should also mention the tung oil will leave a very matte finish. If you are looking for a gloss finish, this will not be achieved with a hand applied tung oil finish.

I know it is hard to be patient, but if this is a brush for you or a loved one, the 6 or so weeks it will take to do this is well worth the wait in my opinion.

Again, there will be others here with more experience than me and other ideas. I would wait and see what others offer as alternative finishes. You could certainly use polyurethane and have the handle ready to go in about 24-48 hours. If this is a route you choose, you can apply poly of different levels of sheen from satin to high gloss.

Good luck and if you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[neatokino]

Thanks again, Joe! I will wait to see what others say, as I may prefer a gloss finish. In any case, I'm curious to hear opinions and very happy to know that I can get something good happening with the wood. It's a really nice handle, can accommodate a nice big knot, and may very well end up as my go-to brush, so I want to do this one right!

 

[tomcj2]

I recently tried a quick "crazy glue" finish on an old brush that I was not concerned about.
One coat of a gel gave me these results. There are a few sags in it but I am sure that a little sanding and another coat of a thin glue would fix it. It seems tough and unaffected by water. Perhaps another member can post about the expected life of this product, and the possibility of using it a clear coat over a pigmented paint.

 

[ras120]

That wood has a lot of character and will look beautiful with some stain. Here is one I did by dipping into Minwax stain followed by several coats of satin lacquer to protect it.

 

[shaverjoe]

That wood has a lot of character and will look beautiful with some stain. Here is one I did by dipping into Minwax stain followed by several coats of satin lacquer to protect it.

Looks gorgeous!

 

[ras120]

Looks gorgeous!

Thanks.

I've restored brushes that originally had painted handles, and the wood was not interesting at all -- which was probably done by design. Why use nice looking wood if you are going to paint it? The OP's brush was intended to be stained and would look really nice if it was restored in the same manner.

 

[GDCarrington]

Excellent job!

 

[neatokino]

First of all, Ras120, that is gorgeous!

So, back to my brush: I went to my local OSH yesterday, and they didn't have tung oil, but they did have Man of War Spar Varnish, which cooncatbob recommends in various posts I found here via search, so I took the plunge and bought some gloss Spar Varnish, thinned it out with mineral spirits, and gave the brush handle a first coat. Here's what it looks like after drying overnight:



I've already sanded it down with 2000 sandpaper and have applied a second thinned out coat. I'm figuring that after two thin coats, I'll apply a number of additional coats at full strength, sanding between each one. With any luck, I'll get a nice smooth glossy finish. I think the wood is looking really nice now, by the way.

I've got my fingers crossed, as I really want this to turn out great. If anyone has further suggestions, please feel free to tell me what I'm doing wrong or could be doing better. Meanwhile, I'm going to order a nice 26mm knot, probably TGN super badger fan (though I'm very much open to other suggestions) and be ready to set it as soon as the handle is ready.

I'm normally a smaller brush guy, but this promises to be a nice, big brush!

 

[tomcj2]

Where did you find real "Spar Varnish".

It is the only varnish that will withstand sunlight.

 

[ras120]

Looking good.

I think you're on the right track with this one.

 

[neatokino]

tomcj2-- the "Spar Varnish" I found is Man 'o War Spar Varnish, and they had it at OSH in cans and even in a spray can, which is what I got. You can also order it on Amazon.

 

[neatokino]

OK, it's all done now. 26mm TGN Finest XH Bulb knot set around 50mm loft. Many coats of Man 'o War Spar Varnish. I think it turned out great. Great looking, at least. Haven't used it yet, which is why there's no bloom on the knot yet. Thanks everyone for all your help!!!

 

[shaverjoe]

Looks awesome! Enjoy!

 

[ras120]

That's a real beauty. Very nice restore.

 

[Deltaboy]

Good Job Spar Varnish is great stuff for things that might get wet.